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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | 암장 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
미확인 년도 | |||||
V8 | Seam eliminate | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | ★ #8. Staircase | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V4 | ★★ High full traverse
Gain the top ledge through the overhang and traverse left around | 10m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
VB | ★ # 19. The Weakness | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1 | ★★ # 30 right of arch | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V6 - 9 | Pocket Project
Sit start low using flat crimp. Move through pockets to crimp and topout. | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | #9. Layback | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V0 | ★ # 20. Lovely arete | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V4 | ★★ Edge to pocket left | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
VB | #10. Round Arete | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V13/14 | Boogieman project
Start right hand on crimp low down on hanging block, left hand on flat rail on the backside of the block. Work your way left to eventually finish on big flat edge about 4m away. | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
VB | ★ # 21. Easy blocks | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6 | ★★ Edge to pocket | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
VB | # 11. The blocky lay back | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V3 | ★★ # 22. Sit-start & heel hook to jugs | 5m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
VM | ★ #1. The short Arete | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V3 | ★ Left arete
Sit start with underclings and go up the high and committing arete. | 5m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V10 - 12 | Left Hand Low Project
Low start to Left Hand Man V8/9. Start right on sharp edge and left low on side of boulder. Adds hard first move into start of Left Hand Man | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | ★ # 12. Horizontal breaks | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V7 | ★ Fred the cave monster
Start on right where the seams join, move left then up to small bulge. First boulder on the right side of the cave FA: Angus Kirk | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V4 | ★★ # 23. Sit-start to horn | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V5 | ★★ #2. Inside roof arch | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V0 | ★ Groove
Up the middle groove | 6m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V1 | ★★ # 13. Traverse the lip | 6m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V0 | ★ # 24. Low traverse inside arch | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V5 | The Running Man
Fingery stand start at centre of the boulder on left crimp and right pinch. Tricky first move to good hold followed by a spicy top out. FA: Garbriel R. | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6 | #3. Traverse out deep cave | 7m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V4 | ★ Line Rider
Sit start on left hand crimp and right hand side-pull/undercling, head up and slightly left to good holds on ledge. FA: Angus Kirk & Gabriel R. | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V5 | # 14. Low traverse inside | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V8 | ★★★ Peace of Sunshine stand
Stand start to Peace of Sunshine. Start with left hand on the crimp and right on the pinch. May need to stack a pad if you're shorter FA: Angus Kirk | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V8 | ★★ Jodi's traverse | 5m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V3 | ★ #4. Traverse out | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V4 | ★ Overhang Left Sit
On the right overhanging face. Layback sit start the left side of the overhanding face on a pocket and rail. Head up through small ledge to rock over and finish with a exposed top section up the right side of the slab. A little scary but quite cool. | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V5 | ★★ # 15. High traverse inside | 6m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V0 | ★ # 26. Low traverse from back | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V8 - 10 | Hangman Project
Low right start to The Running Man potentially using high toe hook in right | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V5 | #5. The terrifying bridging exit | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V12 | ★★★ # 16. Chronos
Sit start at the back of the cave. Climb directly out of the cave following the obvious line of holds in the horizontal roof. Finish standing on the ledge to the Left of the middle cave entrance. | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V4 | ★★ # 27. High traverse above arch | 7m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V5 | #6. Full traverse of inner cave | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | B-b-b-boulders
Start on edge of crack feature and traverse along it to the top of the boulder. FA: Kate Haydon | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | ★ # 17. Traverse left arch | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V5 | # 28. Low traverse | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V0 | ★ #7. The right Arete | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | ★ # 18. Big bulbous jugs | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
2018 | |||||
V4 | ★ Monkey Mind
Sit start the bottomless slab. Challenging mantle into a easy slab to glory FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2018 | 5m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V3 | ★ Unknown1
Sit start the long arete traverse. FA: Gabe, 2018 | 5m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V3 | ★ Unknown2
Sit start the slab FA: Hugh, 2018 | 2m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
2022 | |||||
V10 | ★★ Peace of Sunshine
Half way into the cave on the right. Sit start on angled rail, work your way to the top of the big bulge then drop down. FA: Angus Kirk, 26 6월 2022 | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V7 | ★★★ Snake Bite
Sit start on low block at the back left of the cave. Shouldery move to compressing slopers. Exit out left towards the mouth of the cave finishing on the ledge around the corner. FA: angus kirk, 4 10월 2022 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
2023 | |||||
V5/6 | Manicure
Hard start on small and sharp holds in the middle of the wall. One mover dyno to mantle top out. FA: Mischa van B., 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V12 | Grin and Bear It
Up the spine with the smiley face on it in the narrow part of the cave. Start left hand on low crimp and right hand on ledge. Work up the spine, through kneebar and crimps and finish left on jugs. FA: Mischa van B., 2023 | 4m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V10 | Grin and Bear It stand
