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Moritzer Turm

季节分布

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总结

Impressive free standing tower with fantastic face climbs.

准入问题

Near a few houses and the owners are sort of sick of the amount of climbers here, so please be quiet and don't stay until midnight. Also take care with walking and avoid walking through the fields.Observe the new rules: https://ig-klettern.org/2021/04/probleme-am-moritzer-turm

前往

Between Behringersmühle and Engelhardsberg; drive from Behringersm. towards Waischenfeld. After 800 m, there is a turn off to the left towards Engelhardsberg. Up this for about 1 km, then left towards Moritz. Park before the village on the right. You can see the crag already.

Walk up the main road through the village; after a square-like crossing, follow the hiking trail marked with a vertical red bar on white background. You will pass between two sheds and arrive in the forest. Follow the trail for about 150 m, passing the crag "Räuberburg" on your right, then leave the path to the right, down the hill, and walk back along the rocks until you reach the crag.

行为准则 取自Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

线路

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Grade 线路

自由首攀: Stefan Löw, 2002

自由首攀: Sven Wegener, 1997

自由首攀: Joshua Schulz, 2014

Follow the crack line leftwards and do yourself a favour and finish before the chimney slot thing at the end. There is a bolt to lower off.

自由首攀: Sebastian Schwertner, 2000

自由首攀: Udo Kürzdorfer, 2013

Starts at MMG, then leaves the crack rightwards up the face and then right to the chain of HGD.

自由首攀: Klemens Nicklaus, 1992

自由首攀: Joshua Schulz, 2014

Nice and consistent face climbing, keep it together until the top!

自由首攀: Stefan Löw, 1997

Short direct variant in the middle of BV, along the arête.

自由首攀: Burkhard Müller, 2006

Quite rewarding, it's varied and looks harder than it is.

自由首攀: Burkhard Müller, 2006

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Ulrich & Harald Röker

日期: 2023

国际书号: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

作者: Ulrich & Harald Röker

日期: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

作者: Sebastian Schwertner

日期: 2021

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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