Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期四 9th 5月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land | 15m, 3 | |||||
星期六 6th 4月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★★ Crowlands - with Declan Ditchfield | 25m, 6 | 一般 | ||||
星期天 24th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 | ★ Parrot On A Stick - with rew | 12m, 3 | |||||
星期天 24th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Body Heat | 20m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Delicious technical slab arete. Only had time for a top-rope, really keen to come back for this, the top was definitely the crux for me, such terrible feet!
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星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Tatra Inn The Tombstones | |||||||
19 | ★★ Finn McCool - with James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 20m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
17 | ★★ Spunky - with James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 27m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Might have mixed this up with Spooky.
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16 | ★★ Spooky - with James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 27m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Nice route. Worth going back for and now also retro bolted with new lower off anchors.
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星期二 12th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
1
2
| 42m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
the initial crack took years of my life, a lot of my dignity and even more of my skin - I will be back
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星期天 10th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 Hard |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
- with
Riley Bradford
1
2
3
| 70m, 1 | ★ 好 | ||||
星期天 10th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Sultan
- with
jeremy, laura
1
2
3
| 65m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok - with jeremy | 27m | ★ 好 | ||||
Started directly up the slab from below (as per new guide - very good) rather than traversing in from the R (topo on here). Got thoroughly spanked slipping out of sweaty fist jams in the sun on the crux and landed on the ledge below. Eventually pulled through but the fun wasn't over as swarms of tiny black ants and irritating grass tufts guard the top crack - a classic Buffalo experience.
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星期天 10th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 Hard | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant - with Emma | 70m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Awesome jamming on P1. P2 is the money pitch with a great layback but the gear is quite marginal in the top half, and it eventually becomes run out slab climbing where the seam ends. P3 was good but starting to be a bit polished with traffic.
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星期六 9th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Redbacks - with Dan Bodd | 25m | |||||
tricky, glad we didnt pull the rope, tough getting my head round granite
|
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星期六 9th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
13 | ★ Dick Selector | 25m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期五 8th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
- with
Riley Bradford, Jordon
1
2
| 42m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
- with
Emma, Jordon, AAA crew
1
lead by
Jordon
2
lead by
Riley Bradford
| 42m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Amazing position, exposure and thought-provoking climbing. Fell from top of unprotected slab on top out of P2 about 3m onto the ledge.
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星期五 8th 3月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Icing On The Cake
- with
Dan Bodd
1
2
| 75m, 9 | |||||
Rapped to the first belay cos we ran out of time, got scared and grabbed the draw once, shoulda tried to stay on cos I got the rest.
|
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星期天 25th 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
kelly
4
24
35m
5
22
30m
6
22
35m
7
19
15m
8
14
20m
9
10
25m
| 160m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Pitches 4-9. One fall on the corner pitch. Very very stoked. Beautiful, fun, interesting climbing
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星期四 22nd 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | |||||||
19 | ★★ Hand Vice - with steve, ben | 11m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Had a decent flash go, got all the gear in but slipped out of the top-out. Too pumped for another real attempt. This makes Witch looks like a very soft 17.
Will be back - 1*#1, 3#*2, a #3 or #4 for the top (think a sling and #1 for the anchor.) |
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星期三 21st 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau Kokomo Outcrop | |||||||
18 | Le Souef's Up - with Peter Melouney | 15m, 3 | |||||
Nice climbing and now well-protected. Too roasted at the end of a long day to keep it together through the crux.
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星期三 21st 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct - with Peter Melouney | 3 | |||||
P1 lead OS - pleasant jamming
P2 tricky moves establishing on the slab - couldn't get it clean in the sun.
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21 | ★★★ Commander Cody - with Chris | 30m | |||||
Beautiful line with great gear throughout
|
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18 Hard | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct - with Chris | 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
P1 - slabby crack with beautiful jams leads to an awesome trench belay! P2 - tried to go up the corner at first bolt and came off. Next time will traverse onto face slab lower. Very fun climb.
|
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星期二 20th 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||||
22 M1 | ★★★ Hard Rain - with Karina | 120m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Amazing climb. Was fighting hard for P1 and got to the water streak but pumped out. Definitely keen to give it another shot on a future trip.
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星期一 19th 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula - with haily | 60m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Imposing line. Whipped off the roof first go but pulled back on after a rest and felt ok - one to come back for.
