Springs Wall 所有传统攀登 30 线路 在 片区中

About 46 m from the left-hand end of the cliff a crack splits the face from bottom to top, leaning back in a corner at first, and then overhanging slightly.

1. 18 m Up the wall and crack to a chockstone belay.

2. 22 m The overhanging crack/corner gives technical straddling in a fine position.

Scramble up a pillar of boulders leading to a band of overhangs. Bridge up and step left onto a slab above a roof. Move 2 m left, then go up and right to belay directly below the steep corner (15 m). Climb corner (crux at 6 m), pass a roof and belay on the left, 3 m below the rotten band (25 m). Climb right of the corner to the rotten band. Move left to gain easy but rotten rock and trend left to the top (20 m); belay 20 m higher.

From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher.

At the extreme left end of Springs Wall there is a steep section seamed by cracks, bounded on its left side by a broken gully. In the centre of the cliff a crack bends from left to right, cut at two-thirds height by a prominent roof. Start in the centre of the crag at the foot of a prominent groove.

1. 22 m Climb the groove, traverse left along a grassy ledge to gain a short crack which leads to a tree on the left. Climb the short groove behind the tree and gain the hanging crack above. Climb this and pull out on the left and traverse to the foot of a sharp cut groove. Climb this to good ledge above.

2. 48 m Traverse right to foot of crack cutting wall and leading to obvious roof. Climb crack direct to roof then step right to a sloping ledge and up to easier ground. Ascend chimney and move right to ledge.

About 9 m right of 'The Springer' is a prominent corner curving up rightwards. Start below this.

1. 19 m Climb corner moving right at top and along ledge to belay.

2. 15 m Move up leftwards into obvious cracks which are climbed direct to ledge.

3. 15 m Follow prominent rampline rightwards.

4. 9 m Now traverse left across steep black wall to ledge.

5. 25 m Move straight up behind ledge into little groove which is climbed direct to top.

2019 update: Can be climbed in three pitches by combing pitches 2 and 3 and pitches 4 and 5. Best climbed with two ropes to manage rope drag, in particular for last pitch.

In the inward curving section of the face is a series of ramplines stacked above each other. The upper rampline which steps steeply left to right is just below a pale wall in which can be seen a lava sworl decorated by resident birds in a manner suggesting the name. Start below a tree at 3 m in a groove. Aim generally for the lower end of the upper rampline.

1. 80ft. Up groove to tree. Break right onto slab and layback crack. Over blocks to ledge and belay.

2. 70ft. (Crux). Move slightly onto ledge on left. Up block to a prominent crack, which is awkward to enter, and up to a capped block. Step onto cap and take next block left on friction. This gives onto the upper rampline. Belay on fine ledge below Madonna.

3. 100ft. Continue up ramp on slabs to small cave. As rock quality deteriorates continue rightwards to exit into a grassy gully.

Start as for Madonna.

1. 19 m Up the groove to a tree at 3 m. Pass behind the tree and traverse left to a large flake. Straight up for a few feet above the flake until one can traverse left to a groove which leads to a large flake belay.

2. 15 m (Crux). Bridge up the twin cracks and then follow the single crack to the extreme left end of the rampline.

3. 12 m Follow the rampline past a flakey wall to above a prominent pinnacle (junction with Madonna).

4. 31 m Follow the rampline past a cave to easy ground (as for Madonna).

This climb is on the more broken right side of the bay of the previous two climbs. The technical difficulties are in the first 15 m. Start just left of a tree.

1. 28 m Climb the slab and cracks a few feet left of the tree until one can start a long easy traverse right (just below the top of the tree), to a wide curving crack, Follow this to a good thread belay.

2. 18 m Mantleshelf onto the chock, move right and mantleshelf again. Move left go the start of a rampline pulling over a bulge to a belay.

3. 28 m Follow the rampline right with a short wall to finish on a grass ramp.

At the top of the first bay to the left of the white trunked tree and arrowhead is a corner which leads into the extreme left of about nine parallel corners set halfway up the cliff.

1. 25 m (Severe). At 17 m, break left out of the corner and continue upwards until a traverse leads to the right, past an obvious spike belay. Up to the ledge at the foot of the main crack.

