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Flora and Fauna: Bird nest warning - October 2023

During spring/early summer you may need to avoid climbs to the right of Warped Spasm and left of (inclusive of) Sisters of Mercy due to nesting birds.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago

description

Fantastic sustained climbing up the centre of the Pocketed Wall. The finish seeps after a good rainfall, but not as badly as Motley Crue or Terminal Insomnia. Start 3m left of Sisters Of Mercy. There's a single ring for your belayer to tie into (plus a carrot if you brought a bolt plate). Rebolted 2023

Route history

21 Nov 1992First ascent: Peter Stebbins

Warnings

13 Oct 2023 Flora and Fauna: Birds nesting Resolved
30 Dec 2023 Warning Flora and Fauna: Bird nest warning - October 2023

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.89659, 142.38886

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

24 Assigned grade
23 The North Grampians Update
24(S) Grampians Selected Climbs
24 [23 - 24] grAId

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 71 from 57 ratings.

Difficulty - 24

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

24

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 12
Flash 6
Red point 16
Tick 5
Attempt 12

Comment keywords

perfect great fantastic awesome fun super brilliant nice cool satisfying good reachy jugs pockets rest crimpy dodgy powerful sweat tough sustained hard pumped desperate crux fall runout

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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