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Galaxy Buttress Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Bryan Senger Collado Dan O'Keefe rick Alexey Em Hughes Jeffrey Richard Hunston

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Galaxy Buttress 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

传统攀登, 运动攀岩 和 Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.923768, -123.167006

总结

Great View

描述

A fun beginner sport multi-pitch with some amazing views. 5.5-5.9 climbing.

准入问题

Access it is by the cairned trail that starts in the pullout with the car park and picnic table. Just right of the billboard the trail is very clear and well maintained, I cannot imagine any reason to rap the route as it is faster than walking the same distance on the side of the road and you save yourself the raps. If by whatever reason you want to rap it walk on the side of the road back towards Squamish until you pass a rock outcrop with a cairns that marks the way, follow it and you will arrive to the top of Star Check. The rap anchors are 5 meters to the right as you look down(climbers left, there is pic underneath). UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE. (Someone should cut the chains of the last anchor of star check so people can only rap on the rap route) as you will be throwing the rope on climbers, there is potential for rock fall at the top and the rap stations will save you one rap as it can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope and 3 with a 60 vs 4 if you rap the climbing route.

前往

Access is by the cairned trail that starts in the pullout with the car park and picnic table. Just right of the billboard the trail is very clear and well maintained, I cannot imagine any reason to rap the route as it is faster than walking the same distance on the side of the road and you save yourself the raps. If by whatever reason you want to rap it walk on the side of the road back towards Squamish until you pass a rock outcrop with cairns that marks the way, follow it and you will arrive to the top of Star Check. The rap anchors are 5 meters to the right as you look down, (climbers left, there is pic underneath). UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE. (Someone should cut the chains of the last anchor of star check so people can only rap on the rap route) as you will be throwing the rope on climbers, there is potential for rock fall at the top and the rap stations will save you one rap as it can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope and 3 with a 60 vs 4 if you rap the climbing route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown route

Follow's 'Star Chek's' rappel line up

未知
2 Beam Me Up, Scotty

Trad climb left of Star Chek. First pitch is a bit chossy, with a gear belay off stump and gear in higher crack. 2nd and 3rd pitch make the climb worthwhile. (Possible 2nd pitch variant up dyke on the right, unknown grade)

首攀: Milke Vanwerkhoven, Brian Liu & Alan Trick, 2017

5.8 传统攀登 72m, 3
3 Star Chek

Climb up the ramp out of the gorge, staying along the arete. Nice climbing with beautiful views.

P1. 5.7 20m, 4 bolts

P2. 5.7 45m, 8 bolts (don't stop at the first anchor -- this is just an intermediate rap station)

P3. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts

Pitch 3 Variation: 5.10c climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location.

NOTE: The trail from the car park IS the way to go as per the update on Quickdraw Publications. Its is a well maintained trail with just a shitty move on scree slope but totally safe, much quicker than walking the same distance and then raping. If for whatever mysterious reason you want to rap, the rap station is 5 meter left of the chains from top of start check as per pic below. Can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope or 3 with a 60m. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE extremely likely that someone is climbing it and you will be on their way, rock fall possible from the top, and its 4 raps instead of 3 if you chose the rap station

定线/开线: Ron Goldstone, 1994

首攀: Sig Isaak & Kevin McLane (Ron Goldstone), 1995

5.9 运动攀岩 85m, 3, 16
4 Star Chek (10c Variant)

Follow the standard line up the first two pitches (5.7). P3: Follow a line of bolts up the arete (5.10c)

5.10c 运动攀岩 85m, 3
5 Apollo 13

From the first rap anchor down the ramp, instead of continuing down the ramp, rap of the edge into the gorge. Climb the mixed route up this face in two pitches. (Then probably the 10c variation of Star Chek to finish).

首攀: Kevin McLane & Joe Turley, 1995

5.10d 传统攀登 50m, 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.8 Beam Me Up, Scotty 传统攀登 72m, 3
5.9 Star Chek 运动攀岩 85m, 3, 16
5.10c Star Chek (10c Variant) 运动攀岩 85m, 3
5.10d Apollo 13 传统攀登 50m, 2
? Unknown route 未知
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