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금요일 6번째 10월 2023 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm West
6b Echo der Zeit - 누구와 Sophie
1 6a 30 Second ~에 의해 선등된 Sophie
2 5c 25 스포츠 클라이밍 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
3 5c 40 Second ~에 의해 선등된 Sophie
4 6b 40 스포츠 클라이밍 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
5 6b 30 스포츠 클라이밍 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
6 6a 40 스포츠 클라이밍 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten

falsche Linie erwischt

스포츠 클라이밍 210m 아주좋음
Torsten
1.SL im Schatten, ziemlich kalt, Crux hoch antreten und durchbeissen;

4.&5.SL pumpig an Rissen und Löchern

6.SL falsche Linie erwischt, man muss der Hakenlinie gerade rauf folgen

 
일요일 제 1 10월 2023 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
6b Höhlenweg
1 4b 60m Second
2 5c+ 10m 전통등반
3 6b 35m Second
4 4c 40m 전통등반
5 6a 20m Second
6 6a 30m 전통등반
7 5b 35m Second
8 5c 40m 전통등반
9 5c 35m Second
10 5c+ 20m 전통등반
11 6a 30m Second
전통등반 360m 아주좋음
Anna
Unten eher brüchig, oben sehr guter Fels

 
일요일 10번째 9월 2023 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
5c+ 쉬움 Meriba - 누구와 S
1 5c+ 스포츠 클라이밍
2 5c+ 스포츠 클라이밍
3 5c 스포츠 클라이밍
4 5c 스포츠 클라이밍
5 4b Second
스포츠 클라이밍 160m, 12 좋음
mike
Nice "rest day"-climb. Rope drag may be an issue, sometimes it's better to belay on top of the previous pitch than getting to the bolted belay.

  1. Getting to first bolt is not super straight forward. LatertThin and well protected crux.

  2. A bit easier. Watch for rope drag when approaching next belay.

  3. Easier than advertised, but you need to watch out for loose rock here or there.

  4. Nice pitch with two thin cruxes. Felt harder than pitches 2 and 3, similar to first. Hardest part was getting your shoes dry from the mud at the start of the pitch. Grassy exit.

  5. Slab with jugs, then arete, then bushwhack. Probably better to belay at a tree than to fight through the bushes to get to the bolts.

 
수요일 23번째 8월 2023 - Bockmattli
Foehrenturm
6 쉬움 Alte Nordwand - 누구와 Maurice
1 4 40 Second ~에 의해 선등된 Maurice
2 5 30 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Tim
3 5 35 Second ~에 의해 선등된 Maurice
4 6 30 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Tim
5 6 33 Second ~에 의해 선등된 Maurice
6 5+ 33 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Tim
7 5+ 40 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Tim
전통등반 240m 평균
Tim
Auf der Website des SAC beschrieben mit „Bohrhaken in regelmäßigen Abständen“ - das ist ein bisschen Quatsch. Teilweise lange run-outs und nicht immer offensichtlich Routenführung (Stand am Ende der der 4. SL ziemlich versteckt). Viele Seillängen am Anfang und Ende von Gras durchzogen. Zwischendurch aber immer wieder einige Passagen fantastischer Kletterei an Wasserrinnen. Nur für abenteuerhungrige KletterInnen mit starkem Kopf sind Friends fakultativ.

 
수요일 19번째 7월 2023 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
5a Namenlose Kante - 누구와 MSC 전통등반 310m
Herbert
6 Seillänge speckig, etwas moralisch

 
수요일 12번째 7월 2023 - Bockmattli
Ostturm
7a+ 어려움 Trubadur 전통등반
Erich Ruetsche
I did the first ascent many years ago and was very satisfied that the climb is in good shape and grading stood the test of time. There is are a few 3 pitches that go straight before the travers pitch.

