A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms.
This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal.
The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.
© (nmonteith)Option 1 - scramble in: walk out from 'Run Rabbit Run' for 50m; this will take you to the top of the far left end (ie climber's left) of the Dungeon. Scramble down short 3m high wall with assistance from fixed rope. Bloody strenuous, but only for a few metres!
Option 2 - walk in from VD Land: it is quite easy to walk in (5-10 minutes); pick up the rough track from where it drops down from opposite Terminal Insomnia. Obviously this is quite a big loop to take from the carpark, but it's handy to know about if you're already at VD Land.
Option 3 - walk in direct ie from the Hollow Mountain Car Park (not recommended): although it is also possible to take a direct route in to the cliff (by staying low and avoiding the climb up towards Cut Lunch Walls), there is no track and is not recommended.
Option 4 (not recommended) - rap in: walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff to bolted anchor. Alternatively tie off a natural anchor.
© (nmonteith)Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.
Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Auteur·e·s: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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