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Begehungen in Mallorca von Anderl

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Zeige 1 - 100 von 260 Begehungen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität
Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
7a Las uñas de Dori - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin Sport 13m, 8
No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.

 
6b+ Scoop left - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin Sport 18m, 9
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight

 
Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà
Catedral
6a ~5a Sapporo - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 25m Sehr gut
Mega super soft

 
6a/a+ Al Capone - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 15m Sehr gut
Nice & technical, not that obvious.

 
6c+/7a La marmita - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport Klassiker
Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.

 
6c+/7a La marmita - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport Klassiker
Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...

 
Do 15. Feb 2024 - Valldemossa
Main Crag
7a Something — 2 Versuche - mit Arvin, Jarno Sport 12m Gut
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void

 
Di 13. Feb 2024 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
5b - c Via dels bombers - mit LFF, Jarno Sport 25m, 12 Sehr gut
6b+ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Jarno Sport 24m Sehr gut
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.

 
6a Pena negra - mit LFF, Jarno Sport 20m, 12
Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa
Duck
6b/b+ Princesa Mara - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF Sport
6b ORC - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF Sport 25m, 10 Gut
6c Vivan las jarras - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF Sport 17m, 6 Klassiker
Man, I got fat, weak, whatever

 
Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa
Radio 3
NN2 - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 15m
In sneakers

 
NN1 - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 15m
In sneakers

 
So 11. Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà
Catedral
5 Moretti - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 20m Sehr gut
6a Ladri di Arange - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 25m, 10
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.

 
5c Lucas - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 18m Sehr gut
Not that easy versus the end.

 
6a Tierra doy una / Sutra - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler Sport 30m, 13 Sehr gut
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...

 
Fr 24. Feb 2023 - Valldemossa
Main Crag
7a Something - mit LFF Sport 12m Gut
And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!

 
7a Something - mit LFF Sport 12m
Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.

 
Mi 22. Feb 2023 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
5c Jarribaras P1 - mit LFF
1 5c Sport
Sport 40m
Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat

 
6b Relaja la Raja P1 - mit LFF
1 6b Sport
Sport Klassiker
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.

 
6c+ Cachinochalgo - mit LFF Sport 15m, 13 Sehr gut
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben

 
6c+ Cachinochalgo - mit LFF Sport 15m, 13 Sehr gut
Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal Aufwärmen & kalibrieren.

 
Di 21. Feb 2023 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6b+ Las Margaritas - mit LFF, Giggler
1 5b 19 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch LFF
2 6b+ 25 Sport Vorstieg durch Anderl
3 6b+ 22 Sport Vorstieg durch Anderl
Sport 66m
Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten

 
Mo 20. Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà
Unknown
6c Unknown - mit LFF Sport
Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.

 
6a+ Unknown 6a+ - mit LFF Sport Klassiker
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.

 
So 19. Feb 2023 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6b+ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 24m
Much easier if you know what to do

 
5b Rompesuelos - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 9
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.

 
6b+ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 24m
Short cruxy section before the overhang

 
6a Pena negra - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 20m, 12
5c DJ's Club - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 30m, 12 Sehr gut
Sa 6. Nov 2021 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
7a 6c+ Cachinochalgo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 15m, 13 Sehr gut
Checking out the moves

 
7a Cachinochalgo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 15m, 13 Sehr gut
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day

 
6b Day of the Reflection - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 30m, 13 Sehr gut
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...

 
6a+ La Princesa del Pueblo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 27m, 10 Gut
5b 5b - c Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport 25m, 12 Sehr gut
Fr 5. Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu
5c Placa - mit Giggler Sport 22m, 6 Gut
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...

 
Mi 3. Nov 2021 - Caimari
Hairpin Wall
5 Right - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue Sport 22m Gut
6a+ Pocket - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue Sport 30m Sehr gut
Until after the crux, but lockdown made me have sissy fingers and sissy feet, just too painful to go on. Otherwise a really nice long and homogeneous climb, stays interesting even in the less steep sections.

 
5 Curving Groove - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue Sport 21m Durchschnitt
Di 2. Nov 2021 - Sa Font
6a+ 6a NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - mit Sandra †, Giggler Sport 12m, 5 Gut
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...

 
5c 5b - c Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - mit Sandra †, Giggler Sport 12m, 5 Durchschnitt
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.

 
So 31. Okt 2021 - Puig de Garrafa
To pa ti
6b The Lion Slayer - mit Jarno, Giggler, Yue Sport Sehr gut
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.

 
6a+ Skidmark - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport Gut
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.

 
6a Itchy feet - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue Sport Gut
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.

 
Fr 28. Feb 2020 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6b Enanismo emocional - mit LFF Sport 15m, 8 Gut
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.

 
7a Cachinochalgo - mit LFF Sport 15m, 13 Sehr gut
One hanger, missed a foothold in the beginning dusk. Should be no problem after optimising a bit the middle section - maybe next time. Incredibly high density of bolts, take all quickdraws you have!

 
6b+ Las bolas del chino - mit Sandra †, Jarno
1 6b+ 20m
Sport 20m, 16 Sehr gut
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?

 
6c+ Hippipunklperriklautico - mit Sandra † Sport 18m, 9 Sehr gut
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish

 
Do 27. Feb 2020 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
6c+ Hippipunklperriklautico - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 18m, 9 Sehr gut
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.

 
6a+ Corrich - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno Sport 25m, 11 Sehr gut
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!

 
Mi 26. Feb 2020 - Tazmania
6c Madame Déficit - mit Sandra †, LFF Sport Sehr gut
Excellent short & super hard slab, very technical. Should be doable, but definetly would require some runs to find the best sequence. The team requests a trip to the next café instead...

