루트들 전통등반로서 Cedarberg Kloof에서

The downstream facing open book to right of recess about 10m downstream of 'Callisto Crack' .

1. 35m 16 Climb the open book moving through bulge at top.

Variation:

1. 35m 16 Climb the open book until about 2/3 of the way to the top; Traverse right on rail and top out in the grove close to the arête. (Nov 2012 Dickie Talma,PW Nel,Wesley Black)

This climb starts upstream of the descent gully near the upper campsite, on the true right of the kloof. It starts in the recess 8m downstream of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' .

1. 22m 15 Climb the recess/chimney. Finish through the crack on the left.

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of CEDARBERG RECESS.

1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in CEDARBERG CORNER), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation: 2a. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

30m upstream of Cederberg/Tonquani junction is a platform 1.5m above the stream level. 15m above the platform is cave.

1. 15m (7) Start on platform and climb easily up tending rightwards then traverse left into cave.

2. 31m (12) Climb to the left of the cave and then follow shallow recess, past 2 small trees, to a large (1x1x1m) block on the edge above. This point is at the same height as the start of the crux pitches of Golden Balls.

3. 35m (9) Above the belay is a sloping ramp with a hand crack on the right. Climb up this. At the top of the ramp continue straight up to a ledge with a tree shared with Golden Balls.

From the ledge you can scramble out easily to the left and up a gully.

Original variation: The original route traverses right out of cave then up a crack to a wide sloping grassy ledge. Then up to the point where pitch 3 starts.

About 100m upstream of the easy descent gully at the upper campsite is a rock outcrop. The climb starts almost from stream level but about 30m away from the water on the true right of the kloof. The objective is a 25m face brushed by a tree at about 15m.

1. [21] 25m Start in the middle and climb diagonally left until the friend rail at 12m (18). Move right, and then continue straight up the face (reachy).

Variation:

Chicken out onto the arête (20) at 17m and doddle on up.

About 40m downstream of 'Church Window' a number of boulders block the stream over which you have to scramble. The climb is just downstream of these boulders on the true right. The climb starts in a 4m high dihedral.

1. [6] 24m

   From the base of the climb you can see a short (2m) chimney about 20m above you. Just above the chimney is a tree, this is the first belay. Climb up the dihedral, go up and right until you are at the same height as the chimney but 3m right of it. Traverse over sloping holds on ramp to the tree.

2. [10] 15m

   Behind the tree is a large chimney/crack with some chockstones at the top. Climb this. Above the crack step left and climb the next crack, also with chockstones above. Belay on short stamvrug tree at the base of a large cave/chimney. Don't go left around the first crack; the climbing looks easy and the protection is good but you will end up just a little above the small tree for the belay and the rock is a bit too chossy at this point for a good anchor.

3. [7] 25m

   Walk into cave/chimney around the corner where it makes a left turn. Walk out onto outcrop and take in the exposure (you can belay here if the rope drag is too much). Then go back and continue up chimney and then left to a large ledge with a tree belay.

On right of ledge is a boulder, climb over this and scramble down gully to a large tree and abseil down. (46m to bottom)

Alternative to pitch 1 (12): Climb the chimney instead of going around it. Optional pitch 4 (9m, 7): To top out: On the right of the ledge on top of pitch 3 is a boulder. From this boulder up about 1m then traverse left until you can easily scramble to the top. From here walk right to a point above the big abseil tree mentioned above in this description and make a short abseil to it and then a long abseil to the bottom..

The route takes an impressive line up the steep buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool and finishes up the slanting chimney crack which can be seen from 'Frog Gully' . Start 18m downstream of the swimming pool below a tree-filled corner immediately left of 'Cedarberg Traverse' buttress.

1. [15] 25m

   Ascend the corner to trees in a recess (6m) and continue up to a large ledge and belay (as for pitch 3 belay of 'Cedarberg Traverse' )

2. [16] 18m

   Traverse right ( 'Cedarberg Traverse' in reverse) until one can move up to gain a white slab above. Move right and up to the top right hand corner of the slab whence an exhilarating swing right is made. Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.

3. [19] 18m

   Move to the extreme right end of the ledge and up the initial overhang in the slanting chimney-crack. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue to the top with two good resting ledges. A fine, impressive pitch in a superb position.

Note:

1. This is one of the best routes in the Magaliesberg – climb it.

2. There is a bolted anchor at the top from which you do a 60m abseil to the kloof floor.

Commences on the ridge immediately downstream of 'Labyrinth' recess. An inverted V ending in a very narrow crack like an inverted funnel - to the right of the prominent red overhangs and about 25m above stream - forms a very good landmark. Two large trees locate the bottom pitch.

1. [13]25m

   Starting a few meters to the left of the lower tree, the route ascends diagonally upwards to the left over a series of steps to about 8m above the stream. Thence upwards to a few meters below the sloping face forming the inverted V. Then traverse to the right to a small stance on the corner about 2m below the right edge of the inverted V. The belay is through an eye through the rock on the corner. The right hand edge of the eye is a "loosish" rock but the belay is good.

2. [16] 15m

   Commence by climbing the right hand edge of inverted V as close to overhang as possible, for 5m then traverse to left hand side of V. The ascent continues up the left hand red face to the top of the inverted V. Up to this point the climbing is delicate. Care is necessary to avoid loose rock. Good belay available on ledge on left at top of inverted V.

3. [11] 22m

   Straight up face to immediately left of chimney leading up from stance. Good typical Cedarberg holds.

4. [6] 25m

   The final pitch is mild and many routes may be chosen.

Note:

From third stance a series of fascinating tunnels will be seen. One of these forms a gash parallel to the face just climbed. It is possible to chimney down this tunnel to the bottom 9m below. A second tunnel curves down towards the right and may be descended to join Labyrinth route. It is possible to girdle the crag by means of a traverse across the face and ascend at corner.

About 25m below the main swimming pool, a large roof can be seen high up with an obvious jam crack cutting through it. Scramble to the base of the face below this roof.

1. 30m 18 Follow the faint crack in the centre of the face (fixed piton protecting crux), moving left higher up to gain the ledge above. Climb the short face (old piton), using arete on left to ledge, and continue steeply to good tree.

2. 15m 17 Swing right (yalpesroH) to beneath the roof and its crack, and thus gain the belay ledge above.

Note:

On pitch 1, it is possible to continue straight up the crack instead of moving left at grade 22.

The route aims for a crack running up the centre of a large butterfly shaped buttress.

