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Unknown
6a Homer Vs PlayDoh
미상 9m, 4 Koh Tao
6b+ the girls route 미상 30m Koh Ladin
6c the blob route 미상 30m Koh Ladin
7b no way jose 미상 20m Koh Pak Bia
7c+ kung fu conection 미상 20m Koh Pak Bia
7a+ the oven mitt 미상 25m Koh Pak Bia
7b+ Ug 미상 15m Koh Lao Liang
8a Sea Gypsy 미상 50m Koh Ma Tang Ming
6c+ Dead Calm 미상 45m Koh Poda
Traverse
Approach from the sea

There are two main points of entrance to the network of trails.

The left beach entrance, find the fig tree that protrudes the furthest towards the water to find the trail head. Hike straight uphill for 5 minutes and you'll find the signed crossroad (Lat 8.177908; Lon 98.63647).

  1. Left path: leads to Hongkong, Breakfast, Bee, and Dump walls and finally to Ao Nui Tower (in that order).

  2. Uphill path: to the Mitt. Follow the fixed lines straight up to the left side of the Mitt.

  3. Right path: leads to Bone, HD, and Big Tree walls (in that order).

The right beach entrance can be identified by a large fallen tree strub at the beach marking the trail head. Head uphill and to the right for 5-10 minutes to find a crossing right under the Bone and HD walls (Lat 8.177327; Lon 98.637785).

  1. Left path: to the Mitt. Climb a log ladder (careful) at the very end to reach the right side of the Mitt.

  2. Path straight: to the HD and Big Tree walls (in that order).

횡단 Koh Yao Noi
Approach from land

Starting from the Breakfast wall, you can head left to Bee and Dump walls, and finally Ao Pui Tower. To the right a trail downhill begins. About 10 meters from the wall take a left at the fork (not obvious: Lat 8.177874; Lon 98.635515). Stay somewhat close to the wall you'll come across a faded red sprayed rock reading Hong wall. Red spray paint arrows guide you through the (obvious) trail to the signed crossroad (Lat 8.177908; Lon 98.63647).

  1. Left (uphill) path: to the Mitt. Follow the fixed lines straight up to the lef side of the Mitt.

  2. Straight path: leads to Bone, HD, and Big Tree walls (in that order). Head towards the crossing under Bone and HD walls (Lat 8.177327; Lon 98.637785).

  3. Right (downhill) path: takes you to the beach.

횡단 Koh Yao Noi
HD / Big Tree from sea (direct)

In the furthest corner of the beach find the big tree stump (might be gone at some point) and follow the jungle trail behind it. About 10 min down the trail you will arrive at Bone Wall (closed) and HD Wall around the corner. Continue along the cliff for another 10 min or so along a few fixed ropes and two ladders to Big Tree wall. Beware of the rotting wooden ladder and choose your footing carefully!

Read "Approach from the sea" for more detailed info.

횡단 Koh Yao Noi
Breakfast/Bee/Dump to Big Tree Wall

Head east to the signed intersection. Keep going straight follow the faint trail until it merges with the track coming from the beach. Follow as per Big Tree approach description.

Read "Approach from land" for more detailed info.

횡단 Koh Yao Noi
Trad
6c Python
전통등반 Koh Tao
6b Jungle Glove
전통등반 Koh Tao
6c+ Beseiged
전통등반 Koh Tao
6c Come on Dave

PG

전통등반 Koh Tao
6b Human Frality
1 6a+ 20m
2 6a+ 22m
3 6b 20m
4 6b 30m

Trad climb, which was used to open 'Humanality'.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

전통등반 92m, 4 Ton Sai
5b Jam on Toast
전통등반 Koh Tao
5c Fractured
전통등반 Koh Tao
5b Travers

Travers from Commo Libre to Pinappel express. You need some trad grear for the rout.

혼합 고전등반 15m, 2 Prachuap Khiri Khan
5c Placebo Junction
전통등반 Koh Tao
5b Dislodged
전통등반 Koh Tao
5b Flake and Bake
전통등반 Koh Tao
5c Till we meet again (Trad 9 pitches)

First 4 pitches are sport and after that is Trad. You will need a rack of cams and nuts and slings.

Hard summit as heavy vegetation. Best to rap down same route but will rope has high potential of getting stuck.

전통등반 9 Khao Jeen Lae
6a+ Supercrackalicious
전통등반 18m Koh Tao
6a PROT:R Dave Bottled It
전통등반 Koh Tao
4c Peanut Gallery
전통등반 Koh Tao
5 The Roots Man!

