North East Outcrops & Angus Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. North East Outcrops & Angus 804 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 Moray Firth Coast 2 Coast North of Aberdeen 3 Coast South of Aberdeen 4 Angus

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

季节分布

传统攀登, 运动攀岩 和 其它类型

Lat / Long: 57.191373, -2.417172

总结

All of the East coast of Scotland goodness.

描述

From north of Angus to Peterhead and the north coast towards Inverness.

1.1. Moray Firth Coast 279 routes in Area

4 1 2 5 6 3

1 Cummingston Cliffs 2 Logie Head 3 Mull Cleave 4 Covesea 5 Rosehearty Crag 6 Mohr Head

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.683570, -2.785302

1.1.1. Cummingston Cliffs 141 routes in Cliff

1 5 10 2 7 8 6 9 3 4

1 Orange Wall Area 2 Gutbuster Bay Area 3 Prophet Walls 4 Tapered Wall 5 The Stack 6 Doubt Wall 7 Cornflake Walls 8 Arch Wall 9 Sunshine Wall 10 Sentinel Stack

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703949, -3.460951

描述

North facing sea cliff on good sandstone. Toilets available at the car park. Very short walk in (less than 2 mins).

前往

Park at the Cummingston playground, off the road to the left if travelling from Burghead towards Hopeman. Walk (or take the children's slide) down to the paved path, and proceed either straight down to the beach then left, or left along the path for approximately 100 metres until the embankment on your right opens out and you are able to descend to the base of the cliffs. NB - the whole area is tidal.

下撤信息

Stakes at the top of popular climbs to ab off of. Rigging protection to belay up a second can be challenging.

1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.704097, -3.457360

描述

Eastern section of the cliff, directly below the car park. To the immediate left as you walk onto the beach area.

前往

From the car park, descend the slide (or walk down next to it) then proceed across the path (tarmac, runs from left to right as you stand at the bottom of the slide) and down towards the beach area. Orange Wall is on your left, with a large old metal pipe running vertically down it.

下撤信息

Descend by the obvious walking path.

1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703879, -3.458263

描述

UPDATE 6/7/2017 - the descent path has disappeared in gorse thickets, and the top out of Middle Muddle Direct is now a slope of gorse bushes, making for an excruciating top out. Just to the west (right as you look at Orange Wall), there is a tidal bay linked to Orange Wall by a cave. The climbing to the right and left of the cave is average to outright naff (past Sea Witch to the right, there are a number of climbs not listed here. The rock is substandard and very brittle). The back of the Cave is very entertaining!

前往

Through a large cave situated at the western end of Orange Wall Area.

下撤信息

Via the obvious cliff top path through gorse. Wear trousers. UPDATE 6/7/2017 - the cliff top path has been fully overgrown by gorse and brambles, and the anchors are in need of replacement to facilitate safe belaying and rappelling.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Beastie's Wall At the left side of the left wall as you look at it is a line of hollow flakes. Climb up them to the top, veering left to avoid a grassy section by taking a vertical crack.	HS 4a	传统攀登 10m
2		The Beast Follow the thin crack next to a flake, straight up through the roof to the finish. Very brittle rock.	E2 5b	传统攀登 10m
3		Middle Muddle Groove Climb the easy flakes, traversing right to a depression in the rock. Once reached, progress up the obvious groove to the top.	D	传统攀登 10m
4		Middle Muddle Direct Start a few paces right of the flakes of MM Groove, at a crack that runs through the bulge above onto a ledge. Follow the obvious crack to the top.	VS 5a	传统攀登 10m
5		Jugular Wall The steep wall to the right of MM Direct. About half way up there's a large jug to look forward to, before working through the last few ledges and up the final section of steep wall.	HS 4b	传统攀登 10m
6		Mud, Sweat and Tears Straight up the chimney at the back to a finish past a roof.	HS	传统攀登 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★★ Hernia Corner The bulging crack and corner on the left hand side of the back wall. Word on the street is the tricky start is often aided, dropping the grade to 5a.	E2 6a	传统攀登 15m
8		★★ Anal Stretch The route starts a couple of feet to the right of Hernia Corner. Tough reachy moves throughout the wall and roof make for an exciting climb. Take pro of an equivalent size to a WC hex 5 and a Rock 5 for the roof section, which finishes with a long reach right to a spike. Finish up the arete bearing right.	E6 6b	传统攀登 15m
9		★ Legbuster Runout in the upper section - ground-fall potential. To the right of a buttress is a pair of cracks. Climb the left one until reaching the bay, whereupon you trend leftwards up a thin and fingery wall to the finish.	E2 5c	传统攀登 20m
10		★★ Gutbuster Pumpy moves up the right-hand crack of the pair to the bay. Trend out rightwards to a mantle-shelf finish. Gobbles up cams like sweets in the lower sections.	E2 5c	传统攀登 20m
11		★★ Kneewrecker Chimney The chimney to the right of the pair of vertical cracks that make up the previous two routes. Watch out for the tight chockstone (crux) on your way up.	VS 4c	传统攀登 20m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
12		Sea Witch Often needs a good clean prior to climbing. Left of an overhanging crack on the right-hand side of the cave, up a 'flake-nose' and through the brittle wall above. Very poor pro throughout on less than average quality rock.	E3 5b	传统攀登 12m
13		Sandy Volestrangler The overhung crack to the right of Sea Witch	E3 6b	传统攀登 12m

