Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
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星期四 12th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
26 | ★★ Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - with Kieran Lawton | 30m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.
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15 | ★ Rush Hour - with Natasha | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
星期四 12th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Ministry Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Big Brother Variant Finish | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
24 | ★★ Big Brother Direct Finish | 20m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
18 | Lies - with Wendy Eden | 25m | 不值一提 | |||
I didn't think much of this - not great rock and not great climbing - but it does get you to the chains above Big Brother...
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星期四 12th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall | ||||||
13 | Rock Soff | 58m | ★ 好 | |||
16 | ★★ Menage a Trois - with Bec Pirtzl | 23m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great all the way.
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15 | ★ Hand Job | 23m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Gear is ok if you look. Interesting.
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星期四 12th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Oat Energy - with Kate Finnerty, Callum Dougal | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great - very sustained in first 2/3
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星期四 12th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
21 | Artifact RHV | 10m | 一般 | |||
Did this thinking it was a new route... damn you Hoskins!
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20 | ★ Social Darwinism Direct Finish | 15m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
13 | ★ Spider | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★ Sound Chaser | 30m | 一般 | |||
18 | ★ Wurlitzer | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
20 | ★ Warped | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Finished up Wurlitzer which is the obvious way to go and quite a good route. I remember the start not being that well protected
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21 20 | ★★ Wasp | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
There's an 18ish move to get started which is not well protected, then the corner has a tricky section and the top is hard to get right and easy to get so, so pumped. Harder than most 21s.
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21 | ★ Mother's Son | 45m | ★ 好 | |||
21 | ★ Sister Sol | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★★ Voodoo | 65m | ★ 好 | |||
Make sure to do the top pitch sometime, it's so steep for 18! Take big cams for it I think.
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20 21 | ★★ Aussie Logic - with Cate Webb | 23m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Distinctly easier if you are tall. Nice climbing. I wander R of the upper bolt too. Needs brackets.
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21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | ★ 好 | |||
A great looking line but the climbing's a bit graunchy - laybacking up a slab for the crux. The rest is pretty good, but Wasp is better - and harder!
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星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
19 19 R | ★ Amazing Lace | 23m | 一般 | |||
18 | A Lusty Sequel | 45m | 一般 | |||
17 | Ghostdrivers | 25m | 不值一提 | |||
Not awful, but wouldn't do it again. Was trying to do Aussie Drivers or the thing with the bolt R of Hot Coq
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星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave | ||||||
21 | Eponymous | 15m | 不值一提 | |||
星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Pan Grove | ||||||
16 | ★ Celeste | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
24 | ★ Warmonger | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
24 | Sausagemonger | 15m | 一般 | |||
21 | ★ Saturation Point - with Kate Finnerty | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
24 | ★ Dynamic | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
24 | ★ Kor | 10m | 一般 | |||
Not bad on TR, really hard to place the gear on lead. Greasy.
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16 | The Hun | 13m | 一般 | |||
14 13 | ★ Cunrack | 16m | 一般 | |||
More than it looks!
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25 | ★★ The Undertaker | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
Oh so greasy! I find this super hard, the climbing's good but so slick. At least you're unlikely to hurt your fingers...
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22 | ★ Siva | 12m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
A few good moves
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17 | ★★ Swinging | 20m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Seem to do it differently every time. Always engaging
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11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Polished, traversing crux - not the best 11 around to introduce people to climbing
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22 | Acrobat | 20m | 一般 | |||
25 | ★★ The Low Down - with Ken | 25m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
11 | ★★ The Dribble | 120m | ★ 好 | |||
14 | ★ Shaggy's Route | 110m | ★ 好 | |||
21 | ★★ Broken Song - with Callum Dougal | 40m | ★ 好 | |||
In one pitch. Good, very thin at end.
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19 | ★ Greasy Burritos - with Wendy Eden | 28m | ★ 好 | |||
Good, not that hard for 19, worth a star
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10 | ★★★ Syrinx - with Natasha | 170m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
18 18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A long runout to the bolt, serious.
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17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Start is hard and balancy, then it's runout but easy, then reasonably protected the rest of the way
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星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Scorpion | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
The climbing is good, not as offwidthy as it appears, but the position is really great. Worrying block/s at the start
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20 | ★★ Goodbye To All That - with kieran lawton | 35m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A bouldery start, then it's a bit uninspiring crossing Scorpion, but the top bit is excellent
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20 | ★★★ Quo Vadis | 33m, 1 | 一般 | |||
I don't get why people rave about this. The climbing is poor. The position is great but the second pitch of Kama Sutra is way better
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11 | ★★★ Blockbuster - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
Good, but does have a large worrying block
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星期三 11th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
25 | ★ Imagination LHF | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
I think Chrispy led this by accident - it's a very bold lead, not sure if the gear would keep you off the ground. Impressive!
