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West Coast
This vast area has some of the best climbing in the world. Pakhuis bordering, multiday grade 6 alpine stuff, sport and everything in between. |
Wagenpad
Wagenpad is a farm on the border of the Swartland and Sandveld, about 1.5 hours drive north of Cape Town. The farm is situated in a large horse-shoe shaped valley, and the climbing is on the Southern side of the valley. It features one sport crag - the Petra Crag - and a 150-200m (5-6 pitches) wall - Aasvoelkrans- that is exclusively for trad climbing. |
Wagenpad |
Petra Crag
The crag is the lowest prominent yellow/orange cliff band on the Southern side of the valley. From the farm gate, continue going straight up the main farm road. After passing a big white barn on your right, continue going straight uphill until you are near the homestead closest to the cliffs. Before reaching the homestead, there is a smaller road that turns right off the main farm road and continues directly uphill to a Dam. Park here (first parking here: https://goo.gl/maps/Y1gG1Zdjife1eURH7). If you have a 4 x 4, you can continue for another 100m uphill to a parking area near some oak trees and a spring (second parking here: https://goo.gl/maps/3qMXfSCxgcuPGhAd8) . From the parking, follow the cairns and a faint trail for 20 minutes up to the crag (Crag location here: https://goo.gl/maps/Ed31a5UQZiWKC3AH7 ) |
Wagenpad Petra Crag |
20
★★ Cybercoal
Descent: roped scramble down to the anchors, first tending right, then back left. Abseil (35m). Alternatively, it may be more pleasant to extend this route and climb one more pitch up the diagonal crack to reach the abseil fig tree of Wakeling-Bird. It may also be possible to directly reach the anchors of Blue Train further right instead of scrambling down. |
20
Wakeling-Bird
Climb the corner to a roof. Step right. Continue up past aloe to stance on a ledge. Continue up for 1-2 more pitches more or less straight up. No anchors at the top, but there is some abseil-tat around the fig tree at the top (take back up). |
17
Jou Soap
Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk. |
20
Cold Working
Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk. |
21
Simple Man
Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk. |
22
★★★ Big Fish
Either scramble right to the ledge to the first bolt, or do that to clip the bolt and then descend back to the ground and climb directly up. Climb through a couple rails, hit some blank rock whilst moving slightly right and up to another rail. Correct your line back left and go through several powerful sequences ending in a big move breaking through a roof. Easier climbing after this but some of the rock is a bit weak so watch out. A final roof awaits you before the anchors. |
27
Blue Train
35 m route!! This route follows the main arete. |
17
Set controls for the heart of the sun
Climb the large open book crack to a bolted stance under the roof. |
23
Air Karate
Start as or Set controls, climb the finger crack on the left wall at midway. Bolted stance. To be bolted. |
Fraser Route
Start just right of the wide chimney,2m right of 'Set controls for the heart of the sun'. Climb the crack leading right and then the face to a bolted stance. (Can be bolted, needs ~10 bolts) |
23
Solar Solace
Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk. |
19
Dr. Pepper
Climb the layback crack in the corner to a bolted stance. |
23
Hakimi-Bird
P1: Climb the crack to a bolted stance on the left. P2: Climb up past 2 bolts to the top. |
22
The Crossing
Climb the hand crack through the small roof. Continue up to a bolted stance. P2:(22/23)Trad. FFA: G.Bird & J.Wakeling 2019. Second pitch continues straight up to the top. No anchors at the top. |
21
Jethro Louw
Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk. |
17
Jitsvinger
Climb up a crack for 2m, step 2m right to the next crack system. Follow this to the top to a bolted stance. 30m |
20
Sien Jou Weer
Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk. |
Wagenpad |
Aasvoelkrans
Trad |
Wagenpad Aasvoelkrans |
19
Sandstone Smoothie
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21
★★ State of mind
P1: 30m, (17). Start on the prow 5m to the left of the start of Vulture Culture. Climb up to the next ledge system and continue up the orange open book to a ledge. P2: 30m (21). Start on the left-hand end of the ledge. Pull up to a rail. A difficult move leads up to the next rail (small cams and nuts). Move 2m left to where pockets lead up to good hand-holds that can be followed left-wards to a vertical crack (green BD cam). Climb up, moving further left onto the prow before coming back onto the right face and continuing up easier ground to stance on a ledge on the prow with a big jammed block. P3: 30m (17). Continue straight up a crack system to the big lunch ledge. From here the next pitch starts 30m to the right (past a dassie traverse). P4: 30m (16). Start at the base of an off-width crack in an open book. Climb the open book crack to a ledge. Continue up the corner to a stance on a second ledge next to a tree. P5: 30m (18). From the stance, traverse 3m right on good rails to a vertical crack. Follow this to a ledge. P6: 30m (17). Follow the crack system to the top. |