Frog Face climbs the left edge of a large recess. Downstream of the recess is a buttress at the top of which is a crack and the faces on either side of the crack form a very obtuse angle. The crack and the faces resembles a butterfly's body and wings. Easily scramble up the right hand side of the large recess. The climb starts about 15m up from the stream.

1. 40m (11) Climb up in the direction of the butterfly going up diagonally to the right. Below the butterfly is a crack that faces downstream at the bottom, climb up this and belay a few meters below the butterfly.

2. 15m (17) Ascend the crack up centre of the butterfly. About half-way up the butterfly, traverse left 2m and climb out towards the left of the butterfly.

Start upstream from 'Twist and Shout' , immediately above the worm-hole descent.

1. [15] 20m

   Climb the right hand crack topped by an overhang, hand-traverse left from under overhang to a ledge. Straight up a crack to easy ground and tree belay. Scramble up to next rock band.

2. [13] 20m

   Climb a chimney which slants left. Then climb through an obvious recess.

This climb ascends the easy face to the left of 'Terminator' .

1. 20m 11 Take the easiest way up the face.

Note:

Two routes could be made up this face.

Immediately downstream of STRAIGHT JERRY is a buttress split by a groove starting at 15m and capped by a large overhang. Scramble 15m to the base of the recess.

1. 12m 15 Ascend the steep recess by bridging or chimneying until the angle relents. Continue up to a stance on the left.

2. 12m 13 Step back into the groove and ascend to detached blocks on the right to belay below the large overhangs.

3. 11m 17 Move up a short steep groove above the detached blocks until a good handrail is reached. Swing left and make an awkward move to gain the broad ledge further left. (This ledge is on a nose halfway through the overhangs.) Continue at this level and descend to a tree belay around the corner. Alternatively, once on the broad ledge, move up to a large block under the overhang and ascend directly from this with strenuous moves (19). Continue directly up the face above the overhang and continue to the top.

4. 18m 13 From the tree belay ascend the wall above to a good handrail. Traverse right onto the front face above the overhang and continue to the top.

Note:

Generally on sound, clean rock. Pitches 3 and 4 provide exposed climbing.

This route takes the arete between 'Dom's Party' and 'Callisto Crack' .

1. 35m 19 Start as for 'Callisto Crack' , but when possible make a tricky step left to a small ledge. Move up to the base of a small cubby hole below the roof. A long move right brings one to the arete, the right hand face of which is easily followed to the same stance as 'Dom's Party' .

Note:

Gear is adequate and the route may be a bit reachy for shorter climbers.

The climb starts approximately 20m downstream of 'Torch Route' , in a 90° corner directly opposite the large waterfall below 'Grey Gully' .

1. [15] 10m

   Commence in a corner (beacon) with a narrow chimney wedged with large chockstones. Climb 5m to surmount the chockstones and then move left and climb the short sloping right hand face to the belay ledge (crux).

2. [15] 18m

   Facing downstream, climb 1m on the right hand face to a triangular ledge using a one-finger pull-up (crux) then climb the sloping overhanging corner crack (crux) to a cubbyhole. From the back of the cubbyhole climb the crack to the right of a large tree branch, which touches the face, to a 1m wide ledge.

3. [15] 12m

   From the right hand side of the ledge climb the slight recess for 4m, move left and climb the left hand corner of the free standing buttress to the top, exiting at the left (crux - no holds).

Note:

A good climb with adequate protection.(Previous editors note: It sounds a bit desperate for 15.)

Commences about 5m above the big tree opposite the lower swimming pool.

1. 25m 11 Straight up the crack starting immediately above the tree to a wide tree-grown ledge. Intermediate belays are possible in this crack.

2. 18m 11 Follow the 3m wide ledge to the left for about 11m to a point underneath a reddish coloured rock face, the upper portions of which overhang. Beneath this overhang is a ledge with a tree and about 2m below this again is the "couch" - a horizontal slit in the rock, deep, broad and level, but barely 15cm high. The pitch from the wide ledge proceeds straight up into the right hand side of the "couch" wherein the body lies prostrate and is then contorted to the left side, and out again to the face which is climbed to the ledge above, where a good belay is obtained on the tree.

3. 25m 10 From the last ledge one can climb out either right or left.

The corner crack left of 'Terminator' .

On small crag close to the upper campsite. Route follows right facing dihedral capped by overhang, about 20m from the campsite on the true right hand side of the river. Walk around corner to base of route.

1. [18] 20m Gain dihedral (and crack just to the right of it) by a tricky move, and continue to overhang. Through overhang on left to ledge, and up easy hand crack above.

The climb is situated just downstream of FROG GULLY and can be seen from the swimming pool. It starts up the grey buttress to the right of the gully and makes for a vertical, upstream facing, right-angled red open book.

1. 25m 7 Climb the buttress, bearing in towards the base of the right-angled open book recess.

2. 14m 18 Climb left hand face of open book recess for 6m. About halfway up, move right 30cm or so into corner. Ascend in crack 3m. Move out right and up 3m to cubby hole. Move right and up to stance 1,5m.

3. 12m 7 Climb to right of tree to top.

Variation: (four stars)

To the left of pitch 3, the main buttress continues for a further 12m.

3a. 12m 17 Step back left over the main corner pitch, gain the groove above and follow the continuation crack for a further 6m. Move left for 2m and continue to the top. (Apr 1990 R. Dodding and P. Fatti)

About 10m left of 'Riders on the Storm' a break can be seen with an obvious layback about 10m up.

1. 20m 16 Climb the break to the top of the crack.

Climb the arete and face left of 'Easy Meat' .

Just downstream of the wormhole descent, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof.

1. [25] 30m

   ???1. 30m 25 Use roots to climb the left side of the cone. Climb the continuation crack which overhangs to begin with before tackling the roof crack. Gain slab above roof, and hence onto ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge.

2. [15] 18m

   To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.

Variation: 2a. 18m 13 For a direct finish, belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top. (Mar 1974 J. Linke and T. Hoy)

1. 20m 15 Ascend the crack and face on the right hand side of the buttress with the Mountain Club of South Africa signboard below the crag at the top of Cedarberg. Climb a short crack system. Move right onto a ledge. Pull through the steep face above.

Near the upper meeting place, left of 'Mercers Layback' the descent gully is formed by the main side of the kloof, and a broken buttress. Start on the stream-ward (down-hill) face of the buttress.

1. 15m 14 Take the left-most hand crack (i.e. just left of 'Gorillas in the Mist' ). On the ledge at half-height, move right, and ascend the narrowing off-width.

About 10m left of 'Mercers Layback' is an obvious buttress, separated from the main buttress.