 
일요일 11번째 6월 2023 - Bockmattli
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
5c+ Ostpfeiler - 누구와 Micha Gurtner, Nicole, Simon
1 5c 50m 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
2 4c 50m Second ~에 의해 선등된 Micha Gurtner
3 5c 50m 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten

Expressen stark verlängern - sonst sehr starker Seilzug

4 5a 45m Second ~에 의해 선등된 Micha Gurtner
5 4a 50m 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
6 4c 45m Second ~에 의해 선등된 Micha Gurtner
7 5b 45m Second ~에 의해 선등된 Micha Gurtner
8 5c+ 30m 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
9 4c 45m Second ~에 의해 선등된 Micha Gurtner
10 4c 45m 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
11 4b 45m Second ~에 의해 선등된 Micha Gurtner
12 4a 50m 전통등반 ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
전통등반 550m 아주좋음
Torsten
Wiederholungsbedürftiges alpines Abenteuer! 06:30 Start am Brügglerparkplatz 07:30 Einstieg in Route 16:00 Ausstieg am Gipfel dann Abstieg über den Südgrat (wird definitiv zeitlich unterschätzt!) und Gross Chälen 21:00 zurück am Brügglerparkplatz

 
일요일 19번째 6월 2022 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm Nord
6+ Alte Nordwand - 누구와 Julian
1 4 35m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
2 6+ 15m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
3 5- 30m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
4 5 30m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
5 4 40m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
6 2 10m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
7 3 50m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
8 4- 45m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
9 3+ 45m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
10 4 45m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
11 3 20m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
전통등반 370m 아주좋음
Torsten
Supertour in nicht immer festem Fels mit 2 sehr schönen Abschlussseillängen - Klettergenuss ohne dass die Route durchgebohrt ist.

 
일요일 29번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli
Westpfeiler
6a+ Westpfeiler - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein 전통등반 240m 클래식
Beat
Toller Kamin und glatte Verschneidung in der Schlüsselseillänge! Teilweise kombinierbar mit den Längen der Südwand (6c+).

 
토요일 28번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
6b Höhlenweg - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein
1 4b 60 전통등반
2 5c+ 10 전통등반
3 6b 35 전통등반
4 4c 40 전통등반
5 6a 20 전통등반
6 6a 30 전통등반
전통등반 200m 클래식
Beat
  • SL Zustieg über nasses Gras (bei Nässe sehr ungemütlich)

  • SL rechts und dann hoch in die Höhle, nicht dran vorbei!

  • SL Super Querung aus der Höhle! Athletisch an Henkeln!

  • SL Einfache Aufschwünge

  • & 6. SL zusammen nehmen: Komplexere vertikale Verschneidungskletterei

  • ab 7. SL leider in die Namenlose Kante gewechselt, da obere Verscheneidung nass. Dafür am 6. Stand (in Höhle) nach links queren.

     
    금요일 27번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli
    Klein Bockmattliturm West
    6b Echo der Zeit - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein 스포츠 클라이밍 3200m 완전 구식
    Beat
    Wahnsinnig schöne Route! Die ersten beiden SL zusammennehmen (1. ist die schwierigste der ganzen MSL), direkt hoch bis zur grossen Föhre. In der 4. (bzw. 3. wenn die ersten zwei zsm) nicht links sondern rechts halten! Sonst kommt der Frick am Strick mit 7a+. Diese SL ist genial mit langen Zügen an Henkeln. 5. SL ist ein pumpiger Riss und die 6. eine (bei uns nasse) Verschneidung. Vom Level und Stil gut mit “Al Kappone” kombinierbar - beim Abstieg läuft man direkt an deren Einstieg.

     
    목요일 26번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli
    Klein Bockmattliturm Sued
    6a+ Al Koppone - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein 스포츠 클라이밍 65m 클래식
    Beat
  • SL Platte

  • SL Riss mit etwas wenig Bolts

  • SL lange Züge an Henkeln

  • Sehr gut mit “Echo der Zeit” kompinierbar. Danach noch auf den Turm aufsteigen und den Abstieg vorher anschauen (nicht ganz trivial).

     
    목요일 26번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli
    Klein Bockmattliturm West
    5c+ Westwändli - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein 혼합 고전등반 200m, 29 아주좋음
    Beat
    Sehr harte Aufwärmseillänge (definitiv mehr als 5a). Die Linie folgt den Schwachstellen der Wand. Viele Föhren und teilweise grasig. Die Schlüsselstelle ist ein paraleller Riss mit grossen (und bei uns nassen) Untergriffen. Das Highlight ist die letzte SL mit einem grossen Klemmblock.

