Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.
The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.
Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/
For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/
For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.
Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.
Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.
For a detailed description on how to reach Frankenjura by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.
Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.
A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.
你知道吗?创建账户后,你可以记录、跟踪并分享你的攀登!数千计的攀登者已经在这么做了。
作者: Sebastian Schwertner
日期: 2021
Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …
作者: Sebastian Schwertner
日期: 2021
Band 2 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6500 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 1 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura ...
3 | ★★★ Schda-Wurf | ||
3+ | ★★ Stier | ||
4- | ★★★ Rübezahl | ||
4+ | ★★ Barbarelli-Weg | ||
5 | ★★ La belle du jour | ||
5+ | ★ Boulderwandl | ||
6- | ★★ Annelore | ||
6 | ★★★ Biber | ||
6+ | ★★ Eieruhr | ||
7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger | ||
7 | ★★ Basic Instinct | ||
8- | ★★ Isolation | ||
8 | ★★★ Dampfhammer | ||
9- | ★★★ Dumbo |
Purzelstein - Purzelstein.jpg
Michał在★★ Natz Bramslinger 7- - 20180916_120730.jpg
Holger Jor at Hartensteiner Wand - Secret Life
Kletterhalle Hersbruck - Kletterhalle Hersbruck.jpg
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