条目 in Victoria Range

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Far northern end of the 'Victoria' Ranges. Has a collection of the most brilliant mid-twenties climbs in the country.

Awesome wall climbing plus a few slab routes, faces more or less direct east, morning sun / afternoon shade. First bolt on all routes placed for stick clip.

Shares first four bolts of No Feet, No Head, No Hands, then steps out left, bouldery moves up slab to 'plates' then slabby moves on slopers to lower off.

Black slab on left of main face. Bridge up to slab, fun climbing staying just left of and on arete

CLOSED PROJECT Starts on left arete, diagonal rising traverse finishing at Pirate Life lower off

STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start a few metres right of left arête of main wall, thin moves directly up past first bolt (crux) to jugs and second bolt on Rising Tide. Diagonally left to stance on arête then up past small alcove and slopey jugs to lower off

Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!!

Next in line of the Galleon three star trio! Another fantastic route on crimps, sidepulls and slopers...Enjoy!! Line left of Kingdom of Fear, then finishes up and right on jugs to same lower off for KoF.

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Gets the blood moving - Centre line starting off top of rock fin, through black streaked bulge to lower off.

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

This 45m high buttress is located up and right of The Lost World, directly behind a nice steep orange face (kind of looks like it should be part of that cliff from the road until you start walking up to it and realise it's separated). Climbing potential here is sadly limited however. Crag is only with the Vic Range RNA.

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m)

2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's Theory to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimedes' Principle, finishing as for that route.

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

RNA (Remote and Natural Area). Already reviewed, with no access forthcoming. Eureka is outside of CV33.

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

2. 30m (25) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this pitch.

Start: Start as for AP

1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

RNA (Remote and Natural Area). Already reviewed, with no access forthcoming. Eureka is outside of CV33.

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

RNA

5 metres R of 'Return to Gariwerd'. Start off small rock, tricky start on thin seams and opposing side pulls, easing upwards to great rounded holds. Belay off chicken heads.

Lovely climbing with excellent protection.

Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes:

Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends).

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

Nice sport climbing venue near Eureka. There is a good range of grades but the cliff is best 23 and above. If you have not been to Eureka, please do yourself a favour and go as it's an amazing cliff.

The proud bulging orange buttress that is first reached on the walk-in. The major line through the dark orange bulges on the left side is Highly Evolved.

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

The following routes are on the major cliffline above High Evolved. Access by scrambling up grey jug wall (grade 3?). Please use fixed line on right side. Please use fixed ropes when scrambling around. An abseil station is located next to Shallow Waters start. Alternatively you can walk in via left or right hand side.

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

Starts on right side of grey face. The tree is now gone. Batman off first bolt or traverse in from left (grade 15?)

Climbs much better than it looks, a great overlooked route for those who's brain starts to fade after clipping too many bolts. Starts a few m right of Plat Du Jour at bouldery overhang. Straight up this and wall (small wires) to arete and hollow flake. Make a move R, and up short corner to amazing diagonal line (wires / small-med cams). Along this to finish at the anchor of Phil's project.

Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour

Starts 3m left of Trouble Cut. Unlikely.

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

Grey seam on Upper Tier

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

The bolted corner.

Thin face 3m right if Brighten the Corners.

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Starts up OOTS then girdles uncontrollably leftwards.

Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face.

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6

Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts.

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

The far right. Starts on a slab.

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

The existing route doesn't warrant the walk. In CV33.

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

2. 20m (1) Up.

A stunning orange pillar east of and below "Eureka Wall" and clearly visible from the Jananginj Jawi track. A vague animal pad leads up to the cliff.

The left arete of the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

The spectacular right arete.

The name appears apt. There are vast quantities of un-appealing rock with one or two better bits poking out.

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver.

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant at same grade is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse.

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, Thin, technical start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to central lower off.

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete

Pleasant face on the left near the top of the gully. Step left off boulder and up.

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.