条目 in Victoria Range

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system.

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area.

Start a little left of where the track reaches the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system.

Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

3m R of DH up the pocketed wall and onto the arete and follow this all the way to the anchors of DH

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. The hangers work loose with frequent ascents so taking a shifting spanner in to tighten them after an ascent is worthwhile.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, right of Hysteria Lane.

Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained and followed.

Now completely superseded.

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start at the little face at on the right side of the gully.

Face past 4 bolts. Easy ground then up left side of arete to anchors.

Follow prominent sharp arete that is 10m to the west of Mailorder Bribe. Some loose blocks and fragile rock, but otherwise a nice line. Can be done in one long pitch or split into two pitches.

The crag contains a major indigenous art site and climbing should not take place.

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached.

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

Slab then chockstones just right of "Shiver's Slab".

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

The best line on the cliff

On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof.

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

This shady large face has some very unique and sustained routes up remarkable grey rock in a similar, but easier style to nearby 'Eureka Wall'. Many of the routes feel like extended gritstone classics (but with better protection!).

Bring a spare rope for descent off the longer routes. A full trad rack should be carried, including some larger cams. Don't forget the bolt plates!

The cliff comes into the shade quite early in the morning, and stays that way for the rest of the day. Perfect in summer, miserable and wet in winter.

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

Excellent grey wall five metres right of the arête of Up The Road. Start in juggy corner on right side of wall and climb this until you can hand traverse left along break at 3m. Climb the face above trending leftwards to finish up beautiful cracked headwall. Protection is sparse in middle section.

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and technical wall with an exposed finish. Start at the base of ramp a little left of Gibber. Stem shallow corner to BR and pockets. Up past 2nd BR and more pockets to horizontal line. Right leading flake passed 3 FH's gains face just left of arête. Up superb face with small wires and cams before arête can be gained. Finish up arête.

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperately onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

Sustained thin wall climbing up a slightly overhung face. Same start as Picking Plums but head right along juggy break past RB then follow further five RB¹s up crimpy wall to DRB anchor. Fourth RB is hard to clip.

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is abundant but fiddly in shallow, scoopy cracks. Rap anchor.

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

Great old school - new school crag of mixed and adventure climbing. Within the RNA, but outside of the SPA's.

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

Traverses the headwall to the R of OF. Excellent rock and climbing. Gear is adequate (take cams to size 3, incl micro cams).

1. 20m, Wander up slab, to belay just past R end of roof.

2. 20m, Up weakness to gain left leading horizontals which are ascended gradually to gain white streak which leads easily to final traverse L below summit roof. Go all the way, and Rap as for OF.

2m right of LBL,

1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat.

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

Rightward horizontal break

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

2 bolts and trad.

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

Adds a harder, more engaging finish to Pacaraima. Where the original climbs heads back leftward, head up right instead (past 2 more bolt runners). Rap chains where the angle and the climbing ease significantly.

At the major gully that is encountered a few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, head downhill to a steep east-facing wall. About 30-35m downhill is the start of a rightward-leading diagonal line. Climb up a few metres to a bolt runner, then carefully up rightward (trad gear) following the line to a major break that slices diagonally across the wall from low right to high left. Follow the break up leftward for approximately 4 or 5m and easily for a few more metres up the slabby stuff above. Trad belay. Scramble off up left.

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

An impressive effort – Malcolm, as is his want, made sure each piece of gear (except the fixed piton) was placed on lead. A few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, there is a major gully. Follow the right side of this gully uphill, initially past a couple of sports routes (Valley of Fear and Jurassic Adventures) and onward about another 50m to a striking diagonal overhanging crack/seam. Follow the relentlessly overhanging pocketed seam; trad gear with one fixed pin to a double bolt anchor.

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

Quite a moderate route for such an enormous buttress, with only a few hard moves and plenty of gear. Take plenty of nuts and slings; but leave your micro and large cams behind!

1. 1. Delightful for the grade. Start about 15m R of Indiana Jones, take a L leading line of your choice, then up Arete to same belay as for IJ.

2. Crux; wonderfully long and exposed. Head out left, and where IJ goes up, keep going left across top of flake via a committing move. Keep the rising traverse going until the roof angle lessens, and you can gain the headwall above (don't go up through roof too early).

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

1. 30m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

2. 25m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

Takes the left hand of two water streaks up toward the top left of the Go-Between wall. Starts about 20-25m up The Go-Between, immediately below the left hand of the two prominent water streaks. Climb the water streak to the little roofline and the jugs beyond to the top.

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

Closed Project Please Stay off.

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

The Yanganaginj Njawi (Emus' foot) track is a closed to vehicle track at all times of the year. This is regardless of whether it is locked or signed as "Closed". Please do not drive around the gate or through if open. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere. Discussions with Land Managers are still in progress.

The Yanganaginj Njawi (Emus' foot) track is a closed to vehicle track at all times of the year. This is regardless of whether it is locked or signed as "Closed". Please do not drive around the gate or through if open. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere. Discussions with Land Managers are still in progress.

8 move cliff, no top out.

While the Vic Range has a high concentration of Cultural Values (and all care must be taken at all crags), the Mt Fox area is within the NV8 (potential Rock Wallaby site), and not within any of the Cultural Value SPA's in the area.

Nice little crag sitting above the junction of Red Rock Road and Emu Foot Track. RNA (outside of NV8).