20
★★ Vulture Culture
Start: This route climbs up the large brown open-book system on the left-hand side of the wall. P1: 30m (19). Climb the recess to a ledge, continue up the crack at the centre of the open-book to a large ledge. P2: 30m (20). Continue up the crack until forced left under the roof. Delicate moves lead to a ledge stance on the left-hand edge of the large roof. P3: 35m (17). Climb up the corner and continue straight up to the lunch ledge. P4: 35m (17). Climb up the crack system nearest to the arette, directly above the last pitch. After 15m, cross over to the right hand side of the arette to a scoop. Continue up, passing by the left hand end of the prominent triangular roof visible from the base of the cliff. P5: 30m (15). Continue straight up to the top. |
23
★★ Living Shadow
P1: 35m (17). Start up the corner system 5m to the right of Vulture Culture. Climb up to a ledge and continue straight up the crack system to where it is topped by a small roof. Move 1m left to a Hanging stance. P2: 30m (23). Move up into a corner, step right above the roof and then move back left into a crack . Follow this up to a stance below the prominent chimney/slot. P3. 30m (18). Climb up the chimney/slot. At the top, move 2m right, pull through the overlap into a crack and follow this to stance at a ledge. P4. 30m (17). Move 5m left. Climb the vertical recess leading up to the lunch ledge. P5. 20m (19). At the top of P4 is a face with a set of vertical cracks. Climb the vertical crack second from the right hand edge of the face to a ledge. P6. 15m (17). Move left to a crack system and continue 3m up to a stance. P7. Climb up the face and traverse left into the large chimney system. Continue to the top. |
21
Birdling Route
P1: 17 P2: 21 P3: 16 P4: 18 |
Wagenpad |
Vingerkop
The orange buttress at the east end of the valley. |
Wagenpad Vingerkop |
19
★★ Burn After Sending
Approach: When reaching Vingerkop from the viewpoint at the neck, keep walking aroung the buttress counter clockwise for about 50m. Aspect: Pleasant climbing following an obvious natural line. Enjoy the morning shade when the rest of the valley is blasted by the sun.
Descent: A roped scramble down the gully to the your immediate left brings you back to the previous level, but on the other side of the huge chockstone (abseiling would be preferable). From there, look for the obvious thicket of tree trunks to abseil from, or a large block another level down from the trees. Abseil all the way to the ground (60m ropes). |
Elands Bay/Elandsbaai
Single and multi-pitch trad climbing just outside the village of Elands Bay. Bouldering can be found on blocks along the foot of the mountain. |
Elands Bay/Elandsbaai |
North Buttress |
21
Hey You With The Broken Nose, Sing Daisy!
About 20m left of the overhangs is an obvious crack splitting a face. Climb the arête to the left of this crack to the top. |
Flight of the Swallows
No access issues. |
17
Gunpowder
The climb starts just to the right of Flight of the Swallows. Climb the short, dark face (one or two strenuous moves) into a broad, open chimney. Climb the right-hand face of the chimney for about 10m, before traversing out right onto a grey pillar. Climb this straight to the top. |
21
Constipation Animation
The attraction is the right-facing off-width crack left of the huge overhang (left of The Tail Wags the Dog). Start at the beacon (cairn) and climb the crack to the top. Crux midway up. |
19
The Tail Wags the Dog
This climb follows the crack system to the left of Symphony of Pistons.
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17
Symphony of Pistons
The climb starts about 5m to the right of a large overhang, and ascends the main brown faces.
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18
West Coast Splendour
This route follows the corner midway between Daisies Delight and Symphony of Pistons. Follow the corner up the very steep wall, move right and climb up diagonally into the corner on the right. Exit on the right. |
19
Daisies Delight
This route starts at the first left-facing corner on North Buttress. Climb the undercut section towards the roof, lay out to the right and reach for a jug high up in the corner (crux). Climb the excellent corner above. Move out to the right underneath a huge overhang. Walk off to the right. |
19
Maize Power
Starts to the right of Daisies Delight. It follows the left-hand crack on the short steep face in the descent gully. |
Central Buttress |
15
Up the Wall
This climb ascends the vertical face on the bottom right-hand side of the descent gully (looking from below).
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14
Squiggle
Start to the left of the Mirage nose.
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20
Muscle Beach
The left-hand side of Central Buttress extends out westwards in a prominent, fin shaped feature. Muscle Beach climbs the nose of this feature. Start at the base of the undercut crack and climb the nose to the top. |
22
Mirage
Takes the obvious corner to the right of the nose. |
20
Buttercup Crack
This route starts in the second corner from the left. Beacon (cairn).
