线路 in Tasmania for selected grade

Start as for Soft but go up and head left.

Climb up to the roof then head left to finish up Juggling Junkie.

Line through the middle of the cave and up through overlap.

Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack left of Adolf. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required.

The way to do it. Climb via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt. DRB.

If you like your curries spicy and your trad routes the same, this one is for you. Climbs the twin seams left of Bautzen, without using the blocks or crack of Bautzen. The crux is the sparsely protected moves to the first ledge. Continue up seams with better gear and easier moves to finish up V groove. DBB as for Bautzen

Short finger and laback crack below Endorphin. A couple of bouldery moves, small/medium wire protects the middle.

Ends on ledge, or link into Endorphin!

Possibly 24 if your tall with small fingers.

Roof crack on the eastern end of the crag. Easy start into overhanging fist crack, then a 5m hand crack through the roof, with a hanging slab just before the lip. Turning the lip is the crux. Be careful of the rope jamming in the crack.

Pillar with 3 eye bolts. Take some wires for the top crack. DBB

The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH.

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap :IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

Start: Follow the Cape Huay track (1.5 Hrs) all the way to the the end, don\'t turn off as for the Totem Pole, but continue to un-fenced rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left(looking out). The route is 100m south of the Totem Pole,ie towards Cape Pillar.

1. 15m (24) Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m (25) Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m (23) Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m (18) Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

Take a micro cam for the top

On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top.

Follow the right crack to a hard, strenuous move over the small roof. Well protected.

Closed project, direct extension on Ethereal through the two roofs and technical flared crack on the face. Looks nails.

Bolted arete to the R of Gabriel. Originally led with only a single bolt. DBB.

bolts have been replaced as of June 2022.

Weird technical right facing corner and arete, with excellent protection. One crack left of Astroboy.

Quality climbing on good rock to DBB

The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête.

1. 20m 20 - As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.

2. 30m 25 - Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.

3. 30m 22 - Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb.

he obvious prow with a crack running up it on the far right of Sedgies buttress. The start (crux) is protected by a single bolt and bomber gear follows. Bolted anchor at the top.

Climbs the left leaning crack from the big guano patch up onto the orange wall then head back right 5m and out to the barbarella anchor.

One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection.

One of the best steep cracks anywhere in Australia. The first pitch is Tassie's answer to Trojan and the second is a rarely done but worthwhile 22 bolted face pitch.

1. 30m (25) Up the obvious steep crack in the middle of the cliff. Brilliant gear and moves trend gradually rightwards to finish at a DBB.

2. 20m (22) Up the face on good but slightly dirty rock.

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

Under highway bridge near Tamar Marine. Run start at wall to flat edge, traverse right and mantle into vertical crack using the crimp on the bottom of the large steel beam. Continue right and finish through tight hands roof crack to top out onto the highway. 1x #1,2, and 3 cams is suitable protection plus some slings for top anchor

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.

1. 25m (25) This pitch doesn't get done much since Deep Play was established, the latter being easier with much lower ropedrag and admin.

2. 40m (25) This is the "money pitch". Mostly Bolts (about 8), a few pieces of trad gear where the climbing is easier.

Rap in from two carrots (hangerless expansion bolts) at head of the amphitheatre. Goes on gear with one carrot. Two FHs for belay.

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

1. 15m, 24, 2 bolts -Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m, 25, 1 bolt - Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m, 23 - Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m, 18 - Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

Alternate 3rd pitch of De Gaulles Nose. Beginning from the top of the second pitch of the original route.

1. 50m (21) As for De Gaulle's Nose

2. 15m (21) As for De Gaulle's Nose

3. 45m (25) Straight up the left of two shallow vertical corners for abour 10m before heading out right to the second corner following the holds and placements, up this corner to rest and FH. Up to rooflet and around the rooflet to BR with a fixed biner at stance. Up to one more FH before going left on small holds and up blank face towards thin crack and up to sloping ledge and ramp and left up this to belay on arete.

4. 10m (18) - Up crack above belay for 6m to large ledge on arete to ledge at top of pitch three of the original route, across this all the way to the other side of the ledge to hanging belay. This is the end of the original's third pitch.

5. 50m (21) As for De Gaulle's Nose P4

6. 50m (17) As for De Gaulle's Nose P5

7. 40m (18) As for De Gaulle's Nose P6

8. 45m (17) As for De Gaulle's Nose P7

On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge.

An amazing pitch of climbing. Single bolt hanging belay just above the water. A tricky steep crack leads to some easy climbing and an exposed and exciting traverse left around the arete and up to the belay for P2 of Exocet. Finish either by climbing Exocet or NMMNG.

Start up hand crack, double rack of #1-3 to gain bolts in the blank corner. Follow these up and right through the roof. Cutting back left and up.

P1. (18) Up NMMNG but continue up and right instead or traversing right. Belay at a comfortable slopy stance. P2. (26) Thin crack on steep arete. Traverse right at roof past a bolt to DBB. P3. (17+) Given 17, sandbagged. Up steep fist cracks top

An incredible pitch.

Abseil 30m from the DBB at the start of ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ to another DBB below a roof on a sloping ledge. Climb through the roof on its right and into a finger / hand crack. Follow this until the bolts, trending left and climb the side of the arete to the anchors. Finish up either ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ or start the traverse into ‘The Pud Life’ to exit.

Recommended gear; cams #0.3 to #2 with extra #0.4 and #0.5, a black offset nut, and at least 9 quick draws.

Starting on the right side of the chasm, follow seams (wires) to bolts on face. Traverse right into (somewhat concerning) undercling flake after clipping the 3rd bolt, then blast up the right arete past 3 more bolts to the top.

1. 40m Project

2. 35m Project

3. 30m (25)

4. 40m (24)

5. 45m (24)

Steep climbing directly up the seams just right of the big blank corner.

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

Start up Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right to the finger crack. Tight finger jamming leads to the top.

Arete past some FH's.

Corner on L with single bolt

Face into finger crack - then over the top block. 4FH's plus some gear.

LHS of main buttress R of the corner. 3FH's + 1 carrot bolt + 2 FH DBB

1. Two options for this pitch.

   30m 23

   From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.

   25m 23

   From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above.

2. 15m 17 An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.

3. 25m 22 Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.

4. Two options for this pitch.

   20m 20

   From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot

   20m 26

   The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with bouldery moves near the top. Could be harder! (fully bolted)

5. 30m 23 From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux.

The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.

Climbs left arete of Alchemy Wall via some bolts and wires. Moves right at second bolt above rooflet and back towards the arete for gear and more holds. Gear anchor set a long way back from the top

A variant pitch for the third pitch of Laendler and a classic in its own right. Starting and finishing on the same belay ledges. Unrelenting difficult finger-locking.

An incredible and inspiring diagonal line that packs a punch. Sustained jamming and laybacks all the way. Micro cams, finger sized cams and small to medium wires. Take a #4 and #5 BD cam for the belay plus a few cordelettes to extend the anchor if you want to top rope it.

Thins seam up the wall just left of Rondeau

This isolated highball is worth a visit. Either a V5 or 25 if you place gear to protect ankles. A pleasant 20min walk from the campsite, either rock hopping west or take the dirt road opposite the low camp entrance. This road leads to the coast with the wall immediately to its left looking over the channel to the Sisters islands.