1. 20m 12 Climb the crack system up the upstream side of the buttress.

Situated on the line of a deep recess about 110m below a broken bay and almost immediately opposite a small cave on the left of the kloof at ground level. The climb is on the immediate upstream side of a definite rock ridge projecting into the kloof.

1. [6] 23m

   A 2m climb from stream level into niche below overhang. Upwards, bearing to left into depths of recess where crack leads to belay behind tree.

2. [8] 20m

   From first stance ease left to outside edge of recess then upwards on ridge to small band thence to right in exposed position on good flat stance.

3. [8] 37m

   On red rock immediately above bushes behind second stance. A grade 13 variation is possible.

Starts on right side of large recess about 20m upstream from the junction with 'Lower Tonquani Kloof'

1. [19] 21m

   Climb face on right side of recess to platform Ascend 3m to piton point. Traverse left 2m into corner with vertical crack. Move 2,5m up and then semi-hand traverse left 2,5m to possible stance. Diagonally up and right for about 2,5m into crack which cuts overhang. Climb crack for 5m to stance.

2. [16] 20m

   Continue 6m up recess to overhang and move across to good holds on right. Ascend 5m and turn second overhang to right. Ascend face to tree belay.

Variation:

1. 15m 18 Start in the same place as the first pitch. Instead of moving right, climb straight up the crack. Step to the left to rejoin the original route. (This pitch is well protected.) (Jan 1990 A. Margetts and P. McCann)

Starts some 10-12m upstream of 'Golden Pitcher Crag' and finishes up the Golden Pitcher.

1. [13] 14m

   Climb diagonally left 5m up slight recess to ledge. Climb face above to ledge.

2. 12m 15 About 3m up crack just to right of trees, 3m layback to cubby hole, 3m up overhanging rock using good grips. Move 0,5m left to seat below broad overhang. Traverse right to broad ledge using small tree as handhold, followed by a dassie traverse.

3. 9m 5 Climb on to large block. Traverse right 6m to stance at bottom of cubby hole.

4. 9m 15 Ascend overhanging crack to leave cubby hole, using small holds on left hand side. Tree belay. Scramble 6m to base of "pitcher".

5. 12m 7 Climb open book to broad ledge below "pitcher".

6. 9m 15,A1 A shoulder or aid enables leader to reach small tree in crack. Make for second tree in cleft in centre of "pitcher".

7. 12m 7 Ascend to top of "pitcher" from far side. The descent to the base of the "pitcher" on this side involves further grade 7 climbing.

The route ascends the steep red face immediately downstream of 'Red Falcon Crag' . Start 9m downstream of the tree which marks the start of 'Red Falcon Crag' . Scramble 3m to a ledge.

1. [10] 9m

   Ascend diagonally left over ledges and reach up to a small tree then move left to two large trees and belay in broken corner.

2. [17] 18m

   Move back right to the small trees and up right into a shallow scoop in the whitish face (immediately above the start). Ascend to a small overhang and traverse right under the nose then up 3m to a sitting stance in the upstream facing corner. Belays on a block on the nose and peg.

3. [17] 12m

   Move up onto the nose and diagonally left to a square ledge. Ascend the steep face above strenuously then move right to a tree belay.

4. [15] 28m

   Traverse 6m back left and up left onto a block. Ascend steeply up left on good holds towards the arete. Continue up about 3m right of the arete to a tree belay. A delightful pitch with good protection and incut holds.

Start directly opposite RED FALCON CRAG where there is a prominent tree-filled recess. Scramble up this for 13m to the base of a steep, slightly overhanging chimney crack in the left hand wall of the recess.

1. 30m 17 Climb the crack (good nut runners) for 18m to where the angle eases. Continue up over easier broken rock to a large ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m 11 Climb the face at the back of the ledge, between two prominent recesses to a ledge at 10m. Continue diagonally up right to a stance on a pinnacle on top of the right hand recess.

3. 25m 10 Climb the smooth face above on good holds tending left towards the arete after 10m. Follow the arete easily to the top.

Variation:

1. 20m 13 From right hand edge of ledge step right onto buttress and climb up exposed face and continue up open book recess to the stance. (M.A. Prior and L.P. Fatti)

Between 'Deception' and 'Red Falcon Crag' is "overhanging rock". A buttress starts from wide ledges about 18m above the kloof bed. On the right hand side of the buttress is a prominent steep black groove. 'Black Shadow' gains this using a large flake on the left to avoid the initial overhanging section. On the left side of the buttress is a shallow groove leading onto a slanting slab and this is the line of 'Heatstorm' Scramble to the large ledges at base of the buttress and block belay near the start of the obvious flake crack.

1. [15] 18m

   Climb the flake crack for 5m to where it steepens. Traverse right (awkward) to a good ledge, move up and walk right on top of the flake into the black groove. Move up to a tree belay in a cave.

2. [20] 15m

   Ascend the groove by lay-backing and bridging.

Start opposite the wet, vegetated groove of ADRENALIN, 25m upstream of the swimming pool. Scramble up to a tree-filled ledge at 3m.

1. 18m 7 Ascend a large corner on the left for 5m, then traverse right to second tree (or ascend directly to this tree via a shallow groove at 13) Ascend to below the overhang then traverse right 11m to a large tree belay at the right end of a wide ledge.

2. 15m 12 Move back left then traverse 6m left above the overhang to the base of a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to a peg belay in the horizontal break.

3. 12m 12 Pull over the bulge strenuously and then up rightwards into a corner (to the right of the V-groove) and up this to a tree at the top. Scramble up to a large ledge and tree belay. (Or ascend the V-groove and the crack in the right wall at 13)

4. 22m 15 Under the large overhang is a red projecting block and this is used to pass the overhang (right-hand side used on MATERNITY COUCH). Move up a few metres then traverse left and up to the top of an obvious nose. Up rightwards and past a sapling (Ed Note: That was in 1967!) to belay on the right.

5. 30m 12 Move across right, across the chimney of MATERNITY COUCH and the face then continue up the rib, and directly up the pinnacle front on huge jugs.

About 30m downstream from the main swimming pool there is a shallow cave about 25m above the stream bed partially hidden by much foliage. Scramble to the cave - the crack directly below provides the best climbing (20m).

1. 20m 11 Start in the cave and climb up to a small triangular ledge 5m from the cave floor near the outer edge of the downstream wall of the cave and thence over a chockstone to a belay on the ledge above it. This is a variation to the original route (THE JERRY) which goes around the corner of the downstream wall of the cave and up the face to the same ledge.

2. 15m 15 Climb recess and overhang to ledge above.