1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703596, -3.459986

描述

Non tidal - reached at any time from the beach.

前往

Walk down the tarmac path (signed towards Burghead) for approximately 100 metres, until you reach an opening in the embankment on your right. Descend here and travel right (East) towards the large rock face.

下撤信息

Along the obvious cliff top path.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ The Gripper The corner at the left of the overhung bay to the ledge above, finishing through the tricky roof.	HVS 5b	传统攀登 20m
2		★★ Surf Nazis Must Die Right of The Gripper. Climb the overhung wall straight up to the small overhang, then power through to the left before working right towards the top. Bring pro to the equivalent of a Friend 0 and a Friend 3.	E5 6b	传统攀登 15m
3		★★ Aesthetic Ape Climb the bulging corner to the right of Surf Nazis, following it roughly up to a break via a pocket. Pull through onto a block, then finish up to the right.	E4 6a	传统攀登 20m
4		★ Bat Attack Lethal ground-fall potential. Climb the edge of the incut recess right of Aesthetic Ape and left of the features of Orange Ape. Use a wobbly horizontal spike to reach a thin crack which leads to the finish.	E5 6a	传统攀登 15m
5		★ Orange Ape Follow the undercut corner at the back left of the bay.	E2 5c	传统攀登 20m
6		★★ Statutory Ape Follow the right edge of the large flake feature approximately 5 paces left of Bat's Wall.Make the ledge above, then reach up to a pinch at the right end of a feature. Levitate to a series of slopers, then follow to the finish above.	E6 6c	传统攀登 15m
7		★★★ Bat's Wall Crack line at the back right of the wall. Start direct, or up the shelf as an easier option.	E4 6a	传统攀登 15m
8		★★★ Monkey Mafia Often damp. Right of Bat's Wall, work your way up the gradually leftward migrating crack line from the depths of the cave. Once you achieve the sloping rest, follow the vertical crack to the roof, the work left on upsettingly poor undercut holds to the groove and the finish.	E4 6a	传统攀登 15m
9		★ Noddy Machine The overhung shallow groove line to a ledge with a large flake, traveling up left and through the roof section on jugs to a rightward arete and the finish.	E2 5b	传统攀登 15m
10		Jaded Arete The arete to the right of Noddy Machine. Climb it.	E2 5c	传统攀登 15m
11		Triangular Groove The vaguely ovoid shaped groove with a mini roof at the top, just right of Noddy Machine. The left side of the groove is the arete for Jaded Arete. Finish right as per Border Crossing.	HVS 5a	传统攀登 20m
12		Border Crossing The shallow groove to the right of Triangular Groove. Follow the groove to the flake on the right wall, then head directly up to the finish via a vertical crack.	HS 4b	传统攀登 20m
13		Borderline The big dihedral right of the groove. Bring a brush.	VS 4c	传统攀登 15m
14		★ Palmist Just to the right of Borderline. Climb directly to a jug, employ yoga/contortion/dislocation to stand up in said jug, then straight up the vertical crack to a small ledge and the top.	E4 6b	传统攀登 15m
