등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | 암장 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren
1
5+
45m
2
6-
40m
3
6
45m
4
5-
25m
5
4
30m
6
6-
45m
7
6
45m
8
5+
40m
9
6
45m
10
4+
30m
11
5
35m
12
3
55m
Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.
FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1980 | 480m, 12 | Lofoten | ||
6+ | ★★★ Himmelen kan vente
1
4+
25m
2
6+
50m
3
3+
30m
4
6-
40m
5
5-
40m
6
6+
35m
7
6+
30m
8
6+
35m
9
6+
25m
| 310m, 9 | Lofoten | ||
6 | ★★★ Ypperstepresten
1
6-
45m
2
5
42m
3
6
30m
4
5-
45m
5
3-
60m
This route can easily be done in 3 pitches to storhylla by stretching the first belay to a stance close to the roof (55m) and pitch 2 until one of the good ledges above the roof (45/50m). This avoids rope drag and bad communication for the roof pitch (P2). Protection is good (heart in the book dates back to before micro cams/totems) FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Aart Verhage, 1992 | 220m, 5 | Lofoten | ||
6C | ★★ Taktraversen | Lofoten | |||
7- | ★★★ Klokkeren
1
5-
50m
2
6-
35m
3
6-
40m
4
7-
24m
Excellent climbing from Storhylla up the corner system left of Vestpillaren (rejoins at the slanting corner stance). FA: Tommy Nilsson, 1984 | 150m, 4 | Lofoten | ||
5 | ★ Stive støvler | Lofoten | |||
7 PROT:R | ★★★ The Codfather
1
5
40m
2
6-
25m
3
7
50m
4
7
50m
5
6+
50m
6
6
55m
7
5-
30m
8
6
35m
9
6
50m
10
6
55m
11
3 R
55m
Some images here- View this post on Instagram FA: Mark Garthwaite & Mick Fowler, 1999 | 500m, 11 | Lofoten | ||
5 | Fiskerisset | Lofoten | |||
5+ | ★ Arilds vegg | Lofoten | |||
6A | Gråeggen | Lofoten | |||
5+ | ★★ Haakons vegg | Lofoten | |||
5+ | ★★ Vestpillaren original starten
1
4
40m
2
5
40m
3
5+
35m
4
4
20m
The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay FA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978 | 140m, 4 | Lofoten | ||
4+ | ★★ Masse tak | Lofoten | |||
6A | ★★ Meyers gamasjer | Lofoten | |||
7+ | ★★★ Reisen
1
5
20m
2
5+
50m
3
6+
30m
4
6+
55m
5
7+
30m
6
6+
40m
7
6
50m
8
6+
55m
9
5+
40m
10
7
40m
11
7-
30m
FA: Tom Cosgriff & Sjur Nesheim, 1993 | 440m, 11 | Lofoten | ||
6A | ★ Skrårisset | Lofoten | |||
7 | ★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning
1
6-
40m
2
4+
45m
3
7
35m
4
7-
35m
The original finish goes left from the slanting corner ledge.
FA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978 | 160m, 4 | Lofoten | ||
4 | Flaket | Lofoten | |||
4+ | Torskeryggen | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Fiskeøyet | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Skreihodet | Lofoten | |||
5 | ★ Kjell Oves vegg | Lofoten | |||
6A | ★ Lave traversen | Lofoten | |||
5+ | ★ Taktrening | Lofoten | |||
6B | Flakeggen | Lofoten | |||
6A+ | Ny dihedral | Lofoten | |||
5+ | ★ Grårisset | Lofoten | |||
7 PROT:R | ★★★ Korstoget
1
6
35m
2
5
40m
3
6
40m
4
5
30m
5
6- R
35m
6
7
35m
7
6+ R
35m
8
5+
35m
9
4
35m
10
3
30m
11
3
35m
Some excellent crack, slab and face climbing. The physical crux is bolted (and can easily be French freed). Images here: View this post on Instagram FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1992 | 390m, 11, 3 | Lofoten | ||
4 | Stigen | Lofoten | |||
6A | Veggegg | Lofoten | |||
6C | ★ Lofotsommer | Lofoten | |||
4+ | ★ Lette Risset | Lofoten | |||
6A | ★ Hjørnet mot høyre | Lofoten | |||
6B+ | Jockes vegg | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Eliminasjonsveggen | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Lille hjørnet | Lofoten | |||
5 | ★ Skjult sprekk | Lofoten | |||
4 | Baugetaket | Lofoten | |||
6A | ★ Fingeravtrykk | Lofoten | |||
7A+ | ★★ Presten roof short version | Lofoten | |||
6C | ★ Giljotinen høyre | Lofoten | |||
6A | Lille overhenget | Lofoten | |||
6A+ | Runde Svaet | Lofoten | |||
6A | ★★ Prestentraversen | Lofoten | |||
4C | Mikroveggen | Lofoten | |||
6C | ★ Morstadstrekket | Lofoten | |||
6A | ★ Manteleggen | Lofoten | |||
7 | ★★★ Joika Ekspressen
1
5+
45m
2
6-
40m
3
6+
45m
4
4
20m
5
5-
25m
6
6-
35m
7
6-
40m
8
7-
20m
9
6-
60m
10
7
35m
11
7-
35m
A direct route straight up the middle of Presten linking together some excellent pitches from 4 classic routes. Scenic & well protected, it´s a particularly great outing for busy days on the Priest.
