Ascensions dans Kawakawa Bay par John Pitcairn

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 343 ascensions.

	Cotation	Voie	Style d'escalade	Qualité
Mar 6 Fév 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Upper Bluff
	18 Difficile	The Sufferer and the Witness - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Trad mixte 37m, 3	Dans la moyenne
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
Lun 5 Fév 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Kykkeliky - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Bon
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
	20 ~19	★ Sundowning Syndrome - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Sportive 20m, 5	Dans la moyenne
A bit squeezed at the top.
	17 Difficile	★★ Iboga - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Trad mixte 30m, 1	★★ Excellent
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
Dim 4 Fév 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	18 Difficile	★ Natural Selection	Trad 26m	★ Bon
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
	18	★ Human Intervention - avec Aidan Sarginson	Sportive 28m, 9	★ Bon
Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.
Sam 3 Fév 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Yacht Club
	19	★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Sportive 20m, 4	★ Bon
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
	18	King Of The World - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Sportive 23m, 5	Dans la moyenne
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
Ven 2 Fév 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20 Difficile	★★ Great Scott - avec Aidan Sarginson	Sportive 27m, 10	★ Bon
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
Jeu 4 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - avec Gareth, Justin Wimmer	Sportive 15m, 8	★ Bon
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - avec Gareth, Justin Wimmer	Sportive 28m, 11	★★ Excellent
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
	16 ~17	★★ Blindmans Bluff - avec Gareth	Trad 28m	★ Bon
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
	20 Difficile	★★ Great Scott - avec Justin Wimmer, Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
	18	★ Critters Corner - avec Justin Wimmer	Trad 25m	★ Bon
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
Mer 3 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19 Difficile	★★ The Sweet and the Savage - avec Gareth	Trad 30m	★★ Excellent
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
	20	★ Sunday School - avec Gareth	Sportive 17m, 4	★ Bon
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
	20	★ Sunday School - avec Gareth	Sportive 17m, 4	★ Bon
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
	17	★★ Elephant's Revenge - avec Gareth	Trad 15m	★★ Excellent
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
	15 Difficile	Irrelephant - avec Gareth	Trad 8m	Dans la moyenne
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
	17 Difficile	★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - avec Gareth	Trad mixte 30m, 3	★ Bon
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
Jeu 28 Déc 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	18	★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - avec Jonno Rau, Gareth	Trad 18m	★ Bon
Nice line, could use a brush.
	17	★★ Boat Ramp Crack - avec Jonno Rau, Gareth	Trad 45m	★★ Excellent
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
Mer 27 Déc 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	22	★★ Predator - avec Jonno Rau, Gareth	Sportive 12m, 5	★ Bon
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
Mer 27 Déc 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	18	★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor - avec Jonno Rau, Gareth	Sportive 15m, 6	★ Bon
	18	★★ Outboard Crack - avec Jonno Rau, Gareth	Trad 20m	★★ Excellent
Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.
Lun 23 Oct. 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	16 Facile	★★ The Gecko Groove - avec Gareth	Trad 28m	★★ Excellent
Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.
Lun 23 Oct. 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Secret Garden
	19	★★ Bitten By A Cobra - avec Gareth	Trad mixte 25m, 4	★★ Excellent
A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.
	17	★★ Manbearpig - avec Gareth	Trad 15m	★ Bon
The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.
	16	★ Alice In Wonderland - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 7	★ Bon
Gear within half a metre of every bolt.
	17	★★ The Mad Hatter - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 10	★ Bon
Loose bolt tightening. Horrified at how much more extensive the trampled earth is and the extra tracks coming in. Unsustainable.
Dim 22 Oct. 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	18	★★ Road Tripping - avec Gareth	Sportive 48m, 14	★★ Excellent
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
	16	★★ Super Natural - avec Gareth	Trad 45m	★★ Excellent
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
Sam 21 Oct. 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	16	★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2 - avec Gareth 2 20 Trad grimpé en tête par John Pitcairn Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG.	Trad mixte 20m, 14	★★ Excellent
	18	★★ Guardians of the Galaxy P1-2 - avec Gareth 1 18 20 En second grimpé en tête par Gareth Linked both pitches. Really nice flowy movement if you don't try to face climb it. 2 18 15 En second grimpé en tête par Gareth Linked into Don't Hurt My Kowhai P2	Sportive 35m, 28	★★ Excellent
Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.
	19	★★ Dirty Dancing - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m, 6	★ Bon
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
	17	★ Ducky Fuzz - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m	Dans la moyenne
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
Ven 20 Oct. 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20 Difficile	★★ Great Scott - avec Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
Side pull flake still present.