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21
★★ Unknown Route 1
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26
Little Number
On Central Buttress there are two prominent, South facing walls (moving from left to right). This route follows a short hairline crack up the second South facing wall to a ledge. |
24
★★ The Snail and the Whale
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21
★★★ Unknown Route 2
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18
Come We Go Up De!
This route starts 10m left of the edge of the mini-amphitheatre. Climb the face to a triangular overhang, through this and up the face to broken rock. Traverse right to a rapp point at the top of Cabbages and Kings corner. |
21
Cabbages and Kings
This route takes the first corner to the right of the mini-amphitheatre. |
20
★★ Siren's Song
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22
★★ Unknown Route 3
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18
Devil's Ballroom
This climb starts about 8m right of a corner, situated right of a large cave/overhang through which one walks at the base of the cliff.
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22
Rhinoforce
Climb through the roof (crux) and up the crack on the left hand side of the amphitheatre. |
25
Le Afrique Physique
Climb the wall, through the overlap and up the crack to a stance |
25
No Mans Land
Climb up the wall, through the overlap to a bolt. Up jugs to finish. |
20
Passion the Rocks
The second line from the amphitheatre edge (4m).
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17
Great Escape
The climb starts just right of the sweeping, overhanging roofs on the extreme right-hand side of the amphitheatre.
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South Buttress |
23
Modern Babylon
The climb takes the prominent crackline on the left-hand side of the dusty amphitheatre.
Descent: walk left to the min descent gully. It is not advisable to come down the first gully. |
20
The Four By Four Convention
On the right-hand side of the right-hand amphitheatre is a crackline.
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26
Boys Just Wanna Have Fun
Just around the corner from The Four By Four Convention is a short overhanging wall. Start on the left-hand side of the upper ledge. Do the first few moves of Happiness and Light moving out left and up to the short wall '18'. Boulder up, past the bolt, on edges and pockets to finish on the top left-hand edge of the wall. Note: wire placements are tricky so so it might be wise to abseil down and preplace them. |
24
Happiness and Light
Climb the short layback crack and up through the overlap to an overhanging corner. Climb this to the top. |
23
Sunbeams and Joy
Start right of Happiness and Light. Climb up to a small overhang. Turn this on its right-hand side and climb up, past the bolt, to the top. Note: protection isn't easily available above the bolt so it might be wise to abseil down first. |
20
Let's Get Physical
This route is on the extreme right-hand side of the cliff-line of South Buttress. Look for a steepish red face capped by a grey corner/groove. |
21
Get More Fun
About a 100m further to the right of Let's Get Physical is an obvious steep red pillar. Where the farm boundary fence terminates against the rockface, walk another 100m to the right. The route starts on a rock platform at the base of the 22m high pillar. Climb this straight up the middle to the highest point. The crux is turning the small overhang three-quarters of the way up. |
20
Topless Dancer
Walk along the overhanging stretch of cliffs to the right, pass an easy looking grey ramp up the middle of the face. Continue to the next easy ramp, which only goes halfway up the face. Immediately to the left of this is an overhanging corner/crack. Start at the beacon and climb straight up, turning the overhang on the left. Scramble down on the right. |
Cederberg
This is a vast area, with multiple landowners, see each subsection for specifics |
Apollo & Luna Peak
Left of Disa Pool |
Cederberg Apollo & Luna Peak |
Apollo Peak
Left of Disa Pool |
Cederberg Apollo & Luna Peak Apollo Peak |
Front/ North Face |
15
Frontal
Private |
Unknown
Private |
17 - 20
Apollo Lift-Off
Private |
14
Moonboot
Private |
19 R
Permission To Land
Private |
The Neck |
D
Original Route
Private |
25
Rocket Pig
Private |
21
Rocket-Man
Private |
East Turret |
19
Dark Side Of The Moon
Private |
Project
Private |
21
Lost In Space
Private |
19
Space Monkeys
Private |
22
Space Cowboy
Private |
22
Space-Walk
Private |
19
Space Race
Private |
24
Luna-tick
Private |
17
Apologetics
Private |
15
Standard Route
Private |
SW Sector |
18
Armstrong Tactics
Private |
16
Half Moon
Private |
20
Artemis
Private |
20
Bar Fight At The End Of The Universe
Private |
23
Milky Way
Private |
Cederberg Apollo & Luna Peak |
Luna Peak
Left of Disa Pool |
Cederberg |
Bobbejaanskop
Cormac Tooze & Brian Watts have bolted the trad routes at the request of the landowner. Good beginner crag with one or two intermediate routes and a very easy approach. Bolting is safe glue-ins with perma draws for some of the easier routes. |