15		★★ The Prophet The right hand side of the arete to the right of Palmist. Confusingly, start on a tiny step on the lower left side of the arete. Once you reach the left facing corner take a deep breath, then tackle the roof to easier going and the finish.	E2 5c	传统攀登 15m
16		★ Africa To the right of The Prophet. Climb the front face of the bulge towards the feature above that supposedly looks like a map of Africa. Place gear out left before brazenly climbing the sparsely protected face.	E4 6a	传统攀登 15m
17		★ I-Ching Climb the next arete to the right pretty much any which way you can. Get inventive with your pro, or it can get alarmingly run out.	E3 5c	传统攀登 20m
18		★★ Left The left-most corner of the big buttress.	VS 5a	传统攀登 20m
19		★★ Centre Up Left to a flake, then out right and head directly up the centre.	VS 4b	传统攀登 20m
20		★★ Right As the name implies, the right corner of the big buttress.	HVS 5a	传统攀登 15m
21		Yorkshire Grip The arete between Centre and Right. Eliminate - keep your eyes front and centre.	E2 6a	传统攀登 15m
22		★ Spare Rib Directly up the rib to the right of Right. No pro before the crux at half height.	HVS 4b	传统攀登 15m
23		Yoohah To the right of Right's corner, the first groove.	VS 5a	传统攀登 10m
24		Bing-Bong The second groove to the right of Right's corner, passing the obvious and awkward bulge to an equally awkward top out on slick grass.	S	传统攀登 8m
25		Gnib-Gnob At the back of a little bay to the right of Bing-Bong, in the corner where the wall shifts direction. Climb the corner.	HS	传统攀登 8m
26		Pigmy Shrew The clear vertical crack line, right of the corner of Gnib-Gnob.	E1 5c	传统攀登 6m
27		Bank Vole The next decent looking crack, a few feet to the right of Pigmy Shrew.	VS 5a	传统攀登 6m
28		The Weem The corner and slot away to the right of Bank Vole.	VD	传统攀登 10m
29		The Wobble Right of The Weem, you will find a shallow groove that faces left. Go up it.	VD	传统攀登 10m
30		Thud Like The Wobble, but to it's right and marginally more difficult.	HVS 5b	传统攀登 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
31		★★★ Bay Watch An 80m traverse taking in all of the sights, starting from near The Gripper and finishing on the grass near Thud. If in doubt, look for chalk off-piste from the main routes. Taxing in duration if not in difficulty. Little red swim suit optional.	6B	攀石

1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703598, -3.461682

描述

Non tidal - Loose rock apart from the bottom bay area containing The Nest (E2 6a).

前往

From the slide, follow the tarmac track towards Burghead for 100m, then descend a grassy slope in a break in the embankment on the right hand side of the path. Prophet Wall is to your right, and Tapered Wall is to your left as you look out to sea.

下撤信息

Well trodden path back to the grassy break in the embankment, occasionally heavy with gorse. Wear trousers.

1.1.1.5. The Stack 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703850, -3.462110

描述

Partially tidal. The largest of the stacks, visible slightly to the left as you descent from the path between Prophet and Tapered Wall. Exciting climbing in a beautiful location.

前往

As for Tapered Wall. The obvious large sea stack directly in front of Doubt Wall.

