Routes in Japan

Hana is Japanese for nose.

The obvious chimney contains some in situ protection.

Eliminate.

Eliminate.

An ok route.

Can be lead using the bolts left and right of the line. Eliminate.

Another contrived eliminate line.

Can be lead either on trad gear or clipping the bolts to the right.

Break out right from Chūou.

Climb over the overhang low on the wall and up the arête to finish.

A short route on the slabby face. 3 bolts and lower off from the in-situ tat on the tree at the top of the route. Stay alive by checking the condition of the tat before lowering off!! Hi is a deprecated word for Hinoki (檜) - Japanese cypress.

The slightly easier climb on the face to the right. Bolted lower-off. Hi is a deprecated word for Hinoki (檜) - Japanese cypress.

A decent romp up the left side of the slabby face. Avoid the left arête for a more fulfilling experience.

A decent route. The name means 'Milky Way'.

A step up from Ama no Kawa in terms of difficulty, but another decent route. It is named after the traditional Japanese 'tea pickers' song'.

Less frequented than the taller 5.12s to the right, but still a good route. The name means 'No name Gon-chan', or 'No name Gon', as Gon is a name used for many features in the local area.

Contains one spicy run-out near the top. Name means 'the virtue of humility'.

Described as a one-move wonder.

Finish at the two bolt belay below the capping roof of UV. Name means 'shelter from rain'.

Climb Ama Yodori to the two bolts at the bottom of the overhang. Power through the roof like a hero. Don't stop at the lip but press on right to the top of the crag.

The classic of the crag. A long outing that traverses rightwards underneath the big overhang. Don't stop at the lower-off on the lip, but continue on up the slab to the top. It is advisable to switch to the belay at the lip when lowering off as rope drag can make it difficult to recover the rope when lowering all the way to the ground from the top belay.

Start off as for Hokurakushimon, but head straight up through the roof where that route traverses off rightwards. Don't finish at the lip belay but continue on to the top belay.

Start as for Hokurakushimon, but traverse off rightwards early. Cross the line of Nishikigaura, pass the belay at the right end of the route and finish at the belay on the top right of the upper slab. Rethread the lip lower-off on the way down.

A crimpy start is followed by a direct finish through the capping roof. The first ascent of this route finished up Hokurakushimon instead of tacking the roof direct. Finish at the top of the crag, not the lip of the overhang.

Start as for Nishikigaura and finish as for Green Onion.

A hard start followed by sustained climbing up the face. Named after a Shino god.

Climb the left side of the arête. A variation climbs on the right hand side of the arête after the initial small roof at 5.10d. Name means 'papier-mâché tiger'.

On the face around the right hand side of the arête.

Name Translates as "Octopus"

Name Translates as "Jagged"

Name Translates as "Landlord"

Peasant

Name translates as "Leading Radish"

Name Translates as "Field"

Name Translates as "Wheat field"

Name Translates as "Its Overhanging"

大将

Japanese translates as "Once-in-a-lifetime chance"

Name translates as " Good Guy to go"

Name Translates as "Ai-chan do not cry"

Name translates as "Tami-chan is high"

Name translates as "Rough Love"

Name translates as "One of the So-called"

Name Translates as "Indian summer"