     
    금요일 20번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli
    Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
    6a Nordwestwand - 누구와 Patrick Zumsteg 전통등반 260m 아주좋음
    Beat
    Feiner Einsteig. Dann viele Verschneidungen (4x 5b bis 5c+). Querung 6a SL und direkt darauffolgende 5b sehr schön. Oben dann einfacher auf dem Grat.

     
    토요일 23번째 10월 2021 - Bockmattli
    Klein Bockmattliturm West
    6a Westwändli (Westwändli Linkup Echo der Zeit)
    1 5a 200m
    2 3a
    3 2a
    4 4b
    5 5c+
    6 4b
    7 3c
    8 6a 링크 업 Echo der Zeit
    혼합 고전등반 200m, 29
    Marcel
    Ausstieg über Echo der Zeit (letzte SL)

     
    토요일 18번째 9월 2021 - Bockmattli
    Namenloser Turm
    6b Höhlenweg - 누구와 Julian
    1 4b 60m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
    2 5c+ 10m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    3 6b 35m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
    4 4c 40m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    5 6a 20m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
    6 6a 30m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    7 5b 35m ~에 의해 선등된 Julian
    8 5c 40m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    9 5c 35m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    10 5c+ 20m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    11 6a 30m ~에 의해 선등된 Torsten
    전통등반 360m 아주좋음
    Torsten
    ambitionierte alpin abgesicherte Route, in der schwierigen 6b-Passage stecken genug Haken zum Nullen, die anderen SL sind mit weiten Hakenabständen versehen, egal wie schwer, dh. definitiv KK&Friends mitnehmen!

     
    6b Höhlenweg - 누구와 Jo
    1 4b
    2 5c+
    3 6b
    4 4c
    5 6a
    6 6a
    7 5b
    8 5c
    9 5c
    10 5c+
    11 6a
    전통등반 360m 좋음
    mike
  • The first pitch should be considered part of the approach. It's one of the ugliest, wettest, dirtiest and sketchiest pieces of c*** that I ever climbed. 50m ropes did not suffice to reach the first belay. There is a wet fixed rope that helps through the upper part. Even with that fixed rope, leading this pitch is quite sketchy as there is no viable possibility for protection. Oh yeah: extend your quickdraws!

  • Don't follow the bolts to the right - just take the first two, belay is in the cave.

  • Nice and very well protected crux. Pitch traverses to the left with a few moves around 6a between the bolts.

  • Easy chimney and arête

  • Steep, well protected lay-backing. Sustained but short pitch

  • One well protected crux move.

  • Very narrow chimney, then crumbly and easy arête. Annoying with backpack.

  • The remaining four pitches more or less follow the obvious dihedral. #8 is not very steep. The rock in these pitches is layered diagonally, which may make some moves non-obvious, difficult and/or awkward.

  • Probably one of the nicest pitches. Very solid rock, jugs. Beautiful red lichen on the rocks.

  • I had to lead this after my partner was not confident to do that one move above a small ledge where the first bolt is placed. At the top you must not follow the steep dihedral on the left, but you'll have to go right (no more pro) through easier terrain to reach the final belay.

  • My partner really struggled with this pitch. Especially one move near the top on a good undercling with only tiny footholds is tough to do - and has to be done above the last piton(!) and just before reaching the next bolt.

  • All in all the route has a few very nice pitches, some traverses, lots of dihedrals. Bolts may be quite spaced, we had to use slings and BD Camalot 0.3 and 0.4 several times. We did not bring larger cams, they could have been useful in the last couple of pitches.

    Route-finding is not always easy - the week before a rope-team got lost and needed to be rescued! So be sure to double-check the topo!

