Climbed it as described in the 1991 Bühler guide, that is, to the second bolt of "Südriss", then to the right into the crack parallel to "Südriss", up this to the top. Nuts/cams absolutely necessary, or you'll have to run it out for 5 to 7 meters after the rusty peg. Felt quite tough compared to "Südriss", since there are no good hand jams, only a mediocre fist/open hand in the middle. I'd love to try the direct variant, but that one looks really desperate and the old expansion bolt doesn't look trustworthy either.
Forgotten variant that traverses from the north face around the west face into the upper part of "Südriss". Not sure if we traversed too high, but everything worked out nicely in the end.
Not as homogeneous as the original, also a bit hard to read and more sensible a bit left of the bolts, so that you're almost drawn towards the good holds of the finish of "Talseite". Jammed my way up the crack, there are really only two or three sequences where you need to use actual holds. Jamming your foot in the crack also helps sometimes. Still didn't feel too polished to me.
Somehow messed up the start but managed to pull up into the goodrest; manoeuvred myself into a dead end in the last few moves of the crux section, though …
Varied climbing with two pronounced crux sections in the upper part, separated by a mediocre rest. First a cross move to an invisible crimp on a sloper far up, then two dynamic moves, first right, then left, to slopery ledges. My first 8 in Würgau!
Slightly crisp material in the beginning, climb carefully. The slab crux is just before the merger into the original "Talseite" , which is still a tad better, I think.
Next classic on the list. Slightly scary in the beginning, but one or two nuts and it's okay. Jamming galore from beginning to end, unfortunately it's verypolished, which makes it even more exhausting. Definitely worth the sweat, though, and another summit experience!
Even three years later, I had real trouble getting through the friction footholds in the middle.