	17 Difficile	★★ Sunset Boulevard - avec Gareth	Trad 18m	★★ Excellent
Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.
Ven 20 Oct. 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	20 ~19	★ Sundowning Syndrome - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 5	Dans la moyenne
I think it's 19.
	16	★ Jug Addiction - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 8	Dans la moyenne
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
Lun 10 Avr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	18	★★ Outboard Crack - avec Gareth	Trad 20m	★★ Excellent
1pm start, still a tad slippery in places after overnight rain. Couldn't get Jonno's nut out of Flake 7 on the way down.
Dim 9 Avr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	22	★★ Mr Mojo - avec Gareth 1 22 30m Sportive grimpé en tête par John Pitcairn Great pitch. Pumpy through the crimps, needed a sit. A number of attempts at finding the crux sequence with several chunky falls. Core shot the rope but didn't notice, shiiittt. Belayed at the new lower anchor, removed a loose rock and lowered it. 2 18 30m En second grimpé en tête par Gareth Loose rock, lichen, confusing bolting at top, scrabbly topout over loose gravel to overcrowded caveman anchor. Not 19. Removes a star, don't bother, just do P1.	Sportive 60m, 13	★ Bon
	16 ~15	Sweet 16s Not M16s - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 9	Pas la peine
Warmup. Meh.
Sam 8 Avr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Kykkeliky - avec Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Bon
Adventure climbing in failing light. Spiderwebs, bushes, lichen, runout, tree anchor, wouldn't have it any other way. Needed a wee swim after, brrr.
	20 ~19	★ Sundowning Syndrome - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 5	Dans la moyenne
A bit confusing at the crux where routes are just too close together.
	19	★★ Pinch and a Punch - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 7	★★ Excellent
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.
Sam 8 Avr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	19	★★ Flake 7 - avec Gareth, Jonno Rau	Trad 20m	★★ Excellent
Right face in middle could use a scrub. Jonno has left some booty at crux if anyone can get it out.
	17 Difficile	★★ Sunset Boulevard - avec Gareth	Trad 18m	★★ Excellent
Harder than I remember through middle. Missed the good foot out right.
Ven 7 Avr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m, 8	★ Bon
Can't reach the finger lock at the crux directly from the stance, but a thumb press out left and right foot on the wee feature allows shoulder rotation to do the job.
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - avec Gareth	Sportive 28m, 11	★★ Excellent
1 fall at first crux. Hard on the skin.
	20 Difficile	★★ Great Scott - avec Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
Perfect conditions for it.
	16 ~17	★★ Blindmans Bluff - avec Gareth	Trad 28m	★ Bon
Thin crack only at start.
Mer 4 Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	22	★★ Safety in Numbers	Sportive 30m, 14	★★ Excellent
Consistent all the way. A lot of lichen makes it hard to spot the feet and at times you are on lichen slopers. High priority for a clean. Topped out through some dead bushy stuff I didn't remember being there, couldn't find the anchor, then discovered a tree had died and fallen right onto it. Considerable swearing while balanced on more lichen. Got anchored then spent a while wrenching the tree off and sent it down. Rap cleaned. This will be bloody great after a good brush.
	19 Difficile	★★ Sidewinder - avec Jonno Rau 1 19 32 Sportive 2 19 10 En second 3 17 19 Sportive	Sportive 61m, 17	★★ Excellent
Unexpectedly slipped off onto the first bolt, lowered and pulled the rope for another go. Should have warmed up on something. Strayed too far right after that, hard to get back left. Might remember next time. Got up and off with just a few spots of rain, sheltered from the NE.
Mar 3 Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - avec Jonno Rau	Sportive 28m, 11	★★ Excellent
Feeling OK at the crux, then discovered I was z-clipped and not going anywhere. Cooked myself undoing that from the crux position then peeled off into the tree trying to make the move. Hauled up then got it. Idiot.
	20 Difficile	★★ Great Scott - avec Jonno Rau	Sportive 27m, 10	★ Bon
A good first go by Jonno. Crux flake is still attached.
	16 Facile	★★ The Gecko Groove - avec Jonno Rau	Trad 28m	★★ Excellent
Back-cleaned a #1 and #3. Doubles at those sizes would make sense.
Lun 2 Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19	★★★ The Hecklers - avec Jonno Rau	Trad 45m	★★★ Classique
This is so good. Took quite an effort after no climbing for 2 months. A clean of the right face would help find more rests.
	16	★★ Super Natural - avec Jonno Rau	Trad 45m	★★ Excellent
Always good. Still pretty clean, present me thanks past me.
