| Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 星期二 6th 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
| 18 Hard |
The Sufferer and the Witness
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 37m, 3 | 一般 | |||
|
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
|
||||||
| 星期一 5th 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Kykkeliky
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 25m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
|
||||||
| 20 ~19 |
★ Sundowning Syndrome
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 20m, 5 | 一般 | |||
|
A bit squeezed at the top.
|
||||||
| 17 Hard |
★★ Iboga
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 30m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
|
||||||
| 星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 18 Hard |
★ Natural Selection
| 26m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
|
||||||
| 18 |
★ Human Intervention
- with
Aidan Sarginson
| 28m, 9 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.
|
||||||
| 星期六 3rd 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Yacht Club | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 20m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
|
||||||
| 18 |
King Of The World
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 23m, 5 | 一般 | |||
|
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
|
||||||
| 星期五 2nd 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Aidan Sarginson
| 27m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
|
||||||
| 星期四 4th 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air)
- with
Gareth, Justin Wimmer
| 15m, 8 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
|
||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth, Justin Wimmer
| 28m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
|
||||||
| 16 ~17 |
★★ Blindmans Bluff
- with
Gareth
| 28m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
|
||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Justin Wimmer, Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
| 18 |
★ Critters Corner
- with
Justin Wimmer
| 25m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
|
||||||
| 星期三 3rd 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 19 Hard |
★★ The Sweet and the Savage
- with
Gareth
| 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
|
||||||
| 20 |
★ Sunday School
- with
Gareth
| 17m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
|
||||||
| 20 |
★ Sunday School
- with
Gareth
| 17m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
|
||||||
| 星期二 2nd 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Elephant Buttress Upper tier | ||||||
| 17 |
★★ Elephant's Revenge
- with
Gareth
| 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.
|
||||||
| 星期二 2nd 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Elephant Buttress Middle tier | ||||||
| 15 Hard |
Irrelephant
- with
Gareth
| 8m | 一般 | |||
|
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
|
||||||
| 星期二 2nd 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
| 17 Hard |
★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981
- with
Gareth
| 30m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
|
||||||
| 星期四 28th 12月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus
- with
Jonno Rau, Gareth
| 18m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Nice line, could use a brush.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★★ Boat Ramp Crack
- with
Jonno Rau, Gareth
| 45m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
|
||||||
| 星期三 27th 12月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Jonno Rau, Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
|
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
|
||||||
| 星期三 27th 12月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor
- with
Jonno Rau, Gareth
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
| 18 |
★★ Outboard Crack
- with
Jonno Rau, Gareth
| 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.
|
||||||
| 星期一 23rd 10月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 16 Easy |
★★ The Gecko Groove
- with
Gareth
| 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.
|
||||||
| 星期一 23rd 10月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Bitten By A Cobra
- with
Gareth
| 25m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★★ Manbearpig
- with
Gareth
| 15m | ★ 好 | |||
|
The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★ Alice In Wonderland
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Gear within half a metre of every bolt.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★★ The Mad Hatter
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Loose bolt tightening. Horrified at how much more extensive the trampled earth is and the extra tracks coming in. Unsustainable.
|
||||||
| 星期天 22nd 10月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ Road Tripping
- with
Gareth
| 48m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★★ Super Natural
- with
Gareth
| 45m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
|
||||||
| 星期六 21st 10月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 16 |
★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2
- with
Gareth
2
20
lead by
John Pitcairn
Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG. | 20m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
| 18 |
★★ Guardians of the Galaxy P1-2
- with
Gareth
| 35m, 28 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.
|
||||||
| 19 |
★★ Dirty Dancing
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★ Ducky Fuzz
- with
Gareth
| 15m | 一般 | |||
|
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
|
||||||
| 星期五 20th 10月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Side pull flake still present.
|
||||||
| 17 Hard |
★★ Sunset Boulevard
- with
Gareth
| 18m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.
|
||||||
| 星期五 20th 10月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 20 ~19 |
★ Sundowning Syndrome
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 5 | 一般 | |||
|
I think it's 19.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★ Jug Addiction
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 8 | 一般 | |||
|
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
|
||||||
| 星期一 10th 4月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ Outboard Crack
- with
Gareth
| 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
1pm start, still a tad slippery in places after overnight rain. Couldn't get Jonno's nut out of Flake 7 on the way down.
|
||||||
| 星期天 9th 4月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Mr Mojo
- with
Gareth
1
22
30m
lead by
John Pitcairn
Great pitch. Pumpy through the crimps, needed a sit. A number of attempts at finding the crux sequence with several chunky falls. Core shot the rope but didn't notice, shiiittt. Belayed at the new lower anchor, removed a loose rock and lowered it.