2. 18 m (Hard Very Severe). The corner becomes fierce with difficult bridging and jamming until an escape can be made onto the left wall, which is climbed to an overhang. An airy step right across the top of the crack leads to the belay.

3. 34 m (Mild Very Severe). Move up leftwards at first and then continue to the final wall (possible grassy escape to the right). Climb wall until it steepens and a sloping traverse ledge leads into an open chimney. The easier angle is now compensated by deteriorating rock which maintains interest to the end, a mantleshelf off a spike.

Start at the white tree in the centre of the crag and follow the right to left rampline which is grassy along much of its length.

1. 46 m Up to block belay on easy ground.

2. 37 m Up to V cleft.

3. 12 m Step across V cleft and up right into gully.

About 200 ft. past the Tree on the left, is a large arrowhead, with its tip about two-thirds of the height of the cliff. A long crack on the left hand side of this feature leads down to a tree with a white trunk.

1. 40ft. Scramble up to the right of the white tree.

2. 70ft. Reach the base of the crack proper, turning the steepness on the left. Large rock belay.

3. The corner is good, avoid the marrow plant.

4. 50ft. Easily up the corridor behind the tip of the arrow.

5. 100ft. Step off a flake at the right end of the corridor for a few steep moves (crux), then straight up in good position.

Start directly below the arrowhead left of the bay, about 5 m left of some trees at 3 m.

1. 24 m Aim for a wide square cut corner/chimney at 50 ft. and exit from this on the left, onto easier ground and continue to thread belays.

2. 21 m Traverse diagonally right across blocks until an easy gully is reached which leads behind the arrowhead.

3. 30 m Climb the rock behind the belay using a pocket and follow the ramp left to ah obvious perched block. Traverse horizontally left to join Arrowhead chimney and follow this for a few feet to a tree belay.

4. 12 m Easily to top.

Just left of The Tree is a second tree. Just right of this is a chimney.

1. 26 m The corner and then the chimney with a brief excursion to the right low down. Prom the top of the chimney climb to the right hand corner of the bay,

2. 23 m Climb the corner behind the belay until forced left into a niche. Pull left, low down onto a slab, (not the top slab but the one below), and traverse to a groove. Move up and across the next slab to the foot of a large leaning flake. Climb this to a belay at the top.

3. 15 m Continue up the arete to a large ledge.

4. 18 m From the left hand end of the ledge go up to a block runner. Step right and climb a steep wall to a belay.

5. 18 m Gain a stairway on the right which leads easily to the top.

In the middle of the face is sort of a gully with three prominent cracks on the left. The climb starts beneath the right tree.

1. Climb with some difficulty to the tree.

2. Climb behind the polished tree on slabs, moving left then up and back right over blocks and down to the right using a crack at the top of a slab. This ends up at a ledge about 25 ft. above the tree. Peg belay.

3. Move right and up onto a bulge pulling up from this with a poor hand jam on the right (crux), continue to a cave.

4. Squeeze through the back of the block and climb a crack in the wall on the left. At the overhang pull up into a vegetated groove which leads to the top.

Start 6 m left of The Crab.

1. 18 m Step onto the slab and traverse left for 6 m to reach a corner. Climb the left wall to a good ledge. Either straight up for 3 m or more easily gain the crack on the right and climb this to the overhangs. Traverse left to gain a ledge belay.

2. 18 m From the left of the niche step up and follow easy ground to the foot of a prominent crack. Climb this for about 6 m to a stance and peg belay.

3. 22 m Using the dubious-looking holds on the right gain the slab on the right and continue round the arete to an easy looking crack. Climb this and exit left to easy ground.

Directly below the skyline flake is a finger of rock (9 m high), about one third of the way up the cliff. The climb gains this finger by starting 6 m to the right.

1. 9 m Climb up to the slab and traverse about 19ft. left until the arete just left of the bush can be followed to a niche belay.

2. 12 m Gain the chimney on the left of the finger which leads to the bay and belay below another chimney to the right.

3. 31 m The chimney leads to a gully and easy climbing.

( Alternate start: a few feet right of the ordinary route. Climb to the level of the finger and traverse left to its base at 9 m. Now up the crack behind the finger. Unclimbed as of the old guidebook).

The bay has an obvious chimney on the left, with a large chockstone two-thirds of the way up. Start beneath chimney.

