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Frankenjura

  • Bewertungskontext: UIAA
  • Fotos: 318
  • Begehungen: 43,495
  • Aka: Franconian Jura
  • Aka: Frankenalb
  • Aka: Fränkische Alb

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Übersicht

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

Beschreibung

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

Einschränk.

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

Zustieg

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

Übernachtung

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

Geschichte

Grafik zur historischen Entwicklung

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

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Gebiete

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Routen

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Please help locate me correctly. So far best info "in Frankenjura" This is part of an effort to document the hardest Boulders, in this case historically the second established 8C in the world.

This boulder was vandalized / destroyed in early 2020. Holds were hammered off, making this piece of climbing history unrepeatable...

Erstbegehung: Markus Bock, 2002

Hallo!

Das erste Mal hier?

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Neuigkeiten

Finde heraus, was in Frankenjura passiert.

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