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  • Vegetation
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  • 관점
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5.5 G Horseman

FA: Hans Kraus & Fritz Wiessner

전통등반 46m, 2 Shawangunks
5.5 G Jackie
1 5.5 G
2 5.3 G
전통등반 40m Shawangunks
5.5 Arch

FA: Hans Kraus & Bonnie Prudden

전통등반 79m, 2 Shawangunks
5.5 G Fingerlocks or Cedar Box
전통등반 18m Shawangunks
5.5 G Black Fly

Starts a few meters (yards) right of Easy, up an easy right angling-corner ramp. Step right onto a small ledge, then up crack systems towards a small roof; exit on the left and finish up the crack.

FA: Gardiner Perry & John Bousman, 1959

전통등반 32m Shawangunks
5.5 Candy Corner
전통등반 29m Seneca
5.5 PG Regular Route
1 5.0 150ft
2 5.4 140ft
3 5.5 165ft
4 5.5 120ft
5 5.5 50ft
6 5.2 PG 150ft

This is the generally best protected route up the slab, though still with significant run-outs, but generally on easy terrain.

Start at the left-facing corner at the most-trampled section at the base of the slab.

  1. (5.0 G) Climb a short distance up the left-facing corner to a boulder and where a gentle-climbing cracks branches rightwards. Follow this crack until it meets a similar, though narrower, crack that zigs left, until it ends, then up into an area of small ledges and belay. 150'

  2. (5.4 G) Climb up towards a large left-arching corner by way of a crack and speckled with white rock. Climb a short way up the corner to an old ring piton, then pull right up onto the slab above (the farther up the corner, the harder the pull right will get), then up the easy slab to a good ledge. 140'

  3. (5.5 PG) Climb up to a shallow left-facing corner with a thin crack in the corner. Follow this crack & corner until it runs out, then friction up and right to a belay from several good cracks in a small overlap. 165'

  4. (5.5 PG) Pull up over the overlap, then follow the right-most of the cracks up and right until it runs out. Climb rightwards to a gravel ledge below a large boulder, then up along the left side of the boulder to a great belay in a mini-fort with a flat floor and a birch tree. (Or, friction straight up & right from the end of the crack to the belay, with no gear.) 120'

  5. (5.5 G) Step out from the fort to the left, and up the slab/corner until below a dark cave, and until the steep wall can be climbed up and right on good holds to a large ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay. 50'

  6. (5.2 G) Walk right along the big ledge, then up over some ledge to a face with an S-shaped crack, follow the crack to a small ledge with a steep face with a vertical crack broken half-way up with a horizontal crack. Up this short face, then wander up the ledgy rock angling gently right-wards to the good ledge at the top. 150'

전통등반 240m, 6 Adirondacks
5.5 Great Arch
1 5.5 110'
2 5.5 120'
3 5.3 120'

FA: Bill Chatfield & Fess Green, 1965

전통등반 110m, 3 Stone Mountain State Park
5.5 Afterburner

Great beginner's Lead.

Jugs all the way up.

FA: Pat Sloan

스포츠 클라이밍 12m, 3 Foster Falls
5.5 Hawk
1 5.5
2 5.5
3 5.3

FA: Willie Crowther, Gardner & Marry Perry

전통등반 70m, 3 Shawangunks
5.5 Upper Refuse 전통등반 Cathedral Ledge
5.5 II R Standard Route

This climbs the obvious right-facing arch up the cliff, then up through (crux) overlaps and finishing on the upper slabs. From near the center base of the slabs:

Pitch 0: 45m (5.0?) Scramble 150ft up an easy depression to the starting ledge.

  1. 24m (5.3) From the right end of the starting ledge, friction up and right to a large pothole called the Toilet Bowl. Two bolt anchor. (Be careful, the bowl is often wet inside, where you stand... and leading friction with wet shoes is exciting.)

  2. 27m (5.2) Up and left past a flake to good ledges at the base of the obvious arch. Double ring bolt anchor.