下撤信息

By abseil, or via Back Passage (Moderate) at low tide.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Captain Birdseye The left hand corner facing the land. Climb up the face, over the bulge then finish up an obvious groove.	E2 5b	传统攀登 12m
2		Fingers Wall Begin right of Captain Birdseye, aiming initially for a small square ledge. Traverse right to a set of slightly angled cracks, then work up them to top out.	E3 5b	传统攀登 12m
3		★ Flying Buttress, Left Side Begin at the right hand side of the slightly sloping shelf. Follow the corner to a ledge, then transfer to the face and finish directly.	VD	传统攀登 10m
4		Flying Buttress, Right Side Looking at Flying Buttress, use the same crack but follow the right hand side. Finish up the face as FB Left. No pro for the first three quarters of the route except very large cams in the crack. Easier to just solo it than try to place gear, although the right hand side wall's rock is crumbly	D	传统攀登 12m
5		★ Flying Groove Past Flying Buttress to the right is a large clear groove. Climb it.	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		★★ The Prow Around the East side of the The Stack lies a bulging prow. Climb up then left over the lip, finishing directly up the face. Bring a range of large cams for the upper section where frequent but shallow placements abound.	E5 6a	传统攀登 12m
7		Cutty Sark To the right of The Prow, between it and a recessed corner. Starts just to the left of the corner, and gradually trends to the left onto the protruding prow. From there finish directly. Tenuous top-out.	S	传统攀登 12m
8		East Side Story Climb the wall to the left of Back Passage, trending right underneath the ledge covered in grass (and occasionally seagulls) to an easy finish.	VD	传统攀登 12m
9		Back Passage The recessed corner full of deep cracks. An easy climb for all the family, and doubles as a descent route from the top of The Stack.	M	传统攀登 12m
10		Dirty Old Man To the right of Back Passage, using the often vegetated cracks. Easy finish.	VD	传统攀登 12m
11		★ Sunset Song Climb the curved groove to the right of Dirty Old Man, finishing over a bulge.	HS 4b	传统攀登 12m
12		Footloose Start at the far right of the North facing wall. Once you get to about half height move over to the left and gain a ledge, then finish to the left over an exciting bulge.	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
13		Blocky Start right of Footloose, following a natural line to the right end of a ledge to finish up the corner.	VD	传统攀登 12m
14		★ Butcher's Broom Follows clean cracks up the left side edge of the West facing wall to a bulging finish.	VS 4b	传统攀登 12m
15		Shadow Flake To the right of Butcher's broom. Climb directly to the small flake, then make a long move before finishing right.	HVS 5a	传统攀登 10m
16		Coach Bolt Crack The obvious left crack, to the right of Shadow Flake.	VS 4c	传统攀登 10m
17		Huggy Bear The right hand crack of the two, occasionally reaching for the arete when the going gets sparse.	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
18		★ Girdle traverse Clockwise around the block. High tide adds spice, and occasionally soggy ankles.	5b	横移

1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703693, -3.462128

描述

Non tidal - Left of Tapered Wall. The steep wall opposite the largest stack. Finishes at the opening to the tunnel.

前往

As for Tapered Wall.

下撤信息

As for Tapered Wall.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Doubtless Wall	S	传统攀登 10m
2		The Artful Dodger	HVS 5a	传统攀登 12m
3		★★ Diedre of Doubt	HVS 5a	传统攀登 12m
4		★★ Diedre of Double Doubt	E2 5b	传统攀登 12m
5		★★ Doubting Thomas	E2 5b	传统攀登 12m
6		Staircase Crack	S	传统攀登 12m
7		Green Crack	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		Lumside Crack	S	传统攀登 12m
9		The Lum	VD	传统攀登 12m
10		Cascade	VS 5a	传统攀登 12m

1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703783, -3.462434

描述

Tidal. Right of the arete that becomes blocked off at high tide, there are a range of featured walls with myriad grooves and pock marks, terminating in a rounded undercut section to the left of the next visible cave entrance.

前往

West of Doubt Wall, follow the natural curve of the cliff.

