등정들 California에서

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Sick undercling traverse on slabby terrain

5.11 friction slab can't possibly exist. This thing had no hand holds the whole way, every foot slip just resulted in a good scare but then your foot just sticks to the next bit of nothing it can find

That was great. Inspiring to climb on this piece of history (FA in 1952 by Robbins/Wilson, and the first 5.9 in the country!).

P1: Engaging boulder start with almost no protection, crux just below the elephant ear (great feature). I found the start crux to be not the first few moves, but instead reaching the crack by establishing on the slab properly.

P2: 20m of continuous laybacking, initially with some good mini-ledges for rest, then nothing on the last ~12m. Also jammable if you like offwidths. I laybacked (guns > technique I guess)

P3: Interesting mix of grovel, chimney and unprotected slab moves. Rap anchor or continue to the top. Moving onto the slab after chimneying is spicy on lead!

Oof. Too much after climbing Open Book before. Feet hurting like hell and it was also really hot. I still feel insecure on steeper fingercracks and especially felt so today. Needed one hang above the tree, clean until there with the crux for me being getting fully established in the crack.

Came into this route via Coffin Nail. Pulling the Horn was great, some crazy exposure there.

5.8 on Mountain Proj, which is surely more accurate. Great climbing on the second pitch. New BD gloves came in handy.

Rope was getting in the way

Sick OW to #6 - definitely not X let alone R rated, not sure why it says that here?

Fuck wideboyz crack gloves, would be better off using banana peels strapped onto the back of your hands with duck tape

I must've started too high or this is truly a one move 12a that I bypassed the Crux of? Definitely on the right line according to MP but felt way too easy for 12a

Post swim arvo lap

Did a bunch of v0s and a 2 that aren't on thecrag so I'm ticking this v1 to make myself feel good

All jugs

Most sandbagged V2 in the valley?

Epic day out in an absurd position with Yosemite falls putting on a show with peak flow of the year after all the snow melt.

Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing.

Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish.

Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked.

Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4.

A great last route of the trip. I'll be back