Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期四 2nd 6月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
13 |
★ Sundowner
![]() | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 |
★ Cream Between
![]() | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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星期六 28th 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★ Walking Amok
![]() | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期一 23rd 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
21 |
★ Meekly Unconcerned
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!
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星期六 21st 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 22 |
★★ Running Amok
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!
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星期三 18th 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
24 23 |
★ Walking Simulator
![]() | 12m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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17 16 |
★ Guider not a climber
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.
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星期天 15th 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 |
★★ Coeur de Lion
![]() | 43m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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星期六 14th 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 |
Under Control
![]() | 30m | 一般 | |||
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier
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星期天 1st 5月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
17 |
Armchair critic
![]() | 15m | 一般 | |||
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.
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21 |
★ Ice is Nice
![]() | 12m | 一般 | |||
Felt hard even on tr.
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星期天 10th 4月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 |
★ No Space for Boxes
![]() | 30m | 一般 | |||
星期六 9th 4月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
20 |
★ Stillborn
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.
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星期六 9th 4月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
17 |
Lou's Not 19 (Anymore)
![]() | 4m | 不值一提 | |||
20 |
Greg Will be Pleased
![]() | 9m | 不值一提 | |||
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.
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22 |
Greg will be Amused
![]() | 10m, 2 | 一般 | |||
22 |
★ Lou Direct
![]() | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
Probably better than the original
|
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24 |
★ Man on the Land
![]() | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.
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星期天 3rd 4月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
23 |
Procrastinationable
![]() | 26m | ★ 好 | |||
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.
|
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星期六 26th 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
8 |
★ Cold Episode of Influenza
![]() | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
Nice!
|
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15 |
★ I am a Banana Expert
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
|
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18 |
Great Sleeping Weather
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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17 |
Tallness is something Other People Suffer From
![]() | 25m, 2 | 一般 | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
|
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17 17 R |
★ The Crumpet Didn't Front
![]() | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.
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星期三 23rd 3月 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 18 |
★ Point Perpetrator
![]() | 17m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.
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22 21 |
★ Minced Beef Eaters
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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20 21 |
★ Lake Thelma
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
星期三 23rd 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
17 |
Ed's Super Sarnie
![]() | 15m | 一般 | |||
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.
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星期天 20th 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
17 |
★★ The Nile
![]() | 110m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great climbing on the middle pitch.
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星期天 20th 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
20 |
★ The Shiralee Direct
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.
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14 |
Dingbats
![]() | 50m | 糟糕 | |||
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.
|
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17 |
Banshee
![]() | 50m | 不值一提 | |||
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star
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星期六 19th 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 |
★★ Grand Design
![]() | 54m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.
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星期三 16th 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 |
★ The Serpent's Venom
![]() | 60m | ★ 好 | |||
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup
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星期天 13th 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 |
★ Is It About A Bicycle?
![]() | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 |
Jack-a-Dandy
![]() | 12m | 一般 | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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星期六 12th 3月 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
18 |
★ Hey Youse
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.
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19 |
★ Waterfall Bogans
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
Really nice incut holds.
|
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23 |
★★ Pain Criminals Link-up
![]() | 18m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds
|
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19 |
★★ Pains Ford
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied
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20 |
★★ Try Land
![]() | 17m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
21 |
★ Brush with Authority
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that
|
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19 18 |
★ Glue Mountains
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ 好 | |||
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day
|
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17 18 |
★ Gaybarry
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.
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星期四 3rd 3月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 |
★ Eye Spy
![]() | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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星期四 4th 2月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
17 |
A Night to Remember
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.
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星期一 18th 1月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 |
Puggle Burrow
![]() | 26m | 一般 | |||
Maybe easier if you're tall?
|
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20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
|
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23 |
★★ Misunderestimated
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!
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星期天 17th 1月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 |
★★ No Turning Back
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
|
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22 |
★ Totally Foxed!
