Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Las uñas de Dori - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 13m, 8 | ||||
No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
|
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Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a | ★★ Sapporo - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mega super soft
|
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6a/a+ | ★★ Al Capone - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
|
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6c+/7a | ★★★ La marmita - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.
|
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6c+/7a | ★★★ La marmita - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...
|
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Do 15. Feb 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something — 2 Versuche - mit Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
|
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Di 13. Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - mit LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - mit LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | ||||
Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Princesa Mara - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | |||||
6b | ★★ ORC - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | ★ Gut | |||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Man, I got fat, weak, whatever
|
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Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2 - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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NN1 - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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So 11. Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 | ★★ Moretti - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
|
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5c | ★★ Lucas - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
|
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6a | ★★ Tierra doy una / Sutra - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
|
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Fr 24. Feb 2023 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something - mit LFF | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!
|
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7a | ★ Something - mit LFF | 12m | ||||
Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.
|
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Mi 22. Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c |
★★ Jarribaras P1
- mit
LFF
1
5c
| 40m | ||||
Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat
|
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6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- mit
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal Aufwärmen & kalibrieren.
|
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Di 21. Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Las Margaritas - mit LFF, Giggler | 66m | ||||
Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten
|
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Mo 20. Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6c | Unknown - mit LFF | |||||
Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Unknown 6a+ - mit LFF | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.
|
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So 19. Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
|
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - mit LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
|
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6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Short cruxy section before the overhang
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - mit LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | ||||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - mit LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 6. Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Checking out the moves
|
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
|
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
|
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6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ Gut | |||
5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 5. Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu | ||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - mit Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
|
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Mi 3. Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Hairpin Wall | ||||||
5 | ★ Right - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ Gut | |||
6a+ | ★★ Pocket - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Until after the crux, but lockdown made me have sissy fingers and sissy feet, just too painful to go on. Otherwise a really nice long and homogeneous climb, stays interesting even in the less steep sections.
|
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5 | ★ Curving Groove - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | Durchschnitt | |||
Di 2. Nov 2021 - Sa Font | ||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - mit Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
|
||||||
5c 5b - c | ★★ Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - mit Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | Durchschnitt | |||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
|
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So 31. Okt 2021 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
To pa ti | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Lion Slayer - mit Jarno, Giggler, Yue | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Skidmark - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Gut | ||||
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.
|
||||||
6a | ★ Itchy feet - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Gut | ||||
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.
|
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Fr 28. Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - mit LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ Gut | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
|
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
One hanger, missed a foothold in the beginning dusk. Should be no problem after optimising a bit the middle section - maybe next time. Incredibly high density of bolts, take all quickdraws you have!
|
||||||
6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- mit
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
|
||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - mit Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
|
||||||
Do 27. Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Corrich - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
|
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Mi 26. Feb 2020 - Tazmania | ||||||
6c | ★★ Madame Déficit - mit Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Excellent short & super hard slab, very technical. Should be doable, but definetly would require some runs to find the best sequence. The team requests a trip to the next café instead...
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas - mit Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.
|
||||||
5+ | ★★ Kulunguele - mit Sandra †, LFF | ★ Gut | ||||
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.
|
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Di 25. Feb 2020 - Cala Bota | ||||||
5c | ★ El vals del obero - mit Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
|
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - mit Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
|
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Mo 24. Feb 2020 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - mit LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Sostre den burotet - mit LFF, Sandra † | 15m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Stopped on the way home to have a quick sunset try. Great fun, but needs some more work to figure out a more efficient selection of jugs. Epic fight together with LFF to get down the quickdraws.
|
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Mo 24. Feb 2020 - Es Torrent | ||||||
6c | ★★ Happy Starting - mit LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very nice athletic route, but the upper bolts are in pretty bad condition. Got super scared because I really didn't wanted to fall; finally reached an anchor which was too rusty for abseiling - continued to the other (good) one higher to the left...