2
18
30m
lead by
Gareth
Loose rock, lichen, confusing bolting at top, scrabbly topout over loose gravel to overcrowded caveman anchor. Not 19. Removes a star, don't bother, just do P1. | 60m, 13 | ★ 好 | |||
| 16 ~15 |
Sweet 16s Not M16s
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 9 | 不值一提 | |||
|
Warmup. Meh.
|
||||||
| 星期六 8th 4月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Kykkeliky
- with
Gareth
| 25m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Adventure climbing in failing light. Spiderwebs, bushes, lichen, runout, tree anchor, wouldn't have it any other way. Needed a wee swim after, brrr.
|
||||||
| 20 ~19 |
★ Sundowning Syndrome
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 5 | 一般 | |||
|
A bit confusing at the crux where routes are just too close together.
|
||||||
| 19 |
★★ Pinch and a Punch
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.
|
||||||
| 星期六 8th 4月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Flake 7
- with
Gareth, Jonno Rau
| 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Right face in middle could use a scrub. Jonno has left some booty at crux if anyone can get it out.
|
||||||
| 17 Hard |
★★ Sunset Boulevard
- with
Gareth
| 18m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Harder than I remember through middle. Missed the good foot out right.
|
||||||
| 星期五 7th 4月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air)
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 8 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Can't reach the finger lock at the crux directly from the stance, but a thumb press out left and right foot on the wee feature allows shoulder rotation to do the job.
|
||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth
| 28m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
1 fall at first crux. Hard on the skin.
|
||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Perfect conditions for it.
|
||||||
| 16 ~17 |
★★ Blindmans Bluff
- with
Gareth
| 28m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Thin crack only at start.
|
||||||
| 星期三 4th 1月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Safety in Numbers
| 30m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Consistent all the way. A lot of lichen makes it hard to spot the feet and at times you are on lichen slopers. High priority for a clean. Topped out through some dead bushy stuff I didn't remember being there, couldn't find the anchor, then discovered a tree had died and fallen right onto it. Considerable swearing while balanced on more lichen. Got anchored then spent a while wrenching the tree off and sent it down. Rap cleaned. This will be bloody great after a good brush.
|
||||||
| 19 Hard |
★★ Sidewinder
- with
Jonno Rau
1
19
32
2
19
10
3
17
19
| 61m, 17 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Unexpectedly slipped off onto the first bolt, lowered and pulled the rope for another go. Should have warmed up on something. Strayed too far right after that, hard to get back left. Might remember next time. Got up and off with just a few spots of rain, sheltered from the NE.
|
||||||
| 星期二 3rd 1月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Jonno Rau
| 28m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Feeling OK at the crux, then discovered I was z-clipped and not going anywhere. Cooked myself undoing that from the crux position then peeled off into the tree trying to make the move. Hauled up then got it. Idiot.
|
||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Jonno Rau
| 27m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
|
A good first go by Jonno. Crux flake is still attached.
|
||||||
| 16 Easy |
★★ The Gecko Groove
- with
Jonno Rau
| 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Back-cleaned a #1 and #3. Doubles at those sizes would make sense.
|
||||||
| 星期一 2nd 1月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 19 |
★★★ The Hecklers
- with
Jonno Rau
| 45m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
|
This is so good. Took quite an effort after no climbing for 2 months. A clean of the right face would help find more rests.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★★ Super Natural
- with
Jonno Rau
| 45m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Always good. Still pretty clean, present me thanks past me.
|
||||||
| 18 |
★★★ After the Sunset P1
1
18
30m
| 30m, 42 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Warmup. The first of the two good pitches for the route (P5 is the other). Bloody nice.
