Wendenstöcke Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

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Table of contents

1. Wendenstöcke 64 routes in Crag

7 8 9 4 6 3 5 2 1

1 Gadmerfluh 2 Mähren 3 Pfaffenhut 4 Excalibur 5 Dom 6 Aureus 7 Reissend Nollen 8 Reissend Nollen Vorbau 9 Wendensattel

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

季节分布

总体而言 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.762241, 8.369430

描述

The Wendenstöcke form a 10km long chain in the Gadmertal valley, generally oriented towards SSE, on the west side of the Sustenpass. From Tällistock to Titlis there are various sectors with a total of 130 multi-pitch routes. The routes at Pfaffenhuet, Gross Wendenstock and Reissend Nollen form the heart of the area. This is the epicentre of alpine sport climbing in Switzerland. Although one usually climbs only in the lower part of these mountains, the routes are very popular because of their rock quality, their beauty and difficulty. The climbing is often steep and athletic, the rock often firm, optimally structured and handy.

The season at Wendestöcken extends roughly from July to October. Early in the year, meltwater strips from the up to 3000m high summit regions often disturb and as long as there is still snow on the bands further up, there is a considerable danger of falling rocks. In midsummer, from midday onwards (except on very stable days with low humidity), thermal, deep-base spring clouds often occur, enveloping the walls in the cold, ghostly turning fog, which is unpleasant during climbing. The best conditions are usually found in autumn, but only until the first snow falls.

The protection is worth mentioning: depending on the route it varies from good to rough, but almost everywhere it is tight and requires a courageous lead, there are no plaisir routes.

前往

The approaches now mostly show visible tracks and are not too tricky in good conditions. Nevertheless, they lead over long distances through steep cliffs, which don't allow any mistakes, fatal accidents have already occurred during the ascent. Whoever comes into a thunderstorm at the turns has a problem in several ways: in the upper wall areas enormous masses of water can accumulate, which pour out as huge torrents over the routes and entry areas, and they also carry the stones, which lie around in the upper wall areas so countlessly. And, of course, the way into the valley via the wet cliffs takes on a completely different dimension than it did in the morning, when the weather was friendly during the ascent.

行为准则

Talk to locals about the ethic of bolting and retro-bolting routes.

1.1. Gadmerfluh 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

所有 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.750486, 8.342378

描述

Koordinaten: 2 670100/ 1 178230, Höhe 1930 Meter,

前往

Ab Mettlenberg in 1h45min. Man benutzt die taxpflichtige Strasse Richtung Wendenalp und parkiert unterhalb des Mettlenbergs auf 1490m bei einer Strassenabzweigung. Fussweg zur Alp Vorsess, Bergweg zum Spreitbach. Weiter 600m diesen Weg folgen zu kleinen Alphütte unmittelbar vor dem Bündengraben

下撤信息

Dito

1.2. Mähren 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.756321, 8.359442

1.3. Pfaffenhut 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.760128, 8.371922

1.4. Excalibur 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.761241, 8.376076

1.5. Dom 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

总体而言 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.759648, 8.380083

1.6. Aureus 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

总体而言 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.760863, 8.384940

1.7. Reissend Nollen 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

总体而言 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.765140, 8.399536

1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 46.764556, 8.402653

1.9. Wendensattel 1 route in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 46.762697, 8.391226

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
6a			Spasspartout	运动攀岩 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
6b		★★★	Excalibur	运动攀岩 230m, 8, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Wendenvögel	运动攀岩 300m, 11, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Ar schöne grüenä Aare nah“	传统攀登 7		1.9. Wendensattel
6b+			Milchsuppe	运动攀岩 12		1.1. Gadmerfluh
			Aureus	运动攀岩 300m, 10, 10		1.6. Aureus
6c			Dragon	运动攀岩 280m, 7, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★★★	Sonnenkönig	运动攀岩 500m, 20, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Zonda	运动攀岩 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
6c+			Kooianisquazi	运动攀岩 230m, 8, 10		1.2. Mähren
			El condor pasa	运动攀岩 300m, 11, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Inuit	运动攀岩 450m, 18, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Passion	运动攀岩 300m, 10, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★	Stars away	运动攀岩 280m, 8, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Sternschnuppe	运动攀岩 420m, 19, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Voie du frére	运动攀岩 320m, 9, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Espérit	运动攀岩 160m, 3, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Affennase	运动攀岩 150m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a			Torwächter	运动攀岩 450m, 10, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Patent Ochsner	运动攀岩 420m, 8, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Lancelot	运动攀岩 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Querschläger	运动攀岩 300m, 8, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Trash	运动攀岩 2		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Nachtexpress	运动攀岩 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a/a+			Strada del sole	运动攀岩 300m, 7, 10		1.6. Aureus
7a+			Gory	运动攀岩 300m, 7, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Troja	运动攀岩 230m, 6, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Caminando	运动攀岩		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Sawiris	运动攀岩 280m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a+/b			Imago	运动攀岩 250m, 6, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Pain Killer	运动攀岩		1.7. Reissend Nollen
7b			Im Auge des Zyklopen	运动攀岩 550m, 20, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Indian Summer	运动攀岩 300m, 10, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Charia	运动攀岩 300m, 9, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Paco	运动攀岩 350m, 10, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Millenium	运动攀岩		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Zyland	运动攀岩 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7b A0			Squaw	运动攀岩 200m, 7, 10		1.2. Mähren
7b+			Transocean	运动攀岩 7		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★★★	Blaue Lagune	运动攀岩 250m, 9, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Niagara	运动攀岩 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Andorra	运动攀岩 350m, 11, 10		1.5. Dom
			Hakuna Matata	运动攀岩 8		1.5. Dom
			Legacy	运动攀岩 320m, 9, 10		1.5. Dom
			Das 11. Gebot	传统攀登 9		1.6. Aureus
			As de coeur	混合传统攀岩 450m, 12		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Batman	运动攀岩 300m, 6, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Tsunami	运动攀岩		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Rockmantic	运动攀岩 550m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
			Virus	运动攀岩 550m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7b+ A1			Ibicus	运动攀岩 320m, 10		1.5. Dom
7c			Letzter Mohikaner	运动攀岩 230m, 6, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Jednicka Nr. 1	运动攀岩 340m, 10, 10		1.5. Dom
			Cleopatra	运动攀岩 270m, 7, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Dingo	运动攀岩		1.7. Reissend Nollen
7c A1			Vreneli	运动攀岩 500m, 18, 10		1.2. Mähren
7c+			Elefantenohr	运动攀岩 320m, 10, 10		1.5. Dom
			Portami via	运动攀岩 300m, 8, 12		1.6. Aureus
8a			La lunga attesa	混合传统攀岩 270m, 8, 7		1.5. Dom
8a+			Coelophysis	运动攀岩 670m, 21, 12		1.2. Mähren
			La svizzera	运动攀岩 400m, 10, 10		1.2. Mähren
8b+			Zahir	运动攀岩 300m, 8, 12		1.5. Dom
8c			Gran Paradiso	运动攀岩 220m, 7, 14		1.5. Dom
			Zahir +	运动攀岩 12		1.5. Dom