线路 in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest moderate multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the left side of a major buttress, generally staying a few metres R of Moonlight Corner.

Access by either abseil (via Date with Density raps) or walk in (check access description for this area).

Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density (8-10m left of where the abseil lands). It’s worth taking a good look up the corner before you start; if pitch 1 is a bit seepy but climbable, the corner sections of pitches 3&4 may be soaking wet and unclimbable.

1. 20m (23) - Enjoyable face and arete climbing.

2. 30m (25) - A brilliant pitch of thought provoking slab climbing. Originally graded 24 and probably not dissimilar in style or difficulty to many other old school 24's around the Mountains. From the belay ledge make your way slightly right and up following the meandering line of bolts up the beautiful orange slab. (An additional bolt has been added to this pitch due to concern around a potential ledge fall. The pitch remains sportingly bolted yet safe.)

3. 20m (24) - A short but technical pitch. From the belay head left and climb the face and arete to the base of a small rooflet. At this point climb around the arete and make your way up the face and corner until you are able to return rightward to the arete. Follow arete to the next belay ledge.

4. 20m (21) - The route begins to feel airy at this point. From the belay head left into the corner following this upward until an improbable rising traverse allows access across the face and up the arete to belay ledge.

5. 30m (24) - Follow the stunning left arete on perfect orange rock.

6. 30m (22) - A tricky start leads to some steep glory jugs in a wildly exposed position. Move awkwardly up and off the right side of the belay ledge following grey rock up a short slab before moving back left onto the arete and up the steep jugs.

7. 40m (23) - Interesting climbing on more excellent rock. As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - Navigate your way up and rightward on the scoopy red rock then head straight up the low angled grey rock to the finish.

If you're looking for an easier but similarly excellent outing on great rock, a good link would be p1 of Beggars Banquet, p2 of Upstaged, then p3-7 of Regular Route, for pitches of 22,23,24,21,24,22,23.

Stand start and straight up.

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

No feet problem traversing left to right along the slopey break.

Start on the same holds as Drill Sergeant. Work your way right and up. Finish on the crimpy rail.

Steep, intimidating, committing and mega. 3 stars for this section of the route, only 2 because of the lower half. Hard moves past the roof to gain juggy flake, then more hard steepness heading out to the arete. Climb the left side of the arete briefly (STAYING AT THE ARETE), then up to anchors. Wandering further left away from the arête is OFF ROUTE (you can have 24 if you do it this way). 7 more bolts, 19 in total. Consider extending 5th bolt.

Very good, very pumpy. The original route on this wall. Start beneath the obvious roof at 15m and follow a line of stainless steel fixed hangers up square cut slopers. If climbing on Phantom Menace Wall you need to continue on easy ground for 10m (two bolts) to Big Greenie ledge and bolt belay. It's 30m from this high anchor to the ground.

Start: Between 'Transmission' and 'Pulse'. Great climb at about 23 to a cruxy middle section, should be more popular but considered hard at the grade.

Start 2m R of Lucifer's Hammer. Sandy start with a high 1st FH; stick-clip may be prudent. Follow the R line of FHs thru choss for 15m, heading for the exposed right arete. After pulling through the roof, you are rewarded with a delightfully sculpted 10m arete. Chain lower-off.

Slabby ramp then up beautiful orange wall with a hard traverse left to first set of lower-offs at large flake.

Done in the days of the carrot bolt and mixed gear. When you knew how to place a good runner and dyno into a finger lock. Now of course its full of rings, and if you thought the run out was pants wetting then I placed a couple more bolts just for you.

Start: Under the obvious overlap to the right of DH. A ground fall from the crux is likely if the draw unclips itself, which has happened on this route. A locking draw in the 3rd bolt reduces this risk.

Was originally graded 26 - but seems to have settled at 25 in the recent print guide.

Steep! Starts just right of Ugg Boots. Scramble onto ledge, then weird move up holdless flake. Right and through short steep section to large horizontal break. Bust through crux steepness above on pockets and finish right with long moves between good holds.

Sit start at left hand side under little roof. Pull up on some holds below the lip with feet on the back ledge. Move up to the slopey break then climb the little face with small crimp rails. Right of the crack is off for hands as is the left arete.

Three big moves. Start as for dyno start of Chisel Mode for one bolt then directly up, right a bit then left up black streak with two very spaced mega pockets. Finish up ethically enhanced holds.

Grab the edge with your right hand, the little slope with your left and then the top with your right hand. Watch the superman swing!

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'.

The left of two obvious vertical orange streaks up superb rock. Hard moves down low then eases after 2nd ring. 1 bolt runner and the rest ring-bolted. Lower offs. Retro ring bolted 2013.

Starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

Sit start under overhang on left side on well chalked undercling/sidepull. Go straight up on crimps to mantel top-out.

Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above the 'Bowels Of The Devil' layaway. Stay below the good holds.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam.

Start as for Resistance and go straight up the arête to top out.

P1-4 are the most direct and consistent route to the big cave, well protected with bolts and plenty of gear. P6 is another excellent Bungers headwall pitch. Take 14 or so quickdraws, a few slings, a set of nuts and cams from green alien to #3 camalot, double cams from fingers to hands might be helpful on p4.

Start 3m right of Evolution, first bolt can be clipped by standing in tree.

1. 15m (19) Straight up on flakey jugs past two bolts and gear. Clip 3rd bolt then head diagonally right and up to DBB shared with 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'. 4 bolts plus gear

2. 40m (21) Straight up from the belay. At about 15m follow bolts left a couple of metres to a tricky mantle. Continue up the slab above past gear and bolts. Where the climbing eases off again traverse right across scoop. Up to a comfy belay ledge via the 2m arete with a bolt (stay well away from the dihedral, for obvious reasons!) DBB shared with The Bridge. 8 bolts plus gear.

3. 45m (22) From just left of the belay head straight up the steep wall and the delicate slab above. At 20m, ignore the comfy ledge to your right and blast straight up the rounded prow. At about 40m, follow bolts left 5m to DBB hidden on the side of a small orange cave (shared with Red Heat). Better to belay semi-hanging on the slab rather than grovel in the cave. 12 bolts plus gear.

4. 50m (22) Traverse right out of belay hole, then climb up trending vaguely right. At the cave, mantle carefully and head to DBB at back right (a rope-stretching 50 metres!). This pitch is long and eats cams, take your full rack. 10ish bolts.

5. 20m (23) Punchy. Start easily up the right wall of the cave then a short section of steepness (bolts and gear) to a niche. Traverse left and up past two more bolts, through a gap to finish at a semi-hanging DBB.

6. 30m (25) Cool, pumpy sections separated by excellent rests. Not too hard, but quite sequency. Mostly bolts with a few key bits of gear, take 3 or 4 60cm slings. After the steepness ends, climb easy 6m slab up rightwards past good gear to DBB on top of cliff. 10 bolts plus gear.

The all free version, if you didn't pull on the 1st bolt.

Just to the left of the rope end at hanging flake. Up and trend left on the bolts with red glue

Classic... there may be a jump, or 3!!! Same start as Spiderpuss, up the rungs then go right.

Sit start at low crimp in the middle of the wall. Big move right to gain the crimpy ear, then join Pull-kun.

A bouldery start leads to some excellent moves in steepy, pumpy territory. Save some for the top. If it's all too hard clip the anchors on Bachelor's Ball, but for the full experience tick go all the way.

Now re-bolted on U bolts. Route is aproximatly 50m south of the access track to Hoppy's Cave. May need a little cleaning. Starts at twin grass trees and trends left. Be careful of them when lowering.

Stand start. Up crimps and vert features.

Sit start matched on low block then traverse right on crimpy edges, head around blunt prow to finish up as for DHBLW

Hold the obvious round pocket with your left hand and reach up to a sloper and nubin then up.

Start up Here Comes The Hercules then traverse the wall from right to left on the lovely rounded holds below the lip.

Start: Sit

Narrow line up the right of the arete.

Originally 23 but now 25 with the loss of a flake.

Start as '6' but dyno straight up to the lip and top out.

1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above.

Classic up the middle of the wall directly below anchors. Thin sustained climbing. Easily to diagonal then up through shallow scoops on right, then trend left to pocket.

The most obvious line in the cave. Sit start at the base with a left hand on the jug and right hand down low on the sloper. Move directly out the roof and top out.

As for Vitamin C but go RH to the triangle instead of matching the high rail. No heels.

Sit start on the right arete with right hand on a low sidepull and left hand on a three finger pocket. Head left towards Zenith Direct using a fat pinch and a reach, finishing as for that problem.

Rounded bulge catching the sidepulls then lunge to the knob with your left.

Start: Sit

Start with both hands on the spotty sidepull. Work your way up to the big pinch in the middle. Mantle up on to the ledge and work your way up to the final rail.

This climb starts and finishes beneath the left end of the overhanging block. Climb the vague bulge (bolt) onto a sloping ledge and a balancy clip. Continue diagonally right and up past crux, then back left below the block to anchors. One of the best on the coast. Paul riviere

1m left of Cooper's Extra Stout, up featured orange wall.

A Bungonia mega-route.

Start at the large R-facing flakes in the chasm. 10m right of Evolution, and a few metres left of Andrew's Arete / left and round the corner from Siblings.