|
||||||
| 星期天 1st 1月 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 17 |
★★ Manbearpig
- with
Jonno Rau
| 15m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Quite a change in character after Korimako...
|
||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Korimako
- with
Jonno Rau
| 25m, 11 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Re-sent. Great conditions, cool and dry sure makes a difference. Somebody left draws on, got a surprise when the one at the top of the slab was a triple-locker (hate 'em), and another when the final draw up the dihedral wasn't there.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★ Alice In Wonderland
- with
Jonno Rau
| 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
|
New Year's Day and hardly anyone here? Unbelievable. A much more absorbing route on gear.
|
||||||
| 星期一 18th 4月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 16 |
★★ The Gecko Groove
- with
Gareth
| 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Late start, a bit cold and stiff, foot jamming not very welcome. Neither of us feeling very enthusiastic, back to camp for lunch and pack up.
|
||||||
| 星期天 17th 4月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
| 18 19 |
★★ Sex Panther
- with
Gareth, Greg, Amy, Arlo
| 40m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
|
Group Sex Panther. Started up late in the day, led as one pitch with some nervy moments avoiding the loose block at midway. Settled in at sunset for a lengthy belay session bringing up three seconds, watched the moon rise, then we all had a headlamp strobe disco on the ledge. Back to camp around 8.30pm. Thanks to Matt for the extra rope.
|
||||||
| 星期天 17th 4月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Greg, Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Rock getting a bit warm, but probably the smoothest I've ever managed. The small crux sidepull flake is flexing, somebody will get a surprise soon.
|
||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth, Amy
| 28m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
|
Haha, unsent again. Had a brain fart at the second crux, one take to sort my shit out rather than take the plummet into the tree again.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★ The Slot Machine
- with
Gareth
| 15m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Possibly the least gear I have ever placed on this at 5 pieces, but I was bumping the single #3 cam. The block at the bottom is not loose, but it is fairly hollow. There is a good 0.3 cam as alternative first piece just below it.
|
||||||
| 星期六 16th 4月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Pinch and a Punch
- with
Greg, Gareth
| 20m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Shortly before dark, among the AURAC hordes. Sure keeps you honest, held a foot slip at the expense of some finger skin. Then time for Gareth's grindr assault on Respect My Authoritah.
|
||||||
| 星期六 16th 4月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Safety in Numbers
- with
Greg, Gareth
| 30m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Also bloody good. Started in a post-lunch coma but woke up pretty fast. Great slabby moves, fairly sustained at 20+ most of the way. Possibly 3 stars if it was cleaner, though it's clean enough if you trust the occasional lichen smear. Should have led it dammit, will be back for that.
|
||||||
| 19 |
★★ Survival of the Fittest
- with
Greg, Gareth
| 40m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.
|
||||||
| 星期五 15th 4月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Baloo
- with
Greg
| 18m, 9 | 一般 | |||
|
Pretty straightforward and not worth a star in my opinion.
|
||||||
| 23 |
★ Kaa's Kingdom
- with
Greg, Gareth
| 18m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Top rope fail and lower, couldn't stand up off the crux crimps. But getting up to there is pretty neat. Stiffer shoes with a lower profile toe might help.
|
||||||
| 19 |
★★ Tropic Thunder
- with
Greg, Gareth
| 18m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Quite a bit trickier than it looks, and really good. Some difficult off-balance jamming through the corner, then eases up top. A full double rack is overkill unless you want to stitch it up, but doubles of 0.4 thru 1 may be handy. The 2 bolts are just an annoyance.
|
||||||
| 19 |
★★ Bandar-log
- with
Greg
| 18m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.
|
||||||
| 星期六 5th 2月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.
|
||||||
| 18 |
★ Respect My Authoritah
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Went easily now the gritty feet have cleaned up. Going right to the sloper-undercling thing is a bit harder, but still no more than 18 and not stiff.
|
||||||
| 星期六 5th 2月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air)
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 8 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Getting really really humid early afternoon. Foot greased off the crux flake.