3. 25m 6 From this point it is possible to scramble out to the top or alternatively climb out on various variations on the big arete on the left.

On the right side of FROG GULLY (facing up) and approximately 6m to the left of the cave (with old stretcher) can be seen an open book running the height of the cliffs. The open book starts approximately 5m up.

1. 25m 15 Climb the open book using crack in back to second large tree.

2. 20m 11 Follow the continuation crack/groove to top.

On the left side of the kloof just above the wormhole in the floor of the kloof above GOLDEN PITCHER there is a cave about 7m above the stream. Start from the cave.

1. 25m 13 Traverse horizontally right out of the cave underneath the overhangs to just around the corner. Ascend the shallow recess in the steep face above. Move left onto the exposed nose with slab on left where the recess steepens. Ascend the nose and move left to tree belay.

2. 18m 11 Ascend recess to overhangs. Traverse horizontally right round bulge. Ascend slab/corner a few metres, step left and move up short steep face.

3. 20m 10 A large buttress will be seen up to the left. Start in the centre of the buttress (cairn). Pleasant climbing up steep rock on jugs leads to a shallow recess which bears left and leads to the top of the buttress.

Note:

To the left of the finish of the climb there is a "toadstool" which can be climbed on good holds on its downstream side (15).

Located on the buttress immediately downstream and back from the buttress on which the top pitches of 'Boggle' are situated.

1. [15] 25m

   As per the first pitch of 'Boggle' .

2. [11] 15m

   Climb up the gully over mixed ground to the base of an obvious open book which has an off-width crack in its' corner.

3. [20] 20m

   Ascend the face to the right of the open book to a cave which has a dead tree rooted in it. Move across to the small recess on the right of the cave. Climb through the small roof capping the recess and continue up the face above to easier ground. A bollard belay can be taken at the top.

Note:

Protection on the crux of pitch 3 is good.

This route takes a direct line up the buttress directly opposite the Golden Pitcher and immediately upstream of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG. Scramble up a short corner then traverse right on grass and belay at the first tree. This is down and left of a deep cave.

1. 8m 10 Move left and up a short groove to a tree belay in a cave.

2. 15m 10 Move left and ascend the rib to a short crack above the cave. Climb this on good holds and up a recess to a stance on the left and belay on rock knobs.

3. 8m 7 Ascend the rock knobs directly to a large ledge and tree belay.

4. 22m 7 Move right and follow the ramp to its top to a block belay.

5. 12m 8 Traverse 3m left and ascend the face on good holds to the top. Belay on block at the back.

About 80m downstream from 'Straight Jerry' . Starts at downstream end of a long shelf of rock about 2m above water level immediately adjacent to a long narrow pool.

1. [10] 14m

   Climb up a recessed corner to a small ledge.

2. [15] 22m

   Climb a few meters up on the left to a smooth sloping slab from which the left end of a ledge can be reached. This ledge is then followed to the right. (Alternatively, from top of first pitch climb diagonally to the right over alternating smooth slabs and low overhangs to the same spot.)

3. [6] 18m

   Various routes to the top are possible.

Opposite the Golden Pitcher there is a large cave situated 15m above the stream. Start on the left side of the cave directly below its top.

1. 20m 17 Climb up 3m until opposite a block-like projection. Move left onto the block and continue up via difficult moves until it is possible to hand-traverse on rounded holds to a ledge. Climb up the face until level with the top of the cave, traverse right and move up to the gully.

2. 15m 18 On the face to the left of the gully there is an obvious steep crack slanting right. Climb up the gully until a traverse left to the base of the crack can be made. Climb the crack until just above the bulge, then traverse 2m left to a block on the face. Continue up 3m to a ledge on the arete.

3. 30m 13 Climb diagonally right for 6m to the crack of pitch 2, then continue straight up for 25m.

The general line of the route is opposite 'Frog Face' .

1. [11] 9m

   Ascend diagonally to right up ramp, then diagonally left to ledge (eye belay) directly below crack through overhang.

2. [17] 9m

   Ascend 3m to right end of overhang, then traverse left under overhang into crack. Continue up crack.

3. [6] 16m

   Up easy rock to top.

Starts from the broad ledge on true right hand side, halfway down FROG GULLY (i.e. the ledge from which the main pitch of MATERNITY COUCH starts). Start adjacent to tree (cairn).

1. 20m 15 Ascend red rock, with loose-looking flakes, to tree. Step right and continue up to small roof. Make a long stride left under roof onto slab and ascend obvious corner to broad ledge with small tree.

2. 30m 11 Follow obvious recess above, past a pillar on the left, to a smooth scoop. Step out right, gain top of large detached flake on the left and so to the top. A good "end-of-the-day" route.

Starts 9 - 12m downstream of GOLDEN PITCHER FRONTAL. Scramble 18m to foot of a 5m broad grey face immediately to right of large deep cave. Start from tree at bottom right hand corner of face.

1. 15m 10 Climb up face for 9m, then move diagonally left to stance in large recess.

2. 18m 6 Climb up recess to stance at tree.

3. 22m 8 Climb up a few metres then traverse left across steep exposed face to opposite side, then move to top. (A lower traverse of grade 13 can be made.)

Starts opposite a large dead-looking tree with a hollow trunk in the centre of the kloof. Opposite Sorrento.

1. Ascend slight recess (6m) to the left end of a large sloping grassy ledge. Continue op on ridge on left of the massive recess above the grassy ledge. Continue to a large (6x1m) ledge and climb a 2m crack on the right side of the ledge to a smaller ledge.

2. From the left side of the ledge climb the face to the top. Keep left as far as possible in an exposed position. At some point traverse left on 30 cm wide ledge and continue to the top. Climb the chunky overhanging rock above the arch visible from the ground.

Starts directly under roof mentioned in LONDON TOWN, 10m upstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to a small U shaped corner and then up to the left to the ledge at the end of pitch 1 of LONDON TOWN. This ledge is 3m below and 4m to the left of the slit in the overhang. The first pitch is part of LONDON TOWN's second pitch free and the second goes up the buttress above (to the left of LONDON TOWN and GOLDEN BALLS).

1. 15m 18 Move diagonally up right until under slit at right of overhang (old aid pegs in place) and pull through using distant holds. Follow groove above to stance on very sloping ledge just above a tree.

2. 20m 17 Move left from stance (approx 3m) and up onto a sloping ledge with a tree. Follow the recess above, taking the left fork at 15m to a belay with tree. From here one can abseil, or scramble to top.

There is a buttress on the true right of the Mountain Club of South Africa sign. In the middle of the buttress there is a recess/corner. The climb takes the left hand corner in the recess.

