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Description
A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.
Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.
All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.
Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains
Be sensible.
Approach
<5 min
At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park in the few parking spots on the right along this road as unfortunately the old parking spot has now become a garden, probably related to the opposite house now being finished
Descent notes
From the carpark across the road from the new house, find and follow the faint trail (basically opposite the house front deck) heading straight down through the bush, its about a 60 sec walk down (trail will intersect another trail heading left, but continue down toward the creek.) Do NOT cross the creek. Turn left following the emerging cliffline around, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery. About 2 min walk in all up.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
History
This spot was developed by Various local climbers back in the mid/late nineties. This I believe include Ed Thornhill Ben Pearce, Dave Browning, Saxon Johns and Garth Miller. With the help of a few other friends. From memory this area was said to of had a double digit traverse under the cave fa'd by Garth Miller. Dave Browning also did a dyno problem on the suspended rock that's just before the entrance thought to be v8 or 9. And I think either Ed or Ben did the prosthesis problem. stay tuned
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
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Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Toby Roediger on ★ Necrosis V2 - necrosis
Toby Roediger on ★★ Photocoagulator V4 - photocogulator
Jason Nguyen on ★ Necrosis V2 - Necrosis
Deleted climber 218179737 on ★ Go Go Gadget V2 - Go Go Gadget
Wed 10 May
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