  3. 42m (5.4) Climb up the arch, gentle laybacks to a possible piton & gear semi-hanging belay. (Or combine with next pitch on a 70m rope.)

  4. 28m (5.2) Continue up and right along the arch and up easy slabs to a sloping belay stance on fixed slings around a natural thread anchor.

  5. 44m (5.3) Continue up easy slabs up and right to the end of the arch, then up easy climbing at the natural break in the head wall to the Lunch Ledge. 2 Bolt anchor.

  6. 45m (5.5) The crux pitch: up 15' from the right end of the Lunch Ledge, one friction move right to a bolt, down climb a ramp for 10', step right onto a brownish spot foothold, to another bolt, then delicate slab onto a left-diaganolling ramp. Possibly belay here (rope-drag issues later) or continue up the ramp to a short layback corner. (Nut anchor.)

  7. 25m (5.2) Friction 40' left traversing an easy slab beneath an overlap to an easy dike, then up to the comfortable ledge above. (Tree belay, or nut.)

  8. 43m (5.2 or 5.5). Follow the easy, stepped, dike up to the left of a tree to an overlap, bypass on the left to a tree ledge (5.2 R) or climb directly over the ledge at a double crack (protectable, one 5.5 move).

  9. 70m (5.2 R) Finish up the upper slabs to trees, following either of the two upper dikes. The easier is up the left-hand that has a bolt without hangar visible from the belay, and then a second later bolt. (With less than a 70m rope, either belay somewhere, possible the bolt, possibly the later gear placement, or possibly trees off to the left about 2/3 way up -- or simul-climb for a bit.)

Walk off to the (climber's) right.

전통등반 350m, 9 Whitehorse Ledge
5.5 No Picnic
전통등반 24m Shawangunks
5.5 Sixish

FA: Hans Kraus & Dick Hirschland

전통등반 58m Shawangunks
5.5 Layback

FA: Fritz Wiessner & George Temple

전통등반 36m Shawangunks
5.5 The Cave Route

Well-protected mixed route with fun exposure and a great lunch ledge.

  1. 70ft (5.4) Wander up the slab face that slants leftwards away from the shallow cave. Belay at double bolts.

  2. 80ft (5.5) Diagonal left up and around the corner. Follow the short ramp past bolts. As the ramp gets less steep, gear helps. Aim for the trees.

  3. 70ft (5.5) Walk up the path through the trees until you come to the cliff. Move left 20ft. Climb the bolted face up to the roof. Up and over to the bolted belay on lightning ledge.

It is possible to walk off from Lightning Ledge by following the track left. There are bolts up the exposed part of the scramble. It is a safe exit.

전통등반 67m, 3 Linville Gorge
5.5 Saber 전통등반 91m Leavenworth
5.5 Dennis

FA: Gardiner, Mary Perry & Ann Buffin

전통등반 43m Shawangunks
5.5 Wafer Step
전통등반 24m Acadia National Park
5.5 R Boston
전통등반 15m Shawangunks
5.5 Double Chin
전통등반 43m Shawangunks
5.5 II Beginner's Route

A good rewarding, though not sustained route up the slabs. There are but a few moves of 5.5, and only a few sections of 5.4 climbing -- most of the climbing is 5.3 and easier. But, often with long run-outs at the easier grades, requiring confident leading at that grade. The "Standard Route" is a better-protected choice.

Start below a large isolated pine tree about 35m up near the right side of the slabs.

  1. 120ft (5.2). Climb the easy slab to a 2 ring-bolt anchor left of the pine tree.

  2. 140ft (5.4) From the anchor follow a vertical crack over the left side of an overlap, then up a narrow vertical dike up a steeper slab past 2 bolts to a small stance with 2 ring-bolts on the left.

  3. 110ft (5.1 R). Continue up an easy low-angled groove to another double-bolt anchor.

  4. 90ft (5.2) Follow a prominent right-slanting arch until it ends at a double-bolt anchor above a small flake.