FA: Rune Harjo Jensen & Philip C, 2019 | 400m, 11 | Lofoten | ||
6A | ★ Øverhengende veggen | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Andre sva | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Bakkeveggen | Lofoten | |||
4+ | Første sva | Lofoten | |||
7A+ | ★ Røde risset | Lofoten | |||
{FB} 4+ | you know you want it
The chimney | Lofoten | |||
7A | ★ Lave taket | Lofoten | |||
4+ | Kjerktrappen | Lofoten | |||
7B | ★★ Presten roof original | Lofoten | |||
6+ | ★★ Variasjon til en variasjon
Take the crack to the left from the pitch 2 Vestpillaren anchor. It´s nice, well protected climbing that´s handy for passing slower parties. FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Niels Poulsen, 1992 | 45m | Lofoten | ||
4+ | Hjörnerisset | Lofoten | |||
8 | ★★★ Stålormsrisset
Steep fingers & hands up the flake into a mantle and slab finish. Protection is fine despite the heart rating in the guidebook. Bolted loweroff as of 2019 (possible to setup a TR) FA: Magnus Eriksson & Frej Wichman, 2008 | Lofoten | |||
6B+ | Wegges vegg | Lofoten | |||
7A+ | Nesen | Lofoten | |||
4 | Badekaret | Lofoten | |||
6C | Fuck UDI | Lofoten | |||
6- AID:A0 | Biskopen | Lofoten | |||
6B | Roadkill | Lofoten | |||
5 | Baking paper | Lofoten | |||
6- AID:A1 | ★ Muldvarpen
FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1995 | 100m, 2 | Lofoten | ||
6C+ | Marius vegg | Lofoten | |||
4 | Havfruen | Lofoten | |||
6B | After Eight | Lofoten | |||
7B | Roadkill sds | Lofoten | |||
6B | Ukjent travers | Lofoten | |||
6- | ★ Tarzan
FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Johan Sandberg, 1995 | 100m, 2 | Lofoten | ||
6A+ | Lave traversen extension | Lofoten | |||
6C+ | Damveggen direkt | Lofoten | |||
4+ | Lillegut | Lofoten | |||
6B | Vårrus | Lofoten | |||
7 | Søndagskole turen | Lofoten | |||
6C+ | Giljotinen venstre | Lofoten | |||
6B | Backside Beauty | Lofoten | |||
6B | Runde manteln | Lofoten | |||
6A+ | ★ Jammestrekket | Lofoten | |||
6 | Massor av kubik | Lofoten | |||
6C | Damveggen høyre | Lofoten | |||
7B | Unknown #72 | Lofoten | |||
6A+ | Silver Dagger | Lofoten | |||
6A | Speeding Niggah | Lofoten | |||
7A | Lange traversen | Lofoten | |||
6C | Swing It | Lofoten | |||
7 | Spinning Wheel | Lofoten | |||
6A | Dülferhjørnet | Lofoten | |||
5+ | Solan | Lofoten | |||
6B | Seal Deal | Lofoten | |||
6- | Vestpillaren Variation Start | 50m | Lofoten | ||
7C | ★★★ Takrisset
The roof crack. The start is nails for large hands. | Lofoten | |||
6A+ | Outreach | Lofoten | |||
6B | Posøren | Lofoten | |||
6A+ | Morgan's Eye | Lofoten | |||
6 | Easy Rider and the Fat Boy | Lofoten |