攀登 in Bayreuther Wand

Could not find the top bolt and had to top out into the woods. Top bolt should have been the same as the easier route on the right.

Not nearly as long or exciting as its namesake nearby, but still fun and also with perfect hand jams. The inside of the crack was wet, but still had enough grip for the jams to stick. Started from the left, apparently the original start was from the right.

Was supposed to be the #warmup but turned out to be quite a challenge. Well, I'm not surprised, this is Würgau after all. Had to back up a bit when I was already standing on the flake that I had haphazardly draped a sling over - well, at first; I added a knot after I had second thoughts - to add a big cam and a nut before I dared to rock up into the alcove below the overhanging crack. That one looked easy enough from the ground, but turned out to be quite off-putting, but at least protected by a bolt.

Good line, the middle part requires some nuts or cams, otherwise you'll have to trust the peg below the overhang. Nice laybacking crux, then easy to the top.

The old farts from Bayreuth climbing clubs must have been angry that there wasn't a tower left to be named after them, so they looked for a bold line through the wall opposite the biggest tower and after failing to climb it, they chipped a few holds to finish the job. Well, I have no idea how the story really went, but there are definitely one or two chipped holds. Other than that, it's a pretty good route, hard for the grade but fun.

Hm. A bitte hard to read, excellent holds once you find them.

Despite what the schwertner guide says, not a slab.

Easy, fun 3d climbing

#barefoot

Tough for the grade and not particularly well bolted. Used the rusty pin and a couple of wires.

Still a nice line, the crux at the upper crack is fun climbing.

Würgau 7-

28 Spirit Points

Good but surprisingly hard crux with some proper jamming required. #crack climbing is not what I was expecting from Franken ^^.

Fun, athletic moves up the overhang.

Got tilted by the weird bolting/clipping. The first shared bolt with "Bayreuther Weg" feels reachy and off the logical line, and the top bolt seems to be missing(?). I ended up placing a nut and lowering off the anchor of "Pfeilerkante" for convenience sake.

#2ndgo