  5. 140ft (5.5, 5.4R) Step up from the anchor through the headwall (5.5) then up and left (5.4 R) to and past a few hidden pockets (gear!) then up to a Grinch-face belay ledge with double-bolt anchor.

  6. 100ft (5.4). Go up and right into a left-facing groove with a lay-back flake, then up the flake for about 50ft. Then step up and right, then up a 20-foot head wall with old pitons. Belay on a good ledge just above the head wall , and below the last big overlap.

  7. 100ft (5.3). Traverse left from the anchor past a detach block to a gently rising ramp, then past an old bolt (good for route-finding an keep the rope off the ledge, but wouldn't trust it to catch a fall). Continue until you can break right on good holds through the overlap then up to a tree anchor.

  8. 4th class. Follow the obvious dike up the next section of slab.

  9. 4th class (one 5.1 move). Follow the dike diagonally up and right through the next section of slab.

  10. 4th class (a couple 5.0 moves). Friction up the easy slab to the summit. One slightly steep friction section.

The last three pitches are usually climbed un-roped as a scramble.

전통등반 340m, 10 Whitehorse Ledge
5.5 Peek-A-Boo

An excellent climb!

  1. Start in the gulley to the left of Jim Dandy, head up the slab, follow the natural line up the left where you can find pro, headed towards the gap between the two faces way way way up there. Easy climbing, but you will have sparse protection at about 15-20ft apart. This pitch ends with a length traverse to the right across to the 3 oldish bolts that make up the anchor. 170 ft (almost a full 60m rope).

  2. Straight off the belay, lean across the void, clip a draw onto the bolt, then go for the peek-a-boo move!!!. I think the route then goes off to the right on a traverse, but I did it by going straight up following the roof system, probably bumps the grade up a bit, but great climbing either way.

  3. There is a sea of slab in front of you that is very dirty and manky. Lunch ledge is a straight traverse to the right, or you can try find a clean path diagonally up and to the right to top out at Lightning Ledge. Or... you can rap from here and two 60's will bring you back to Jim Dandy first pitch, or "almost" all the way down to the ground, you will have to traverse a bit to get back into the original starting gully to come off rappel.

FFA: Bob Mitchell & Bob Gillespie, 1970

전통등반 120m, 3 Linville Gorge
{AU} YDS:5.5 Jack Knife
전통등반 20m Enchanted Rock
5.5 RMC
전통등반 61m Shawangunks
5.5 Thais
미상 110m Seneca
5.5 Beginner's Route

Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start.

전통등반 Rumney
5.5 Men With Cow's Heads

Good alternative if Solar Technology is busy. Walk off backside of route to the left.

전통등반 50m Joshua Tree National Park
5.5 East Slab 미상 Boulder
5.5 Lessa the Purramatic 6000 Kitty
스포츠 클라이밍 8m Austin
5.5 Mary Pop-Parazzi

FA: Jenny Ryan, Mark Ryan, Keith Raker & O’Neil Arnold, 2009

스포츠 클라이밍 8m, 3 Red River Gorge
5.5 Sonny and Juanita 전통등반 Interstate State Park, Minnesota side
5.5 Silver Spoon 스포츠 클라이밍 Colorado Springs
5.5 Tonto

A nice hand crack,and corner that run to the right of the large chimney/arch feature to the left of Ragged Edges. A fun, quality route.

FA: Joe Herbst & Betsy Herbst

전통등반 30m Red Rock
5.5 Blue Moon 전통등반 Interstate State Park, Minnesota side
5.5 Northwest Buttress

At 1,500 ft. Tenaya Peak is long. It offers low grade friction climbing with only a few sections in the 5.5 range.

A 5.6 or so crack variation on the top pitch is available for those wanting something a bit spicier.

알파인 460m, 14 Yosemite National Park
5.5 Recon 전통등반 Boulder
5.5 Afternoon Delight

A lovely climb up a wide, fairly steep face -- but there are continually good holds all the way up. Sustained at the 5.5 grade. Gear can be odd, but there are generally good placements and good stances for placing.