下撤信息

Clear path along the cliff edge back towards the tarmac path.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Snotty Nose	D	传统攀登 12m
2		Pegless Wall	HVS 4c	传统攀登 12m
3		★ Old Peg Groove	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
4		★★ Cornflake Wall	M	传统攀登 12m
5		Shredded Wheat	VD	传统攀登 12m
6		★ Rice Crispie Wall	D	传统攀登 12m
7		The Groove	D	传统攀登 12m
8		★ Bombproof	S	传统攀登 12m
9		Blockproof	S	传统攀登 12m
10		★ Blockbuster	VD	传统攀登 12m
11		★ Doddle Diedre	S	传统攀登 12m
12		★★ Stegosaurus	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
13		★ Gibbon	HVS 5c	传统攀登 12m
14		★★ Trapeze	VS 5b	传统攀登 12m
15		Gorilla	E1 5c	传统攀登 12m
16		★★ Central Face Low Level Traverse	5C	攀石

1.1.1.8. Arch Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703781, -3.462763

描述

After Cornflake Wall's undercut ending, continue west past the cave entrance. Between this cave entrance and the next are located two faces - once faces out to sea, the other is a collapsed cave.

前往

Continue west along the cliff base towards Burghead from Cornflake Walls.

下撤信息

As for Cornflake Walls.

1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.703638, -3.463135

描述

Non tidal. This section of the cliff ends in a west facing wall that gradually tapers above a grassy embankment.

前往

Continue west from Sunshine Wall.

下撤信息

As for Sunshine Wall.

1.1.1.10. Sentinel Stack 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

传统攀登 和 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.703840, -3.464592

描述

The second of three stacks to the West of The Stack, identifiable by a tunnel running through it's centre.

前往

Pass Sunshine Wall from above on the path or below on the beach whilst headed west towards Burghead - the Maltings can be seen (and often scented) from here, then proceed across the small beach (towards the sea) to the protruding stack which is the Sentinel.

下撤信息

Abseil, or proceed down Ramp Route (Severe).

1.1.2. Logie Head 81 routes in Crag

4 5 3 2 7 1 6

1 Embankment 1 & 2 2 The Tidal Zone 3 Gully Wall 4 Star Zone 5 West Face 6 Path Wall 7 The Pinnacle

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700368, -2.792708

描述

Peninsula just east of Cullen. East facing and very fast drying. Has a lovely carpet of grass at the base of the non-tidal sectors.

前往

Park by the Cullen caravan park (57.693679, -2.814896), walk east past Nelson's Seat and down to the coast. Follow the coastal path under the cliff to reach the dyke in the distance.

1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700064, -2.792989

描述

The first two sectors on the eastward side of the peninsula.

前往

Down the concrete then stone steps

Non-tidal.

下撤信息

Easy walk down the back or via the rake.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Mousehole	S 4b	传统攀登 5m
2		Sea Mouse	HS 4b	传统攀登 6m
3		★★ Bladder Wrack	S 4b	传统攀登 10m
4		★★ Sea Urchin	HS 4b	传统攀登 10m
5		★ Sea Link	VD	传统攀登 10m
6		Eliminate Wall Climbs the wall between Sea Urchin and Poacher	E1 5c	传统攀登 10m
7		★★ Poacher	VS 4b	传统攀登 10m
8		Spread the Donkey	VS 4c	传统攀登 10m
9		★★★ Cullenary Delight	VS 5a	传统攀登 10m
10		Easy Over	E1 5b	传统攀登 10m
11		★★ Sunny Side Up	HVS 5a	传统攀登 10m
12		★ Sunny Side Direct	E1 5c	传统攀登 10m
13		Dennis Follow the obvious diagonal fault from right to left, keeping feet in the fault-line all the way, finishing past Mousehole.	VS 4c	传统攀登
14		The Last Drop Eliminate between 'Sunnyside Direct' and 'Fisherman's Tail'.	E1 5b	传统攀登 10m
15		Fisherman's Tail	HS	传统攀登 10m
16		★ Sandy Crack	E1 5b	传统攀登 8m
17		★★ No Hands Crack	E1 5b	传统攀登 8m
18		★ Doc's Crack	HVS 5b	传统攀登 6m
19		★★ The Central Belt	E1 5b	传统攀登 30m
20		Narrow Chimney	VD	传统攀登 8m
21		That Is The Question	HVS 5a	传统攀登 8m
22		On the Beach	HVS 5a	传统攀登 10m
23		★ Dave's Dilemma	E1 5b	传统攀登 10m
24		★★★ Holy Ground	E2 5c	传统攀登 12m
25		Cow's Crack	HVS 4c	传统攀登 12m

1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700278, -2.792618

描述

Past Embankment 2 to the right, where the sea is.

隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide 隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Friend	S 4b	传统攀登 5m
2		Foe	E1 5b	传统攀登 6m
3		Arch Enemy	HVS 5a	传统攀登 8m
4		The Clan	D	传统攀登 12m
5		★ Cullen Chimney	S	传统攀登 12m
6		Bouillabaisse	HVS 5a	传统攀登 12m
7		★★ Cullen Crack	VS 4b	传统攀登 12m
8		Snap Happy	E1 5a	传统攀登 15m
9		The Skunk	VD	传统攀登 12m
10		★ Fat Chick	HVS 5a	传统攀登 15m
11		Capekyle	HVS 5a	传统攀登 15m
12		The Skink	S	传统攀登 12m
13		Findlater Rib	VD	传统攀登 12m

1.1.2.3. Gully Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700511, -2.792293

描述

The gully at the seaward end of the Head.

前往

Walk along the top of the Head until you see the obvious gully in front of you near the end.

1.1.2.4. Star Zone 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700726, -2.792007

描述

Past the gully of Gully Wall to it's left from above. Very very fast to dry and some of the most solid rock at the Head.

前往

At high tide as for Gully Wall, at low tide just walk around the Head until you get to a rock platform below the climbs (submerged at high tide).

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Star Struck	HVS 5b	传统攀登 12m
2		★ Anti-Matter	HS	传统攀登 12m
3		★ The White Dwarf	VS 4c	传统攀登 12m
4		Brittle Star	HS	传统攀登 12m
5		★ Black Hole	D	传统攀登 15m
6		★ Moray Eel	VS 4c	传统攀登 10m
7		★★★ Rising Star	HVS 5b	传统攀登 10m
8		Western Star	E2 5c	传统攀登 10m
9		★★★ Fallen Star	VS 4c	传统攀登 10m
10		★★ Fading Star	HVS 5a	传统攀登 10m
11		★ Dark Star	E1 5b	传统攀登 10m
12		★ Southern Cross	E2 5b	传统攀登 12m
13		★ Northern logic	HVS 5a	传统攀登 10m

1.1.2.5. West Face 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700594, -2.792378

描述

The westward face of the Head.

前往

As for Star Zone or approach along the beach from the west at low tide.

1.1.2.6. Path Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

传统攀登 和 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.699715, -2.793327

描述

On the mainland, the rock overlooking the concrete steps of the approach path.

1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.700137, -2.793964

描述

The large pinnacle of rock just to the west of Logie Head, separated from it by about ten meters of water.

前往

Just turn left off of the path from Cullen about 15 meters before you would reach the Head, and walk to the pinnacle of rock in front of you.

1.1.3. Mull Cleave 9 routes in Cliff

1 2

1 West face 2 The Landward Walls

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.672946, -2.428947

描述

A big stack of rock poking out into the sea.

前往

From Mill of Melrose walk north then west around the fields towards the sea. The rock is visible from the cliff edge. Bring rap gear.

1.1.3.1. West face 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.673604, -2.429271

1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.672504, -2.428787

1.1.4. Covesea 48 routes in Cliff

3 1 2

1 Primrose Bay 2 Honeycomb Wall 3 Boulders Bay

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.717933, -3.391606

描述

North facing sea cliffs on variable sandstone

前往

Approaching from Lossiemouth on the B9040, pull in at the tarmac entrance to a gated path on the right, approximately 200 metres after some houses on the same side. The turn off is at the beginning of a small forest, and has footpath signs but at the time of writing no road signage.

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1.1.4.1. Primrose Bay 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.713391, -3.413577

描述

A very picturesque little bay, accessible on foot from Hopeman by heading eastwards down the path along the beach approximately 600m. Gets busy at the weekends with picnickers.

前往

Along the beach east from Hopeman, or the path parallel to the beach. Passes the golf course when you're close.

下撤信息

The routes on the western side have (occasionally well hidden) stakes at the top.