Gear: single set of nuts; #0.3 Camalot (or green Alien or #1 Mastercam) to #3 Camalot, (optional: doubles to #1 Camalot); 120cm sling; several 60cm slings; 15 or so quickdraws.

1. 20m 22. Smashing warm-up. Overhanging layback flakes up to hard moves then easy slab to DBB. 5 bolts plus threads and gear. An easier but lower quality varient traverses in from the left on the huge flake.

2. 35m 23. Slabby pitch with hard crux. Shares first 5m of pitch with Jumpmaster. After second bolt, follow rightwards branch of bolts. At the top of pitch, head for the large tree atop the 2m vertical step (bit of loose rock here). DBB behind the large tree. 10 bolts plus gear.

3. 20m 19. Start 3m right of the belay. Boulder the overhang past two bolts. Traverse right above the bolt to a hollow crack with large flakes and threads (shared with 'Reason for Man'). Straight up to DBB on ledge. 2 bolts, gear including several threads.

4. 28m 22. Excellent pumpy climbing. Follow line of spaced bolts with good gear in between (take it all for this pitch). 8ish bolts

5. 35m 24. Cool, tricky climbing straight off the belay then step right to gain incipient crack and gear. Up to a section of easy choss (120cm thread in small cave). Traverse right on fantastic pockets (save #3 camalot) till the climbing eases. Up to DBB on the right edge of the huge cave (beware of loose scree in cave). 7 bolts and gear.

6. 25m 22. Good pitch on red rock. From the right edge of the cave traverse right a couple of metres then wander up cracks and face to semi-hanging DBB on the left. Lots of bolts and gear.

7. 30m 25. Steep, pumpy pitch with a couple of good rests. Step left from the belay then follow the bolts into the stratosphere. 11 bolts plus a couple of nuts and finger-sized cams.

Dyno from undercling, right crimps out.

Links sit-start Crewcut into Coffee Anann.

Sustained moves up the corner.

Dyno up and left. Bigger dyno project up and right.

Was partially bolted, abandoned, and now cleaned up 20 years later. 3m R of Basic Instinct, up the slab past two rings onto the diving board. Very carefully up Corner, then out left to the arete. Continue up the right side of this with increasingly interesting moves. Hand traverse the holdless rising ramp, where a few more pulls will see you on the headwall with pleasant edges leading to the anchor.

The first route as you arrive.. If you like steep and thuggy then this is your number. Be careful on the first couple of bolts as the ground isn't far away.

The mega right route. Starts with a long dyno through bulge then rightwards on pockets to flake. Finish up deep fried potato holds to break, then one last baffling move to chain on lip.

Find the rusty crack. Sit start on the good juggy rail to the right of the rusty crack. Work your way towards and up the rusty crack. Finish on the rail at the top of the rusty crack. Rusty crack

Note: the rusty crack is quite flaky. Stay off the parts that are likely to break.

opposite the resistance block in the alley. 2m right of blunt bulge, straight up and over. Fun blank wall between the mosey sections.

Start up Smoko, at the 2nd bolt head directly R to the 1st bolt on Leviathan, then up via power-crimping moves to gain the black streak that runs the length of this wall. Follow the black streak around the first steep flake, and up the wall staying between Smoko and GABDUY through the surprisingly steep final bulge (moving slightly R up the flake to gain a series of pockets, then back L up the line of bolts) to topout on top of the boulder.

Long steep pumper on aesthetic water-washed rock at the far left of the crag. Overhangs more than 5m, so lowering off requires a lasso from the belayer to retrieve the climber!

Access either from the belay on the main lefthand ledge (by a roped traverse crawling along the ledge to the belay), or by abseiling in from the top.

To find the top abseil, during the Atlantis approach, as the descent steepens near the end (just before the main atlantis cliff appears on the right), spot the major cairn made of 50 small-rocks to your right, and follow the terrace below it to the right for about 50m, looking for a cairn near the cliff edge which makes the top of the route. Rap off trees down to single-bolt above the route, and over the lip to the route itself. Bring at least a 50m rope.

Rebolted 2019, resolving the "death start" issues via a variant start.

Classic of the crag. Starts just left of small hanging corner at right end of fixed ropes. Sustained bouldery climbing over bulges in the first half - then pumpy reachy climbing to finish.

Fantastic sustained climbing. Shared start (marked) with PP, up and traverse right and continue up steep wall.

Start as for No Name 1, finish up This Way Out. More moves than This Way Out but not harder.

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

Often overlooked, but a fun climb in a nice position, with some interesting bouldery moves to a sting in the tail. Don't be put off by the obvious broken holds, it still goes. The anchor is now abysmal, for anyone looking for some rebolting. It’s also possible to start up Dogbite at the same grade to avoid clogging up the start of Hairline.

The reason you came here. Half slab, half steep mega jugs.

