攀登 in Mallorca by Anderl

No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.

Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight

Mega super soft

Nice & technical, not that obvious.

Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.

Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...

Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void

Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.

Man, I got fat, weak, whatever

In sneakers

In sneakers

Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.

Not that easy versus the end.

Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...

And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!

Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.

Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat

An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.

Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben

Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal Aufwärmen & kalibrieren.

Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten

Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.

Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.

Much easier if you know what to do

Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.

Short cruxy section before the overhang

Checking out the moves

Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day

Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...

Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...

Until after the crux, but lockdown made me have sissy fingers and sissy feet, just too painful to go on. Otherwise a really nice long and homogeneous climb, stays interesting even in the less steep sections.

Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...

Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.

Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.

Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.

Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.

Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.

One hanger, missed a foothold in the beginning dusk. Should be no problem after optimising a bit the middle section - maybe next time. Incredibly high density of bolts, take all quickdraws you have!

Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?

If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish

Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.

A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!

Excellent short & super hard slab, very technical. Should be doable, but definetly would require some runs to find the best sequence. The team requests a trip to the next café instead...

Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.

Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.