Set: Ben Grasser, 2007

전통등반 21m Khao Jeen Lae
5c Kooha Sawan

Same anchor as Pratimakam.

Set: Kris Pattarasirin & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2005

전통등반 30m Khao Jeen Lae
6a+ Panoramas
1 6a+
2 6a+
3 6a

Mixed bolt and trad. Start from anchor of Chinese New Year.

전통등반 60m, 3 Phetchaburi
7a Meddles 전통등반 15m Kao Chum Thong
3 No Comments

Set: Ben Grasser, 2007

전통등반 7m Khao Jeen Lae
6b Trad Spotting
전통등반 Koh Tao
5 Blade Runner
1 5 30m
2 5 30m

No bolts. Trad climb.

Set: Tom Chamberian & Phil Motley, 1996

전통등반 60m, 2 Railay
3a Goatish Path
전통등반 15m Prachuap Khiri Khan
5c monkey trail
1 3 20m
2 5b 25m
3 5b 30m
4 5c 25m

Nice multipitch to the top of the mountain, 100m away from Machete Wall, if you reach the starting point, accent 20m to the first pitch, first part secured by fix rope, 1. pitch 25m, two slings, then travers 15m (fix rope, one sling), 2. pitch 30m, 3 slings, traverse 10m left, fix rope, 3. pitch 3 slings, starting at the big cave to the right, from there you can just reach the top of the mountain (hiking), descending back the same way.

Maint: luc siebeling, tim, Nils, Pierre & lutz, 3 6월 2021

전통등반시등 중 100m, 4 Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain
5c Afternoon Delights
전통등반 20m Koh Tao
6c Power Struggles
전통등반 Koh Tao
6a+ Granite Maiden
전통등반 Koh Tao
6b UK:E6 Bugger Your Neighbour
1 5c
2 6b
3 5c
4 6a
5 6a

Trad climb (E2, E5, E5, E4, E6), starting on the very right of 'Tiger Wall', into the obvious corner. See the 'Thailand and Laos Rock Climbing Guidebook' by Elke Schmitz (Basecamp Ton Sai) for a complete description.

Set: Patrick Hammond & Dan Smith, 1999

전통등반 140m, 5 Ton Sai
6a+ Jam On
전통등반 Koh Tao
{UIAA} 4+ Cross

This route for reach the top of first top rope.

FA: Ogun Kekul, 28 10월 2019

전통등반 Mae Win
6b Doing the Trad

Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook' and 'Right Hand of Buddha' to allow toprope access.

Set: Jim Yoder & Mark Miner, 1996

전통등반 15m Ton Sai
6b The Flying Farang
1 6b 20m
2 6b 30m
3 6b 40m
4 6a 27m
5 5 30m
6 5+ 28m
7 2+ 15m
  1. Obelisk.

  2. 30m (6b)

  3. 40m (6b)

  4. 27m (6a)

  5. 30m (5)

  6. 28m (5+) Beware of big loose rocks. Stay on the wall on the left.

  7. 15m (2+)

Abseil Descent on Corcovado on Left side of Wall.

Set: Ben Grasser & Jerome Chambard, 2007

전통등반 190m, 7 Khao Jeen Lae
4c Tree'd Up
전통등반 Koh Tao
5b The Nile of Denial
전통등반 Koh Tao
5c PROT:R The Need For Swede
전통등반 Koh Tao
6c Electric Crack

Leftmost line. No protection, use trad gear.

Set: J. L. Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

전통등반 25m Railay
6a+ Lightning Corner
전통등반 20m Koh Tao
Trad Route 전통등반 4 Koh Lao Liang
6a Tanote Multipitch
전통등반 Koh Tao
5b A
전통등반 Koh Tao
4 Arboreal

Set: Ben Grasser, 2007

전통등반 14m Khao Jeen Lae
5 Jungle Gym
1 4 25m
2 5 25m

No bolts. Trad climb.

Set: Dean Saydom & Somjit Ningwari, 1994

전통등반 50m, 2 Railay
6b+ Electric Crack (Variation)

Veers right about halfway of 'Electric Crack'. 3 old slings in the upper section. Bring trad gear!

Set: J. L. Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

혼합 고전등반 35m, 3 Railay
6c Pineapple express
1 4a 25m
2 5c 25m
3 6c
  1. 1st Pitch is trad you need some cams form the size of 0.5 to 3 at the upper level of the rout there is one bolt and a anchor.

  2. 2nd pitch is sport climbing not so sure how many bolts there are in the 2end pitch.

