Routes in Asia

A short but juggy route. Watch out for bees in the monster jugs. Continue over the top for decent. No anchor and little available pro.

The is a classic route to the top of No More Monks Rock. Start by climbing up the left-facing corner, continue up the slab to the top, you are sure to get onlookers and honks from passing traffic on route 6. No anchors and virtually nothing in the way of placement. Eventually this route will be bolted. - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Straight up the face of the No More Monks rock. A long sustained difficult climb. (In Khmer this climb name means "no more monk".) - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Note: This may now be a sport route]

Start just to the right of "Chicken in the kitchen" and stay right of the line with bolts.Top rope this climb until it's bolted from the "chicken in the kitchen" anchor. (Lots of rope drag, you'll get a workout.) - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

[The following is out of date] Start next to the small wooden house and tree. The crux of this climb is surely the start. Follow the 6 bolts to the anchor.

[Ethic warning, locals may not approve] This scramble provides access to the anchors of "Chicken in the Kitchen" and "Aht Lok". Enter the cave next to the home and start of "Chicken in the kitchen" climbing up and left to the top of the rock. The locals don't like us using this access because theuy believe that we disturb the spirits that live in the cave. If you do, however, use this access watch out for bees, and I suppose, spirits as well. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Start directly below the tree. Either continue to the top of the rock or traverse left to the wide ledge. This climb provides safe access to the "Short but Sweet" and "Straight-up" anchors.

Truly short and bitter sweet climb that begins atop an old concrete slab from the old Pagoda.[Update: there is now a shrine on the slab, probably best to avoid climbing above it.] Accessing the anchors is a bit dicey but possible from the top of the rock. A better option is climbing Warm-Up and taversing left to the wide ledge.

A short beginners route. Climb the slab to the broad ledge. For access to the anchors, follow the suggestions for "Short but Sweet".

This route is somewhat covered in vines, but is a good route on this face of Broken Pot Rock. No anchors or bolts. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Start just to the right of the line of bolts for Martha's Vineyard. Continue stragiht up from there following the light coloured rock. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

So called, because this route used to be covered in vines. Follow the line of 5 bolts to the anchor. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

A classic 5.10! The line is pretty self explanatory, follow the 7 bolts to the anchor. You may just want to pull the rope and repeat this route once you did it the first time. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

The name literally means "good day" or "greetings" and named this because this climb is usually one of the first routes climbed when visiting the area for the first time. Climb the slab following the 3 drawn-out bolts to the anchor (23m) gradually traversing right. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Start on or near the left corner of the slab. Watch out for loose rock on this long slab climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Name means "rice + pork", route name originally spelt "Buy-Siak-J-Rok"] [Update: the route has been bolted, unsure about bolt location or number]

A popular route for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. Climb following the 6 bolts and gradually traversing left. Leave a directional on the 3rd or 4th bolt for safe top-roping. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia

Follow the old bolts (without hangers) straight up to the "Morning Glory" anchor. Top rope this route from "Morning Glory" anchors. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

A tight start between the two rocks. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained difficulty makes this one a must climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Located behind the tree. Anchor from the top Named "Rob's Rat Hole" because a small rat calls the hole midway up the climb it's home. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

A short climb with a difficult to reach anchor at the top. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

This anchor was placed here to teach beginners rapelling and proper rock climbing technique. It's good for practice if you have some beginners along. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Anchors on top of the rock for setting anchors, you may use it to set "Morning Glory" "Crimper" and "សួស្តី" all of which have exposed and/or hard to reach anchors. This anchor is NOT suitable for climbing or rappelling.

At the shorter end of the overhanging rock over the road there’s a nice boulder route Seyha did years ago. But now there’s a tin roof shack next to it so dangerous top out.

Unknown bolted route up the extremely overhung rock. Not sure if it has ever been ascended.

To the far left of Duvel Sector there is a grade 4-5 scramble up to a series of cables bolted into the rock. Follow the cables all the way around the cliff top to the Evil Eyes sector, ending at Sunset Boulevard. There are at least 3 accesible anchor points to rappel down from, or return the way you came.

