攀登 in Abseil Gully having 攀爬攻略

Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.

Stuck an overcammed #1 cam at the start then proceeded to rope faff on an extended semi-hanging belay etc. Friday feels.

P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.

P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal.

Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17.

The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.

Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top.

Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots.

Ramble first pitch including a glue-in ring or two [?off route onto SPB - no carrots spotted] to double bolt belay, 2nd pitch adds the stars with some juggy pumpy climbing, the harder climbing ring bolt protected. Double carrot belay after the highline threads*3.

Not sure if its a sandbag or just got a bit heady doing the crux in light rain.

A couple of nice bits of climbing but very runout on chicken heads, 1 pitch

Climbed as one pitch

A fun ramble, found the first move tough, probably easy for a beginner jammer, but I'm not even that. Second pitch is not for beginner leaders, easy but run out on poor gear until nearly the top where you get a massive sling.

Classy! Stepping out of the cave is a beautiful moment.

Forgot my bag, ran back up the abseil rope.

Top rope top belay top section only

Amazingly fun. Linked both pitches.

Up p1 then traverse across slab to belay of SPB. A good way to do this and avoid the choss in p2.

Just p1

Lead p2. So good - perfect last pitch of the trip.

This is a good exit climb. Done as a single long pitch. Substantial rope drag by the end. Arguably the most dangerous climb of the day with the amount of running out of the bottom half! Used a 1 and 3 and the occasional bolt, otherwise just ran it out. After all, how could you fall off a twelve?

Seconding Leo

Seconding Leo

Exit climb of an awesome day with leading all pitches of Goldstar, gates of Janus, the masters eggs, girl in the mirror/mean streak link up (1 pitch) and The Eyrie (1pitch)

2nd pitch is purely sport. Good for a rest day

2nd ever trad lead

Gripping. Can’t believe I took Lou up here for her first climb (28? years ago).

Yeah definitely a little bit run out in places

fun runout placing chicken head slings throughout the second pitch

With Jack.

With Jack Pezzey.

Pretty cruisy climbing, bit on the runout side of things. Second pitch is bloody awesome!

just beautiful climbing

Good climb, glad to have finally gotten around to doing it. Thought protection was good on both pitches if you look for chicken heads and funky sling action.

A lil bit run out at the top bit but easy climbing and was able to find a couple of head piece averageish placements. Second pitch was really cool.

Linked both pitches following Sean's gear

Linked both pitches. Steep section was quite "interesting" at the grade. Lots of bolts on this one - I ran out of quick draws.

Thoughtful moves right of the cave

These slabs are so so grand. Simul rope soloing side by side with Benny.

This is not a sports climb. Down low trad gear, and not much of it (and not all good either), and then one ring to the anchors. Second pitch has about a half dozen rings, but the last bit at the top is run out above a ledge, with not many trad options (I traversed left a bit to find some and ended up coming up directly under the carrot abseil anchors). Still good fun, but not advised if you're only just leading the grade.

Great climb as a link up, may as well be a sports climb, just one cam down low.

Second pitch is a bit runout.