This bum covered arete is a classic. Steadily overhanging throughout its entire length its lucky this one has no small holds on it. Over bolted to the max. Several sequences of grade 19 with a crux or two of 21 thrown in at opportune moments.

Start: At Bullens route. First bolt defies belief.

Up the hanging rib and top out right.

Mmmn!

Up ladder then left through roof and up red wall past huge eye bolts (Galv 12 mm Petzl Collinex?). Lower-off on slab!

Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up

Very exposed route up a clean overhung wall - with zero vegetation or choss. Lots of bolts and air. Bring 20 draws (some long ones) and a 70m rap rope and 70m (or longer) lead rope. No bolt plates required. Only one belay is fully hanging. Route stays in the shade from 9am until very late afternoon (it's cold!).

Rap in as described above to big ledge. Pitch 3 of this route starts 5m left of the rap touch down point. For the final rap walk to far left end of ledge to double rings - rig 70m lead rope as a double rope rap - and rap 34m down face to small belay ledge just right of major corner and above amazing hanging vertical swamp.

1. 17m (21) From small belay ledge climb the right trending line across gorgeous waterwashed face to awkward mantle onto shale ledge. Some moves are pretty reachy. Semi-hanging belay. 9 bolts.

2. 17m (25) Pull on the first two bolts as aid then left leading line that gets harder the higher it goes. Lots of thin moves. Belay on left end of ledge at same anchors you rapped in on. 10 bolts.

3. 14m (22) Move belay 15m right to middle of big ledge (single low bolt to belay from). Climb short left facing fused corner, then jugs and short baffling corner to small ledge belay (DBB). 5 bolts.

4. 32m (24) Left off the belay past diving board and up through bulge and then long technical wall to under small overlap. Left under this then continue up short corner and wall above to semi hanging belay at tiny ledge. 15ish bolts.

5. 18m (20) Left up ramp and then reachy wall trending right to major shale ledge. Traverse 8m right (reversing the Thomson Traverse) to belay at double RB (where you rapped in from).

6. 30m (25) Little undercut rooflet to start then long grey wall about 10m right of I Have A Dream, finishing at anchors under small overlap. Lower-off back to ledge and walk off home. 12 bolts.

Contrived and steeper than it looks. With crafty toe hook and balance to match make your way up the face from a sit start on the arete.

Mauricio Chino

Mega pumper! Thug through steep ground above first set of anchors, then plough onwards up spaced jugs to hard finish. This is a full 35m, make sure your rope is long enough.

Now with its own punchy direct start right of 'Locomotion'. Finish at first anchor or for the full tick finish up either 'Locomotion' or 'Edward Chiselhands'. 20m to the first anchor or ~45m to either the GA or Locomotion anchors. New bolts 2016.

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

Sit start then sloppy slaps up left then mantel.

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster"

Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes. Now finishes directly off the rest via another small boulder.

Linkup, to avoid the cruxy start of Nikita which makes it even more classic. 1st 4 bolts of Unforgiven, then step R to join Nikita. Soft at the grade for added enjoyment! Has no more drag than Nikita, i.e. its fine if you use a few rollers and extenders before the traverse/ramp.

Climb the short blunt arete. It is good and much harder than it looks.

Sit start at jugs at the lowest, most left point of the face - traverse right to join Boldrewood Arete and finish up that.

One of the softest 5's here. Link the breaks to the right of 'Summer Fun' . FUN.

Video : Will Schubert

The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet.

Slab around the corner. Easy start with a technical, crimpy finish.

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Rightward trending line above where the approach track reaches the cliff. Grade 24 in the Carter guide. This is the only way of doing the excellent Octopussy extension.

Start as for TCOM. Upon gaining the horizontal break, move left to finish as for GMOC. A classic 5 and a crag must do!

As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall.

Hard, worthless. Just right of 'Cenotaph Corner' is a slab wall with 2 shiny new ring bolts next to 2 decrepit old carrots.

Climb up slab with difficulty.

Powerful cranking off the obvious hole right of the tree. Chris Beers

The line of rings thru the overlap. Left of 'Manchester United'

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this.

Dan Stephenson

Climb the face to the left of The Breach. Techy moves up horizontal cracks and pockets to a sloper finish. Arete is out.

Eson Zhao

Seam 3 m left of big roof, stick clip high first bolt. Offset wire blue DMM, #0.75 cam and micro cam needed before crack closes. Continue up groove through small roof up high

From pedestal of rock launch up the centre of the buttress on RB to DBB, with occasional moves on the left arête. Finish with hands on top of cliff.

Named after the huge Testicle shaped boulder that Greg and Steve trundled off the ledge on the first ascent.

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurion' ledge

The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors.

Climb Jugalicious, continue around corner and finish matched on a large edge in the middle of the wall.