Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mt Tibrogargan Slider Wall | |||||
10 | ★ The Fires of Jealousy
Pleasant climbing up good rock. Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 25m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles
Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM). Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête. 首攀: Scott Lawrence & Gary Meyrick, 1999 | 15m, 4 | |||
28 | ★ You win some you lose some
Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible. 首攀: Russell Bright & Peta Barrett, 2007 | 15m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Monkey Magic
Quality sustained crimpy climbing. Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain. 首攀: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin & Gary Meyrick, 1999 | 10m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Tripitaka
More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor shared with Pigsy. Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of Monkey Magic. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 14m | |||
21 | ★ Pigsy
Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka' Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts. 首攀: ross ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, susy goldner & A. Dougal, 2004 | 12m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Something About Sandy
Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'. Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 13m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ The Horse
Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'. Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB. 首攀: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 12m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Such A Nice Monster
Start: A further 10m up the gully. Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, M Smith & ross ferguson, 2004 | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ The Most Monstrous Monster
... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower. 首攀: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 13m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Even Monsters Can Be People
A hold has "appeared" at the crux making it much easier. Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially. 首攀: ross ferguson, 2005 | 14m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ The Vampire Master
Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds. Start: R of TMMM 首攀: ross ferguson, Cass Crane & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 10m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ What We Do in the Shadows
Start just to the right of The Vampire Master on some small crimps. Prepare your fingertips for some unbelievably small holds through the middle. Take care at the second bolt as a ground fall is possible. 定线/开线: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 20 11月 2016 首攀: Troy McAndrew, 8 3月 2023 | 9m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ A Shadow So Huge
Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows. Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain. 首攀: ross ferguson & Geoffrey, 2007 | 8m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Outrageous Coincidences
Start: 1m right of A Shadow So Huge. One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 8m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Magictrip
Climb the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic then head right clipping a connection bolt then finish up Tripitaka. 首攀: ross ferguson, 2007 | 20m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ The Minx And The Slug
Reversy-traversy. Start at 'Something about Sandy' and traverse across Pigsy, Tripitaka and 'Monkey Magic' before finishing at the chains of 'Blowing Bubbles' 首攀: ross ferguson & Geoffrey, 2007 | 12m | |||
24 | ★★ Monster Master
Start up SANM for 3 bolts then head right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM. 首攀: ross ferguson & Bill Strachan, 2007 | 20m, 8 | |||
22 | ★ What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman
Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts. Start: 5m L of the tree 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 8m, 3 | |||
14 | Monkey Swallows The Universe
Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires. 首攀: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 15m, 2 | |||
12 | Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven
Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain. Start: 5m down R of MSTU. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 20m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Bite My Shiny, Metal Ass
The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up. 首攀: Ryan Castel, 2014 | 18m | |||
20 | ★ Branigan's Law
Ringbolt then 4 FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off. 首攀: Ryan Castel & Natalie, 2005 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ The Robot Devil
Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top. Start: R of Brannigan's Law. 首攀: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel 首攀: Ryan Castel, 2005 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Procrastinator
A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean. Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 17m | |||
22 | ★★ Slider
Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air. Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards). 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2008 | 16m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★★ Squealer
An awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to a lower-off. Stick clipping advised if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Squealer traversed in from Howler). Start: From the first raised platform. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 21m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Madder
Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade. Start: Just R of 'Squealer' 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 15m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★★ Howler
Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously. Start: Just R of 'Madder' 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 1999 | 16m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Wailer
The right most line on the wall before the corner. Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ The Final Piece
Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position! 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 17m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Doctor Pinocchio
