条目 in Victoria Range

The thin crack in the middle of 'Goldfinger' Wall has a problematic layback start leading to energy-sapping jugs.

If you haven't got a bed to get out the wrong side of.

Vague line 2 metres right of Goldilocks.

We have all used the occasional tree for assistance but this climb is half over by the time you're out of it. Climb the curving tree right of Goldilocks until it is possible to step onto the wall beneath a break in the bulge. Climb over the bulge and continue diagonally left.

Enjoyable crack at the right-hand end of "Goldfinger Wall".

A good trad-climbing cliff with a variety of climbs in the middle grades and a short approach. It would be a good morning destination on a warm day.

There are a fair number of loose blocks lurking and some patches of poor rock so take care. Some of the climb names reflect these risks. Helmets are a good idea.

Worthless leftover. Down on the main face, at the left side is a black wall just left of an undercut section.

Take the groove on the left side of the black wall, heading slightly left to stay out of the gully continuation.

Wandering, with loose blocks. Start a metre or two right of Vestigial Remnant, 1 metre left of the beginning of the undercut section. Up diagonally right for 10 metres then go left a little to a flake on the right edge of the black rock. Up and right to finish through loose-looking blocks. Scramble off with care.

Some people will do anything to get their name on a crag. A more direct version of "Dead Ignorance". Start 3 metres right of Dead Ignorance and go straight up the buttress right of the black wall. Finish just left of a large prow.

Not quite the offwidth one is expecting; not at all bad. Originally done in two pitches.

Start in much the same place as Collector's Item, a couple of metres right of the left end of the undercut section.

Move up then go right just above the undercut to gain the lowest and leftmost of the diagonals. Steep climbing leads to an exit right into a guano-stained niche (belay on first ascent). Follow the line above with good moves around the bulge.

Good climbing with a fingery start. Start at the pocketed scoop 6 metres right of Rainbow Road. Difficult climbing through the pocketed scoop. Above, move right into the diagonal right of Rainbow Road and follow it.

Serious, contrived crux section can be avoided.

Start: Start at the next clear spot at the base of the cliff, 10 metres right of "Another Roadside Attraction".

1. 20m (-) Up to belay just left of an easy corner system.

2. 18m (23) Go up the thin corner for 2 metres then straight up the wall with shaky protection. It is far easier and more natural to move right and then back left with many runners.

Excellent climbing along the largest of the diagonals.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Peace, Love And Happiness".

1. 20m (19) Go up until it is possible to start a rising leftward traverse. Surmount the bulge and continue to a stance above loose blocks at the base of the diagonal proper.

2. 20m (19) The diagonal crack. A step right at 15 metres avoids a hard section.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Making Movies" at the right-hand end of the undercut, 12 metres left of "English Heatwave".

1. 20m (14) Use a tree to gain the face. Continue up, then tend left to join a left-leaning, wide crack. Follow the crack to a recess.

2. 15m (14) Move left for 3 metres and go up the diagonal cracks through the overhanging wall. Immediately travers right and move up a little to a good ledge.

3. 30m (-) The juggy wall leads up right to the top.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Move steeply up the wall to confront the purplish-coloured overhang with a crack through it. Pass the overhang and climb the juggy but tiring wall to a large ledge. Easily to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "Mae West" and 5 metres left of "Pebble Finish"

An airy route taking the left arete of the huge corner.

1. 20m (-) Up the arete and the face on the left to a ledge.

2. 30m (-) Diagonally left and then up to a good ledge.

3. 18m (19) Diagonally right to a weakness in the bulge. Up and over.

The huge corner near the right end of the main face. Some doubtful rock.

1. 20m (16) The blocky chimney leading to the base of the corner.

2. 50m (16) Up the corner, steeply at first then more easily to an overhanging chimney that leads to a ledge.Move left and finish up a short corner.

Portable belays take note.

Start: Start as for "English Heatwave".

1. 20m (-) The blocky chimney of "English Heatwave".

2. 25m (20) Go right and into the alcove. Climb rightward through the bulge and up to belay in a corner on the right below roofs.

3. 10m (20) Go left 3 metres and over the roofs, just left of the widest point.

Start: Find "War Is Hell" and start 3 metres left of it; that is 2 metres right of "English Heatwave".

1. 25m (21) Climb up into the shallow corner and follow it to the left side of the roof. 'Layback' through the roof and up right to belay on the arete.

