Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
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星期二 23rd 10月 2018 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
20 | ★★ Big Green Maggot Riddon Tripe Farm | 23m | ★★ 很好 | |||
21 | ★ Psychobabble Variant | 23m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
21 | ★ Only the Best Boys | 21m, 3 | 一般 | |||
22 | ★★ Joy Boy | 21m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
21 | ★★ The Better the Boy the More the Joy | 21m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
23 | ★ Bathos Bauble Boys | 21m | ★ 好 | |||
fell off this all afternoon!
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25 | ★★ Top of the Food Chain | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
21 | ★★ Peeni and Suranius | 23m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★ The Greenhouse Effect | 22m | 一般 | |||
19 | ★ Big Pink Custard Pig Farm | 19m | ★ 好 | |||
20 | ★★ Suspicion | 23m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
25 | ★ Avalon | 22m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
second shot
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13 | ★ Holiday | 22m | ★ 好 | |||
22 | Lemon Seeds | 18m, 3 | 一般 | |||
22 | ★★ Too Much Fun | 23m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
25 | ★ Autoerotic Fatalities | 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
22 | ★ Yesterday's Gone | 14m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
23 | ★ He Who Snoozes Loses | 17m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
11 | ★ Happy Wanderer | 18m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
23 | ★★ Two Hands are Better Than One | 20m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
21 | ★★ Cardiovascular Overload | 8m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
17 | ★ Eye of the Tiger | 20m | 一般 | |||
21 | ★ Slippery When Wet | 19m | ★ 好 | |||
19 | ★★ Simple Pleasures | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
19 | ★ Simple Pleasures Variant Start | 18m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
25 | ★★ IYFG | 16m | ★ 好 | |||
22 | ★★★ Shadow Of A Doubt | 18m | ||||
19 | ★ Unidentified Flying Organisms | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
22 | Post-Larval Mutants | 18m | 一般 | |||
20 | ★★ Wimps in the Gym | 16m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
22 | ★★ Tunnel Vision | 7m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
23 | ★★★ A Separate Reality | 20m, 2 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
20 | ★★ Fist Full of Ants | 20m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
23 | ★★ Twister and Beyond | 13m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
21 | ★ Twister | 6m | ★ 好 | |||
23 | ★★ Rude Awakening (Rude Awakenings) | 5m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期天 25th 12月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Free Will - with Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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星期三 16th 11月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden | 16m | 一般 | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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星期天 13th 11月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ 好 | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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星期五 11th 11月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - with becca saurus | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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星期一 15th 8月 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Dynamite | 18m | ★★ 很好 | |||
The climbing is very nice, but there is very little gear, and the rock is not great where the gear is. A shame it's not bolted as it would be enjoyed by many.. if it was 27 it'd be bolted, but it's not cause it's 17.
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18 | Last Picture Show | 22m | 一般 | |||
The actual corner I found quite interesting and not too hard as I could bridge to the rib on the right wall, but the start (Condor) is not that great and Wendy traversed off to the chains above Mechanical Prune as there was a death block on the ledge...
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16 | ★ Moonlighter | 15m | ||||
22 | ★ Slippin' Away | 13m | ★ 好 | |||
The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.
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23 | ★ Cracks in the Pavement | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
I really enjoyed this. Pretty tenuous in places. May be a safe lead these days with lots of micro cams, though I think you'd be on RPs at the start.
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17 | ★ King Shits and Dead Shits | 20m | 一般 | |||
Decent alt start to LLL
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星期一 15th 8月 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up | 22m | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Take care and small wires on the start
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17 | ★★ Neon Philharmonic | 35m | 一般 | |||
God this is desperate.
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21 | ★★ The Anti-From | 17m | ★ 好 | |||
24 | Serenade for Strings | 35m | 一般 | |||
19 | ★★ Drop Out | 24m | ★ 好 | |||
Good but has a substantial loose bit
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16 | ★★ Drop-out Direct Finish | 7m | ★ 好 | |||
15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | 一般 | |||
Insecure feeling, not that fun
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19 | Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums | 20m | 不值一提 | |||
17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
20 | ★★ Catharsis | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
This is better than it looks! The top offwith is great, I used stacked handjams which worked well.
