攀登 in Cougar Canyon having 攀爬攻略

Was super proud when Jon asked me to retro one of his classic routes. Rest in peace Jon. You’re missed. All of the hard work you put into the BV and this sport won’t ever be forgotten.

Tricky! Slippery feet at the start, serious vert. Very fun

Short route leading to swan lake.

Juggy and pumpy, tough moves at the top

So fun!

Messed up the beta at the crux first time around.

Not sure what the third bolt is doing so far out to the left.

2nd burn

Linked pitches

You wish the finger crack at the start goes for the whole way! Good route.

Wow! Consistently super fun moves through steep terrain. Almost botched the onsight. What a great route.

Boulder to start and then cramped climbing through the corners. Pretty interesting. Stoked to have a second 11a onsight in one day

Stoked to get the onsight on this. Nice boulder problem split by easier climbing.

Lead it when it was a bit wet -- water on some of the holds at the crux made it actually feel like 5.10a -- might feel like 5.9 if actually dry.

Unsustained, but some good climbing.

Lead while damp. Still not hard enough to be 5.10a.

Very unsustained. Some fun 5.6 climbing here and there, maybe one 5.9 crux.

The opening section was quite wet, making the start quite a bit more difficult than it should have been -- probably climbed at about 5.10b. It also had several other solidly 5.10a climbing, though with reasonable rests between sections. Definitely a fun climb, and solid at the grade.

Lead it slightly damp -- seemed really easy for 5.8, even dealing with dampness. I'd call it 5.7 at most. But generally fun. (When I finished the lead and got asked what I thought of it, I said it was a really nice 5.6 climb.)

Fantastic climb with a pumpy top section. Managed to red point on the third attempt. The roof mantle is not as bad as it first looks.

Done in single pitch. First pitch a bit too easy for a 5.9, second pitch is a pretty tough 10a with a spicy finish. Anna led this one too.

Great and pumpy with some interesting moves. Anna top roped clean.

Boring first section followed by some nice climbing in the top half

Sadly failed the onsight as I went the wrong way traversing to the right half way into the climb to the unusable X flakes. Red pointed on second attempt.

Easy warmup. First bolt is unnecessary due to flooding.

Better quality than 10 Years. Not straightforward but good holds.

Upper section slightly crumbly. Otherwise fun if awkwardly bolted.

Got the route clean on TR - now for the send.

First 11b!

Fun mellow warmup. Well bolted.

Incomplete, didn't make it up.

Cleaned some loose rocks.

Cleaned some loose rocks.

Kind of polished start.

Crimpy up top had to rest at a couple clips.

Basically a boulder problem. 2 bolts. Very polished feet.

Basically a boulder problem. 2 bolts. Very polished feet.

First lead above a 5.8. Fell off on the arrete by the second bolt going to the flake, hopped back on and crushed it. Easy rest of the way

Fun slabby V8. Lead it.

Super fun route. Was way too pumped but did all the moves. Need to up my endurance

Love some quality chert climbing!

The is a nice route with two very insecure sections. The first is the so called 5.9 start for "Island in the Stream", If this is your first 5.9 attempt at the grade you should stay away from this route it is a sand bag for 5.9, it is more like a 5.10a. The mid section has some very loose flakes which you should not attempt to use even though they are very tempting. Once you have clipped the bolt on the right face there are some super edges to take you tot he top. This is a fun route but not a route to be tried on lead if you are not a solid 5.11 climber.