2. 25m (19) Pull through the bulge on the arete and go diagonally left through the cave roof system. If your forearms are pumped the roofs can be avoided.

So-so. Everything is two grades harder than it looks.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "English Heatwave" ata steep orange face with a roof and corner line.

1. 25m (20) Climb up the right side of the orange roof and up the corner-line to a ledge on the left.

2. 25m (18) Go out left and up a corner-line to a ledge on the left. Or, easier,go right and up the line and easy stuff.

Moss city.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "War Is Hell", 10 metres right of "English Heatwave".

1. 30m (10) Straight up moss to finally belay on small ledge.

2. 20m (-) Move right for 5 metres and continue straight up on jugs to terrace.

Start: Start about 5 metres right of "Peregrination" where a short crack slants up left through steep rock.

1. 20m (12) Up the crack and then left a little to a thin vertical crack which is followed to a good ledge on the right.

2. 20m (12) The weakness diagonally left for 15 metres. Traverse out right to front of buttress, veer up and right to the top.

Start just right of "Cranker's Wamp" just before the rock becomes much smoother. Climb the faint groove, tending right to the top.

Looks reasonable.

Start a few metres right of "Swinging Couples" at a short slab-corner.

Go left and up to the top of the slab, then step right and go up the line.

Two hard sections and some obscure moves.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Bored Of Discipline", 1-2 mteres left of the next obvious break.

Go up a thin face through an area of weird 45-degree strata and then up a fine line on grey rock with a hard sit-down(!) move. Now easily on.

Apparently Mikl was leaving this for the foxy team. Sadly, they didn't make it and it was left for Terry to claw past their chalk a year later in bitter weather.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Dirk Strutter' at a break in the overhang.

Climb the break in the overhang and step right into the left-leaning corner. Climb the corner to easy finish.

Pumpy. Dangerous to second as it parallels the hillside for a time.

Start 2 metres right of "Winter Chills"

Go diagonally right up the corner and around the roof. Layback the delicate flake leading left and up.

Climb diagonally left below the overhangs until you can pull through on jugs. Go up easily to the final bulge where things pep up a bit.

Start: Right of "Dum Dum Daze" and left of the descent chimney, a slab slants up left.

Pretty pumpy. Sort of like 'The Gallery' without the fixed gear. About 80 metres up the hillside is a steep wall.

Start 4 metres left of "Pump It Up". The remains of an old fireplace may still be visible here.

Climb the wall, moving right to within 1 metre of Pump It Up below the final bulge. Pull over the bulge and hand-traverse left to the corner. Now motor out the 3-4 metre roof.

Really steep and good.

Go straight up to the notch at the right-hand end of the roof.

Lizardry Outcrop is across right (south) from the main crag boasting a prominent roof and corner system.

Left of the main corner system is a compact orange wall. Start on nose below an obvious break in the bulge at half-height. Pull up[ right then back left onto pedestal. Tackle wall then continue up and over crack in bulge. Easier climbing leads left and up. (The obvious finish up the break in the arete has atrocious rock and poor protection)

Climb up the weakness in the wall to a ledge. Step right and go up the corner. Traverse 2 metres right just below a loose block and then go up to where you can escape or climb a left-leading flake into the crack above the roof and go up this crack.

Start: Start below and just left of a corner on the right wall of the big corner.

Slope up the wall and climb the bulge. Continue up the wall and finish directly over the top overhang.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Lizardry' below a cracked bulge at 4 metres.

Roadside Prow is 50 metres or so right of the Lizardry outcrop, a pinnacle with a steep orange prow facing the road.

Climb steeply past good horizontals to orange turret. Step left then up to finish.

Start: Start on the left side of the south face, just right of orange prow.

Climb the right side of the wall right of 'Sink The Slipper'.

Quite sustained and steeper than it looks.

Start: Start on the next wall right and uphill from Roadside Prow.

Climb seams on left side of wall until an awkward move right gains a finger crack. Up to horizontal, step left and pull up on good edges. Buckets appear soon after.

Small crag uphill and directly behind the 'Lizardry' outcrop.

The flakes, moving left into an open crack to finish.

Start: Start at small break in wall 1 metre left of "Birdie's Perch"

Flake to overlap, moving left to finish up flake.

Start: Start at small flake 1 metre left of "Urban Paranoia"

Traverse delicately right below bulge. Climb crack through bulge with easier moves to finish.

Start: Starts under the nose on the left side of the compact front wall.

