Vias em Glasshouse Mountains

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

Quality sustained crimpy climbing. Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor shared with Pigsy.

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of Monkey Magic.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower.

A hold has "appeared" at the crux making it much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

Start just to the right of The Vampire Master on some small crimps. Prepare your fingertips for some unbelievably small holds through the middle. Take care at the second bolt as a ground fall is possible.

Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows.

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: 1m right of A Shadow So Huge.

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Climb the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic then head right clipping a connection bolt then finish up Tripitaka.

Reversy-traversy.

Start at 'Something about Sandy' and traverse across Pigsy, Tripitaka and 'Monkey Magic' before finishing at the chains of 'Blowing Bubbles'

Start up SANM for 3 bolts then head right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU.

The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up.

Ringbolt then 4 FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law.

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

An awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to a lower-off. Stick clipping advised if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Squealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Climb up the gully at the right-hand end corner of the crag. follow up 'The Final Piece' to its 5th bolt. From here step right and then follow a further 4 fixed hangers up before joining back to The Final Piece anchor.

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer.

Same as for Overseer but follow the right most line of bolts.

A link up taking the line of least resistance. Start as for Squealer, crossing Slider and finishing up Procrastinator.

Start up Procrastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt. Finish the link-up at Slider's chains.

Same as for Procrastislider but continue right into Squealer and do it's crux and finish up this.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but traverse R and finish up Madder.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but at the 6th bolt of Squealer bust right again across Madder and then power through the crux of Howler and up this.

Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line.

Still needs cleaned stay off for now.

Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder.

Climb Procrastiwailer but instead of finishing up it keep pumping across to Final Piece and continue riding the pump train to the anchors.

Start Howler and join Madder for its last bolt.

Start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

As for Pinocchio's Extension but when you near the top of Doctor Pinocchio keep heading right to Overseer.

Climb As for Doctor Pinocchio but at it's last bolt traverse right into the crux of Overseer and finish up this. A long link-up with an epic view at the chains.

Pack your draws because this is a super link-up. Climbs the 1st and 2nd of Procrastinator, 2nd and 3rd of Slider, bolt 3, 4 and 5th of Squealer, 4th of Madder, 3rd of Howler, 4th and 5th of Wailer, 4th of The Final Piece and finish up this. Some long slings will help alleviate rope drag.

Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer.

Yes it's a another mega linkup. Procrastislider to Slider's 2nd last bolt. Then across the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish up Dr Pinocchio. Superduperpooperpumper!!!

The longest and hardest Link-up of them all. Climb The Expedition, but finish up Overseer Right Hand Variant. Adds a resistance crux that's a heart breaker...

Originally climbed to access the top of Slider and Beyond.

1. 20m (15) Start up between Slider & Squealer, utilising available trad placements, about 8-10m, till it's possible to traverse left (run-out) and up an angled ledge (good gear) to the top. Trad belay.

2. 15m (4) From here, up the slope to the chains on Howler & rap off.

Just down and left of the upper routes. Awesome rock!!

Start 10m left of Troposphere P1 on flat ground on the track leading towards Slider Gully.

1. 30m 21 - Up fairly easy ground past 3 bolts to the first ledge which has a hanging on top of it. Up 2 large steps to a bolt and a couple of jugs. Haul yourself upwards on easy but impressive feeling moves to a cardboard feeling jug. Clip the next bolt and work your way through the crux moves. Clip another bolt and then traverse left and up to the obvious ledge to the belay anchors. A tight but bomber 0.5 camalot protects the traverse for the second.

2. 28m 19 - Start out on easy ground up to an orange corner. Work your way up through the crux moves and a few more bolts. There is room to place another bomber 0.5 camalot to make the next section feel less run out, then up past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Currently, the best option is to rap from here, although you can climb up through the bit of bush and link it to the mixed climb NGFG.

This climb starts 20m up and to the left of the 3rd pitch of "Troposphere" or directly above "Fat shamed by gravity". It is the obvious arete and it can be approached from either climb although most easily from FSBG.

There is still a lot of loose rock including a couple of real show stoppers which are easily avoided. The climbing is fun but committing. Be careful of rope drag. This pitch will be better once it has cleaned up a little and be extra careful to not destroy people below by pulling off loose blocks.

Start at the set of anchors for an unnamed sport climb just on the left of the arete although the belayer may prefer to stand down on the grassy ledge.

1. Move up and right, finding a couple of C3 cam placements. Then push on through blocks while resisting placing any gear in bad rock. Climb past a bolt and a cruxy move. You will find some good gear for the next 5 or so metres and then bust out right around the corner to some more good gear. Plug it in and move up and slightly left past some not inspiring placements on fairly easy ground to finally arrive at the anchors.

