모든 {수} {대상들} 보이기
등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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금요일 6번째 10월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm West | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Echo der Zeit - 누구와 Sophie | 210m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
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일요일 제 1 10월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
6b |
★★ Höhlenweg
1
4b
60m
2
5c+
10m
3
6b
35m
4
4c
40m
5
6a
20m
6
6a
30m
7
5b
35m
8
5c
40m
9
5c
35m
10
5c+
20m
11
6a
30m
| 360m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Unten eher brüchig, oben sehr guter Fels
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일요일 10번째 9월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
5c+ 쉬움 |
★★ Meriba
- 누구와
S
1
5c+
2
5c+
3
5c
4
5c
5
4b
| 160m, 12 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Nice "rest day"-climb. Rope drag may be an issue, sometimes it's better to belay on top of the previous pitch than getting to the bolted belay.
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수요일 23번째 8월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Foehrenturm | |||||||
6 쉬움 | ★ Alte Nordwand - 누구와 Maurice | 240m | 평균 | ||||
Auf der Website des SAC beschrieben mit „Bohrhaken in regelmäßigen Abständen“ - das ist ein bisschen Quatsch. Teilweise lange run-outs und nicht immer offensichtlich Routenführung (Stand am Ende der der 4. SL ziemlich versteckt). Viele Seillängen am Anfang und Ende von Gras durchzogen. Zwischendurch aber immer wieder einige Passagen fantastischer Kletterei an Wasserrinnen. Nur für abenteuerhungrige KletterInnen mit starkem Kopf sind Friends fakultativ.
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수요일 19번째 7월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
5a | ★★ Namenlose Kante - 누구와 MSC | 310m | |||||
6 Seillänge speckig, etwas moralisch
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수요일 12번째 7월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Ostturm | |||||||
7a+ 어려움 | Trubadur | ||||||
I did the first ascent many years ago and was very satisfied that the climb is in good shape and grading stood the test of time. There is are a few 3 pitches that go straight before the travers pitch.
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일요일 11번째 6월 2023 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||||
5c+ |
★★ Ostpfeiler
- 누구와
Micha Gurtner, Nicole, Simon
| 550m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Wiederholungsbedürftiges alpines Abenteuer!
06:30 Start am Brügglerparkplatz
07:30 Einstieg in Route
16:00 Ausstieg am Gipfel
dann Abstieg über den Südgrat (wird definitiv zeitlich unterschätzt!) und Gross Chälen
21:00 zurück am Brügglerparkplatz
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일요일 19번째 6월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Alte Nordwand - 누구와 Julian | 370m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Supertour in nicht immer festem Fels mit 2 sehr schönen Abschlussseillängen - Klettergenuss ohne dass die Route durchgebohrt ist.
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일요일 29번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Westpfeiler | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Westpfeiler - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein | 240m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Toller Kamin und glatte Verschneidung in der Schlüsselseillänge! Teilweise kombinierbar mit den Längen der Südwand (6c+).
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토요일 28번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
6b |
★★ Höhlenweg
- 누구와
Annabarbara Beilstein
1
4b
60
2
5c+
10
3
6b
35
4
4c
40
5
6a
20
6
6a
30
| 200m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
SL Zustieg über nasses Gras (bei Nässe sehr ungemütlich) SL rechts und dann hoch in die Höhle, nicht dran vorbei! SL Super Querung aus der Höhle! Athletisch an Henkeln! SL Einfache Aufschwünge & 6. SL zusammen nehmen: Komplexere vertikale Verschneidungskletterei ab 7. SL leider in die Namenlose Kante gewechselt, da obere Verscheneidung nass. Dafür am 6. Stand (in Höhle) nach links queren. |
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금요일 27번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm West | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Echo der Zeit - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein | 3200m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Wahnsinnig schöne Route! Die ersten beiden SL zusammennehmen (1. ist die schwierigste der ganzen MSL), direkt hoch bis zur grossen Föhre. In der 4. (bzw. 3. wenn die ersten zwei zsm) nicht links sondern rechts halten! Sonst kommt der Frick am Strick mit 7a+. Diese SL ist genial mit langen Zügen an Henkeln. 5. SL ist ein pumpiger Riss und die 6. eine (bei uns nasse) Verschneidung. Vom Level und Stil gut mit “Al Kappone” kombinierbar - beim Abstieg läuft man direkt an deren Einstieg.
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목요일 26번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm Sued | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Al Koppone - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein | 65m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
SL Platte SL Riss mit etwas wenig Bolts SL lange Züge an Henkeln Sehr gut mit “Echo der Zeit” kompinierbar. Danach noch auf den Turm aufsteigen und den Abstieg vorher anschauen (nicht ganz trivial). |
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목요일 26번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm West | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Westwändli - 누구와 Annabarbara Beilstein | 200m, 29 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Sehr harte Aufwärmseillänge (definitiv mehr als 5a). Die Linie folgt den Schwachstellen der Wand. Viele Föhren und teilweise grasig. Die Schlüsselstelle ist ein paraleller Riss mit grossen (und bei uns nassen) Untergriffen. Das Highlight ist die letzte SL mit einem grossen Klemmblock.
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금요일 20번째 5월 2022 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||||
6a | ★★ Nordwestwand - 누구와 Patrick Zumsteg | 260m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Feiner Einsteig. Dann viele Verschneidungen (4x 5b bis 5c+). Querung 6a SL und direkt darauffolgende 5b sehr schön. Oben dann einfacher auf dem Grat.