Climb up the gully at the right-hand end corner of the crag. follow up 'The Final Piece' to its 5th bolt. From here step right and then follow a further 4 fixed hangers up before joining back to The Final Piece anchor. 首攀: Russell Bright & ross ferguson, 2008 | 20m, 9 | |||
21 | ★★ Overseer
Long and pumpy climbing with great views. Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer. 首攀: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 27m, 11 | |||
24 | ★ Overseer Right Hand Variant
Same as for Overseer but follow the right most line of bolts. 首攀: ross ferguson, 2009 | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Swinger
A link up taking the line of least resistance. Start as for Squealer, crossing Slider and finishing up Procrastinator. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2005 | 19m | |||
22 | ★★ Procrastislider | 16m | |||
23 | ★★ Procrastisquealer
Same as for Procrastislider but continue right into Squealer and do it's crux and finish up this. | 18m, 8 | |||
24 | ★★ Procrastimadder
Same as for Procrastisquealer but traverse R and finish up Madder. | ||||
24 | ★★ Procrastihowler
Same as for Procrastisquealer but at the 6th bolt of Squealer bust right again across Madder and then power through the crux of Howler and up this. 首攀: Lee Cujes, 2005 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Procrastiwailer
Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line. 首攀: Lee Cujes, 2005 | 23m | |||
25 | ★★★ "A Little Madder"
Still needs cleaned stay off for now. Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder. 首攀: Russel Bright | 25m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Vigorous Procrastination
Climb Procrastiwailer but instead of finishing up it keep pumping across to Final Piece and continue riding the pump train to the anchors. 首攀: Adam Palmer, 2007 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Howler VF
Start Howler and join Madder for its last bolt. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 1999 | 16m | |||
25 | ★★ Wowler
Start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 18m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★★ Hybrid Vigour
A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 24m | |||
27 | ★★★ Pinocchio's Extension
As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that. | 28m | |||
27 | ★★★ Chain Reaction
As for Pinocchio's Extension but when you near the top of Doctor Pinocchio keep heading right to Overseer. 首攀: ross ferguson, 2008 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★ Geppetto
Climb As for Doctor Pinocchio but at it's last bolt traverse right into the crux of Overseer and finish up this. A long link-up with an epic view at the chains. 首攀: ross ferguson, 2008 | 30m | |||
28 | ★★★ The Forty Metre Mile
Pack your draws because this is a super link-up. Climbs the 1st and 2nd of Procrastinator, 2nd and 3rd of Slider, bolt 3, 4 and 5th of Squealer, 4th of Madder, 3rd of Howler, 4th and 5th of Wailer, 4th of The Final Piece and finish up this. Some long slings will help alleviate rope drag. 首攀: Duncan Steel † & Lee Cujes, 2006 | 30m, 15 | |||
28 | ★★ The Expedition
Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer. | 35m, 24 | |||
29 | ★★★ Departures
Yes it's a another mega linkup. Procrastislider to Slider's 2nd last bolt. Then across the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish up Dr Pinocchio. Superduperpooperpumper!!! 首攀: ross ferguson & Russ Bright, 2011 自由首攀: Tom O'Haloran, 2011 | 30m, 25 | |||
29 | ★★ Pandora
The longest and hardest Link-up of them all. Climb The Expedition, but finish up Overseer Right Hand Variant. Adds a resistance crux that's a heart breaker... 自由首攀: 2009 | 40m, 25 | |||
15 | Unknown
1
15
2
4
Originally climbed to access the top of Slider and Beyond.
首攀: Gareth Llewellin & Aaron Jones, 1999 | 35m, 2 | |||
V6 | ★★ Watermark
Just down and left of the upper routes. Awesome rock!! 首攀: Gareth Llewellin | 8m | |||
Mt Tibrogargan Celestial Wall | |||||
21 | ★ Fat Shamed by Gravity
1
21
2
19
Start 10m left of Troposphere P1 on flat ground on the track leading towards Slider Gully.
Currently, the best option is to rap from here, although you can climb up through the bit of bush and link it to the mixed climb NGFG. 首攀: Matt Hunter & Alex Cristino, 14 3月 2021 | 60m, 2, 20 | |||
17 | Never go full geartard
This climb starts 20m up and to the left of the 3rd pitch of "Troposphere" or directly above "Fat shamed by gravity". It is the obvious arete and it can be approached from either climb although most easily from FSBG. There is still a lot of loose rock including a couple of real show stoppers which are easily avoided. The climbing is fun but committing. Be careful of rope drag. This pitch will be better once it has cleaned up a little and be extra careful to not destroy people below by pulling off loose blocks. Start at the set of anchors for an unnamed sport climb just on the left of the arete although the belayer may prefer to stand down on the grassy ledge.
Rapping down to the base of the pitch and then down through bush to the anchors of "Fat shamed by gravity". 首攀: Matt Hunter & Hamish Ousby, 6 8月 2019 | 30m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Troposphere
1
15
30m
2
17
15m
3
18
15m
4
15
20m
5
16
30m
Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope. Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from. | 110m, 5 | |||
18 | C Section
Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's first pitch. Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name. To reduce the traverse's spice to 'mild', bring some medium cams to minimise the risk of a scary pendulum swing. 首攀: Phil Box & JJ O'Brien, 2007 | 25m | |||
19 | Rescision
Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's second pitch. Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start. 首攀: Phil Box, 2007 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Voyager
1
16
35m
2
21
12m
3
23
18m
4
17
30m
All protection is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is 10.
Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up from the belay and head right toward Halfway House. Once there, head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope. 首攀: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004 | 95m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Aphelion
1
16
35m
2
21
12m
3
22
30m
4
22
10m
Great climbing in a superb position. Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.
Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope. 首攀: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004 | 87m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Rubicon
1
18
45m
2
22
30m
3
22
10m
Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.
Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope. | 85m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Heliosphere
Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!). Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'. 首攀: Phil Box, 2004 | 35m | |||
The Man they couldn’t Shoot, Root or Electrocute
R of Zenith. Closed project for now. | |||||
24 | ★★ Zenith
Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station. Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit. 首攀: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004 | 25m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Latitudes
Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'. A long, exciting pitch. 首攀: Lee Cujes | 35m | |||
22 | ★ Vernal Equinox
Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'. The line directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off. 首攀: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004 | 28m, 11 | |||
20 | ★★ The Celestine Prophecy
1
16
2
19
3
17
4
20
5
20
A wild jaunt up some unlikely looking territory that deposits you on Halfway House ledge. Nice climbing movement with placements where you need them on some really amazing rock. Leader should be solid at the grade to avoid an epic. Take two racks of cams, one set of wires and rp's. Start right of Rubicon and 3m left of Clemency below orange cave.
自由首攀: Matt Fingleton & Rafael Miura, 18 4月 2021 | 75m, 5 | |||
Mt Tibrogargan Halfway House | |||||
21 | ★ Cunningly Deceptive
Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall. 自由首攀: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2003 | 25m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Rocketsauce
Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join Tenacious D to finish. 自由首攀: Lee Cujes, 2007 | 12m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Tenacious D
Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner. Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'. 首攀: Lee Cujes, 2007 | 12m, 6 | |||
17 | The Court Jester
1
14
2
17
自由首攀: Phil Box & Cameron Fairbairn, 2003 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ The Sword In The Stone
Start: At The Court Jester's anchor. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake. Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of The Court Jester. 自由首攀: Phil Box & Cameron Fairbairn, 2003 | 25m | |||
22 R | ★ Emu-less
Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge. 自由首攀: James Pfrunder, Phil Box & Pat Daly, 2003 | 12m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Gut Punch The Buddha
Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner to The Court Jester's anchor on ledge. 自由首攀: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2003 | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Maponus
1
22
2
23
自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2003 | 25m, 2, 2 | |||
25 | ★★ Dagda
Climb Maponus' first pitch but instead of heading left to The Court Jester's anchor continue directly up past three FH's to the anchor. Adds a lot more pump and air. 首攀: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003 | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Taranis
Link Up - Climb Voluptuous then at the last bolt head Left into the savage headwall of Dagda. | 20m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★★ Voluptuous
Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug, then perfect finger slots. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge with anchor. A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three bolts - has proved more popular now with five. 自由首攀: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2003 | 11m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Bargearse
Start: 1m R of Voluptuous Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake. 自由首攀: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2009 | 15m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★★ The Elite Republican Guard
Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated anchor. 自由首攀: Phil Box & Lee Cujes | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Hungry Beast
Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach. A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks. 自由首攀: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009 | 15m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Love, Honour and Belay
Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse. Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall. 自由首攀: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 2009 | 16m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me
The bolted orange corner. 首攀: Pat Daly, 2004 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★ Switch Blade Honey
Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read. 自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn | 30m | |||
26 | ★★★ Pigs In Space
One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner. 自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn | 30m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★★ DV8
DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003 | 30m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★★ Black Op's
Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then shares anchor with DV8. 自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn | 30m | |||
24 | ★ Storm Watch
Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap. 自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn | 30m | |||
17 | Spooky House
Climb Dreadnought's corner to the very top. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up for 15m looking for Storm Watch's anchor. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock. 自由首攀: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003 | 30m | |||
Mt Tibrogargan Clemency Wall | |||||
16 | ★★ Clemency
1
15
35m
2
16
30m
3
14
32m
4
12
35m
5
9
30m
6
11
30m
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track. 首攀: FA Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966 | 190m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Sent From Above
Or below... Access via Clemency's third pitch DBB then climb 5m L over mega choss with gear to ledge. Or rap in from Halfway House. To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m left from the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m. Five FH's with one exposed bouldery section to anchor. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb Apricots. 首攀: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006 | 12m, 5 | |||
16 | Apricots
Start from the Sent From Above anchor. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House. 首攀: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006 | 28m | |||
22 | ★★ The Mace
3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation. 首攀: Phil Box & Lee Skidmore, 2002 | 18m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Alienation
4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade. 首攀: Lee Skidmore & Phil Box, 2002 | 18m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Divergence
Start: At the "D", directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up, 2m L of Guenevere. Climb 4m up to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge and clip FH. Steep corner through bulge, then follow up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge with DBB from here you can continue up the Tested Twistical variants. 首攀: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002 | 20m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ The Twisticle Connection
1
19
20m
2
17/18
30m
3
22
20m
This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.
Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency. 首攀: Ben Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 70m, 3, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left)
This route starts from Divergence's anchor. Head straight up, past 2 FHs, then head L to white flake jug with Piton. Head straight up from here. Joins the 18 variant at small ledge. Clip 1 final FH just below the Caritas anchor. 首攀: Ben Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 35m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right)
This route starts from Divergence's anchor. Take the shallow corner, right, following the bolts, then up left, to a small ledge (rejoins the 17 here) & up to another ledge, from where you should be able to see the Caritas anchors and orange corner. Follow the FHs to the anchors at the start of Caritas. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 2005 | 35m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★★ Caritas
This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. Superb climbing. Up the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above. Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there. Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency. 首攀: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004 | 18m, 7 |