1. [20] 10m

   Climb the left hand corner with the crux just off the ground and continue up to a ledge and tree belay.

2. [17] 10m

   Move up the middle of the face behind the ledge, pulling through a small overhang at the top.

The climb starts 4m downstream of 'Church Window' , at the foot of the rock ridge mentioned under that climb.

1. [10] 15m

   Ascend until an overhang forces one to traverse left around the ridge into a corner where there is a small stance.

2. [7] 15m

   Ascend corner 2m. Traverse left 3m, then ascend about 12m and traverse back into corner for stance and belay.

3. [7] 15m

   The route continues up the right hand side and on the outside of a vertical crack. It ends at a wide ledge, where the climb may be ended.

4. [7] 18m

   About 12m left of end of last pitch, there is a red face at right-angles to the kloof. Ascend middle of this face.

An extremely short but pleasant route near the Upper Cedarberg campsite. Approximately 30m downstream of the campsite on the true left is a 1m roof with a finger crack in it. The route takes this line about 5m right of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER.

1. 6m 21 Start on a triangular block, pull through the roof and continue up the layback crack.

Start at the corner 10m downstream of the cave opposite KNEES and CHURCH WINDOW. The climb is the prominent pinnacle visible from the stream.

1. 20m 8 Up vertical face with good holds to small ledge. Keep slightly to right.

2. 13m 7 Straight up to wide ledge and tree belay.

3. 13m 6 Traverse to right to base of corner below pinnacle.

4. 13m 7 Climb corner to base of pinnacle.

5. 13m 10 Climb the crack on the north-west side of the pinnacle.

Variations:

4a. 14m 13 Climb the face to the left of the corner.

5a. 15m 8 Traverse around the base and climb the crack on the east side to the top.

Commences about 15m downstream of CEDARBERG CORNER and at the right side of a very large broken, dirty triangular shaped face.

1. 20m 5 Start at base of triangle and ascend to about 2m above small tree (Ed Note: In 1939!) on right side of triangle. Traverse horizontally 4m to stance. Rock belay.

2. 20m 7 Continue on face towards apex of triangle to about 5m from the apex. Stance on right side of triangle.

3. 14m 10 Move on wide ledge to right until tree is reached by a chimney. Step onto chimney and ascend 8m. Move on wide ledge to chimney directly above former chimney and ascend 6m.

4. 18m 11 Move to right of red face above the top of the chimney. Ascend the angled recess and move over on left hand face to a small stance. Work to right around overhang and then to the top of it, thereafter following the face straight up. The pitch is perpendicular and exposed but has good holds.

The route goes up 5m to the right of THE HOSE i.e. 5m to the left of LEADER'S CORNER. It follows the recess above the cave with the old stretcher on the true left of FROG GULLY. Start at tree to right of cave mouth (cairn).

1. 18m 17 Climb up arete on right until level with top of cave and good hand/arm rail. Traverse 2m left into crack and ascend 10m to ledge on right.

2. 30m 13 Climb up crack until small tree is reached. Above tree move right onto steep wall with good holds and Rhino horn feature. Climb up past tree with convoluted trunk to top.

About 50m down-stream from the upper meeting spot, the true left wall of the kloof comes down to the stream, forming a large, broken buttress. On the upstream face of this buttress, near the up-hill end, there is a shallow crack with rounded lips – it is on the left end of the grey face to the left of OBELIX.

1. 20m 16 Climb this on small gear until the crack terminates, then step right onto a ledge, before scrambling up the final summit block.

A good short pitch to finish the day with. Opposite the Jubilee camp site is a descent path. Whilst descending this path a narrow chimney topped by an overhanging bulge is seen to the right. Next to this is a little wall split by a 1.3m crack. Inside the crack on the left hand side is a little flake at 3m.

1. [17] 13m Climb the crack to the ledge above, move right past gap until the top of the chimney is reached. Climb the bulge using jamming and bridging, then move up on the left wall to the top.

Approximately 50m downstream of the Cedarberg meet spot is a large recess on the left. At the time of writing this up (2007) there was a small growth of what looks like prickly pear nearby. The route is on right-hand side of the upstream-side face, in a recess at the bottom of which is a 3m high rock obelisk (no too secure). A well protected route. 1. 20m 11 Climb the recess with the two cracks behind the obelisk until an overhang is reached (16m). The overhang can either be obviated by a short traverse right and continuing the ascent, or it may be tackled head-on.

This climb starts 2m right of 'Mercers Layback' .

1. 20m 14 Climb diagonally right upwards. Move right into the break and follow this to the top.

Note:

This climb shares the top part of 'Trivial Pursuit' .

The objective is the crack directly above the apex of the "inverted V" of 'Red Falcon Crag' . Start about 8m downstream of the tree marking the start of 'Red Falcon Crag' .

1. [17] 30m

   Climb the recess/crack system leading up to the short pillar at the base of the left hand side of the "inverted V". Continue directly up to the apex of the "V", and step left to a ledge (stance shared with 'Red Falcon Crag' ).

2. [17] 15m

   Step back right and climb the final crack.

The climb is situated on the corner of Tonquani and Cedarberg, opposite 'Aloe Corner'.

1. [17] 15m

   Climb the recess for 6m to a small platform. Move around the bulge to the left to the foot of a steep face. Climb the face to the overhang, where a nut can be placed in a crack. Traverse to the right and move around the corner (crux). Climb up 3m to a large platform.

2. [8] 37m

   Follow the obvious route for about 37m.

3. [6] 22m

   Scramble to the top.

Scramble 18m up right side of gully to point where grey slab (forming the square back of the large recess referred to in FROG FACE and RIGHT ANGLE) meets the right hand ridge of the recess.

1. 30m 7 Ascend corner between back face and right hand ridge to tree belays below overhang.

2. 18m 7 Climb right hand face to top.

This route goes up the line in the middle of the left pillar supporting the "arch" which is above the lower swimming pool. Scramble up to the base of the pillar about 40m above the stream.

1. 40m 21 Start directly below the break with a hard move through the small overhang. Climb the crack up and diagonally right to below a small overhang. Excellent finger-locks take you up to a small ledge and tree. Continue up easy rock to the top.

1. 15m 25 Just right of 'Life After Enlightenment' there is a right-facing, black-streaked dihedral, with a roof and an old peg. The route goes straight up the dihedral and through the roof, onto a ledge. From this ledge, climb 'Scotsman's Safari' to top out.

Situated in a gap between the two series of red overhangs about 75m above lower swimming pool. Climb starts to right of lower series of overhangs.