Inside the cave, closest climb to the wooden stairs. Top anchors can be seen easily from the ground.

Maybe a meter or so to the right of Daelim Dash. April, June, and Victorious all start pretty much in the same spot. Stay on the face to the left of the start. Top anchors clear. Possible off width fun if you stray off to the right into the narrow cave.

Similar start spot to April and Victorious. June is a less clear climb. Maybe it goes inside the narrow off width cave, maybe it doesn't. More beta required. Top anchors also unclear. Please add info if you have it.

Similar start point to April and June, same top anchors as Upgrade. Climb the long spine going straight up to anchors. There is a small perch at the top where you can sit to set acnhors

Where the path in the cave turns left coming from the wooden stairs there is a small tower of rock. Victorius climbs up the left spine of it, Upgrade climbs up the face of it. Dusty slopers abound. Crux between last bolt and top anchors, the face begins to overhung just slightly. (Ground fall potential heading up to second bolt)

Large offwidth (a very thin person could fit in at the bottom) in a dihedral position, with a flat slightly overhanging wall on the left. The face to the right is vertical until halfway up the climb where there is a foot sized ledge and the left wall breaks back from overhung to slab and the offwidth widens out to a chimney to a very nice sloped ledge one body height from the top. Its a sort of layback/offwidth body jamming/face crimps/chimney. Lot's of ways to approach this one.

Start in the small grass patch next to the owl barn, just south of the big white slab. There are two cave systems, the one on the right is firefly, the one on the left is dragonfly. Offwidth or layback most of the route. Low crux getting over the entrance to the firefly cave.

Start in the hand crack to the right of firefly. Crack curves left halfway up to join firefly for the offwidth finish. No known attempts yet.

Honestly walking around would be a lot easier, but it's a fun little adventure to chimney straight up instead. Access chimney from the top of the white slab. There are big boulders wedged in space at intervals up the chimney which is what makes it comfortable to do without a rope.

Short hand crack. 7 meters at most, but straight splitter. Haven't seen it up close yet, only from the top of Firefly.

Same as Making it Work, but don’t avoid the crux like a sissy.

Belay from the little slab at the base of the cliff, climb is characterized by pockets made from the sandstone layers. At the 4th clip there’s a large cave to the left, avoid it as some of the hermits live in there at times. Slightly run out between clips 3-4 because of the layers. Can cheat the crux by following the crack up to the right and traversing back over along the top to the anchors.

To the right of the lead climb there are top anchors on the face. Not super easy to access fro the top, but offers clear path for top rope not to rub too much. At the bottom there’s a gradually steepening slab covered in green slippery moss up to the first ledge. Pretty straightforward from there. Lead climb bolting was abandoned due to the hollow quality of the rock.

Start with hands on the face, feet under the overhang. Crimp up to the slopey pockets. In the deep pocket be prepared to have 1000 ants on you within seconds, can switch grip in the ant pocket to undercling. Top out on big jug in between the two anchor bolts.

Climb to the southern anchor. Really green and slippery on account of the water trickle here that created a perfect cleft in the top of the rock, the downspout.

On the corner of the rock, furthest to the south.

Next to the layback crack there is a little roof. Should be a climb here.

A nice layback crack almost the length of the route. Hits a teeny tiny roof one meter below the anchors.

Under the big tree there is an obvious yellow crack, there are anchors but tying to the big branch will save your rope a lot of friction. Hand shredding project on explosive sandstone. We’ve blown off more holds than there are on the route. The crux is early, best guess is to reach deep in the yellow coloured crack for a slopey side grip. Recommend listening to tunes by Big Wreck to bring the psyche.

Start in front of the big red barked tree. (For top rope recommend anchoring in the tree, actually, save your rope a lot of trouble). Big pocket on the right gets you of the ground, big pocket above your head gets you to the first bolt. Straight forward slopey stuff from there. Very bouldery route.