등정들 미국에서 Onsight, Greenpoint onsight, Top rope onsight 또는 Onsight solo로서 Jim Olsen에 의한

Really liked it. Plenty of balance, not too much hands. Can't believe I did it

I love this route. Did it 3 times. Good for making your balance better. Somewhat sustained.

Interesting route, but it appears not to be climbed much

Great climb, yahoo! Just what i needed to get me out of a funk i was in. No big muscle moves needed.

Boy it was hot at the climb maybe 85 degrees.

Fritz led the hard lead. I led the easy one. There are almost 3 5.8 cruxes (if that's possible).

Climbed to crux; dallied too long, started over and fired through. Re-climbed it twice. Worked on my pinch holds. This could be the last warm day of fall.

After leading Chickenshit I followed Fritz up Chickenheads. He got some rope drag so I did a short exit lead as a thunderstorm started to dump on us. It rained twice that day.

We were greeted by a small rattlesnake at the start of the climb. Fritz moved him and we climbed. I managed to skirt the overhang on lead, but Fritz made it over on second.

Actually the ramp was kinda fun; lotsa exposure. This is how we got to the chains at the top of Protein Supplement and Sunbaked.

First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.

Nice route. Wish it were longer.

Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.

Nice face climb.

Skirts around top of overhang. Should be rated 5.7 instead of 5.8

I liked the variety of moves I had to use in this climb. The offwidth portion is enjoyable too.

The crux is about the last 5' to the last bolt before the chains. I led and sidled a bit left and back to get to that last bolt.

Started climbing as the rain was coming in; finished as the rain started. Fritz cleaned on wet rock.

At two places, by the second to third bolt and just before the chains the grade is 5.9. By the chains it is pumpy

Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.

Nice variety of moves on a sport climb. Did it twice. New guidebook overrates it a bit (5.8). Don't believe it.

Gallows Edge is not a place to climb on a hot day. I fried my fingers.

Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.

Climbed it 3 times, just to be sure.

Had to put in pro and pull it out, because my second (who shall remain nameless) pulled out almost none. At the time I climbed it there was a rotten flake at the crux. It may be gone now. Then the climb seemed a lot easier than 5.7

Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.

Four days after climbing here the big Las Conchas fire broke out. Hope it didn't burn out the climbing area.

The route went pretty quick, but the rock was not the best: a little crumbly and dirty.

Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.

Better protected lead than Tuna melt

Bouldery holds, kind of like climbing in the gym.

Grade at first two bolts was really 5.8

When Fritz & I climbed this we thought it was a different climb. We don't know if it was climbed before. I would give the crux a 5.6. The rest of the climb is only 5.4 - 5.5.

led 3x in '04 also '92 or'93

Lotsa fun on fantastic rock. Climbed w/ Mike Olsen. Bypassed crux.

The standard ascent route starts up a chimney with some loose 20 to 40 pound boulders you need to hang on to climb it, so I moved 15' around the corner up a face (Fritz pointed out) which still had some, much more manageable loose rocks, for the first pitch. The rest was on the standard route.

We started about 100' to the right of Lost Line. The route joins Lost Line at the second belay point. Top half of the Third pitch features a fun arete (total 5 pitches). Slings at first belay point indicate it's been climbed often on.

Four leads, I led one. It was onsight for me but not Ray. Ray Jacquot, Bob Frisby, an englishman and I did it.

Toward the top I got ancy about making the moves I wanted (layback to mantle), because the ton and a half rock I wanted to use moves. So I went up a rather nasty little chimney (pumpy 5.7-5.7+).

Rock holds pro really well and first lead is continually good climbing.

'92 + '93. Route in guidebook is average, well above average if you go straight up on face for second lead. Upper part of first lead is too easy; could climb on "arete" 2' right of dihedral to keep this section interesting.

bypassed the crux move on my lead (a woose-out)

My first lead after having foot surgery. Went well.

led 3 variations '92 and '04; most or all exited left of actual route.

It was a good exercise in route finding, glorious views. It's great to sit at belay and watch people way below walking down a path between your toes. Actually just 5 1/2 leads of fifth class. The rest is fourth and third

Weird weather; high winds, heavy clouds, scud, spotty rain;so we decided to do something easy.

First pitch a bit ledgy.

in '04 off route, in '93 on route, I think.

second pitch 1, led pitch 2

I really had to work on this one. Got partway up the flare and moved right with some creative moves, then back into the route.

The bottom was the hardest.

Wanted to lead it, but only brought some draws and tricams.

The ambitious climb of the year (so far) for Fritz and me. There's 5.8 on every pitch, and if we dared we could do the last pitch as 5.9 or 5.10. Didn't drink enough water so my fingers cramped up on the last pitch. As we finished little droplets started spitting from the sky.

Mostly friction with some runout. Weather, perfect.

Repeated climb varying route. Variations interesting too.

We had to go offroute because it probably rained the day before and some of the wet streaks were where one would put their feet. There was a nice foot move on the first pitch. The second (half) pitch had some nice friction/minimal hold work; good for my concentration. This variation appears more difficult than the standard Opal route. We found that Hills guidebook said 150' from the top rappell bolts. It's more like 175'.