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The Dungeon

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 20

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

Seasonality

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Description

A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms.

This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal.

The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues

It is unknown why the Dungeon is not permitted, given it's relative obscurity, grey vertical rock and proximity to many Designated crags.

© (nmonteith)

Approach

Option 1 - scramble in: walk out from 'Run Rabbit Run' for 50m; this will take you to the top of the far left end (ie climber's left) of the Dungeon. Scramble down short 3m high wall with assistance from fixed rope. Bloody strenuous, but only for a few metres!

Option 2 - walk in from VD Land: it is quite easy to walk in (5-10 minutes); pick up the rough track from where it drops down from opposite Terminal Insomnia. Obviously this is quite a big loop to take from the carpark, but it's handy to know about if you're already at VD Land.

Option 3 - walk in direct ie from the Hollow Mountain Car Park (not recommended): although it is also possible to take a direct route in to the cliff (by staying low and avoiding the climb up towards Cut Lunch Walls), there is no track and is not recommended.

Option 4 (not recommended) - rap in: walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff to bolted anchor. Alternatively tie off a natural anchor.

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts 50m left of the dungeon. Near the access gully. Up very nice layback flakes to anchor.

Set: toby pola

Squeezed in amoungst a grotty chimney cleft.

Start: On left end of wall inside the chimney and 5m left of 'Irritant Pollens'. 'Access' via double bolts from above or scramble down cleft from the right (south).

FA: John Miller & Mark Sullivan, 1992

Big left facing corner at far left end of the wall with undercut roof down low. When the corner blanks out go right across the slab to finish on the terrace (chain).

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

Watch the top out! A super route on gritty edges. To start, scramble up to the double fixed hangers, right of 'Curse of the Bilby'.

Your rope might get chewed to shreds when you lower off if you don't extend the anchor.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2009

Climb to ledge. Move left to imposing black wall. Traverse left on knob style holds. Then up menacing headwall with just enough holds. Upgraded to reflect difficulty.

The central orange streak. Great moves. Was once a rap-in-climb-out affair, but it is now equipped to be started from ground level.

Can be approached from above via rap chains which are 30m north of 'Irritant Pollens' and below large boulder with tiny cave on south side.

FA: Daniel Brooks & Matthew Brooks, 1992

TG direct finish. Might be 28

Set: adam demmert

FFA: Kent Paterson, 2016

Start: Second route from the right side. Easily up jugs to ledge. Up black bulges and cross orange streak with cool moves for 4 bolts then traverse left to welcome rest jug. reach left to clip last bolt on 'Civil War' and finish up it.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

Rising pocketed traverse on lower wall.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Fri 28 Apr
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