1. 15 m A short awkward chimney leads to an impressive crack. Traverse left past another crack, to reach the foot of a second chimney. Climb this to to a stance on top of a pinnacle.

2. 9 m Gain the ledge on the right and follow the arete until a move can be made which leads to the foot of a chimney.

3. 19 m Follow the chimney until a traverse right can be made into the steep right-hand chimney. Climb this until one can reach the large chockstone on the face.

4. 12 m Easily to top.

To the right of The Tree is a grassy bay, in the centre of which stands a buttress partially split by a vertical groove.

1. 34 m Consistently interesting. Start the groove with difficulty (crux). When it lies back at about 14 m, take the crack and nose on the left. Belay on a ledge about 6 m below the change of slope.

2. 40 m More easily, the angle soon relents and the climb ends in a scramble.

In the middle of Springs Wall there is a bay. Start right of this bay where the rock is at its lowest and there is a steep groove.

1. 32 m Climb the corner groove (peg runner) till it ends beneath a steep blank wall. Climb this wall to belay on a good ledge below a big corner.

2. 16 m Climb the corner, traverse left onto the brown wall and ascend the central crack. Good belay ledge at top.

3. 44 m Move left around the corner. Straight up to finish.

Start about 24 m right of the direct start.

1. 24 m Up a staircase at first ending in a large recess on the right. Block belays.

2. 30 m Descend a little and traverse left to the bush. Climb up from the bush for about 8 m onto a shattered slab. Traverse left taking the upper of two small slabs. A final step leads to the rib bounding pitch 2 of the.original route. Belay on the rib.

3. Descend into the corner and traverse onto brown wall to join the original route.

Some 60 m right of the right-most fig tree a huge boulder lies against the cliff with a tiny cave to its left. Above, shattered cracks lead to a pale corner with a crack to the left. Climb the shattered cracks to a short steep wall; above this climb an easy corner and move right to the arete (30 m). Move back into corner and climb the clean grey corner by a crack on the left (crux at start); where the crack narrows move left over dubious rock to a stance (20 m). Step right and move up over loose-looking blocks to regain the corner. Bridge up this (V) in a spectacular position till easy ground leads left to the top.

Start approximately 91 m left of Simplex. The grassy bay rises in two bumps. At the top of the left-hand bump, the start is marked with an arrow.

1. 18 m Climb straight up for 6 m until forced to step left and then up onto a block. Bear right to a good ledge and thread belay.

2. 16 m Immediately on the right is a large pinnacle (not obvious from below). Chimney up behind this until the top Is reached. Step down to the left and traverse left easily along large ledges until an awkward step down left can be made. Up right to a ledge and belay below an overhanging crack above the awkward step.

3. 18 m Climb the crack (much easier than it looks) and then the arete above until an easy rake is reached.

4. 25 m Follow the rake right and then straight up.

Start at the lowest point of the cliff in this section about 137 m from the right end. Marked with an "S".

1. 29 m Climb up for 1.5 m then traverse left for 3 m to below a grass ledge. Gain this from the left and bear slightly left to a ramp which leads to a good ledge and peg belay.

2. 14 m Climb up this wall behind the belay moving left at half height to a thread belay below a wide deep crack.

3. 20 m Follow the crack until it overhangs. Traverse up right and then back left to join the crack at a large chockstone belay.

4. 20 m Traverse back right for 5 m to a wide crack which is followed to a niche and exit right to a sloping ledge. Easy rock leads to the top.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

40m. R of Excelsior there is a pale, blank wall. The R side of this has a vertical crack system running from top to bottom. Start in a slight recess directly below the cracks.

1. 20m 5a. Gain a L—facing flake crack, climb this then up to a boulder-strewn ledge.

2. 25m 5b. Traverse R below the overhanging, rotten base of the main crack. Up steeply to slab, step back L into crack which is followed to a comfortable ledge and belay on the L.

3. 15m 5b/c. Continue up crack to ledge. Traverse L round and arete to a good hanging belay.

4. 20m 5c/6a. Climb the arete L of the belay and steep crack above to a deep bay and good belays.

5. 20m. Easier ground on the R leads to the top.

See p.23 of MCK bulletin 86 for full write-up.