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Castle Rock

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Description

Castle Rock has become a busy tourist destination of late, after the instalment of a 'skywalk'. Unfortunately this new atrocity has rendered some of the good climbing once found here unclimbable. These routes include Mike Law's three star classic Vous (22). Furthermore, all of the belay bolts on top of the climbs have been removed. Now one has to use care and build anchors connected to the skywalk.

The climbing here is fantastic. It is steep and hard. Usually the climbs are technical, although there are a couple of off-width nightmares to be had. Care should be had when relying on some of the older carrots.

Access issues inherited from Porongurups

This is a national park and therefore a fee is expected to be paid depending on where you park. This is sign posted upon entry and is monitored by the ranger.

Approach

It is a 2.5km walk (uphill) to the crag.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Up arete right of first bolted ladder. Large cam required for crack, and RB's are rusty. Ringle FH for belay and descent. Not recomended

In the centre of the western wall

FFA: R. Muhlen-Schulte & S. Richardson, 1990

Start from ground and up arete 5m right and below Karma.

FFA: S. Richardson & R. Muhlen-Schulte, 1990

On western side of summit is a large rectangular ledge where the obvious arête of Karma can be spotted.

The obvious and spectacular arete. Technical face and slab climbing makes this an absolute Western Australian classic!

FFA: S. Richardson & D. Toulalan, 1992

The righthand off-width crack. Massive runout chimneying to offwidth. Needs big gear

FFA: M. Smith, 1981

This is a project. Up slabby face between two large cracks. Two bolts have been equipped with no hangers, and should not be used. Probably grade 27+

On the left side of lower terrace. Up large crack. Big gear required.

FFA: R. Skirrow, 1981

Below the end of the skywalk, up the arete. A project bolted by Logan Barber. I believe he might be happy for anyone to have a go, but best check with him first.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/castle-rock-f-a/

The arete on the south east corner with superb slab climbing. Has 4 very old carrots. Anchors cannot be reached after skywalk construction.

FA: M. Law, 1988

Four VERY old bolts.

Found downhill of summit on a boulder is a climb up a twin crack system

FA: D. Wagland & M. Whitham, 1985

The rightmost line

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Sun 7 May
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