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Andritxoleta - mit LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super nice tufa fun
|
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So 23. Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - mit LFF | 20m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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6b+ | ★ Relaja el hojete - mit LFF | 25m, 9 | ||||
Top rope service for LFF Still too wrecked from the fight before.
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - mit Sandra † | 15m | ||||
Same procedure as every year, James. Felt strong, climbed well and failed seriously. Basically it goes, but with my sequence I just can't clip the 4th bolt - not because I'm out of the line, but because of barndoor troubles. Maybe there are some possibilities more to the right, but I give up now, finally removed this one from the list of projects.
|
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5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - mit Sandra † | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Do 5. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b | ★ Avlentu - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Have to correct myself: purely on the wall without arete goes, and solid 6b seems reasonable.
|
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6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Weather didn't hold, but overhanging enough to be dry Not that hard if you know the way. And not 6c+ for sure.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Project for tomorrow if the weather holds!
|
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6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mierda! Almost onsight, but got seduced by the good jug to the right at the end.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c 7a+ | El capitan Memo - mit Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
Popped out of the heelhook.
|
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6c 7a+ | El capitan Memo - mit Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
Got it! Used a bit the dihedral half a metre to the right in the easier upper part for security reasons (last two bolts are very rusty), but purely on the wall goes quite easily, too. What should I say? For me 6c max, quite reachy however.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6a 6b | ★ Avientu (Avlentu) - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Nice and very soft for 6b. Maybe defined without the arete? But that would be illogical (and very hard).
|
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6a+ | ★ Koko Beach - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A fight, short and intense. Found it quite stiff for the grade.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
5a 5 | ★ La Central - mit Sandra † | 14m | ||||
Very warm (up)
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c 7a+ | El capitan Memo - mit Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
6c | El capitan Memo - mit Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
2 really hard moves out of the tufa, easy upper half. Seems pretty soft to me for 7a+, being tall helps for sure.
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Mar | ||||||
6b | ★ Esclavo de Amor - mit Sandra † | 11m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Not harder than 'El Cielo Puede Esperar'.
|
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6a | ★★ El Cielo Puede Esperar - mit Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Reachy move out of the tufa, committing after. Not so easy.
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
6a | ★ Makina de discutir - mit Sandra † | 10m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
Pretty stiff start, upper part needs some gardening - got some blackberry thorns stuck in my nose
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - mit Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Don't Push the Red Button - mit Sandra †, Jarno | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Verano Fukishima - mit Sandra †, Jarno | 9m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | ★ El Paso Residual - mit Sandra † | 9m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
6c | ★ El Paso Residual - mit Sandra † | 9m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Solved with an over-the-head kneebar / heelhook, which turned the fierce crux almost into a no-hand
|
||||||
Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Mar | ||||||
6a | ★★ Mucho Jeta Legarreta - mit Sandra † | 11m | ||||
Lost the race against the incoming tide belayer not amused...
|
||||||
Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ El Repris de Rafita - mit Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A bit polished, but nice climb out of the cave
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - mit Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
What a cool place: nice beach, a bar, sunshine and lots of routes to do, what do you want more?
|
||||||
Fr 30. Aug 2019 - Marabio | ||||||
Los Bloques | ||||||
6b | El murin - mit Sandra † | 17m | Durchschnitt | |||
Only toprope due to rusty bolts. Too close to 'La fea' and not an own line.
|
||||||
5+ | ★★ La fea - mit Sandra † | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice and varied climbing.
|
||||||
5+ | La placa - mit Sandra † | 23m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Quite cruxy in the middle, upper half very easy.
|
||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - mit LFF | 16m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
|
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4c | ★ Fluffy - mit LFF | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Colmena | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ella ya no vive aqui - mit LFF | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Too hot, no motivation, time for some chilling around.
|
||||||
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - mit LFF | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
|
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Fr 8. Mär 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - mit Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
|
||||||
7a | ★★ Todo bene - mit LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Kalki - mit Giggler | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Touch the sky - mit LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
|
||||||
5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - mit Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Gut |