     
    토요일 26번째 6월 2021 - Bockmattli
    Namenloser Turm
    5c+ Meriba (Meriba P1) - 누구와 Dani KO
    1 5c+ ~에 의해 선등된 Miriam
    스포츠 클라이밍 160m, 12
    Miriam
    Route noch nass, daher Abseilen nach 1. Seillänge

     
    5c+ Meriba (Meriba P1) - 누구와 Miriam
    1 5c+ ~에 의해 선등된 Miriam
    스포츠 클라이밍 160m, 12
    Dani KO
    Route war noch Nass. Abbruch nach 1. SL

     
    월요일 24번째 8월 2020 - Bockmattli
    Westpfeiler
    6c+ Südwand - 누구와 Tobias Bahmer
    1 6a ~에 의해 선등된 Max Kaltenbrunner
    2 6c+ ~에 의해 선등된 Tobias Bahmer
    3 6c ~에 의해 선등된 Max Kaltenbrunner
    4 5b ~에 의해 선등된 Tobias Bahmer
    5 5c+ ~에 의해 선등된 Max Kaltenbrunner
    6 4c ~에 의해 선등된 Tobias Bahmer
    전통등반
    Max Kaltenbrunner
    What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!

     
    목요일 9번째 4월 2020 - Bockmattli
    Namenloser Turm
    5b Namenlose Kante - 누구와 Miriam
    1 3c ~에 의해 선등된 Dani KO
    2 4b ~에 의해 선등된 Miriam
    3 4b ~에 의해 선등된 Dani KO
    4 3b ~에 의해 선등된 Miriam
    5 5a ~에 의해 선등된 Dani KO
    6 4c ~에 의해 선등된 Miriam
    7 5b ~에 의해 선등된 Dani KO
    8 4c ~에 의해 선등된 Miriam
    9 3c ~에 의해 선등된 Dani KO
    전통등반 310m
    Dani KO
    Klassiker

     
    월요일 23번째 3월 2020 - Bockmattli
    Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
    6c+ A1 Supertramp 전통등반 클래식
    Müller Lukas
    Linie nicht sofort offensichtlich, aber dann äußerst logische Linienführung, elegante plattige kletterei! Solid for the grade;)

     
    토요일 13번째 7월 2019 - Bockmattli
    Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
    5a Clean Climb Trip - 누구와 Nino
    1 3 100m
    2 5a
    전통등반 100m
    Dani KO
    Abbruch weil nicht genug grosse Friends... We will return!

     
    토요일 26번째 5월 2018 - Bockmattli
    Klein Bockmattliturm Nord
    5b Alte Nordwand
    1 4a 35 ~에 의해 선등된 Johnny Venga
    2 5b 45
    3 5b 30 ~에 의해 선등된 Johnny Venga
    4 4b 40 ~에 의해 선등된 Johnny Venga
    5 3b 50
    6 4b 45 ~에 의해 선등된 Johnny Venga
    7 4a 45
    8 5b 45 ~에 의해 선등된 Johnny Venga
    9 3a 30
    전통등반 370m 좋음
    Johnny Venga
    Alpine style

     
    일요일 28번째 5월 2017 - Bockmattli
    Foehrenturm
    5c+ 6 Alte Nordwand - 누구와 Eli 전통등반 240m 아주좋음
    Coto
    Teilweise weite Hakenabstände, teilweise brüchig, unbedingt Friends mitnehmen

     
    월요일 5번째 9월 2016 - Bockmattli
    Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
    6b Jenelana - 누구와 Johannes
    1 6b ~에 의해 선등된 Me
    2 6a+ ~에 의해 선등된 Me
    4
    5
    스포츠 클라이밍 아주좋음
    Axel Dahlberg
    Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!

     
    6b Andromeda - 누구와 Johannes 전통등반 아주좋음
    Axel Dahlberg
    Pretty scary without trad-gear.

     
    일요일 4번째 9월 2016 - Bockmattli
    Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
    6b Jenelana - 누구와 Axel Dahlberg
    1 6b ~에 의해 선등된 Me
    2 6a+ ~에 의해 선등된 Me
    3
    4
    스포츠 클라이밍 아주좋음
    Johannes
    Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!

     
    토요일 제 1 5월 2010 - Bockmattli
    Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
    6b Andromeda - 누구와 Mirko 전통등반 아주좋음
    Nicky
    date?

     
    토요일 제 1 5월 2010 - Bockmattli
    Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
    6a+ Direkte Nordwand - 누구와 Mirko 전통등반 430m 아주좋음
    Nicky
    date?

     

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