Rapping down to the base of the pitch and then down through bush to the anchors of "Fat shamed by gravity".

1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's first pitch.

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name. To reduce the traverse's spice to 'mild', bring some medium cams to minimise the risk of a scary pendulum swing.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's second pitch.

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

All protection is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is 10.

1. 35m (16) First pitch is the same as Aphelion pitch 1.

2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up Left. Powerful.

3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. A tricky little bouldering sequence.

4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up from the belay and head right toward Halfway House. Once there, head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.

1. 35m (16) At mark climb slightly left to first FH. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. The fifth bolt is invisible. When the way appears blocked by a ferny ledge, climb onto the ledge via its left side and it should become apparent.

2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on pedestal.

3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.

1. 45m (18) 15 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'.

R of Zenith. Closed project for now.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

A long, exciting pitch.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

The line directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

A wild jaunt up some unlikely looking territory that deposits you on Halfway House ledge. Nice climbing movement with placements where you need them on some really amazing rock. Leader should be solid at the grade to avoid an epic. Take two racks of cams, one set of wires and rp's.

Start right of Rubicon and 3m left of Clemency below orange cave.

1. 15m (16) Climb delicately trending slightly leftwards heading for sloping block at small ledge at base of vertical wall. Some solid placements if you search around. Trad belay at base of block. Note: beware large detatched block to right of belay.

2. 15m (19) Mount block and dont miss RP placement at chest height before balancing straight up the wall on sidepulls and high feet heading for left side of orange cave. Trad belay in large crack on left end.

3. 15m (17) Step left from belay to lip of cave and head straight up through steep blockiness on great rock until you reach Rubicons' first bolted belay on left.

4. 20m (Crux) (20) Step right from belay to steep groove right of arete and straight up. This pitch has some fantastic movement on great rock. Head straight up staying right of the arete to belay from small crack at back wall of orange alcove.

5. 10m (20) Trend diagonally left up headwall to surmount large bulge 5m right of Rubicons exiting moves. Hand traverse the lip until reaching a spot to mantle onto ramp. Head left to belay from Rubicons' final bolted belay.

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.

Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall.

Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join Tenacious D to finish.

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

1. Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared anchor on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

2. Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find anchor underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

Start: At The Court Jester's anchor.

Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake. Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of The Court Jester.

Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

Start: At the landmark roof.

The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner to The Court Jester's anchor on ledge.

1. 12m (22) Start 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Buddha, The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge the shares a anchor with The Court Jester's first pitch.

2. 25m (23) Directly above anchor. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides the anchor. 35m rap to the terrace, or a short rap to Dagda's anchors, then 25m to ground.

Climb Maponus' first pitch but instead of heading left to The Court Jester's anchor continue directly up past three FH's to the anchor. Adds a lot more pump and air.

Link Up - Climb Voluptuous then at the last bolt head Left into the savage headwall of Dagda.

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak.

A high pull-on jug, then perfect finger slots. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge with anchor. A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three bolts - has proved more popular now with five.

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous

Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge.

Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated anchor.

Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach.

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks.

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse.

Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall.

The bolted orange corner.

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting.

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then shares anchor with DV8.

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line.

The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

Climb Dreadnought's corner to the very top. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up for 15m looking for Storm Watch's anchor. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 43m rap to ground, 80m rope reaches on stretch).

3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field.

A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

Or below... Access via Clemency's third pitch DBB then climb 5m L over mega choss with gear to ledge. Or rap in from Halfway House.

To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m left from the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m.

Five FH's with one exposed bouldery section to anchor. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb Apricots.

Start from the Sent From Above anchor. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House.

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

Start: At the "D", directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up, 2m L of Guenevere.

Climb 4m up to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge and clip FH. Steep corner through bulge, then follow up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge with DBB from here you can continue up the Tested Twistical variants.

This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.

1. 20m Climb Divergence then choose one of the following.

2. 35m Climb Tested Twistical (Left) 17 or Tested Twisticle (Right) 18

3. 18m Climb Caritas.

Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency.

This route starts from Divergence's anchor.

Head straight up, past 2 FHs, then head L to white flake jug with Piton. Head straight up from here. Joins the 18 variant at small ledge. Clip 1 final FH just below the Caritas anchor.

This route starts from Divergence's anchor.

Take the shallow corner, right, following the bolts, then up left, to a small ledge (rejoins the 17 here) & up to another ledge, from where you should be able to see the Caritas anchors and orange corner. Follow the FHs to the anchors at the start of Caritas.

This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. Superb climbing. Up the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.