1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.713110, -3.411528

描述

The furthest west wall, to the left of the coast guard hut as you approach along the track. West facing, not really affected by the tides - as such, often needs a shuftie around with a brush before climbing as it gets very sandy.

1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.713613, -3.410413

描述

Not tidal, N and NW facing. Generally solid stone throughout.

前往

Down the path from the lookout station, then head east towards Lossiemouth for roughly 50 metres until you find a squarish boulder with a downward facing chimney on the left. Descend the chimney (fixed ropes), then head towards Lossiemouth again for the main bulk of the routes. The first two routes are to the west.

1.1.4.4. Stack Bay 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

描述

The bay fills up at high tide.

1.1.4.5. Stone Steps Area 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

描述

North facing.

前往

A small bay, accessible by steps from above at all tides.

1.1.4.6. Beach Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

描述

East facing vertical wall. The bay contains Gow's Castle on the Eastern side as a point of reference.

前往

The Eastern-most area of Covesea, accessible from above or along the beach at low tide.

1.1.5. Rosehearty Crag 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.5.1. Quarryhead - Car Park Island 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.2. Quarryhead - Car Park Crag 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.3. Quarryhead - Moon Wall 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.4. Murcurry - North Wall 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.5. Murcurry - South Wall 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.6. Murcurry - Dead Sheep Zawn 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.7. The Sea-Cliffs - East Buttress 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.8. The Sea-Cliffs - Middle Crag 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.9. The Sea-Cliffs - West Wall 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.10. The Sea-Cliffs - West Inside Buttress 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.11. The Sea-Cliffs - Backside Wall 0 routes in Sector

1.1.6. Mohr Head 0 routes in Cliff

描述

Mohr Head is a cliff on the west of Gardenstown Beach Bay. A place with historical interest since it holds a Commonwealth graveyard. The climbable areas are big granitic-metamorphic boulders that landslide from the top of the cliff due to extreme weather and conditions for thousands of years. It's an undeveloped remote area with the potential to develop some lines.

Boulders can be found at the top of the cliff and in the shore. The ones on the shore(still in development) can only be accessed with low tide and it can be a dangerous place without tide knowledge. The ones at the top of the cliff can always be accessed using a steep path but they are greatly exposed and you need to be aware of falling zones to avoid rolling down the cliff, certain movements are considered not falling zones, and the place is not recommended for kids.

The rock is mostly solid, only in some small areas(cliff side of the Top Boulders)the rock is loose and caution is needed.

The sense of cliff exposure paired with the great views of the bay and the ocean makes the whole bouldering experience magig during dawn or sunset.

前往

The boulders at the shore can be accessed with low tide through Gardenstown beach. The boulders at the top of the cliff can be accessed through a steep path that starts after St. Johns Church Kirkyard

1.2. Coast North of Aberdeen 27 routes in Area

1 3 2

1 Meackie Point 2 Fulmar Wall 3 Meikle Partans

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 57.432113, -1.942352

总结

Sea cliffs offering a wide range of conditions, rock formations, lengths and styles.

描述

Mostly trad venues tidal and non-tidal options, and some decent sport spots.

1.2.1. Meackie Point 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.456002, -1.789759

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ The Collector	E1 5b	传统攀登 15m
2		Flurry Bold start.	E1 5b	传统攀登 15m
3		★★ Impending Doom	E2 5b	传统攀登 20m
4		★★ Scurry	HVS 5a	传统攀登
5		★ The Water Margin	E1 5b	传统攀登 12m
6		★★ Trial of Tears Often wet at the top.	E3 6a	传统攀登 15m
7		★★★ The Killing Moon	E1 5b	传统攀登 15m
8		★ Legend	E2 5c	传统攀登 15m
9		The Changeling	E4 6a	传统攀登 15m

1.2.2. Fulmar Wall 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.421838, -1.825823

1.2.3. Meikle Partans 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.422658, -1.824513

描述

Lovely sea cliff on solid granite. No tidal issues, and easy walk down.

Climbs described right-to-left.

1.3. Coast South of Aberdeen 173 routes in Area