전통등반 18m Adirondacks
5.5 The Staircase
미상 South Platte
5.5 Jenna' Chimney 스포츠 클라이밍 Red Wing
5.5 The North Ridge

A great beginner climb that is well protected, vertical and is all on gear (no pesky bolts).

Start: Keep walking around the Eastern side of Tablerock, passing Jim Dandy, and The Cave Route. When you get around the back, follow the trail which is now burnt out and look for a path to the left leading up on top of a large boulder. It will be juggy vertical rock above you.

  1. The best pitch of The North Ridge. Climb the juggy vertical rock, trending left around the overhung section, this turns into easy slab leading up to a nice belay ledge with 3 fixed pitons and a fixed 3 piece cordalette. Make sure to back this up with your own pro. This is a long pitch that takes lots of passive pro. (150ft, 5.5)

  2. Climb up and trend right around the exposed arette. There is a direct finish straight up, or traverse right a little more and take the very easy, but vegetated and dirty finish. Pitch ends in shrubs with a gear belay. (70ft, 5.5)

  3. An annoying pitch, a couple boulder moves at maybe 5.4 which generally means you should rope up, but then pretty much a walk off until you can find a spot to build another 3 piece anchor and belay. Some just solo this pitch. (50ft, 5.3).

전통등반 120m, 3 Linville Gorge
5.5 Swanson Arete 미상 Boulder
5.5 Rosebush 전통등반 Interstate State Park, Minnesota side
5.5 Jammermeister 톱로핑 Interstate State Park, Minnesota side
5.5 Conn's East
미상 79m Seneca
5.5 Micro Brew 스포츠 클라이밍 15m New River Gorge
5.5 The Mummy

FFA: Bob Gillespie, Bob Mitchell & Steve Longenecker, 1971

전통등반 110m, 3 Linville Gorge
5.5 - 8 Wonderwall
톱로핑 Acadia National Park
5.5 The Trough
전통등반 Joshua Tree National Park
5.5 Updraft
미상 70m Shawangunks
5.5 Asphodel
전통등반 36m Shawangunks
5.5 Tigger 전통등반 Boulder
5.5 Midway Route 미상 Leavenworth
5.5 The Other One 전통등반 Interstate State Park, Minnesota side
5.5 The Great Chimney
톱로핑 Acadia National Park
5.5 No Alternative
전통등반 110m Stone Mountain State Park
5.5 High Corner
전통등반 Shawangunks
5.5 Scanty Panty

FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain

전통등반 30m Red Rock
5.5 The Farce
전통등반 61m Lake Tahoe, California Side
5.5 Swiss Cheese

If leading, ascend the gully on the left above the ledge, slinging handlebars for natural pro. If top-roping, stay right to ascend the arête. For setting a top-rope anchor, bring lots of webbing and sling the huge knob.

FA: unknown

전통등반 21m Skyline Areas
5.5 Layback Crack 전통등반 45m Salt Lake City
5.5 Honey Pot 톱로핑 Pilot Mountain State Park
5.5 G/PG Boardwalk

2 ring anchor set back from the ede

전통등반 18m Leominster Area
5.5 Loose Goose
전통등반 85m, 3 Shawangunks
5.5 A Flake Called Lee 미상 12m Frederick
5.5 Route 1

sharing the 2-bolt top anchor with 'Route 2'

전통등반 18m Ralph Stover State Park
5.5 X Empress

Starts the same as for "Regular Route".

  1. (5.3 G) Climb the left facing corner until almost the end, at some bushes, then step right over the corner and belay at some good cracks. 120'

  2. (5.2 G) Traverse right to stepped rock then up pock-marked rock to a ledge at the base of the large left-arching corner. 130'

  3. (5.4 G) Climb the left-arching corner until it overhangs, then break out left past a crack and a huge pancake flake to the top of a hummuck, cross the top of the first hummuck, below the 2nd hummuck, and belay on the top of the third hummuck.

