攀登 in Freistein

Worked out a solution for the crux towards the third bolt. Slanted pocket with the right hand, the one above with the left hand, right foot on the right edge of the gold-black foothold, pull up to the small crimp. Left foot high into the obvious pocket, grab the horizontal pinch on the left. Then it‘s important to keep the right foot low and put it on the good foot that‘s hard to see (about half a meter to the right of the bolt). Bump to the sidepull, lean in a bit and foot up onto the tiny, gold-shimmering something. Go into „believe-in-it“ mode and pull hard, the clipping holds are there.

Got through clean even though I hadn‘t worked out the upper part! Pumpy as hell if you still have to figure out the moves. My big toe of the right foot is complaining a bit because it had the hardest job in this one, the footholds on the left are almost always too bad to weight them fully.

Pretty intense #warmup, if you can even call it that. Tried to do it as directly as possible, which involved a high rockover far above the bolt. Can't remember how I did it last time. Anyway, still gorgeous and demanding.

A very good test piece for the grade. Spaced protection, just enough. Funny fixed (bashed-in) nut after the first bolt. Fell in the lower crux, but found a good beta. Took me a while to commit to the upper part, so I jumped off once to convince myself that it's fine. Worked out nicely afterwards. Cool sections.

Got through without any major problems. The middle finger of my right hand was mildly offended after I finished the climb, though, probably (but not exclusively) due to the fact that there are two monos in the route which you make extensive use of. Great wall climbing, the good rest in the middle helps.

Brilliant route; the only blemish for me is its crux. Would be a perfect 8+ if it wasn't for this hard section at the third bolt with tiny footholds and either sharp, painful crimps or dull, sloping edges. Still need to work out this part in more detail. The rest of the route is fantastic homogeneous wall climbing; those with good footwork and finger strength are at an advantage.

A marvellous line. Incredibly homogenous, not a single big hold, balance and movement deluxe. The distances between bolts add to the motivation to stay on the wall. Must be one of the best routes of this style in Frankenjura. Thanks Martin Grulich!