Wendenstöcke Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Wendenstöcke 64 routes in Crag

7 8 9 4 6 3 5 2 1

1 Gadmerfluh 2 Mähren 3 Pfaffenhut 4 Excalibur 5 Dom 6 Aureus 7 Reissend Nollen 8 Reissend Nollen Vorbau 9 Wendensattel

Summary:

E

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Estacionalidad

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.762241, 8.369430

descripción

The Wendenstöcke form a 10km long chain in the Gadmertal valley, generally oriented towards SSE, on the west side of the Sustenpass. From Tällistock to Titlis there are various sectors with a total of 130 multi-pitch routes. The routes at Pfaffenhuet, Gross Wendenstock and Reissend Nollen form the heart of the area. This is the epicentre of alpine sport climbing in Switzerland. Although one usually climbs only in the lower part of these mountains, the routes are very popular because of their rock quality, their beauty and difficulty. The climbing is often steep and athletic, the rock often firm, optimally structured and handy.

The season at Wendestöcken extends roughly from July to October. Early in the year, meltwater strips from the up to 3000m high summit regions often disturb and as long as there is still snow on the bands further up, there is a considerable danger of falling rocks. In midsummer, from midday onwards (except on very stable days with low humidity), thermal, deep-base spring clouds often occur, enveloping the walls in the cold, ghostly turning fog, which is unpleasant during climbing. The best conditions are usually found in autumn, but only until the first snow falls.

The protection is worth mentioning: depending on the route it varies from good to rough, but almost everywhere it is tight and requires a courageous lead, there are no plaisir routes.

Acceso

The approaches now mostly show visible tracks and are not too tricky in good conditions. Nevertheless, they lead over long distances through steep cliffs, which don't allow any mistakes, fatal accidents have already occurred during the ascent. Whoever comes into a thunderstorm at the turns has a problem in several ways: in the upper wall areas enormous masses of water can accumulate, which pour out as huge torrents over the routes and entry areas, and they also carry the stones, which lie around in the upper wall areas so countlessly. And, of course, the way into the valley via the wet cliffs takes on a completely different dimension than it did in the morning, when the weather was friendly during the ascent.

Ética

Talk to locals about the ethic of bolting and retro-bolting routes.

1.1. Gadmerfluh 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.750486, 8.342378

descripción

Koordinaten: 2 670100/ 1 178230, Höhe 1930 Meter,

Acceso

Ab Mettlenberg in 1h45min. Man benutzt die taxpflichtige Strasse Richtung Wendenalp und parkiert unterhalb des Mettlenbergs auf 1490m bei einer Strassenabzweigung. Fussweg zur Alp Vorsess, Bergweg zum Spreitbach. Weiter 600m diesen Weg folgen zu kleinen Alphütte unmittelbar vor dem Bündengraben

Descenso

Dito

1.2. Mähren 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.756321, 8.359442

1.3. Pfaffenhut 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.760128, 8.371922

1.4. Excalibur 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.761241, 8.376076

1.5. Dom 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.759648, 8.380083

1.6. Aureus 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.760863, 8.384940

1.7. Reissend Nollen 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.765140, 8.399536

1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 46.764556, 8.402653

1.9. Wendensattel 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: 46.762697, 8.391226

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
6a			Spasspartout	Deportiva 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
6b		★★★	Excalibur	Deportiva 230m, 8, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Wendenvögel	Deportiva 300m, 11, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Ar schöne grüenä Aare nah“	Clásica 7		1.9. Wendensattel
6b+			Milchsuppe	Deportiva 12		1.1. Gadmerfluh
			Aureus	Deportiva 300m, 10, 10		1.6. Aureus
6c			Dragon	Deportiva 280m, 7, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★★★	Sonnenkönig	Deportiva 500m, 20, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Zonda	Deportiva 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
6c+			Kooianisquazi	Deportiva 230m, 8, 10		1.2. Mähren
			El condor pasa	Deportiva 300m, 11, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Inuit	Deportiva 450m, 18, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Passion	Deportiva 300m, 10, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★	Stars away	Deportiva 280m, 8, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Sternschnuppe	Deportiva 420m, 19, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Voie du frére	Deportiva 320m, 9, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Espérit	Deportiva 160m, 3, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Affennase	Deportiva 150m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a			Torwächter	Deportiva 450m, 10, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Patent Ochsner	Deportiva 420m, 8, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Lancelot	Deportiva 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Querschläger	Deportiva 300m, 8, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Trash	Deportiva 2		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Nachtexpress	Deportiva 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a/a+			Strada del sole	Deportiva 300m, 7, 10		1.6. Aureus
7a+			Gory	Deportiva 300m, 7, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Troja	Deportiva 230m, 6, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Caminando	Deportiva		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Sawiris	Deportiva 280m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a+/b			Imago	Deportiva 250m, 6, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Pain Killer	Deportiva		1.7. Reissend Nollen
7b			Im Auge des Zyklopen	Deportiva 550m, 20, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Indian Summer	Deportiva 300m, 10, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Charia	Deportiva 300m, 9, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Paco	Deportiva 350m, 10, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Millenium	Deportiva		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Zyland	Deportiva 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7b A0			Squaw	Deportiva 200m, 7, 10		1.2. Mähren
7b+			Transocean	Deportiva 7		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★★★	Blaue Lagune	Deportiva 250m, 9, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Niagara	Deportiva 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Andorra	Deportiva 350m, 11, 10		1.5. Dom
			Hakuna Matata	Deportiva 8		1.5. Dom
			Legacy	Deportiva 320m, 9, 10		1.5. Dom
			Das 11. Gebot	Clásica 9		1.6. Aureus
			As de coeur	Clásica mixta 450m, 12		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Batman	Deportiva 300m, 6, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Tsunami	Deportiva		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Rockmantic	Deportiva 550m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
			Virus	Deportiva 550m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7b+ A1			Ibicus	Deportiva 320m, 10		1.5. Dom
7c			Letzter Mohikaner	Deportiva 230m, 6, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Jednicka Nr. 1	Deportiva 340m, 10, 10		1.5. Dom
			Cleopatra	Deportiva 270m, 7, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Dingo	Deportiva		1.7. Reissend Nollen
7c A1			Vreneli	Deportiva 500m, 18, 10		1.2. Mähren
7c+			Elefantenohr	Deportiva 320m, 10, 10		1.5. Dom
			Portami via	Deportiva 300m, 8, 12		1.6. Aureus
8a			La lunga attesa	Clásica mixta 270m, 8, 7		1.5. Dom
8a+			Coelophysis	Deportiva 670m, 21, 12		1.2. Mähren
			La svizzera	Deportiva 400m, 10, 10		1.2. Mähren
8b+			Zahir	Deportiva 300m, 8, 12		1.5. Dom
8c			Gran Paradiso	Deportiva 220m, 7, 14		1.5. Dom
			Zahir +	Deportiva 12		1.5. Dom