|
||||||
| 18 |
★ Critters Corner
- with
Gareth
| 25m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Committing. Up the slab solo until the corner and #1 nut. A cam behind the crux flake is avoidable with a decent blue totem in a small flaring slot at its bottom right, ball nut in a thin crack a bit below and right (didn't have any), and a nut in the flake at half height, then a stance and gear above. Top of the flake definitely flexing a little. A #4 wouldn't hurt at the top (didn't have that either).
|
||||||
| 20 |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
| 星期四 3rd 2月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 19 |
★★★ The Hecklers
- with
Gareth
| 45m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
|
Bloody great. Right face could really use a scrub. Gareth seconded clean, good effort. We could see and hear Katie and Joe up at the crux on the Odyssey.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★★ Super Natural
- with
Gareth
| 45m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Sun broke out halfway which prompted quite a speedup. Staying clean enough, though you'll always have to dig out the thin crack a little around the crux.
|
||||||
| 18 |
★★ Bi-Curious George
- with
Gareth
| 32m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Gareth had a small touch-up scrub. The roof isn't the crux if you use a little brain.
|
||||||
| 14 |
★★ Sunset Ledge
- with
Gareth
| 28m | ★ 好 | |||
|
Lugged the trad gear out, warmup. Crack pretty clean.
|
||||||
| 星期三 2nd 2月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 16 |
★ Alice In Wonderland
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Did both crux variations. Right is harder than left.
|
||||||
| 20 |
★★ Korimako
- with
Gareth
| 25m, 11 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Unsent. Felt harder than last time, maybe humidity, maybe some crystals have ground off, maybe the different shoes, maybe just having a shit day.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★★ Samurai Pizza Cats
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 9 | ★ 好 | |||
|
A bit tired, drizzly morning, then dodging the sun. Rather a large bush spider in one of the holds at the lip. Fortunately there are plenty of other holds.
|
||||||
| 星期二 1st 2月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth
| 28m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
|
7.30pm and finally starting to cool off a bit. No warmup just punch it and milk the rests. Got a bit too focused and accidentally skipped the crux bolt. Bloody great, and off the unsent list.
|
||||||
| 星期二 1st 2月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Sidewinder
- with
Gareth
| 60m, 17 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Hard to believe I've never done this, it's great. The name is all the beta you need. Pitch 2 is a wee ripper, dancing up the overhanging wall on decent jugs.
|
||||||
| 18 |
★ Human Intervention
- with
Gareth
| 28m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Still like it. It could be cleaner at the top. Some interesting complaints from G.
|
||||||
| 星期一 31st 1月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Dirty Dancing
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Vague sense of slacking, walked up to do something before dark.
|
||||||
| 星期一 31st 1月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Flake 7
- with
Gareth
| 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Been a while. A lovely climb, great passive gear at the crux, though now not sure about that upgrade. Felt solid 18.
|
||||||
| 20 |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Benchmark 20, if it's harder than this it's 21...
|
||||||
| 16 |
★★ The Gecko Groove
- with
Gareth
| 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
No cams used. Tricams handy to protect the top but there is probably some nut-craft available if you want to be even slower...
|
||||||
| 星期天 30th 1月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Kykkeliky
- with
Gareth
| 25m | ★ 好 | |||
|
It's not 2 stars but it's definitely worth doing. There is sufficient gear in the "runout" cave section if you use your eyes and brain.
|
||||||
| 星期二 4th 1月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Off the "unsent" list, and easily, retrieving Alex's draws. Two fingers and a thumb on the crystal spike provides good attitude control and lets you look around the corner for the sidepull. Gareth found some sketchy tall bastard beta to avoid the whole drama. Time to pack up.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★★ Sunset Boulevard
- with
Gareth
| 18m | ★★ 很好 | |||
|
Final morning warmup. Bloody nice.
|
||||||
| 星期一 3rd 1月 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Secret Squirrel
- with
Gareth
| 20m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Warmdown 2. Use the right arete at the low crux and it's on the soft side of 17.
|
||||||
| 16 |
★ Sugar Rush
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 5 | 一般 | |||
|
Warmdown 1. Would probably be a decent slab, but pretty dirty. Anyone want to scrub it properly?
|
||||||
| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
|
Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.
|
||||||