1. [8] 25m

   Straight up to grassy ledge and up corner to deep crack or cave.

2. [11] 15m

   Chimney up to underneath overhang. Very thin traverse 5m to right, then up crack in rock to good belay.

3. [7] 22m

   Easy climb straight up, although more difficult route possible by bearing left.

The start is just to the left of 'Deception' .

1. [11] 25m

   Climb up to tree and continue upwards behind tree to a high level traverse to the left. Traverse left around corner and continue to small stance in niche below main overhang.

2. [19] 17m

   Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with hand jam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.

3. [13] 34m

   A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few meters then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.

Halfway up FROG GULLY there is a large grass ledge. The route follows the obvious corner crack opposite the top of the first pitch of MATERNITY COUCH (cairn).

1. 40m 11 Climb crack in corner, over blocks, until crack widens to chimney. Climb from top of chimney left up into gully. Block belays. From here scramble 10m to top of gully.

The meeting place at the upper end of Cedarberg is an alcove formed by two rock walls meeting at a right-angle.

1. [10] 10m

   Starts on the extreme left (downstream) corner of the left hand wall, and follow the easy scramble usually ascended to place top-ropes on other routes, stancing on the half-height ledge at the top of 'Riders on the Storm' .

2. [15] 10m

   Moves right onto the on-angle face left of the second pitch of 'Strange Days' , and follow the polished, right-leaning water-grove to the top. The second pitch requires contortion and supplety unusual for the grade.

50-80m below the FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER buttress, there is a prominent 3m high, 6m long boulder just to the right of the path; on the opposite side of the stream is a clearly visible orange overhang. On the upstream face of this buttress there is a deep, easy-angled chimney (FAITH’S CRACK).

1. 30m 13 Start at the bottom of this chimney, and step right onto a rock nose (you are now 3m off the ground.) Sling the tree for psychological protection, and make a leap of faith to the right (actually a short step) onto the next triangular ledge (you are now 6m off the ground, but at the same height as your starting point!) Mantle up and walk up the ledges before climbing the main arête above, first on the right then on the left. Stance just below the top. Descend by scrambling over piles of boulders then down the up-stream side of the buttress (tricky at the bottom). Good moves, views and rock, but a little shy on gear.

Turns the roof right of 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [22] 20m Starting right of 'Cedarberg Recess' start, climb the face immediately left of the right arete. From a ledge about 2m below the roof traverse around to the right. Move up to the obvious rail, and rail left to the prow. Pull up past rails to easier rock which is followed to a stance.

5m left (uphill) of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER is a shallow square-cut recess. On the right side are two parallel cracks on either side of a hollow-sounding pillar about a foot thick.

1. 15m 13 Climb the cracks and the corner to the right, to reach the same stance as FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER. The capping chock-stone is best turned on the right. Though hollow-sounding, the rock did not appear to be loose.

Start about 10m downstream of GREY GULLY (Times Gully) where there is a mostly detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is an obvious crack/recess on the downstream side of the column between the column and the main face.

1. 30m 16 Start at a shallow overhang (1.5m high) to the left of the main crack. Climb through the overhang on short but sharp holds to a ledge with scallops (4m 16). Move right and ascend the crack to the top of the column (Grade eases to 10). Climb the overhang on massive holds and move right and up to a very large ledge (exit left of Twins Gully).

Note:

It is very probable that the main crack between the column and the buttress has been climbed before as it is very obvious.

On a subsequent occasion a more direct first pitch was opened, which, owing to dampness, was avoided by opening party.

1. [19] 22m

   About 25m upstream of swimming pool is a wet vegetated groove. Start 3m left of the wet groove and move up to a nose, then traverse left across a slab to the bottom of a short corner. Move up this awkwardly to a large ledge which is traversed right for 8m to the steep crack above the wet groove. Move up and using a flake on the right wall, make a difficult move past the overhanging block to a niche. Continue up a steep funnel to another niche and peg belay below the main overhang.

2. [19] 17m

   Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with hand jam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.

3. [13] 34m

   A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few meters then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.

Start in very slight recess 6m upstream of start of CEDARBERG CORNER.

1. 9m 7 Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. (This pitch is common with the first pitch of BUTTERFLY.)

2. 30m 18 Move across right to slit at right end of overhang. Move up through slit (a piton and tension on the back rope used on opening ascent). Climb diagonally up to right to small tree sling point and exit through overhanging recess above.

Note:

The first free ascent was in Mar 1986 by S. Middlemiss and M. Cartwright.

Start at the same point as 'Naughty Daughter' .

1. 20m 21 Follow 'Naughty Daughter' up to the start of the hand-traverse rail; from here follow the natural continuation of the corner crack by lay-backing up to the overlap. (Crux). Pull through the overlap by using the crack on the right of the block. Continue up a pleasant face on the right to a ledge with good rap tree.

Notes:

Technically pleasing on the crux sequence.

1. 30m 13 Start up ONE FOR MOM. Just before the chimney starts in earnest, pull up to the rail just below the over-hang on the face to the left, and use it to quickly swing left to reach a twisted and worryingly hollow-sounding horn. Step up thought the overhang on tenuous holds, before easily wandering up the slabs to the prominent corner above. Bomber gear protects the move over the large chockstone. Move up and right, to stance on the very highest point of the buttress.

Note:

There are some awkward moves that are poorly protected – this adds to the experience if you’re game, though!

Climb the overhanging crack a few meters left of 'Kulu' .

1. [19] XXm Climb the overhanging face to the left of 'Church Window' for 15m before linking with 'Church Window' . Gear good even though it looks quite bad.

About 50m down-stream from the sandy “lunch-spot” 100m down from the easy descent gully near the campsite, there is a buttress on the true left, visible from the main path – this is climbed by FRAGILE FORTRESS. A further 50m-70m down-stream there is a second clearly visible buttress. FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER takes the up-stream face of the buttress at its nearest point to the river.

1. 20m 10 Start from the lowest boulders to gain the ledges below a short face with a prominent crack. Proceed upwards and gradually left, with the angle and grade gradually dropping, until the highest boulders are reached.

Note: Descend by walking upstream at the same level as the belay to reach an easy scramble down a gully 30m upstream of the start. Gear is plentiful and the rock sound.

Variation: BABY STEPS - Start as for THE KNELL, ascend 2m to the ledge then traverse right for 3m. Ascend the obvious line to the top. (21 Jul 2007 Claire Othenin-Girard, Malcolm Dunkeld, Warren Krynie and Rob Thomas)

Start about 25m upstream of the main water-fall, opposite smaller waterfall (detached column of rock on front-left of buttress).