  4. (5.5 X) Climb nigh-unprotected slab towards the good ledge at the base of the obvious off-width. (130')

  5. (5.5 G, 5.4 R) Climb the obvious off-width. Step-right at the end, then friction up to a small crack/overlap and belay. 130'

  6. (5.3 PG) Climb up the short but good crack, then friction straight up to a large block that rests completely detached on the slab. Belay at the tree island to the right. 120'

  7. (4th class) Go straight right to a small gap in the trees. (Or straight up to the trees for the not-preferred south descent.)

V1: (5.4 G) Since parts of P1, P2, and P3 overlap with the (quite popular) "Regular Route", from the P1 belay head almost directly upwards following various right-facing cracks and flakes to the P3 belay on the 3rd hummuck. 170'

FA: Fritz Wiessner & George Austin, 1933

전통등반 240m, 7 Adirondacks
5.5 Mike's Crack
볼더 Crowder's Mountain State Park
5.5 Ecstasy Southwest Buttress Variation
전통등반 Seneca
5.5 Root Route

Directly to the left of Material Implications. Climb to the left of the little ledge and then continue to the top of the route.

톱로핑 9m Grand Ledge
5.5 Little Finger

FA: Jim Kolocotronis & Bob Perlee

전통등반 180m, 3 Adirondacks
5.5 Lisa Falls Right 미상 Salt Lake City
5.5 The Cow, Center
전통등반 60m Yosemite National Park
5.5 The Nose

use less make it hard its a fun climb on a expoesed face

미상 Crowder's Mountain State Park
5.5 Beelzebub Corner 미상 Whitehorse Ledge
5.5 Orange Sunshine
스포츠 클라이밍 Rumney
5.5 Swan Slab Chimney

Follow the chimney on the left side of the block shared with Oak Tree Flake. Can be top-roped with a 60m rope from the anchor shared with Grant's Crack.

전통등반 30m Yosemite National Park
5.5 The Trough 스포츠 클라이밍 50m, 8 Big Rock
5.5 Yu Stin Ki Pu
스포츠 클라이밍 6m Red River Gorge
5.5 Shake It Don't Break It 스포츠 클라이밍 16m, 3 Frenchman Coulee
5.5 Right On
전통등반 400m Joshua Tree National Park
5.5 E.O. Lieback 미상 Laramie
5.5 The West Slabs 미상 Salt Lake City
5.5 Scuttle
전통등반 15m Seneca
5.5 E.O. Friction 미상 Laramie
5.5 Wonder Corner
미상 Acadia National Park
5.5/6 Goldilocks 톱로핑 15m Pilot Mountain State Park
5.5 Quaker Oats 미상 33m McDowell Mountains
5.5 Bat Crack
전통등반 55m, 2 Joshua Tree National Park
5.5 LSD (Lower Skyline Direct)
전통등반 37m Seneca
5.5 Ultimate Bushwack

Start under the ledge with the sapling and navigate yourself around the ledge to the left and up onto it. From there continue on up to the top.

톱로핑 9m Grand Ledge
5.5 Lowers One Alpha

9 bolts to top

미상 20m Mount Yonah
5.5 Organic Matter 미상 Coopers Rock State Forest
5.5 Material Implications

Between Root Route and Ultimate Bushwack. Start in the slanted crack and transition onto the face.

톱로핑 9m Grand Ledge
5.5 Easier Than It Looks

Climb the slab immediately right of the corner on the left side of the Devil's Slide slab. Continue up unprotected slab to a rightward leading ramp to the first pitch anchors on Harder Than It Looks. No bolts on route. From here you can continue on Harder Than It Looks at around grade 5.5, up Fatman Flake.

전통등반 40m Enchanted Rock
5.5 Kindergarten Crack Left

FFA: unknown

전통등반 76m, 3 Lake Tahoe, California Side
5.5 Stand Off

FFA: Ralph Showalter

톱로핑 Austin
5.5 R Afternoon Delight 전통등반 30m New River Gorge
5.5 Yellow Corner 미상 Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge
5.5 G/PG The Green Route 전통등반 21m, 2 Leominster Area

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