	18	★★★ After the Sunset P1 1 18 30m Sportive	Sportive 30m, 42	★★ Excellent
Warmup. The first of the two good pitches for the route (P5 is the other). Bloody nice.
Dim 1 Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Secret Garden
	17	★★ Manbearpig - avec Jonno Rau	Trad 15m	★ Bon
Quite a change in character after Korimako...
	20 Difficile	★★ Korimako - avec Jonno Rau	Sportive 25m, 11	★ Bon
Re-sent. Great conditions, cool and dry sure makes a difference. Somebody left draws on, got a surprise when the one at the top of the slab was a triple-locker (hate 'em), and another when the final draw up the dihedral wasn't there.
	16	★ Alice In Wonderland - avec Jonno Rau	Sportive 20m, 7	★ Bon
New Year's Day and hardly anyone here? Unbelievable. A much more absorbing route on gear.
Lun 18 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	16	★★ The Gecko Groove - avec Gareth	Trad 28m	★★ Excellent
Late start, a bit cold and stiff, foot jamming not very welcome. Neither of us feeling very enthusiastic, back to camp for lunch and pack up.
Dim 17 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Upper Bluff
	18 19	★★ Sex Panther - avec Gareth, Greg, Amy, Arlo	Trad mixte 40m, 6	★★★ Classique
Group Sex Panther. Started up late in the day, led as one pitch with some nervy moments avoiding the loose block at midway. Settled in at sunset for a lengthy belay session bringing up three seconds, watched the moon rise, then we all had a headlamp strobe disco on the ledge. Back to camp around 8.30pm. Thanks to Matt for the extra rope.
Dim 17 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ Great Scott - avec Greg, Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
Rock getting a bit warm, but probably the smoothest I've ever managed. The small crux sidepull flake is flexing, somebody will get a surprise soon.
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - avec Gareth, Amy	Sportive 28m, 11	★★★ Classique
Haha, unsent again. Had a brain fart at the second crux, one take to sort my shit out rather than take the plummet into the tree again.
	17	★ The Slot Machine - avec Gareth	Trad 15m	★ Bon
Possibly the least gear I have ever placed on this at 5 pieces, but I was bumping the single #3 cam. The block at the bottom is not loose, but it is fairly hollow. There is a good 0.3 cam as alternative first piece just below it.
Sam 16 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	19	★★ Pinch and a Punch - avec Greg, Gareth	Sportive 20m, 7	★★ Excellent
Shortly before dark, among the AURAC hordes. Sure keeps you honest, held a foot slip at the expense of some finger skin. Then time for Gareth's grindr assault on Respect My Authoritah.
Sam 16 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	22	★★ Safety in Numbers - avec Greg, Gareth	Sportive 30m, 14	★★ Excellent
Also bloody good. Started in a post-lunch coma but woke up pretty fast. Great slabby moves, fairly sustained at 20+ most of the way. Possibly 3 stars if it was cleaner, though it's clean enough if you trust the occasional lichen smear. Should have led it dammit, will be back for that.
	19	★★ Survival of the Fittest - avec Greg, Gareth	Sportive 40m, 14	★★ Excellent
Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.
Ven 15 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Jungle Wall
	18	★ Baloo - avec Greg	Sportive 18m, 9	Dans la moyenne
Pretty straightforward and not worth a star in my opinion.
	23	★ Kaa's Kingdom - avec Greg, Gareth	Sportive 18m, 10	★ Bon
Top rope fail and lower, couldn't stand up off the crux crimps. But getting up to there is pretty neat. Stiffer shoes with a lower profile toe might help.
	19	★★ Tropic Thunder - avec Greg, Gareth	Trad mixte 18m, 2	★★ Excellent
Quite a bit trickier than it looks, and really good. Some difficult off-balance jamming through the corner, then eases up top. A full double rack is overkill unless you want to stitch it up, but doubles of 0.4 thru 1 may be handy. The 2 bolts are just an annoyance.
	19	★★ Bandar-log - avec Greg	Sportive 18m, 10	★ Bon
Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.
Sam 5 Fév 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	22	★★ Predator - avec Gareth	Sportive 12m, 5	★ Bon
Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.
	18	★ Respect My Authoritah - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 5	★ Bon
Went easily now the gritty feet have cleaned up. Going right to the sloper-undercling thing is a bit harder, but still no more than 18 and not stiff.
Sam 5 Fév 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m, 8	★ Bon
Getting really really humid early afternoon. Foot greased off the crux flake.