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토요일 23번째 10월 2021 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm West | |||||||
6a |
★★ Westwändli (Westwändli Linkup Echo der Zeit)
1
5a
200m
2
3a
3
2a
4
4b
5
5c+
6
4b
7
3c
8
6a
링크 업 Echo der Zeit
| 200m, 29 | |||||
Ausstieg über Echo der Zeit (letzte SL)
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토요일 18번째 9월 2021 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
6b | ★★ Höhlenweg - 누구와 Julian | 360m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
ambitionierte alpin abgesicherte Route, in der schwierigen 6b-Passage stecken genug Haken zum Nullen, die anderen SL sind mit weiten Hakenabständen versehen, egal wie schwer, dh. definitiv KK&Friends mitnehmen!
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6b |
★★ Höhlenweg
- 누구와
Jo
1
4b
2
5c+
3
6b
4
4c
5
6a
6
6a
7
5b
8
5c
9
5c
10
5c+
11
6a
| 360m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
The first pitch should be considered part of the approach. It's one of the ugliest, wettest, dirtiest and sketchiest pieces of c*** that I ever climbed. 50m ropes did not suffice to reach the first belay. There is a wet fixed rope that helps through the upper part. Even with that fixed rope, leading this pitch is quite sketchy as there is no viable possibility for protection. Oh yeah: extend your quickdraws! Don't follow the bolts to the right - just take the first two, belay is in the cave. Nice and very well protected crux. Pitch traverses to the left with a few moves around 6a between the bolts. Easy chimney and arête Steep, well protected lay-backing. Sustained but short pitch One well protected crux move. Very narrow chimney, then crumbly and easy arête. Annoying with backpack. The remaining four pitches more or less follow the obvious dihedral. #8 is not very steep. The rock in these pitches is layered diagonally, which may make some moves non-obvious, difficult and/or awkward. Probably one of the nicest pitches. Very solid rock, jugs. Beautiful red lichen on the rocks. I had to lead this after my partner was not confident to do that one move above a small ledge where the first bolt is placed. At the top you must not follow the steep dihedral on the left, but you'll have to go right (no more pro) through easier terrain to reach the final belay. My partner really struggled with this pitch. Especially one move near the top on a good undercling with only tiny footholds is tough to do - and has to be done above the last piton(!) and just before reaching the next bolt. All in all the route has a few very nice pitches, some traverses, lots of dihedrals. Bolts may be quite spaced, we had to use slings and BD Camalot 0.3 and 0.4 several times. We did not bring larger cams, they could have been useful in the last couple of pitches. Route-finding is not always easy - the week before a rope-team got lost and needed to be rescued! So be sure to double-check the topo! |
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토요일 26번째 6월 2021 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
5c+ |
★★ Meriba (Meriba P1)
- 누구와
Dani KO
| 160m, 12 | |||||
Route noch nass, daher Abseilen nach 1. Seillänge
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5c+ |
★★ Meriba (Meriba P1)
- 누구와
Miriam
| 160m, 12 | |||||
Route war noch Nass.
Abbruch nach 1. SL
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월요일 24번째 8월 2020 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Westpfeiler | |||||||
6c+ |
Südwand
- 누구와
Tobias Bahmer
2
6c+
~에 의해 선등된
Tobias Bahmer
4
5b
~에 의해 선등된
Tobias Bahmer
6
4c
~에 의해 선등된
Tobias Bahmer
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What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!
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목요일 9번째 4월 2020 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Namenloser Turm | |||||||
5b | ★★ Namenlose Kante - 누구와 Miriam | 310m | |||||
Klassiker
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월요일 23번째 3월 2020 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||||
6c+ A1 | ★★★ Supertramp | ★★★ 클래식 | |||||
Linie nicht sofort offensichtlich, aber dann äußerst logische Linienführung, elegante plattige kletterei! Solid for the grade;)
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토요일 13번째 7월 2019 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch | |||||||
5a |
Clean Climb Trip
- 누구와
Nino
1
3
100m
2
5a
| 100m | |||||
Abbruch weil nicht genug grosse Friends... We will return!
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토요일 26번째 5월 2018 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Klein Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||||
5b |
★★ Alte Nordwand
2
5b
45
5
3b
50
7
4a
45
9
3a
30
| 370m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Alpine style
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일요일 28번째 5월 2017 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Foehrenturm | |||||||
5c+ 6 | ★ Alte Nordwand - 누구와 Eli | 240m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Teilweise weite Hakenabstände, teilweise brüchig, unbedingt Friends mitnehmen
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월요일 5번째 9월 2016 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch | |||||||
6b |
★★ Jenelana
- 누구와
Johannes
1
6b
~에 의해 선등된
Me
2
6a+
~에 의해 선등된
Me
4
5
| ★★ 아주좋음 | |||||
Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!
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6b | ★★ Andromeda - 누구와 Johannes | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||||
Pretty scary without trad-gear.
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일요일 4번째 9월 2016 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch | |||||||
6b |
★★ Jenelana
- 누구와
Axel Dahlberg
1
6b
~에 의해 선등된
Me
2
6a+
~에 의해 선등된
Me
3
4
| ★★ 아주좋음 | |||||
Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!
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토요일 제 1 5월 2010 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch | |||||||
6b | ★★ Andromeda - 누구와 Mirko | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||||
date?
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토요일 제 1 5월 2010 - Bockmattli | |||||||
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Direkte Nordwand - 누구와 Mirko | 430m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
date?
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모든 {수} {대상들} 보이기
4.&5.SL pumpig an Rissen und Löchern
6.SL falsche Linie erwischt, man muss der Hakenlinie gerade rauf folgen