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1 21 33m
2 9m
3 21 40m
4 25m

description

Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.

Start: Beautiful corner just right of 'Tourist Buttress'. Clear initial A.

  1. 33m (21) Corner which gets progressively harder. After the corner, step right around the overhang to the deep V-groove which forces you to play twister (you can either escape left to holds on the arete, or continue up groove), to bolt anchor at ledge.

  2. 9m (-) Diagonally up left and around arete to small stance.

  3. 40m (21) Follow twin thin cracks up the front of the buttress. Protection is OK but not brilliant. This pitch finishes at a bolt belay (60m abseil to the ground), below the recent rockfall.

  4. 35m (-) Easily up lefthand line or do 'Scarface' (20) which is just to left.

© (jgoding)

Route history

Feb 1969First ascent: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst (var)

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -37.18543, 142.49839

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21,,21, Assigned grade
21 South Eastern Grampians
21 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
21 Grampians Selected Climbs
22 [21 - 22] + grAId

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 92 from 29 ratings.

Difficulty - 21

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

21

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 11
Flash 1
Red point 3
Tick 7
Attempt 3
Target 3

Comment keywords

bail crack rest epic tough crux amazing good awesome pleasant perfect great super classic exposed

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Wed 26 Apr
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