	18	★ Critters Corner - avec Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Bon
Committing. Up the slab solo until the corner and #1 nut. A cam behind the crux flake is avoidable with a decent blue totem in a small flaring slot at its bottom right, ball nut in a thin crack a bit below and right (didn't have any), and a nut in the flake at half height, then a stance and gear above. Top of the flake definitely flexing a little. A #4 wouldn't hurt at the top (didn't have that either).
	20	★★ Great Scott - avec Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
Jeu 3 Fév 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19	★★★ The Hecklers - avec Gareth	Trad 45m	★★★ Classique
Bloody great. Right face could really use a scrub. Gareth seconded clean, good effort. We could see and hear Katie and Joe up at the crux on the Odyssey.
	16	★★ Super Natural - avec Gareth	Trad 45m	★★ Excellent
Sun broke out halfway which prompted quite a speedup. Staying clean enough, though you'll always have to dig out the thin crack a little around the crux.
	18	★★ Bi-Curious George - avec Gareth	Sportive 32m	★ Bon
Gareth had a small touch-up scrub. The roof isn't the crux if you use a little brain.
	14	★★ Sunset Ledge - avec Gareth	Trad 28m	★ Bon
Lugged the trad gear out, warmup. Crack pretty clean.
Mer 2 Fév 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Secret Garden
	16	★ Alice In Wonderland - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 7	★ Bon
Did both crux variations. Right is harder than left.
	20	★★ Korimako - avec Gareth	Sportive 25m, 11	★ Bon
Unsent. Felt harder than last time, maybe humidity, maybe some crystals have ground off, maybe the different shoes, maybe just having a shit day.
	17	★★ Samurai Pizza Cats - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m, 9	★ Bon
A bit tired, drizzly morning, then dodging the sun. Rather a large bush spider in one of the holds at the lip. Fortunately there are plenty of other holds.
Mar 1 Fév 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - avec Gareth	Sportive 28m, 11	★★★ Classique
7.30pm and finally starting to cool off a bit. No warmup just punch it and milk the rests. Got a bit too focused and accidentally skipped the crux bolt. Bloody great, and off the unsent list.
Mar 1 Fév 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19	★★ Sidewinder - avec Gareth 1 19 31m grimpé en tête par John Pitcairn 2 19 10m grimpé en tête par John Pitcairn 3 17 19m grimpé en tête par Gareth	Sportive 60m, 17	★★ Excellent
Hard to believe I've never done this, it's great. The name is all the beta you need. Pitch 2 is a wee ripper, dancing up the overhanging wall on decent jugs.
	18	★ Human Intervention - avec Gareth	Sportive 28m, 9	★★ Excellent
Still like it. It could be cleaner at the top. Some interesting complaints from G.
Lun 31 Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	19	★★ Dirty Dancing - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m, 6	★ Bon
Vague sense of slacking, walked up to do something before dark.
Lun 31 Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	19	★★ Flake 7 - avec Gareth	Trad 20m	★★ Excellent
Been a while. A lovely climb, great passive gear at the crux, though now not sure about that upgrade. Felt solid 18.
	20	★★ Great Scott - avec Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
Benchmark 20, if it's harder than this it's 21...
	16	★★ The Gecko Groove - avec Gareth	Trad 28m	★★ Excellent
No cams used. Tricams handy to protect the top but there is probably some nut-craft available if you want to be even slower...
Dim 30 Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Kykkeliky - avec Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Bon
It's not 2 stars but it's definitely worth doing. There is sufficient gear in the "runout" cave section if you use your eyes and brain.
Mar 4 Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ Great Scott - avec Gareth	Sportive 27m, 10	★★ Excellent
Off the "unsent" list, and easily, retrieving Alex's draws. Two fingers and a thumb on the crystal spike provides good attitude control and lets you look around the corner for the sidepull. Gareth found some sketchy tall bastard beta to avoid the whole drama. Time to pack up.
	17	★★ Sunset Boulevard - avec Gareth	Trad 18m	★★ Excellent
Final morning warmup. Bloody nice.
Lun 3 Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Secret Squirrel - avec Gareth	Sportive 20m, 6	★ Bon
Warmdown 2. Use the right arete at the low crux and it's on the soft side of 17.
	16	★ Sugar Rush - avec Gareth	Sportive 15m, 5	Dans la moyenne
Warmdown 1. Would probably be a decent slab, but pretty dirty. Anyone want to scrub it properly?
	22	★★ Predator - avec Gareth	Sportive 12m, 5	★ Bon
Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.

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Ascensions dans Kawakawa Bay par John Pitcairn

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