 
6a+ Lucas - mit Sandra †, LFF Sport Sehr gut
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.

 
5+ Kulunguele - mit Sandra †, LFF Sport Gut
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.

 
Di 25. Feb 2020 - Cala Bota
5c El vals del obero - mit Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler Sport 12m, 6 Gut
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!

 
5c Elmo Love - mit Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler Sport 11m Sehr gut
Too hot to climb seriously

 
Mo 24. Feb 2020 - Valldemossa
Main Crag
5c Dali - mit LFF, Sandra † Sport 13m Sehr gut
Quickdraw rescue

 
6c+ Sostre den burotet - mit LFF, Sandra † Sport 15m Mega-Klassiker
Stopped on the way home to have a quick sunset try. Great fun, but needs some more work to figure out a more efficient selection of jugs. Epic fight together with LFF to get down the quickdraws.

 
Mo 24. Feb 2020 - Es Torrent
6c Happy Starting - mit LFF, Sandra †, Jarno Sport 15m Sehr gut
Very nice athletic route, but the upper bolts are in pretty bad condition. Got super scared because I really didn't wanted to fall; finally reached an anchor which was too rusty for abseiling - continued to the other (good) one higher to the left...

 
6a+ Andritxoleta - mit LFF, Sandra †, Jarno Sport 15m Klassiker
Super nice tufa fun

 
So 23. Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda
6a+ Lucas forever - mit LFF Sport 20m, 5 Gut
Quickdraw rescue

 
6b+ Relaja el hojete - mit LFF Sport 25m, 9
Top rope service for LFF Still too wrecked from the fight before.

 
7a La puerta - mit Sandra † Sport 15m
Same procedure as every year, James. Felt strong, climbed well and failed seriously. Basically it goes, but with my sequence I just can't clip the 4th bolt - not because I'm out of the line, but because of barndoor troubles. Maybe there are some possibilities more to the right, but I give up now, finally removed this one from the list of projects.

 
5+ 5c Gorrinos.com - mit Sandra † Sport 20m, 9 Gut
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Salto
6a Chicharra loca - mit LFF Sport 16m, 7 Sehr gut
Good bye route in the evening sun.

 
4c Fluffy - mit LFF Sport 10m Gut
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Colmena
6b+ Ella ya no vive aqui - mit LFF Sport 18m Gut
Too hot, no motivation, time for some chilling around.

 
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Corral
4 Aprendizaje por tercios - mit LFF Sport 18m, 7 Klassiker
Nice & hard for the grade.

 
Fr 8. Mär 2019 - Cala Bota
3c Schnurzelpurzel - mit Sandra † Sport 10m, 5 Sehr gut
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...

 
7a Todo bene - mit LFF Sport 12m, 6 Gut
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!

 
6b Kalki - mit Giggler Sport 15m Sehr gut
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.

 
6a Touch the sky - mit LFF Sport 13m, 5 Klassiker
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!

 
5c Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - mit Giggler Sport 12m, 5 Gut
Do 7. Mär 2019 - Cala Bota
7a Todo bene - mit LFF Sport 12m, 6
7a Todo bene - mit LFF Sport 12m, 6
Almost, almost, just one hanger due to a not entirely nailed beta. And then it was getting dark, once again

 
6b Sobre el coral - mit LFF Sport 12m, 6 Sehr gut
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense

 
6b Sobre el coral - mit LFF Sport 12m, 6 Sehr gut
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.

 
5c Maria - mit Norima Sport 12m, 5 Klassiker
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.

 
6a+ Wonder Woman - mit LFF Sport 10m, 6 Klassiker
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it

 
5b+ Banita - mit LFF Sport 10m, 2 Mega-Klassiker
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?

 
Mi 6. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa
Duck
6c Vivan las jarras - mit Giggler Sport 17m, 6 Klassiker
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.

 
6c Vivan las jarras - mit Giggler Sport 17m, 6 Klassiker
Finger crack jamming with a bad finger - not a good idea!

 
6b ORC - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 10 Sehr gut
6b ORC - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 10 Sehr gut
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.

 
6b ORC - mit LFF, Giggler Sport 25m, 10 Sehr gut
So painful!

 
5b 5a Fup - mit Giggler Sport 23m, 8 Sehr gut
Di 5. Mär 2019 - Caimari
Comuna de Caimari
5c Pa Torrat - mit Jarno, Giggler Sport 23m, 10 Klassiker
No permission of the team to lead this beauty

 
6c Via morito - mit LFF Sport 22m, 12 Klassiker
2 hangs, the first in the lower slab of course

 
6c Via morito - mit LFF Sport 22m, 12 Klassiker
Totally messed up the upper crux.

 
6c Via morito - mit LFF Sport 22m, 12 Klassiker
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...

 
6a La Matate Chorrea - mit Norima Sport 25m, 7 Sehr gut
Nice, but an awful and thin runout to the anchor.

 
Mo 4. Mär 2019 - La Vall Verda
5b 5a Comando pastillero - mit LFF Sport 25m Sehr gut
7a La puerta - mit Sandra † Sport 15m Gut
Forgot everything...

 
7a La puerta - mit Sandra † Sport 15m Gut
Pretty close, but unluckily one silly foot error. Stupid 4th bolt!

 
7a La puerta - mit Sandra † Sport 15m Gut
Slowly this is getting my nemesis, but just not enough fuel left. And a huge bee's nest next to the anchor - not clear if I should go back on it...

 
So 3. Mär 2019 - Puig St. Martí
6a Atila - mit Sandra † Sport 18m, 6 Gut
5+ 5a - c Alzheimer - mit LFF Sport 25m, 8 Sehr gut
4+ 4c Pedorretas - mit LFF Sport 26m, 7 Gut
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.

 

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