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22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Gear on the top corner all feels a little iffy. Tiny cams help. Friends said they saw Peter Croft solo up and down this, and that it actually looked easier coming down.
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17 | ★ Scorpion Direct Start | 14m | 一般 | |||
Just odd. Easy some days and hard others
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12 15 | Abdul - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
Decent access to blockbuster
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星期二 10th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Denim Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Denim - with Brendan Emmerson | 45m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.
I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.??? |
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星期二 10th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shalimar | 31m | 一般 | |||
Unprotected bouldery start which is the crux, then wanders L and R with average gear and average rock - nice position though.
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23 | Nostalgia | 20m, 1 | 不值一提 | |||
Rusty bolt, fragile rock, dodgy gear, don't bother.
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24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.
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星期二 10th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
23 | Poppies pitch 3 | 30m | 一般 | |||
22 | ★★ Wall Street | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Pumpy placing the gear... and doing the finish. Steeper than it looks
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12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★ 好 | |||
Not three stars! Good but not great.
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17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great apart from the hollow blocks. My favourite of the Bard buttress routes
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21 19 | ★ Poppies | 70m | 不值一提 | |||
Tried to do this but it's loose and so contrived it's hard to work out where it goes - let alone where it gets a star from
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18 | ★★★ Eurydice | 65m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A bit greasy but good.
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19 | ★★ The Desired | 60m | ★ 好 | |||
Tough from what I remember
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20 | Disguise the Limit - with Ben Pearse | 20m | 一般 | |||
星期二 10th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Sheckle - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m | 一般 | |||
Not the greatest rock/gear/climbing but worth doing once.
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22 | ★ Clap for Kiwis - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.
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15 18 | ★ Jeckle | 18m | 一般 | |||
Bit of a shock even if you're expecting 15. I could easily believe 18 for the start. Lookout.
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13 13 R | ★★ Rush of Blood | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
Yep not much gear up top
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15 | ★★ Mr Hyde | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Very interesting
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17 | ★ Crack Attack | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Harder than it looks!
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21 21 R | ★★ Wogs at the Piles | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.
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18 17 | ★ The Creesed Palm - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 14m | ★ 好 | |||
Adam did a more direct start traversing below the corner and up. Good climbing apart from a few loose blocks.
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17 | Double Decker - with Wendy Eden, adam demmert | 13m | 一般 | |||
OK face climbing, a tad loose feeling.
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20 | ★ Fantoochi | 13m | ★ 好 | |||
星期四 5th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
20 19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Wow - feels like 23
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16 15 | ★ Lady Dihedral | 78m | ★ 好 | |||
Yes! Do this instead of the original Lamplighter finish - it's way better.
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25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.
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23 | ★ Riot or Wrong | 9m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Tried to lead it when the bolt was gone - fiddly gear. Got pumped and tr'd it.
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29 | ★★★ Masada - with Rob McLeod | 28m, 1 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
I really like this one. Great line, great climbing, great history. 4 days.
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星期四 5th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
16 | ★ Lobboff | 10m | 一般 | |||
20 20 R | ★ Doobie | 8m | 一般 | |||
22 | ★ Fear of Flying | 12m | 不值一提 | |||
25 | ★ Sonic Boom | 12m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
Remarkably good!
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22 21 R | ★★ Dramp | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Super greasy committing layback around the roof.. gets a star just for the insecurity.
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24 | ★ Cumelittle | 15m, 2 | 不值一提 | |||
Not sure why people bother with this. If you're going to do one 24 at Arapiles, make sure it's not this one. Sonic Boom is good! Do Sonic Boom instead! Go for a walk! Read an improving book! Phone your Mother!
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14 | ★ Minimus | 12m | ||||
10 | ★ Camelot | 13m | ||||
17 | ★ Maximus | 13m | ||||
18 | ★ Age of Raisins | 11m | ||||
星期四 5th 11月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★ Pulpy Kidney - with Rob Oliver | 15m, 2 | 一般 | |||
Has new bolts, yay.
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15 | ★★ Downward Bound | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
Good. You can go over the back to the chains of PK, or scramble off maybe. The direct looks good but doesn't really come together as a route.
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14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great climbing, just a bit greasy
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18 | ★ Preying | 37m | ★ 好 | |||
Top is quite good
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19 | ★ Mandible | 41m | 一般 | |||
OK, technical traverse
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26 | ★★★ Ergonomics | 20m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Just as well Dave got to this first. I was going to do it on the RP placements. Wouldn't have been so popular!
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25 | ★★ Strolling Right Hand Variant | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
This one's quite good. Placements is better though.
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24 | ★★ Strolling - with stuart williams | 25m, 1 | 不值一提 | |||
I think this is 24 and no stars - wandery, hard greasy crux then easy. Just a bit dumb.
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