攀登 in Schottertaler Turm

#jahreserste2024

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The rock was almost completely wet due to the warm temperatures. Didn't exactly make the traverse easier. Nice second pitch up the pocketed slab.

Nice and easy, but also very interesting chimney.

Hard and tricky, but cool moves and holes. There are hardly any easier parts between the cruxes. It keeps giving until the end.

Great clean route, probably doesn't reach the 5th grade (originally graded as III/IV in the old guides). The first few meters of the chimney are brittle, that's why the original route traversed in from the right. Have to try that some time. Once the chimney gets a little wider, it's good fun and easy to protect.

Tough one, for sure, but great hold shapes in overall great rock. Nasty finish that can easily throw you off.

2nd go

Seconding it, fell on my way to the first bolt while searching a foothold.

Found a foothold this time and pulled through, gets easier after passing the first bolt and really enjoyable.

Summit

#firstRouteOfTheYear #firstPumpOfTheYear Hard warmup..

Tough start, better pre-clip the first bolt if you're not solid in the grade. Small holds to the ledge, then nice pockets to the new anchor.

Nice little chimney, quite narrow at the beginning, then wide at the top with perfect rock. Cool rock tunnel slit in the middle.

Indicated as "5" in guidebooks, but probably this was just copied over and over again from the "V" in older Bühler guides, where this still included using aid. So not ideal as a #warmup. Probably easier if you don't follow the new bolts, which take a more direct line than what I think was climbed originally.