Rack 2*0.75, 3*1-3, 2*4, couple of finger sized wires/cams for the top. Could have used another 3. |
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星期一 19th 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Dreaming - with Karina | 90m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Picturesque line with amazing slabbing on good quality clean rock. Heady lead with some spaced BR/FH's and a big runout to the anchors. Led both pitches. This was my highlight for the week.
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星期天 18th 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Total Recall - with haily | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Made it through the bulges on the flash go but couldn't hand on to the top - good fight.
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星期六 3rd 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - with Craig Thomas | 20m | |||||
Beautiful sequence, delightful finger locks
|
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星期四 1st 2月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||||
22 M1 | ★★★ Hard Rain | 120m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
星期天 28th 1月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Commander Cody | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
So awesome. Blew a foot, fell and had to take after a bad handjam hit a nerve but loved the climb regardless. Anchors at 30m
|
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星期六 20th 1月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area Ariel Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Ariel - with Joel Lake, Matt Chahda | 15m, 3 | |||||
星期三 3rd 1月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani The Monolith | |||||||
7 | ★ Hitch-Hiker | 16m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期一 1st 1月 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament | 10m | |||||
TRS. Much dogging. Baggy fingers through thin hands felt desperate.
|
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星期四 30th 11月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
12 | ★ The Pintle Variant Start - with Norbert Ruppe | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
First time climbing on granite! Is this area sandbagged or do I just suck at crack 😅
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星期一 20th 11月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ The Initiation - with Chen Tiran | 90m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期天 19th 11月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with janina | 18m, 5 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Amazing technical arete. Slipped once at the third bolt.
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星期天 1st 10月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | |||||||
19 ~18 | ★★ Hand Vice - with JB | 11m | |||||
星期一 12th 6月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation | 90m, 1 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
星期二 11th 4月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula - with Greg Blachon, Luke C | 60m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Extenuating and breathtaking in all senses. Unfortunately I took a fall on the laybacking at the top so I can't claim the onsight or red point (I did not split it in two pitches on purpose...) . The second go on the laybacking went well and "easy". Probably better not to bring backpack next time although the bladder with water helped.
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星期天 9th 4月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 Hard | ★ Parrot On A Stick - with loretta | 12m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
There was a lot of swearing and cursing as this is really my introduction to granite climbing. Pretty sure I have lots to learn.
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星期二 4th 4月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
13 Hard | ★ Dick Selector - with loretta | 25m | ★ 好 | ||||
Another terrifying introduction to Victorian granite climbing. Surely I’ll be less terrified next time.
|
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星期一 27th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Edge Of Pleasure - with tim | 80m, 12 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Worth doing the first pitch for sure! Slipped off unexpectedly near 4th bolt. Bit slippery and a little mossy would be good doing it in cooler temps. Super fun and exciting 😁
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星期天 26th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Mushroom Rock | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Lethal Weapon - with Anthony Shilton | 35m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Super route. Can see why it gets stars! Crux is getting past the 2nd bolt but the fun isn't over after that. Could do with a good wire brush just for the last 5 metres at the top out. Otherwise, a quality slab sport route.
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星期六 18th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★ Vortex - with Anthony Shilton | 92m | ★ 好 | ||||
Lead first pitch after an interesting rap in from the anchors above. I think those rap anchors are placed so you rap through the hole to the base rather than through the vegetation! Anthony took the 2nd pitch. Super scary with no gear on the crux.
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18 | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct — 3 attempts - with Anthony Shilton | 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Stepped to high in the crack after clipping the 1st bolt. Stay lower and ease into the slab and past the bolt.
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星期四 16th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with James, John | 18m, 5 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
星期一 13th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||||
18 | ★ Boldfinger - with Chris Bailie, Geoff, Pete | 12m | ★ 好 | ||||
星期天 12th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé - with Daniel White | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Got a bit pumped messing around with gear towards the top of the staring flake, then slowly peeled off after a foot popped transitioning a little low into the undercling. Thoroughly enjoyable climbing all the way.
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星期六 11th 2月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde | 18m, 5 | |||||
星期天 15th 1月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land | 15m, 3 | |||||
星期天 15th 1月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
20 ~21 | Hair Trigger — 2 attempts - with Anthony Shilton | 20m, 3 | 一般 | ||||
The move past the first clip is very thin. Might be better friction in cooler weather. Felt harder than 20.