Initial corner then crack/corner 4 metres right of "Urban Paranoia"

Start: Start as for "Urban Paranoia"

Start at a short corner. Good steep climbing up the right arete.

Compact grey and orange wall with distinctive pillars uphill and behind Roadside Prow etc. Large pockets high up on the right end are a feature.

"Pot-hole never felt so good."

Start: Towards the righe end, scramble up to terrace.

Climb the ragged flake to right-leading crack. Pull onto beautiful grey, pocketed wall and go up.

Argus May 95

Argus May 95

Three tiers of rock across saddle and about 1 km in from roadside Crag. Best approached up the creek below 'Pot Wall' and to the south of 'Roadside Crag'.

Good climbing with a bold crux on the upper tier.

Climb the obvious right-leading crack to the bulge, reach around bulge (crux), then continue up wall above.

Start on left-hand side of wall of the main tier. Climb wall just right of arete.

Traverse right then up to gain right-veering crack. Up crack to take bulge on left.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "The Cut-Throat Business Of Haberdashery"

The prominent line 5 metres right of "Real Life".

Climb the right-curving flake-line to bulges. Continue straight up.

Take faint line in middle of cliff to ledge.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Salt Water Wells In My Eyes"

On the first grey wall on the lower, broken wall. Climb to horizontal, up flake, step right and up.

Climb the wall 1 metre right of "Dances With hakea" past a small blank crack.

Geddit? The next wall down has a pillar forming its left arete. Climb the crack 1 metre right of the arete.

Prominent right-veering crack about 50 metres downhill and right of the other climbs.

Slab moves lead to thin crack. Climb crack to flakey jugs.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Just Do It"

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Start through steep orange bulges veering left. Move right to grey face. Slab moves to central seamy crack. Up crack to roof, exit right.

A substantial cliff with one major line amongst a sea of choss. Little further potential, but the existing 2 climb are worth a visit.

Potentially a 'Grampians' classic taking the huge, right-facing sickle in the middle of the cliff.

1. 50m (19) Climb the corner, occasionally on the right wall, to the roof. Now traverse right.

2. 15m (-) Go up to the next roof and traverse left.

3. 50m (-) Jugs.

A surprisingly good route on mostly clean diagonal line on the L wall (looking up) of the main descent gully. About halfway up - locate large left leading diagonal lines. Climb takes the thin face that leads into main diagonal. Obvious crack on the L could be an easier alternate to the somewhat desperate first pitch.

1. 20m 21, Tricky start, 2m R of diagonal corner/crack. Climb into the line from the R, then straight up pumpy wall into the wide left leading crack.

2. 25m 17, Nice pitch that is better and easier than appearances would suggest. Continues along the diagonal under roof, until easy wall leads to top. Easy scramble down the back.

Short, remotes climbs with a reasonably long walk. These first climbs are not actually in the gorge and there is (allegedly) further potential upstream. If Neil Barr is to be believed, the area is worthless.

The shallow box corner on the right side of the overhanging face.

Straight up wall, over ledge and wall behind.

Start: Start on the left side of small face at the left end of the outcrop.

Diagonally out right and over bulge just left of arete. Over ledge then follow wall just left of arete.

Start: Start as for Lizane's Valentine.

Continue a further 15 minutes further up the creek from New Romantic to an orange buttress on right, about 160m downstream from the start of the gorge. Gr 089520. Total access time around 50 minutes. (There is another orange buttress about 60m further upstream, that is, about 100m from the start of the gorge.)

Start about 15m right of orange overhangs. Up right facing corner to large ledge at third height. Continue up corner, passing overhang by stepping left onto ledge then back into corner.

Short climbs on good rock in a remote setting. The original approach directions were claimed to be "hard to follow on a map". There was a good reason for that, apart from being complex they at one point sent people off due west rather than east. The access has been reviewed (May 2010). The directions appear complex but it's not too bad. Tracks are suitable for 2WD vehicle with care when it is dry, but could get very boggy in winter.

Nice. Vague line on nose.

Gem.

Start: Start at line one metre left of 'Face Full Of Black Boys'.

Up line, left to next line and up.

Good. Line from cave left of 'Pedestrian Crossing'.

Arete of clean wall above platform around left of 'Shaggy Dog Stories'.

The next routes are on an attractive orange wall just to the right of the creek and waterfall.

Solid jamming solves the crack lust left of the arete. At the horizontal, traverse left and climb the crack and wall to its right. Step right to exit.

