Cut Lunch Walls Rock climbing 25 线路 在 岩场中

Watch for the angry bat that lives in a pocket near the top! Up Raindancer to the RB. Step left and easily up the corner keeping an eye out for the biting pockets. Belay below Malcolm's Crack on trad. Rap off tree to descend.

FHs up wall left of arete. Swing left on flake (ring bolt) then up very juggy wall which thins to a big crux move. At the top of the pillar head right to double ring anchor (used as descent anchor for Upper Cut Lunch Wall).

"I really felt like a proper climber that day" Jon Bassindale. Amazingly both pitches of this route were claimed as new routes years later.

Start: Starts as for 'Raindancer' at the arete with the big trench below.

1. 20m (18) Lean across the zawn, clip first bolt on Randancer and climb the overhanging arête to the terrace on trad. In 1992 Peter Stebbins placed the now bent and rusted BR and claimed the pitch as Salad Abuse (20).

2. 40m (22) Bring RP's and expect runouts. Walk to the left end of the terrace and drop down to belay on the right of the big red wall. Traverse left to a big mushroom on a ledge. Up and slightly right, then head for the big hanging corner crack and thence the top. In 1997 Goshen Watts repeated the route thinking he was doing a new climb, calling it Lucky Jesus 'Houdini' Rex (23).

Ring bolted sport route climbing the face just right of arete. This is the best way to get to the Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls' ledge. Tricky start up left facing flake, then easier grey wall to top.

In memory of the controversial letter writer from the mid 00s. Needs a couple of bolts as it was climbed on pre-placed wires. Start 8m right of 'Raindancer' below short steep corner.

The easy way to the Upper Cut Lunch Wall's fabulous sport routes. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts on small rock about 10m left of the Salad Abuse arête.

A good route for a belay slave. Soloed on first ascent due to impatience for a belay! Hard to locate for first timers. Thin face with three rings on east facing side of chasm 10m down and to the right of The Big Payback. Bridging against the back wall up high is to be avoided. Best way to approach is to climb the first half of Access Route. Lower off last RB or belay on ledge above on trad.

Nails hard reach crux which is way out of keeping with the rest of this route. Superb orange left facing corner on the right side of Lower 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Another good find by Dave Vass.

Start: The start is marked.

More like a Lindorff grade 20! Starting as for The Snatch, but climb straight up to the roof crack. Grab the perfect thread hold and thrash leftwards using every traditional trick in the book to gain the lip. Up the juggy offwidth to ledge and finish up left wall.

Start: Start about 50m right of 'The Snatch' below a buttress with an 'obvious' undercling flake.

1. 40m (18) Up to flake then up right onto top of buttress, then easy slab.

2. 20m (18) Shift belay to base of the corner up right, then climb corner.

He's good at climbing them, but hopeless at naming them! The finger crack with a bulge down low on the far left end of Upper Cut Lunch Walls to anchor.

Bouldery climbing on orange scoops. Please read the Bible to continuous improvement.

To access the start, scramble from the main ledge down to a lower tier.

2001 was a glorious time to work in the postal service. FHs up wall 3m left of 'Twisted Horizons'. Just an average filler route. Be careful of loose rock.

Superb climbing on perfect rock which is slightly spoilt by the ledge midway up. Good training for 'Taipan'. The scene of a few tantrums as the moves are not obvious. Start slightly left of 'Tender Hooks'.

Good training for 'Taipan'. One of the bolts pulled out after Neil had dogged his way up this! It has since been replaced. Central rib feature with small rooflet down low about 5m left of 'The Big Payback'.