  3. 3rd pitch is a 6c

Set: Will & chris, 13 10월 2021

혼합 고전등반 50m, 3, 7 Prachuap Khiri Khan
5b Bitten Calf
전통등반 Prachuap Khiri Khan
5a Chin Splints
전통등반 Koh Tao
6a Rolling Thunder
전통등반 Koh Tao
6c Rabies
전통등반 Prachuap Khiri Khan
Top rope
6a+ Pocket-A-Hoy
톱로핑 Koh Tao
6b+ D
톱로핑 Koh Tao
6a Vegan Snake

Vegan Snake can only be climbed on top rope after the route next to it is climbed and a top rope is set.

NA: 1 2월 2022

톱로핑 Railay
5c Corner
톱로핑 Koh Tao
6b Give a Shit
톱로핑 Koh Tao
6b Ribbed For Her Pleasure

Left of 'Short and Easy'. No bolts. Climb on toprope.

Set: Cyro Glad, 1993

톱로핑 13m Railay
7a C U Next Tuesday
톱로핑 16m Koh Tao
6b Poker Face
톱로핑 Koh Tao
5 Mind over Matter

Shares anchors with 'Killer' and 'Lee Rong Hai'. No bolts, anchors only on rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Wee Changrua & Elke Schmitz, 2001

톱로핑 12m Railay
6c+ Son Of A Bitch
톱로핑 16m Koh Tao
7b/b+ The Font Project
톱로핑 Koh Tao
5c Heat Rations
톱로핑 14m Koh Tao
6a The Nose
톱로핑 Koh Tao
5c Crazy Damn Erk And Jerk
톱로핑 14m Koh Tao
6c Shakin' and Takin'
톱로핑 Koh Tao
5c Live Long and Prosper
톱로핑 Koh Tao
6a+ Broken But Not Beaten
톱로핑 14m Koh Tao
7a+/b The Real Tokay Project
톱로핑 Koh Tao
7b Under Klingon
톱로핑 14m Koh Tao
4 Easy Eagle
톱로핑 14m Koh Tao
6a unknown3

Top rope. Access via route "unknown4" to the right.

톱로핑 10m Kao Chum Thong
7a C U next Tuesday
톱로핑 Koh Tao
8a+ Strider (Direct)

No bolts, toprope from 'Strider'.

Set: Alex Catlin, 1996

톱로핑 28m Railay
6b Toni's Mind

Right of 'Monkey Gone to Heaven', sharing anchors. No bolts, toprope.

Set: Rob Cooke, 1996

톱로핑 12m Railay
5c 2 Stop
톱로핑 14m Koh Tao
6b Top-Roped

Climbs uo right of 'Back to Mani', all the way to the top of the pillar, sharing anchor with 'Money Maker'. No bolts, climb toprope.

톱로핑 22m Railay
5b The Goat's nose

Top rope only. Traverse from the the first part of Path to Glory. This line is on the right side of the wall, climb the tufa to the roof where you'll see a green sling and a ring bolt for the top, it is a nice worm up line with easy moves and fun to climb, just be careful how and what you grab.

FA: Neil Eaastwood, 6 6월 2023

톱로핑 11m, 7 Si Chompoo
5c Minesweeper
톱로핑 Koh Tao
6b Eyes Of The Buddha

First Route of the area, it started with nice boulder and 3 holds looks like a 'eyes of the buddha' signs.

FA: Ogun Kekul & suha bilgin

톱로핑 Mae Win
6b Sairee Pull
톱로핑 18m Koh Tao
5c B
톱로핑 Koh Tao
5c C
톱로핑 Koh Tao
Sport
7c Baby Gorilla

Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1993

스포츠 클라이밍 7m, 3 Ton Sai
6b Domingo

Alternative second pitch of 'Bouts D'Nouilie'. Old slings. Do not climb!

Set: Alex & Romano, 2003

스포츠 클라이밍 18m, 6 Ton Sai
6b All Riggghht
1 5
2 6b
스포츠 클라이밍 30m, 2, 15 Koh Lao Liang
6c+ New Speedway Boogie

share anchor with Monkey and the Engineer.

스포츠 클라이밍 25m Koh Yao Noi
5c+ Balance Crack

Leftmost line through the obvious corner. Titanium bolts.

Set: The RockShop, 2014

스포츠 클라이밍 15m, 5 Ton Sai
7a Straight out of Tonsai

Must-do climb. Steep climbing on good holds. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, 2014

FA: Andrew Anderson, 2014

스포츠 클라이밍 10m, 6 Ton Sai
5c Song Jit Song Jai

Fun to play on for the grade.

스포츠 클라이밍 16m, 11 Crazy Horse

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