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星期天 1st 1月 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation | 90m, 1 | |||||
Got a bit lost and wandered out right on the slab to some deceiving carrots, not sure if we went off route but ended up taking like 4 whips on a nut on a carrot, good to know they are bomber. Last pitch was short but super nice.
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星期五 30th 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Balked at the run out slab top section and rested on the gear. Great varied climb, exciting all the way.
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星期三 28th 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula | 60m | |||||
Incredible sustained jamming experience. Feels like I ditched my L plates by the end of this one. Glad to have done this on top rope though I’d be interested in trying to lead it in two pitches. Took one rest near the top.
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星期天 18th 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament - with Dave Cook | 10m | |||||
星期六 10th 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | |||||||
19 ~19 | ★★ Hand Vice | 11m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
A real test piece
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星期四 1st 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament - with Kalang Kedumba Jones | 10m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Sick! Another one to come back for
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星期四 1st 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
17 | ★ Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight - with Kate Proctor | 18m | 不值一提 | ||||
Ew
|
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星期四 1st 12月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel - with Ryan Siacci, Nut Busting Unicorn | 12m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Super keen to get back on this one!!
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星期三 6th 4月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
24 21 - 23 | Unknown | 18m, 4 | |||||
Very hard, still didn't figure out a way to top out
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22 | ★ Smear Tactics | 15m, 1 | |||||
Very nice. One sit at the bolt. Would go
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星期二 5th 4月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
22 | ★ Smear Tactics | 15m, 1 | |||||
remembering how to climb granite slab
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星期四 10th 3月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area Ariel Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★ Daughter of Ariel | 10m | |||||
星期四 10th 3月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle | 25m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
21 | ★★ Silver Girl | 18m, 3 | |||||
星期天 13th 2月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
22 | ★★ Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch - with Roman Rosen | 45m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Tough slab crux
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星期六 12th 2月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with Roman Rosenbaum | 18m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期二 18th 1月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
19 | ★ Fire in the Foothills - with brendan faser | 25m, 7 | |||||
星期天 9th 1月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok - with Brendan Fraser | 27m | |||||
Shitty start out of the overhang. Pulled on Cam.
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星期一 3rd 1月 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
23 | ★ The Initiation Direct Finish - with benwiessner | 35m | ★ 好 | ||||
星期五 31st 12月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
21 21 to 23 | ★★ Injustice | 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Tried to dyno the top for fun, got a flapper and a big fall for my hubris. Great exciting slab finale.
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星期三 29th 12月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
22 | ★★ Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch - with Harrie Van de Linde, Rachael Brock | 45m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Closest thing you’ll get to sport climbing at Buffalo. Feels quite contrived to stay in the corner for the crux. Was drained from P1, and missed the onsight
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25 | ★★★ Vertical Tai Chi - with Harrie Van de Linde | 76m, 6 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Insanely good slabbing! Well protected, just make sure your second is anchored so they don’t slam into the wall when you fall (sorry Harrie Van de Linde) Crux is definitely the first 3 bolts, but it doesn’t ease up all that much.
Got all the moves, but it’ll take a couple toprope laps to dial in the beta. |
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星期二 28th 12月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Eurobin Falls | |||||||
23 | ★★ Muscle Beach - with Harrie Van de Linde, Rachael Brock | 45m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Fell once at the top of the flake, and got scared clipping the 4th bolt. Continued straight up from the anchors (no pro) and wandered our way for a swim. Classic route, worthy of many more ascents, especially now that we’ve cleaned off a bunch of the moss and loose rock.
Sincere thanks to Michael Law for retrobolting this route. It’s now safe and sane (but still has that friction slab quality without being over bolted). |
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星期二 28th 12月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
1
22
25m
2
28
30m
3
15m
4
30m
5
6
7
8
9
| 100m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
First lead attempt with brad. Took at the piton then finished at aid belay.
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星期二 23rd 11月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||||
18 | ★ Boldfinger | 12m | ★ 好 | ||||
星期六 9th 10月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
18 | ★★ Spaceman Spiff | 15m, 6 | |||||
Layback at the halfway mark caught me by surprise. Good fun, featured 3D face.
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星期一 24th 5月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Scott | 18m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Tricky first bolt clip unless you are tall! Get your head sorted before you make the moves past the 3rd bolt.