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17 | ★ Pixel Princess | 15m | 一般 | |||
Better than it looks, but has some loose blocks to be careful of up high. Also more like 17 off the ground than 15
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20 | ★★ Footloose and Falling Free | 11m | ★★ 很好 | |||
I really like this one. Surprisingly takes a blue cam 3 camalot at the top.
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19 | ★★ Magical Mystery Tour | 34m | ★ 好 | |||
Take some small wires
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21 | ★ Half-dazed and Patched Pants | 18m | 一般 | |||
I remember having a wobbler above the bolt on this!
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22 20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★ 好 | |||
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s
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19 | ★ Bay Play | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
Hard and the gear strenuous to place. Good climbing but some loose bits.
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21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away | 35m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Love this one.
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23 23 X | ★★ Ockerphillia - with Robbie McKillop | 23m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Rapped down and looked at the gear first. IIRC there's nothing to the crux and not much after it but I got about 4 bits on the crux that I thought would hold a slump.
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23 | ★★ Chemical Adrenalin | 24m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Found this hard, maybe 24?
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
21 | ★★ Oppenheimer's Monster | 25m, 2 | 一般 | |||
It's been a long time but I remember being a bit put off by the rock quality, and hence the gear that's in it.
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20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
My fave at Frog
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15 | ★★ Devil's Wart | 27m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Hollow corner at the top is a bit offputting
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23 | ★ Baby Staysharp | 7m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
My first 23 flash
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18 | ★ Hello Sailor | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
This is surprisingly good. No real offwidthing required.
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17 | Genghis Khan | 20m | 不值一提 | |||
I only just got up this! I did it by chimneying which was exhausting, maybe there is a better way. (Wendy did it much better) There really is no gear till half height, and some poor rock, and it's filthy... get on it.
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23 | ★ Go-between | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
I thought this was really nice, and I think the gear would be better these days with micro cams. Could be 22.
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
A bit graunchy but good.
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22 | ★★ Out on a Limb | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.
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22 21 | ★ Run With the Pack | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.
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23 | ★★ The Guns of Navaronne | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
Good but the hard bit is short if you start up Odin like we did.
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22 | ★★ Decade | 30m | 一般 | |||
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.
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17 | ★ If | 30m | 不值一提 | |||
Not that great, and neither is the gear when it matters
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21 20 | ★★★ Short Order | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
I find this to be solid 21. Great climbing, though feels insecure all the way. Every time I do it I remember that Malcolm soloed it. Gawd.
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17 | ★★★ Smoked Banana | 40m | ★ 好 | |||
13 12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | 不值一提 | |||
Quite horrible, consists of stacked blocks which contain the gear...
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18 | Midnight Express - with Wendy Eden | 23m | 一般 | |||
Not too hard, and not as bad as it looks. Some loose rock but no real offwidthing, you can head onto the R wall at the top
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17 | ★ Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two - with Wendy Eden | 25m | 一般 | |||
This seemed quite easy for 19... on second. There is a fair bit of loose rock but not awful. Climbing is ok.
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14 | ★★ Faki | 13m | ★ 好 | |||
22 | ★ Satsang | 5m, 1 | 一般 | |||
22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home | 26m | ★★ 很好 | |||
18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | 一般 | |||
23 | ★★ Day of the Jackal | 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
I had a great experience on this.. a bit scared, at my limit, but got up it. I thought it was great but YMMV
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20 19 | ★★★ Thor | 30m | 不值一提 | |||
I thought this was horrible. The first half is ok but the top is just a jigsaw of loose blocks.
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20 | ★★★ Odin | 30m | 一般 | |||
I remember hating this before I could jam!
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星期五 29th 7月 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Famous Cosmetics | 40m | ★ 好 | |||
I found the crux really desperate. The rest is good but shame about the ledges
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17 | ★ Phatang | 40m | 不值一提 | |||
Not great. Lots of ledges to hit and not the best rock
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24 | ★★★ Impulse | 18m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
My first 24 flash, in about 89
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17 | ★ Liquid Laughter Layback | 38m | ★ 好 | |||
I remember the V groove being desperate from 88... did it again last year and it was still desperate!
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18 | ★★ Borderline 29 | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Good for a few moves but worryingly hollow
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21 | ★ Plummeting Pineapple (Plummeting Pinapple) | 35m | 一般 | |||
Good for a bit at the start then a bit of a ramble. There are better routes.
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21 | ★ Bongos and Beached Whales | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
Fun for a few moves
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