1. 45m 15 Climb a shallow recess on right side of buttress. Climb diagonally in the recess and crack to some overhangs. Move slightly right and up a crack to a large ledge. Climb up right on arete to top blocks.

This route starts between 'Cedarberg Traverse' and 'Adrenalin' . About 10m left of 'Adrenalin' there is a short recess, usually a bit damp, with an old peg visible about 4m above ground level. The first pitch has obviously been climbed before but is not written up.

1. [19] 30m

   Climb the recess to a good ledge. Walk right about 5m to another break and climb this to a small ledge on the right where another old peg is to be found. A difficult move up and left brings you onto easier rock. Climb upwards and tending left to ledge which is at the same level as 'Cedarberg Traverse' . Dassie crawl right along the ledge to a large ledge which is about 10m to the right of 'Cedarberg Traverse' .

2. [20] 45m

   Above is an impressive corner. Climb up 15m to a small overhang (15). A difficult move right, around the corner, brings you into a small recess. Continue with difficulty horizontally right into a further recess. Up slightly and then traverse onto a stance common with 'Adrenalin' . Continue up easy rock to the top.

Start about 9m left of 'Fistula' and immediately opposite start of 'Frog Face' and large trees in centre of kloof.

1. [15] 9m

   Mantle shelf onto ledge, then ascend on right to corner 3m below ledge forming first stance of 'Fistula' . Traverse 6m onto large ledge. Move up right hand corner onto the 'Fistula' ledge.

2. [19] 3m

   Ascend overhanging recess to ledge. Stance common with second stance of 'Fistula' .

3. [15] 30m

   From extreme left of stance, ascend 12m to piton point and up right to slab below overhanging face with crack in centre. Proceed up crack and move left between two trees. Ascend 9m up large steps and onto large ledge.

4. [7] 30m

   Ascend 30m over clean face to ledge below overhanging red face.

5. [15] 15m

   Ascend to right onto large block to right of face. Move up to corner and summit.

Halfway down FROG GULLY there is a broad ledge on the true right hand side of the gully. The route starts 3m to the right of a tree at a point where the branches touch the rock (cairn).

1. 22m 19 Pull onto face, 1m right of its undercut base and ascend directly to large block on the left. Make a rising traverse right to gain the finger-jam crack at the base of the open groove containing a tree. Ascend the groove to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 From stance make rising traverse right for about 4m to gain a series of large knobbles and then ascend the thin crack above. Pull over the bulge above, step left and continue directly up the pillar above. Finish up the flake-crack on the left.

Starts just downstream of 'Naughty Daughter' .

1. [21] 30m Climb shallow corner and arete just left of 'Naughty Daughter' .When possible, move left onto wall above roof and follow thin curving crack to ledge.

Above 50m downstream from the LEAP OF FAITH buttress, the kloof floor begins to drop away rapidly. Half way down this decline, and just above the ever-fun slide down the boulder, there is a sandy lunch spot on the true left, with a small cave. This is some 80m above the worm-hole descent. Just downstream from this cave, there is a recess of rounded steps, reaching up to the canopy. Start 5m right of the cave, where tree roots skirt the face.

1. 35m 11 Climb straight up to enter the recess, before moving up and right to exit the canopy on the right hand edge of the recess. Carry on out into the open, and over a 2m rock band, before reaching a grove of small trees, which form the best belay available. Descend by thrashing upstream through bushes (easiest near the upper cliffs) until a small gully is found to scramble down, arriving at the top of the small waterfall just above the sanding lunchspot. There is gear just before moving onto the arête, but nowhere else.

Climbs the vague arete between 'Sunday Driver' and 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [19] 15m Move up and left beneath a small roof to gain a layback crack which is followed to large holds. Continue to a ledge.

3m to the right of HORSEPLAY.

1. 25m 18 Climb the open book and continue up to a stance common with HORSEPLAY.

Starts on the true right of FROG GULLY just above the scramble. At this height, a large ledge extends to the left (looking down).

1. 25m 15 Climb easily up slab to reach 2 holes through the rock. A tricky move above this gains access to the top of the pinnacle. Step left over chimney onto steep, undercut face with mega jugs. Climb upwards. Either step left into chimney (opening party) or venture onto thin face above.

Starts about 20m downstream of GREY GULLY (Times Gully) and 10m downstream of a detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is a pronounced recess/chimney which slopes slightly to the right and starts on a 2m wide ledge which is reached by scrambling up 5m to the right.

1. 15m 14 Start immediately to the right of the tree (on the left of the same tree is HIGH JINKS). Ascend the crack into the recess and climb up the right corner of the recess until blocked by large chockstones. Move right by using small but rough footholds on the face and up and around to the ledge.

2. 30m 16 Grovel and grot for 12m to the bottom of a corner to the right side of the arete in HIGH JINKS. Hand jam up the crack 2m to the right of the corner. After 3m move left into the corner and then up on good holds until a prominent nose is reached. Move left and onto the nose and then up easy rock on the left of the arete to the top blocks.

Start at the gray end of the face 7m upstream of 'Cedarberg Traverse' (the tree roots a few meters from the swimming pool).

1. [17] 20m

   From directly below the face climb up onto ledge (3m). Climb the roots and then move diagonally right into recess. Traverse 2m right and then up for 3m to awkward ledge. Move back 3m to good stance.

2. [24] 20m

   Start 3m right of 'Auspice' . Climb steep root into left facing open book. Continue up greasy corner to small overlap. Move right round corner and up to another small overhang. Make short move left and up to join the final right traverse of 'Auspice' (good jams). Make tricky moves up right to stance in the base of the left facing corner.

3. [23] 25m

   Continue up pink corner and then straight up orange rock for 5m to a good rail. Move left to good jams and good gear. Finish off up "V" at left end of rail.

Start from same tree at bottom right hand corner of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG face.

1. 25m 10 Follow thin indentation diagonally up right to ledge. Traverse around nose into open book, then climb right hand side of open book to large stance 6m up.

2. 15m 8 Follow chimney diagonally left to 2 small trees, then traverse right onto nose. Climb a few metres on nose then traverse back into crack. Ascend brown rock to tree belay.

3. 8m 11 A scramble up gap to right side of tree leads to slab which is climbed on right hand side.

On the True Left side, 3m right of THE CRACK, downstream of the wormhole, opposite a good swimming pool is a cave. The route takes the obvious corner and face above at the right hand edge of the cave.

