Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期五 16th 2月 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Las uñas de Dori - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 13m, 8 | ||||
No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.
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6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
|
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星期五 16th 2月 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a | ★★ Sapporo - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Mega super soft
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6a/a+ | ★★ Al Capone - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
|
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6c+/7a | ★★★ La marmita - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.
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6c+/7a | ★★★ La marmita - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...
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星期四 15th 2月 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something — 2 attempts - with Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
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星期二 13th 2月 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ 很好 | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | ||||
星期一 12th 2月 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Princesa Mara - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | |||||
6b | ★★ ORC - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 17m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Man, I got fat, weak, whatever
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星期一 12th 2月 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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NN1 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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星期天 11th 2月 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 | ★★ Moretti - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
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5c | ★★ Lucas - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 18m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
|
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6a | ★★ Tierra doy una / Sutra - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
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星期五 24th 2月 2023 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something - with LFF | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!
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7a | ★ Something - with LFF | 12m | ||||
Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.
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星期三 22nd 2月 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c |
★★ Jarribaras P1
- with
LFF
1
5c
| 40m | ||||
Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat
|
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6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- with
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ 经典 | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal Aufwärmen & kalibrieren.
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星期二 21st 2月 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Las Margaritas - with LFF, Giggler | 66m | ||||
Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten
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星期一 20th 2月 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6c | Unknown - with LFF | |||||
Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.
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6a+ | ★★★ Unknown 6a+ - with LFF | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.
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星期天 19th 2月 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
|
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
|
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6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Short cruxy section before the overhang
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | ||||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期六 6th 11月 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Checking out the moves
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
|
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
|
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6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期五 5th 11月 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu | ||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - with Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
|
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星期三 3rd 11月 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Hairpin Wall | ||||||
5 | ★ Right - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ 好 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Pocket - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Until after the crux, but lockdown made me have sissy fingers and sissy feet, just too painful to go on. Otherwise a really nice long and homogeneous climb, stays interesting even in the less steep sections.
|
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5 | ★ Curving Groove - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | 一般 | |||
星期二 2nd 11月 2021 - Sa Font | ||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
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5c 5b - c | ★★ Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | 一般 | |||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
|
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星期天 31st 10月 2021 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
To pa ti | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Lion Slayer - with Jarno, Giggler, Yue | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Skidmark - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ 好 | ||||
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.
|
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6a | ★ Itchy feet - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ 好 | ||||
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.
|
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星期五 28th 2月 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ 好 | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
|
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
One hanger, missed a foothold in the beginning dusk. Should be no problem after optimising a bit the middle section - maybe next time. Incredibly high density of bolts, take all quickdraws you have!
|
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6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- with
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
|
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星期四 27th 2月 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
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星期三 26th 2月 2020 - Tazmania | ||||||
6c | ★★ Madame Déficit - with Sandra †, LFF | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Excellent short & super hard slab, very technical. Should be doable, but definetly would require some runs to find the best sequence. The team requests a trip to the next café instead...
|
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas - with Sandra †, LFF | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.
|
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5+ | ★★ Kulunguele - with Sandra †, LFF | ★ 好 | ||||
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.
|
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星期二 25th 2月 2020 - Cala Bota | ||||||
5c | ★ El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
|
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
|
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星期一 24th 2月 2020 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - with LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Quickdraw rescue
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6c+ | ★★★ Sostre den burotet - with LFF, Sandra † | 15m | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
Stopped on the way home to have a quick sunset try. Great fun, but needs some more work to figure out a more efficient selection of jugs. Epic fight together with LFF to get down the quickdraws.
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星期一 24th 2月 2020 - Es Torrent | ||||||
6c | ★★ Happy Starting - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Very nice athletic route, but the upper bolts are in pretty bad condition. Got super scared because I really didn't wanted to fall; finally reached an anchor which was too rusty for abseiling - continued to the other (good) one higher to the left...
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6a+ | ★★★ Andritxoleta - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Super nice tufa fun
|
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星期天 23rd 2月 2020 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with LFF | 20m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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6b+ | ★ Relaja el hojete - with LFF | 25m, 9 | ||||
Top rope service for LFF Still too wrecked from the fight before.
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ||||
Same procedure as every year, James. Felt strong, climbed well and failed seriously. Basically it goes, but with my sequence I just can't clip the 4th bolt - not because I'm out of the line, but because of barndoor troubles. Maybe there are some possibilities more to the right, but I give up now, finally removed this one from the list of projects.
|
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5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - with Sandra † | 20m, 9 | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 9th 3月 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with LFF | 16m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
|
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4c | ★ Fluffy - with LFF | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 9th 3月 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Colmena | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ella ya no vive aqui - with LFF | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
Too hot, no motivation, time for some chilling around.
|
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星期六 9th 3月 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with LFF | 18m, 7 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
|
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星期五 8th 3月 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
|
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
|
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6b | ★★ Kalki - with Giggler | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
|
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6a | ★★ Touch the sky - with LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
|
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
星期四 7th 3月 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ||||
7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ||||
Almost, almost, just one hanger due to a not entirely nailed beta. And then it was getting dark, once again
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
|
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5c | ★★ Maria - with Norima | 12m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - with LFF | 10m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
|
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - with LFF | 10m, 2 | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
|
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星期三 6th 3月 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.
|
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6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Finger crack jamming with a bad finger - not a good idea!
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
So painful!
|
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5b 5a | ★ Fup - with Giggler | 23m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期二 5th 3月 2019 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
2 hangs, the first in the lower slab of course
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Totally messed up the upper crux.
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
|
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6a | ★ La Matate Chorrea - with Norima | 25m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice, but an awful and thin runout to the anchor.
|
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星期一 4th 3月 2019 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
5b 5a | ★ Comando pastillero - with LFF | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Forgot everything...
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Pretty close, but unluckily one silly foot error. Stupid 4th bolt!
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Slowly this is getting my nemesis, but just not enough fuel left. And a huge bee's nest next to the anchor - not clear if I should go back on it...
|
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星期天 3rd 3月 2019 - Puig St. Martí | ||||||
6a | ★ Atila - with Sandra † | 18m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
5+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - with LFF | 25m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | |||
4+ 4c | ★ Pedorretas - with LFF | 26m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
|