Stand start to Grin and Bear It. Start o right hand pinch and left hand crimp, kneebar and move through crimps. Finish on left hand jugs FA: Mischa van B., 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V11 | Prometheus
Start on good slot about 1.5m in and on the right hand side of the middle cave entrance. Complete tensiony moves through holds on roof to obvious large sloping rail (shared with Chronos). Finish on ledge to the left of middle cave entrance. FA: Mischa van B., 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1/2 | ★★ Green-Way
Start on low feet in middle of boulder. Proceed straight up through feet and up the middle of the bulge. You can exit out left, through a blocky rail, or right, through some flat edges, early which are about V1's FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V3 | ★★★ V3's Get Degree's
Sit start left side of the Standing boulder (Boulder on top of vert wall) with right hand on the arete and left on an undercling pinch on the bottom of the boulder. Move to slope-y crimp and work your way up to easy mantle. Note: the landing is a little sketchy so take a spotter if you aren't confident. FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1 | ★★ B. Hicks
Smear low on dish on the left of the slab boulder. Stand up through big blocky foot and move up ,through large blocky rail, to easy top FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Step Up
Start on obvious sidepull/pinch on the middle-right of the slab boulder. Move up through the feet and reach a jug followed by an easy top-out. FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1 | Slide to the Right
Start on sidepull/pinch on the middle-right of the slab boulder and move right using a good crimp and couple of feet. Easy top-out FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1 | Criss-Cross
Start with right hand on large under-cling and left on a gaston. Smear with right to gain feet and stand up to easy topout FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V2 | ★★★ Resisting Arete's
Sit start on the bottom of the arete, moving hands up to the top edge and mantle to top out. Can do an easier version if you exit around the side early (V1/2). FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1 | ★★ Slide to the Left
Start on Sidepull/Pinch on the middle right of the slab Boulder. Work feet up left and use flat edge and crimp to top out FA: Eilish Fitzgerald, 7 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Side Hustle
Start on obvious side pull on the right of the standing boulder. Find feet and move up to a delicate mantle. The landing is a little uneven but, if you aren't confident, would be fine with a spotter. FA: Gabriel R., 13 5월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V8/9 | Left-Hand Man
Start on left hand of boulder with right hand on low sharp crimp and left on small slopey ledge. Hold tension and traverse out right moving through side pull to top out of Running Man. FA: Mischa van B., 21 8월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V2 | No Moccasins
On the backside of the Sunnyside boulder. Start left on low rail and right on good next rail up. Move up through good holds with left foot around the corner to easy top out. FA: Felix E.B., 3 10월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V7 | Christmas Mince Pies
Sit start with both hands on small crimps on the right of the boulder. Crimpy moves and knee to go right hand to positive flake. Move through crimps and mantle to finish. FA: Gabriel R., 2 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6 | ★★★ Gift Wrapped
Sit start under the prow on left hand scoop and wrap. Sharp wraps and heels to move up the left side of the boulder. Traverse the top of the boulder on good slopers to mantle top out. FA: Angus Kirk & Gabriel R., 2 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V3 | ★ Get-A-Fix
Start on right undercling pinch and left square crimp. Move through incut jug, up slopey holds and crimps to high but decent top. The landing isnt level and the boulder is high so perhaps a couple pads are needed. FA: Oscar Sollie, 2 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V1 | ★★ Self-diagnosed Hypochondriac
Start on juggy left sidepull and arete. Move up through holds to sloping rail while smearing. Easy top out on jugs. Nice moves for the grade but uneven bad landing so not recommended for beginners. FA: Oscar Sollie, 6 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Ayano
Sit start on side-pull near centre of the boulder. Powerful move to another side-pull and up to crimps and pockets for a slightly tricky top out. FA: Teddy Périgaux, 7 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V0 | B-b-b-bats
Start with a right pinch and left press. Move through jug to mantle top-out. FA: Olivia Jarosz, 10 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
VB | B-b-b-boulders Direct
Start on left side of crack feature and move over onto slab before head up to top out. FA: Olivia Jarosz, 10 12월 2023 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
2024 | |||||
V3 | ★★ Night Shifts
Line laybacking up the arete around the back left of the boulder. Start on arete, move up with heels and body positioning to slabby dabby top-out. FA: Oscar Sollie, 17 1월 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V3 | ★★ Coach K
Left of Fred the cave monster. Starting in the seam, up and right on positive holds. Finished matched on high jug. FA: Oliver Rickford, 12 2월 | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||
V5 | Jenga
Three stacked boulders up the left side of the entrance boulders. Sit start low at the bottom corner of the middle boulder. Use heel-toe cam, jugs and knee-bar to reach crimp before a tricky mantle topout FA: Gabriel R., 20 2월 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6 | Fracture
Sit start in groove below the crack on the left hand side of the entrance boulders. Hard start moves through knee-bar and crimp to jam/layback up the easier crack section. FA: Gabriel R., 20 2월 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6 | Loud and Proud
Sit start on underclings at front of boulder then use incut crimp and high foot to dyno to ledge. Exit the right side of the ledge for the heady-ish top out. FA: Gabriel R., 2 3월 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V6/7 | Magic Potion
Start on perfect Gaston and move up through pinch and crimp onto right face. Some heel hook wizardry available. Nice topout but has a rocky landing so recommend a 2nd pad or spotter. FA: Angus Kirk, 2 3월 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||
V8/9 | Mind Freak
Sit start to Magic Potion. Start on right hand flat edge and left incut undercling. Hard move into the start hold of magic potion followed by a foot walk, some matching and you're good to go on the stand. FA: Gabriel R., 2 3월 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach |
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