1. 16, 25m Climb the short recess on the right of the cave until able to step across left into the shallow dihedral with finger crack. Climb the dihedral and finger crack to below an overlap. Some fun reachy moves take you through the overlap to a small ledge. Climb the short face on your left to the upper ledge with a comfy tree belay.

Notes:

1. Stick to the face on the left after the mid height ledge, going right is super easy and no fun at all.

A higher-quality alternative top pitch to GOLDEN BALLS. Start at the small tree belay.

1. 30m 20 Ascend the easy crack 3m left of the GOLDEN BALLS corner crack for 10m to a ledge. A diagonal break tends right across the wall above. Climb the break, with the crux low down, and continue directly up the wall to a blocky ledge. Step 2m left and follow an easy corner to a tree belay.

Note:

Excellent climbing. The first 5m of the diagonal break is not over-protected.

Start as for 'Sorrento' .

1. [13] 10m

   Mantle shelf onto ledge, climb up in corner and traverse left to a large flat (and wet) ledge. Belay on right hand side.

2. [20] 12m

   Slide over to the left hand side of the ledge and climb up left to a ledge beneath the overhanging wall (piton in place). Climb the wall from the right hand end of the ledge, using 2 or 3 nuts for aid, to a grassy ledge.

3. [13] 20m

   Traverse left along the ledge, and climb up to a broken open book recess, which is ascended to a large slabby ledge.

4. [17] 25m

   Climb up the steep wall to the left of the white root (strenuous), and up over easier pleasant rock to stance at base of slightly overhanging wall.

5. [15] 25m

   Move around the right hand end of the wall and climb up a short way in the corner. Move out left and around onto a ledge above the wall, which is traversed left to a V-shaped chimney capped by an overhang. Climb this to reach the top.

Note:

The first two pitches can be combined. From the top of pitch 2 one can climb up right in a large recess (8), then scramble up to the top. One can also scramble off from the top of the following pitches, but then, if you feel like we do, you'll climb. Pitch 2 may go free, especially now that some of the vegetation has been cleared.

Variation:

5a. 14m 21 Instead of moving right, continue straight up the overhanging wall utilising the obvious cracks (strenuous). Continue up to the base of the V-shaped chimney mentioned in pitch 5. Climb the chimney to the top.

Starts in FROG GULLY 7m to the right of AERODYNAMICS. Scramble up 5m to large cubbyhole at base of route (cairn).

1. 15m 19 Climb up steep grooves on back of cubbyhole-recess until they close up necessitating wide bridging to reach tree.

2. 20m 15 Straddle up to base of chimney and wriggle to top (strenuous).

Start from the same ledge as 'The Thin White Duke'.

1. [23] 20m

   Climb diagonally left up undercut face and then up and leftwards past a bolt and continue to a ledge. Gear a little sparse on this pitch.

2. [21] 15m

   Continue up and through the roof and follow the thin crack up the face above.

The climb is just about opposite Frog Gully and starts up 'Doggle'. Start as for 'Doggle', pull into the white corner (high nut), exit it, to easy layback slab rests, then move left to a huge loose looking white jug and more shaking to prepare. Move up the chunky arete to a flat hand-shelf, then forge on up the headwall on slopy jugs moving left to last gear in a finger-sized horizontal break (helluva pumpy to place, small cam and nut) then some more hard moves on fingers to reach left to a big hidden undercling far out left, then way run-out grabbing of semi jugs and the finishing jugs.

Climbs the face with 1 bolt 5-10m left of 'Strange Days' .

Note:

Bolt replaced in 2005

Start 6m left of 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [22] 20m

   Ascend a short steep crack to a niche below the overhang (3m). Pull around this, and continue up the crack above (strenuous) to a block, which is surmounted (strenuous). Traverse left 3m and up to a niche (alternatively climb straight up from block). Hand-traverse right, mantelshelf, and climb the crack above ( 'Cedarberg Recess' 15 variation) to a large ledge and belay.

2. [17] 25m

   Move left and up 3m then swing up onto the arete using sharp hold and into the base of a groove. Ascend the groove and then an awkward move out left below the overhang, then up a bulge and right to the top.

This route starts from the same shelf as TIGATRIX and ARRABELLA-MELLA. Scramble up on to the shelf from just downstream of FROG GULLY. Walk downstream along the shelf. 10m right of ARRABELLA-MELLA is an upstream facing corner, at the point where the shelf finishes. 1m left of the corner is a crack which runs up to a small roof at 6m. Start at the base of this crack.

1. 20m 18 Climb the crack and gain the shelf below the small roof with difficulty. Move 1m left and hence gain the continuation crack in the small corner. Follow this to easier ground above and hence a stout tree. Rap off this, back to the shelf.

"Beware ... the Under Toad."

Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of SIDEWALK. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.

1. 35m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.

2. 20m 19,A1 Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.

3. 25m 10 Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.

Essentially a variation to the last pitch of 'Agonising Hands' .

1. [25] 25m Follow the line of 2 pegs to the left of the last pitch of 'Agonising Hands' and then go up the "V" groove above.

The route takes the open book which forms the back of the deep recess opposite RED FALCON CRAG. The objective is the clean slab high above the book.

1. 35m 15,R1 Climb up under the roof capping the cave at the back of the gully. A lot of broken loose rock. Use the tree root to avoid the loose stuff and break out right under the roof to gain the book above. Ascend the book to the grassy stone with large detached blocks at the base of the ramp.

2. 35m 18 Start under the prominent crack system bisecting the slab. Move diagonally up left to a good handrail (and some gear). Rail right to gain the base of the crack system. Climb up the crack until it peters out, thrutching through a small tree in the process. Rail right to gain a small open book, the right wall of which faces upstream. Gain the book, with some difficulty and climb up to the sloping stance at the top with a small tree and chicken head.

Note:

The R1 means "liberal use of root". The second pitch is good slab climbing. The rails are foot holdless.

This is a fully bolted sport climb. Start at the first bolt which is more a few meters downstream and opposite 'Frog Gully' . The bolt is a few meters downstream of a prominent upstream facing open book ('Suicide') at river level.

1. [27] 35m

   Foreplay: Step off ledge above river to clip bolt. Move diagonally right past next bolt and climb crack above to cubby hole. Up steep bulge and onto easier ground. Move diagonally right about 5m into corner below roof. Pull through roof at corner on right and up into leftwards trending crack system. Exit onto ledge system at same level as end of the 'Boggle' first pitch.

2. [27] 10m

   The bit in the middle: Climb through the roof above sharing the stance with pitch 2 of 'Boggle' . There are chains here.

3. [27] 20m

   Afterglow: Climb the bolted line on the wall above.