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星期五 30th 4月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula | 60m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
rapped in to about halfway with littlehammer to retrieve gear and try work out beta for the crux
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星期四 29th 4月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament | 10m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
TR solo, didn't really go any better than the day before
|
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星期三 28th 4月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament - with Dane Evans | 10m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
lovely line if short, and way out of my paygrade at the moment
|
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星期六 24th 4月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - with Dane Evans | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
finishing it with a bit more gear, and realising how close i was on the o/s attempt
|
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星期六 24th 4月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé - with Dane Evans | 30m | |||||
星期五 26th 3月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire | 40m | ★ 好 | ||||
Top pitch only. With Yushu
|
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星期三 17th 3月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Keith Davison | 230m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Much harder then it looks. I tried climbing it from pitch 1 and pitch 2 but it was too hard and too brutal on me. I just jumarred my way up to belay my friend.
Never been so good at jumarring in my life lol.
Lost the light and got beknighted. Had to call the ranger for help.
Always bring a jacket/bivy, extra batteries for the head torch and extra water.
16hr car to car. Didn’t die.
Highly recommend suss out the approach there (which we did) and the exit out (which we didn’t)
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星期天 28th 2月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Reservoir Environs Mt Dunn | |||||||
15 | ★★ Strawberry Jam - with Andrew Wallace | 10m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期天 28th 2月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
17 | ★ Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight - with Dean | 18m | |||||
星期一 22nd 2月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula - with Oliver | 60m | |||||
The fist and hand sections felt great (even if my backpack kept me out of the chimney). However, the layback moves at the crux felt nails.
Is this just more evidence that I can’t layback anymore? Fortunately my ego can be saved: seconding this route is much harder than leading since I had all the cams on my harness by the time I got to the crux. After I dogged it I took my backpack off and hung it on one of the spare #4s from my harness, and the layback went okay! Tip 1: lead it, hog all onsight opportunities for the day. Tip 2: don’t take your pack down the crevasse. If you do, make your second go down to fetch it after the climb is over. Tip 3: save a #4 for the roof since no other gear will protect the traverse. |
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星期天 17th 1月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula | 60m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Lost the onsight just a few meter from the top, when my foot slipped after the roof at the beginning of the layback. Slightly disappointed but still happy to have done this mega climb! Nothing too hard, just good climbing and a lot of gear management and bumping up cams if you don’t have at least 3 or 4 cams #3
Did it with a set of wires, only a double rack of cams up to #4 and a set of hexes, which I thought would make up for the lack of medium cams. Ended up trying to place a big hex which got awkwardly stucked, let go all my french canadian swearing vocabulary trying to take it out, and finally just bumped up a BD #3 for at least 10-15 meters. |
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星期六 16th 1月 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula - with Greg Blachon | 60m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
My feet hurt. GPS coordinates show the gully access to get to the bottom of the climb but we abseiled down from the tree directly above the finish. Not easy to locate.
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星期三 30th 12月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
23 | ★ Banana Milkshakes Rule - with Taner | 30m | |||||
Oof. Again, I need to enrol in slab school.
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21 | ★★ Back in an Hour - with Taner | 20m, 6 | |||||
lol no
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星期三 30th 12月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - with Harrie Van de Linde | 20m | |||||
Good gear at the finger crack but a bit fiddly and pumpy to place.
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星期二 29th 12月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
23 | ★ Seven Veils - with Taner | 20m, 4 | |||||
Lol I aided lots of this. I need to go to slab school.
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星期二 29th 12月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
21 | ★★ Back in an Hour - with Alexander Pokrassen, Harrie Van de Linde | 20m, 6 | |||||
21 | ★★ Back in an Hour - with Timmy Wong, Alexander Pokrassen | 20m, 6 | |||||
rapped in from bottom of James. really not worth it. if we did the right climb, its crumbly, mossy, bushy and dusty. meh
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星期六 12th 12月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani The Monolith | |||||||
16 | ★ Morpheus - with Patrick Mulcahy | 18m | ★ 好 | ||||
星期五 4th 12月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
15 | ★★ Big Fun - with Luka Szczepanik | 25m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
The name tells you something.
Had placed a cam in the horizontal down low that caused terrible rope drag. Had to lower mid-route to unclip and fix. Otherwise excellent. |
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星期六 28th 11月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Sultan - with Will Spinelli | 65m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Really fun!
Led pitch 1 & 3.
Rested on first pitch.
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星期天 22nd 11月 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with Anthony Claxton | 18m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 |