North-West Wall and Environs, Trad climbing

Map

Seasonality

Description

Home of some of the "shorter" routes, this area is a good option if you only have half a day. It's an even better option if new routing is your thing. La Grande Pump cave is the best known in the area with its eponymous route listed as one of Tasmania's definitive 21's, but the cliffline follows the hill all the way down to Lake Gwendolen. The cliffs broadly face west and attract afternoon sun.

Access issues inherited from Frenchmans Cap Area

It's a 25km hike from the Lyell Highway.

Approach

Follow the main summit path behind Tahune hut up to the obvious, sharp saddle ("the North Col"). From here, follow the path to Irenabyss for a few metres before traversing the cliffline to your left.

Descent notes

Numerous gullies exist to allow for reversing off routes, although you can always continue to the top and follow the tourist track back to the saddle

Ethic inherited from Frenchmans Cap

Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.

Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:

• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.