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
|
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19 |
Unemploid
![]() | 15m | 不值一提 | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
|
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星期天 17th 1月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
18 19 |
Frontispiece
![]() | 30m | 不值一提 | |||
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back
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星期天 10th 1月 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 |
Pritchard's Neuralgia
![]() | 26m | ★ 好 | |||
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.
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12 |
★ Eat Your Greens
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!
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星期天 3rd 1月 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | ||||||
22 |
★ Cocky Calamity
![]() | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
|
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18 |
★★ Skirt Alert
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging
|
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19 |
★ Udder Shudder
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
18 |
★ Spare Rib
![]() | 20m | 一般 | |||
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.
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星期天 3rd 1月 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Town Cliffs The Radiator | ||||||
19 |
★★ Hot
![]() | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
The route to do, good climbing and position.
|
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22 |
★ Feel the Heat
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
|
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19 |
The Only Way is Up
![]() | 26m | 一般 | |||
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.
|
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14 |
Dirty Work
![]() | 25m | 一般 | |||
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.
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星期天 3rd 1月 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ Checkpoint Charlie
![]() | 25m, 5 | 一般 | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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22 21 |
★ Sacred Ground
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
|
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22 |
★★ Sprung
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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星期天 3rd 1月 2016 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
17 |
★★ Gerontian
![]() | 46m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.
|
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24 |
The Price You Pay Direct
![]() | 20m | 一般 | |||
18 |
★★ Island Cruise
![]() | 30m | 一般 | |||
17 |
★★ Odysseus
![]() | 84m | 一般 | |||
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.
|
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12 |
★★ Scarab
![]() | 59m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
Wandery but has some good bits
|
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16 |
★★ The Frog
![]() | 45m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016
|
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19 |
Crash Dive
![]() | 25m | 不值一提 | |||
Poor rock
|
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21 |
★★★ Pathos
![]() | 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
20 |
★★ Blanketty Blank
![]() | 28m | 一般 | |||
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?
|
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24 25 |
★★ Bliss
![]() | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
25 |
★★ Ostler
![]() | 60m | ★ 好 | |||
Thin and hard
|
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21 20 |
★★★ Blimp
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
22 |
★★ Lunging for Melons
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Very odd!
|
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25 |
★★ Manic Depressive
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
25 24 |
Fistful of Steel
![]() | 15m | 一般 | |||
27 |
★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain)
![]() | 12m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.
|
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星期天 13th 12月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 |
★ Pet Parsley
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★ 好 | |||
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile
|
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星期六 12th 12月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
13 |
Blue Toes
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
|
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13 15 |
★ Greenfingers
![]() | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
|
||||||
18 |
★ Brown Thumb
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
|
||||||
19 |
★ I Am Not A Pork Chop
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.
|
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星期六 5th 12月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
14 |
Pitchfork
![]() | 40m | 一般 | |||
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.
|
||||||
15 |
★ A Weed in the Garden
![]() | 26m | ★ 好 | |||
Good climbing all the way. Fun.
|
||||||
16 |
★ Babylon
![]() | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.
|
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16 |
★ John Thomas
![]() | 30m | 一般 | |||
Pretty hard and not very protected start. Not as good as the others.
|
||||||
15 14 |
★ Wild Mountain Thyme
![]() | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
Worth a star - worthwhile
|
||||||
18 |
★ Access
![]() | 30m | ★ 好 | |||
星期五 4th 12月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★ 很好 | |||
I find the start greasy and horrible - and not that well protected. I much prefer the LH start - which is not well protected, but not greasy or horrible.
|
||||||
10 10 R |
★★★ Eskimo Nell LH start
![]() | 110m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
21 |
Live Footage
![]() | 35m | 不值一提 | |||
Looks good but isn't, Scarecrow is the route to do.
|
||||||
星期四 3rd 12月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | ||||||
21 |
★★ Parsley
![]() | 12m | ★★ 很好 | |||
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.
|
||||||
21 |
★ Sage
![]() | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.
|
||||||
18 |
★ Rosemary
![]() | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
Good fun, plenty of gear.
|
||||||
星期四 3rd 12月 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 |
No Place for Foxes
![]() | 30m | 一般 |