Climb the ragged crack left of Big Mac to the horizontal break. Step right and continue up the crack, a few metres left of Big Mac's final crack to a tricky exit. Watch out for loose blocks.

The cliffs on the east side of the southern 'Victoria' range sit high above 'Bullawin Road' and have tough approaches.

Remote climbing high on the range. The existing climbs don't look too good but there is potential, but it's a tough approach.

All pitches about the same grade.

1. 25m (15) Go up and right then back left a move or two and follow the obvious traverse line to a tree below a huge, right-facing corner.

2. 35m (15) The corner to a terrace.

3. 30m (15) Up and right to a ledge below a mega ceiling.Go right to a crack with a tree. Up the wall, veering right

1. 20m (-) Go up and right then go straight up the crack above to a ledge on the left under a ceiling.

2. 30m (17) Go out right around the ceiling and up the steep crack above in an excellent position to the highest terrace. This pitch was split on the first ascent.

3. 10m (-) Up the rotten, flaky black crack.

1. 25m (-) Go up and right for 4 metres then traverse right at the obvious weakness to a ledge below a large right-facing corner.

2. 30m (-) Go up blocks etc. to the foot of a superb corner-crack which is climbed to a tree.

3. 15m (-) Continue up the line, past a bush, to another tree.

4. 15m (17) Up the steep crack with a nasty exit.

Three levels of cliff can be seen a little south of 'Crawfords Crag'. It is generally disappointing with few lines and little to interest climbers. Mr Gavin owned properties below the cliffs

Towards the left-hand end of the cliff is a compact wall with an obvious crack line. Up the line to the roof, left unde the roof and up.

Not the remotest crag in Gariwerd but it's not far from it. Definitely an adventure crag, set high up in the lonely southern 'Victoria Range'. Best visited in the cooler months to avoid being cooked.

When descending the large blocks of scree rolling about your ankles is unsettling.

A big adventure route with a poorly-protected crux pitch. The sheer effort required to for the three trips to make the free ascent demands respect.

Start: Towards the right-hand end of the northern-most crag is a wide corner system with an impressive left wall in the upper part. Start about 15 metres left of the corner itself, where the cliff is at its lowest.

1. 40m (16) Up to the right of the overhangs at 10 metres. Move left through a slot between overhangs, go up over another bulge to better rock and up the rounded arete to a large ledge. The variant start is better.

2. 25m (-) Either straight up the left-facing corner to the roof and swing right, or up the outside of the pillar and move left to the right-facing corner. climb the corner to a ledge on the left.

3. 40m (18) Poor protection. Up the thin crack for 6 metres, traverse right and climb a short, delicate wall to a bottomless, right-facing corner. Up this corner and then diagonally right into the V-corner leading to the right.

4. 25m (-) Climb up to the first overhang. Crawl left (loose block), go up to the second overhang and up it (may be an old cam in place) and into a right-facing corner.

5. 15m (-) Up.

Better Than the original start. Start 10 metres to the left up an easy line. At 5 metres go diagonally right and up the grey wall to a shallow, left-facing corner that leads to the large ledge.

A ripsnorter of a route. Despite having quite a bit of easier climbing it is constantly clean and offers some spectacular exposure.

Start: Scramble up from the little camping cave left of 'Lambs To The Slaughter' to a large ledge from which two obvious parallel lines start.

1. 20m (-) Follow the right-hand line to a little ledge on the right.

2. 17m (-) Traverse easily right for a few metres then go up to an obvious horizontal break. Continue traversing around the arete to a small stance.

3. 20m (20) Step back left and head straight up to a large roof. Move right under this to an exposed belay.

4. 15m (-) Climb straight up to the final large roof and then traverse spectacularly back left. Finish up the steep, juggy wall.

Start: Scramble to the highest block below the left-leaning crackline on the left buttress. There is a fork in the line at half-height.

1. 30m (-) Take the line through the roof and continue to a good ledge on the left.

2. 25m (17) Take the roof crack on the left and go up through an unusual narrowing to a corner leading to a scrubby ledge. Scamble off.

Up left of rooflet and up righthand crack to tree. Step up left to stance then swing on to arete to buckets. Thin and gritty climbing leads to top.

Start: Scramble on to terrace towards south (left) side of crag.

Climb the poorly protected wall right of Any Old Choss Just Don't Do Wuss!. Finish up the steep central crack on good holds and much better pro.